Fertilization with manure

Manure is one of the most common fertilizers. It has many advantages, from its affordability to its eco-friendliness. Let's look at the different types of manure, how, and when to use them.

Description

Manure is a byproduct of farm animals. It contains active microflora and is a source of energy and nutrients for the soil. It contains many beneficial elements: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, iron, and more.

The effect of manure on soil

• reducing the impact of herbicides;
• reduction of acidity;
• neutralization of excess salts;
• improving overall quality;
• saturation with essential microelements.

All this has a positive effect on the harvest. Many note that after using manure, plants become stronger and healthier, and vegetables and fruits taste better.

Types of manure and droppings

The droppings of many yard animals and birds can be used as fertilizer. Let's look at the most popular types of compost.

Horse manure

This fertilizer has excellent properties:

• quickly and efficiently warms up the soil;
• decomposes quickly;
• can be used in different forms (compost, liquid fertilizer, mixed and unmixed);
• It does not have the negative properties of other types - moisture, density, strong unpleasant odor.

Horse manure contains water, organic matter, potassium, nitrogen, phosphorus, and calcium. Its nitrogen content is higher than that of other types of manure, which is beneficial for plants.

Cow dung

Composted cow manure is a popular, affordable, and high-quality fertilizer. It is applied to plants at a rate of 3 kg/m². This fertilizer does not burn roots and slowly releases micronutrients to plants, significantly extending its lifespan. Using fresh cow manure is not recommended, as it can harm plants. Furthermore, fresh manure contains a large number of worm eggs and pathogenic microflora, so caution should be exercised when handling it: wear rubber gloves and a gauze bandage.

Rabbit manure

The main advantages of this fertilizer are its easy-to-transport consistency and the absence of parasites and weed seeds. Another distinctive feature of rabbit manure is its magnesium content. Unlike other manures, this type can be ground into powder and used as a substrate for indoor plants. The fertilizer should not be used in its pure or fresh form. It should also not be exposed to freezing temperatures or boiling water.

Goat manure

A significant advantage of goat manure is that it only needs to be used in small quantities. It's also convenient because it compresses as it dries, losing its unpleasant odor and turning into granules. Goat manure can last for 2-3 years after a single application.

The quality of this fertilizer is affected by the diet of its "producers." It works best when goats are fed coarse grasses, such as hay, legume straw, and bran. The lowest-quality manure results from animals grazing near major highways or factories, as the droppings will contain heavy metals.

Elk dung

Moose manure is virtually identical in composition to other types. Its advantages include a virtually odorless and convenient consistency. Moose manure is most often used for houseplants: it makes flowers larger and brighter, and is also particularly convenient for indoor use.

Sheep's milks

It's best to compost this type before use, otherwise it can damage the plant's root structure. Sheep manure is dense and dry, so it's diluted with liquid manure before use. This fertilizer is well suited for heavy clay and loamy soils and is beneficial for potatoes and beets.

Quail manure

The nutrients found in quail manure are easily absorbed by plants, making it particularly effective. Many gardeners raise quail specifically for their manure. This is cost-effective, considering that 1 kg of feed yields 1 kg of manure. Fresh quail manure contains urea, which has a negative impact on plants. Quail manure lasts for up to 3 years after a single application.

Pigeon manure

Pigeon manure is considered even more effective than horse manure: it contains four times more nitrogen and eight times more phosphorus. When raising pigeons for their manure, keep in mind that one bird produces approximately 3 kg of waste per year, so a large number of individuals is required. This fertilizer is used either dry or as a solution. It is not recommended to add it to houseplants, as the excess nitrogen, even in humus, will damage the delicate root system of houseplants.

Goose manure

This fertilizer contains very little nitrogen (10 times less than chicken manure). It should not be mixed with soil: goose manure is more effective when used as a fertilizer for plants. Fresh manure is diluted at a ratio of 1:10.

Chicken manure

This fertilizer is similar to mineral fertilizers in its chemical content. It is considered more effective than cattle manure. Chicken manure is less susceptible to leaching from the soil, and its nutrients are gradually and evenly transferred to plants, guaranteeing high-quality nutrition over a long period (3-4 years). It contains no weed seeds or pest eggs. Chicken manure is sold in granulated form, which appeals to gardeners who don't want to raise poultry.

Duck manure

Duck droppings, especially those of the Indian Runner breed, are one of the gentlest organic fertilizers available. When using them, it's best to compost them with plant residues or sawdust. They're also an excellent fertilizer for greenhouses, especially for cucumbers. Mixing duck droppings with high-moor peat is beneficial.

Types of horse manure

Manure exists in both liquid and dry forms. Depending on the degree of decomposition, it is divided into four groups, each with its own properties.

