Many gardeners prefer to grow fruit-bearing plants indoors. Today, not only lemon trees but also ornamental peppers are available as houseplants. They look impressive and are a great addition to a variety of dishes. While they're popularly known as "little fire peppers," there are actually dozens of species and varieties of domestic peppers.
The exotic appearance, pungent taste, and ease of care in the comfort of your own home have made indoor peppers a popular crop.
Description of indoor pepper and its types
The indoor pepper (Capsicum) is a striking member of the Solanaceae family. It thrives both in the open ground and in a potted container indoors. This perennial can live up to 5 years indoors. Its branched crown is covered with pointed, long, or ovate leaves, which range in color from light to dark green. Flowers are borne singly or in clusters. The petals are most often white. The color and shape of the pods vary by variety. Most varieties are characterized by abundant fruiting.
The most common is the shrubby variety, which can live on a windowsill or loggia for 5-6 years. Bush heights range from 15 to 45 cm. Popular varieties include Ogonyok, Nevesta, Queen of Spades, and Carmen.
Berry peppers are named for the flattened shape of their fruits, which resemble squash. The bushes grow up to 80 cm. Pubescent varieties are most often grown in open ground, but some (such as Rokoto) also produce fruit well in pots. The stems, leaves, and even the flowers of this pepper are covered with dense pubescence.
Among the variety, it is worth getting acquainted with the most common domestic peppers.
You may be interested in:Aladdin
This variety is one of the earliest ripening peppers and is known for its high yield. The bush grows approximately 40 cm in height. The plant produces elongated fruits that, as they ripen, turn from purple or off-white to a rich red. Aladdin tolerates low light better than other peppers, so it is often grown without supplemental lighting. Due to its strong aroma, the fruits are used as a spice for preserves.
Ogonyok
Ogonyok is the most popular indoor pepper. It is a mid-early variety, ripening 115-120 days after germination. The elongated pod is deep red and has smooth skin. This medium-sized plant produces fairly large fruits—approximately 45 g.
Nosegay
This pepper is one of the smallest varieties and can be grown even in a small room. It grows no more than 15 cm tall. The compact bush grows well in a container of about 1 liter. The fruits are very small, more reminiscent of berries than vegetables. Their color depends on the stage of ripening, as can be clearly seen in the photo: first green, whitish, orange, and then red. The pod has a medium spiciness.
Explosive Ember
The height of this branched bush does not exceed 35 cm. This variety is easy to maintain and grows well in containers of 1 liter or more. The leaves, branches, and stems are greenish-blue. The color of the above-ground parts depends on the light intensity. If the plant is grown in the shade, the color is predominantly blue, and in full sun, green. Mature pods have a rich purple hue.
Growing ornamental peppers in a pot and caring for them at home
Growing a crop in a pot is a simple task for experienced vegetable growers, but beginners should thoroughly familiarize themselves with the rules and specifics of care.
You may be interested in:Temperature and lighting for hot peppers
Like their garden relatives, indoor varieties prefer a warm microclimate, so during the growing season, they should be kept at a temperature of 25°C. In winter, this temperature should be slightly reduced to 15-18°C. Alternating night and day temperatures have a beneficial effect on the plant. When warmer weather arrives, it's recommended to move the pot to a balcony or loggia.
For full development and high yields, place the pot on a western, southwestern, or southern windowsill. This sun-loving plant requires good sunlight for up to four hours per day in spring and fall. On hot days, when the sun is particularly strong, it's best to shade the above-ground portion. If there's too little light, use artificial lighting with phytolamps.
Watering and humidity
Peppers are moisture-loving crops, so it's important to regularly monitor the soil and mist it to maintain the required humidity. For these applications, use room-temperature water. In spring and summer, water as the soil dries out, and mist at least twice a week.
As autumn approaches, reduce the frequency of watering, and in winter, keep it to a minimum. Peppers don't respond well to drought. Their leaves and fruits may not only wilt but also fall off. A prolonged lack of water can lead to death.
Pot and substrate
The pepper pot should be small. If the plant is transplanted from a common container, the container should hold no more than 100 ml. The pot must have drainage holes so that excess liquid can drain into the tray.
You can buy a ready-made soil mixture in the store, or you can make your own nutrient substrate:
- leaf humus – 2 parts;
- turf soil – 2 parts;
- sand – 1 part.
You can prepare the soil using ingredients readily available in any home: crushed rock, sand, fertile black soil, and general-purpose fertilizer. All ingredients are applied in layers. The first layer consists of crushed rock (drainage material), sand, and black soil. Fertilizer can be mixed with the soil or sprinkled between the sand and soil layers.
Diseases and pests
Like all houseplants, capsicum can become diseased or attacked by insects. Sometimes the plant is attacked by aphids and spider mites, but this is rare, as it contains substances that repel insects.
If pests do appear, crush a pepper pod and add water to it at a ratio of 1:10. Let the mixture sit for 48 hours, then add a small amount of grated soap and mix thoroughly. Spray the above-ground parts of the plant with the resulting solution until the pests disappear.
Diseases rarely affect ornamental peppers, but the following problems often occur:
- the absence of flowering indicates an excess of nitrogen in the fertilizer;
- If the leaves change color or turn pale, the plant is likely not getting enough light. For the same reason, the bush may shed its leaves.
Improper watering can cause root rot. To combat this, increase watering, trim off any damaged parts, and replant in fresh soil. You can also treat the roots with a fungicide.
Propagation, planting and replanting of indoor hot peppers
This ornamental plant is most often propagated by seed, less commonly by cuttings. Seeds are sown in February using two methods: the first involves planting directly from seedlings and transplanting, while the second involves growing seedlings and then pricking them out.
For the first method, you need to immediately select a pot in which to grow the peppers. It should hold 4-6 liters. Soak the planting material in water for 1 hour, then place it in a damp cloth and leave it for 24 hours. Place the seeds in a container with fertile soil, 2-4 mm deep, mist the soil with a spray bottle, and cover with a plastic bag.
For the second method, follow the same steps with the seeds, but plant them in a small container holding approximately 200 ml. After four leaves appear, transplant the seedlings and pinch them. Transplanting is done by turning the root ball over to avoid damaging the fragile roots. Regardless of the planting method, it's important to disinfect the soil beforehand by watering it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
You may be interested in:The plant can be propagated by cuttings during the active growing season. To do this, cut off the side stems and plant them in a sandy soil mixture for rooting. Ensure good drainage, as the plant will remain in the same container after rooting.
Frequently asked questions about growing hot peppers at home
Growing peppers at home is quite simple. They're perfect for those who don't like waiting long for results, as it only takes 3-4 months from sowing seeds to harvesting. By following all the care instructions, you can grow not only a vibrant plant but also an excellent spice for canning and pickling.
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