Fresh humus

The manure itself cannot be used as fertilizer. Firstly, it contains a high amount of nitrogen, which can simply burn plant roots. It's not for nothing that horse manure is called "hot fertilizer." Secondly, it contains weed seeds, fungal spores, worm eggs, and other undesirable elements.

Half-rotted dung

As a fertilizer, this type of horse manure is typically used to prepare a semi-liquid fertilizer or as a soil amendment during tilling. In this form, the manure contains less nitrogen and harmful components, so it poses minimal harm to crops. However, using it as a complete fertilizer is still not recommended.

Well-rotted humus

At this stage of development, manure can already be used as fertilizer. The humus has already lost its original form and is half its original weight. It is added to the soil at a ratio of 1 part manure to 2 parts soil.

Horse manure

Well-rotted horse manure is considered the best organic fertilizer. It's suitable for all types of plants and contains a wealth of beneficial substances. Humus has a beneficial effect on plants, providing them with all the necessary nutrients.

How to make fertilizer from bird droppings

In addition to the general methods for preparing fertilizer from manure described below, there are others developed specifically for poultry manure. The most important of these is the simple dilution of dry manure in water at a ratio of 1:20. The resulting liquid is then fed to plants. This method is effective because bird manure contains a high concentration of nitrogen, which is harmful to plants in high concentrations.

Making fertilizer from manure

To convert manure into a complete fertilizer, one of the following methods is used.

1. Composting. To turn a regular pile into a compost pit, add last year's substrate to the base. Then add layers of organic waste, topped with manure. This structure should be 1-1.5 meters high. It is watered and left to rot for about a year.
2. Vermicomposting. Manure is acidified with slaked lime or ash, then worms are added to it. Californian red worms are preferred. As they live, the worms break down the manure, making it an even more useful fertilizer.
3. Accelerated fermentation using humates. Early in the spring (2-3 months before use), the manure is watered with a humate solution at a ratio of 10 g of humates per 10 kg of manure, then thoroughly mixed. The resulting fertilizer is more concentrated (requiring three times less than pure manure) and also cheaper.
4. Steeping. The simplest processing method allows you to cleanse manure of worm eggs, insects, and weeds. Add the manure to water in a 1:1 ratio and let it sit for a week. The resulting mixture is diluted again with water in a 1:10 ratio and used as irrigation water.

Using manure as fertilizer

Manure only becomes a truly effective fertilizer when it's in the form of compost or well-rotted material. Fresh manure, as mentioned earlier, can damage the root system of plants.

Manure is applied to the soil once every 2-3 years. This is more than sufficient: the fertilizer gradually releases its elements to the soil and plants. Standard application rates are 300-400 kg per hectare.

What and when to feed

Processed manure is suitable for all crops – from vegetables and grains to fruit trees and houseplants. It is especially effective for potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes, pears, raspberries, daffodils, and geraniums.

The best method is to incorporate manure into the soil in the fall, after harvesting. Before the next planting, the manure will have time to begin to combine with the soil and release its nutrients, so that in the spring the soil will be fully prepared for new plants.

Storage of manure

Manure is typically stored using one of three methods: anaerobic, aerobic, or a combination of both. In the first case, the material barely heats up, while in the second, it quickly loses nitrogen and other beneficial elements. The combination method is considered the best.

1. During the warm season, the manure should be placed in a loose pile and left there for 3-5 days to heat the fertilizer to approximately 70 degrees.
2. Once the mixture has heated up and begins to cool, it should be compacted thoroughly and covered with plastic wrap. Water or slop is often used to compact the mixture.
3. Now the manure can be stored for a long time, retaining all its properties.

Reviewy

Whether or not to use manure is a constant debate among gardeners. Some consider manure a fertilizer of the past, while others vehemently defend its effectiveness. Here's what vegetable growers are writing on their forums.

Alina:

"I conducted an experiment a few years ago. I had two identical beet beds. I fertilized one with horse manure and the other with liquid fertilizer from the store. In the manure bed, the soil was loose, rich, and downright lush—a joy to behold. But weeds grew instantly, and there were plenty of worms—clearly the soil was rich. In the second bed, the soil was hard and gray, impossible to dig, and the few weeds were impossible to pull out. In terms of yield, the beets in the first bed were larger and healthier than those in the second. For me, the choice was obvious—now I fertilize everything with manure, although I've switched to chicken manure, as I have plenty of it."

Margarita:

"I always fertilize everything with cow manure! All these modern fertilizers are pure chemicals, nasty stuff, and then the vegetables are poisoned and the flowers are wilted. Manure is natural and pure. Besides, chemicals are a one-time thing, while manure is applied once, and it works for two or three years, keeping the soil healthy."