Spring pear treatment against pests and diseases: folk methods

Regular and measured treatment of pear trees in the spring increases yield and reduces the risk of pests and various diseases. Treatment should be performed only with a freshly prepared solution and after the mandatory removal of dead bark particles, lichen, and moss. Before using any medication, read the instructions and wear personal protective equipment. Strict adherence to the indicated dosage is the key to success.

Features of spring processing

The optimal time for treatment is evening or dawn. Avoid this procedure before rain or in windy weather. Before beginning work, take into account the region's climate, which may delay the treatment to a certain extent.

Regardless of the plan drawn up, you should adhere to watering standards:

• 1-2 years of plant – up to 15 liters per 1 m2 of trunk circle;
• 3-4 years – up to 30 liters per 1 m2;
• fruit-bearing tree - it is necessary to ensure that water penetrates to a depth of at least 60 cm.

During the spring months, prevent the root system from drying out. One way to ensure the minimum required moisture level is to mulch the area around the tree trunk. Straw or wood chips are suitable for this purpose. It's best to avoid using sawdust, as it significantly increases soil acidity. The recommended mulch layer thickness is 5 cm.

Pruning is another important stage of pear tree care in the spring. It occurs from early March to mid-April. The date is chosen based on the region's climate. Pruning can only be carried out when the air temperature is at least +5°C (41°F) to +7°C (41°F). Young trees are pruned to shape the crown, while older trees are pruned for sanitary reasons.

Grafting completes the list of essential spring procedures. The purpose of this procedure is to improve the organoleptic characteristics of the fruit. As with the previous procedure, the timing is determined by the weather.

Processing phases

1. The optimal time for the first spraying is early spring. The signal will be the disappearance of snow from the ground. The gardener's task is to remove overwintering pests from the bark. If everything is done correctly, the tree will be in good shape by the time the sap begins to flow and buds appear.
2. The second treatment is scheduled for April. Its purpose is to prevent the development of bacterial and fungal diseases.
3. The gardener carries out the third spraying in May. The first green leaves and the beginning of active flowering will signal the need for this treatment. The final treatment is carried out in May. It is necessary to protect the tree from fruit stem activity.

Before bud break

Young trees are pruned to 1/2 meter from the ground. If the pear tree is two years old, it should be pruned to 1.5 meters from the ground. Nitrogen fertilizers are essential to improve crown formation.

The goal of the spring treatment itself is to prevent moniliosis. The gardener's job is to complete all procedures before the buds swell. Simply put, everything must be done while the tree is still "bare." The only drawback to the first treatment is that it must be timed with pinpoint precision, otherwise the tree will do more harm than good.

The list of recommended substances is as follows:

• iodine;
• "Hom";
• Bordeaux mixture (3%);
• "Raek";
• "Oxychom";
• "Skor";
• "Horus" - used at temperatures not exceeding +5C;
• iron sulfate;
• Nitrafen.

The solution is prepared immediately before treatment. Do not increase or decrease the recommended concentration.

Green cone

The onset of active swelling and bursting of buds is a signal that spraying is needed. Beginning gardeners should pay attention to the shape of the buds. If they become cone-shaped, the tree needs treatment. The more precise the timing, the less likely it is that weevils will appear.

The list of recommended drugs is as follows:

• "Spark";
• Inta-Vir
• "Decis Profi";
• "Tanker";
• "Furafon";
• Kinmix.

The positive aspects of this type of treatment include the ability to reduce the risk of crop loss, but the negative aspects include the need to accurately determine the start time of the treatment. Even a minor error can render the procedure useless.

Emergence of green buds

The majority of the advice relies on folk remedies—the use of adhesive insect traps. These are hung on trees. If you don't want to buy them from a store, you can make your own. Take pieces of white paper and apply a biologically neutral adhesive to them.

Pinking of buds

Spraying is prohibited after flower buds begin to open. Choosing the right time is the key to success. The codling moth will physically be unable to lay eggs. The crown of the plant should be treated more closely.

The list of recommended drugs includes the following substances:

• "Ikr";
• Fitoveri;
• "Tanrek";
• Kinmix.

Bloom

This is not done. Otherwise, there is a high risk of destroying the bees.

After flowering

This completes the spring treatment cycle. The sign of the need for treatment will be the emergence of ovaries. They should be at least the size of a pea. In this situation, the risk of moniliosis increases several times. Codling moth infestations increase exponentially.

The use of chemicals is prohibited. Old-fashioned techniques will come to the rescue. The simplest is to make a rich apple syrup. Pour the liquid into small containers and hang them on tree branches. Within a few hours, the pest will sink to the bottom.

Fertilizers and folk remedies

The measured application of properly selected fertilizers ensures high yields and resistance to pathogens. The gardener's task is to correctly determine the tree's nutrient requirements. It's important to remember that both under- and over-fertilization can cause problems.

Urea (carbamide)

It saturates the soil with minerals. The prepared solution is applied at a low concentration. The next step is spot spraying of the leaves. The disadvantage of this method is the increased risk of burning. In addition to urea, phosphorus and potassium sulfate are used. The latter is designed to accelerate shoot growth. Soil pH is always checked.

The recipe is as follows:

• disease and pest prevention: 800 g dry matter per 10 l of water;
• Foliar feeding: 50 g per 10 l of water.

The recommended dosage for the first treatment in early spring is 700 g of dry matter per 10 liters of water. Spray before the buds begin to actively swell. Adding 50 g of copper sulfate to the solution will enhance the effect. The resulting solution has the advantage of not burning the leaves. Urea is considered a universal fertilizer that stimulates seedling growth in any soil.

Regarding the disadvantages of the substance, the following facts are worth mentioning. First, application must be carried out only while wearing protective clothing. Second, mixing urea with other fertilizers is prohibited.

Bordeaux mixture

Apply once before bud break. A solution containing a balanced combination of copper sulfate and lime has proven effective in controlling pests and pathogens. The only drawback is that failure to adhere to the dosages appropriate for a particular pear variety will lead to dire consequences.

The correct cooking recipe looks like this:

• to create a 3% solution, take 400 g of lime and 300 g of copper sulfate;
• in a separate container, lime is slaked with water;
• in a separate container, 5 liters of water are diluted with copper sulfate;
• lime is diluted in a separate container with 5 liters of water;
• carefully mix everything in 1 container;
• Before use, the solution is filtered through cheesecloth;
• To prepare a 1% solution, you only need to add 100g of copper sulfate and lime to the recipe already described;
• in spring, up to 2 treatments are carried out;
• dormant buds are treated with a 3% solution;
• During the period of active vegetation, a 1% solution is used.

The benefits of this broad-spectrum substance include rapid contact with pathogenic bacteria. Even after rain, the substance remains on surfaces. The therapeutic effect lasts for at least a month.

The disadvantages of Bordeaux mixture include its high toxicity, so treatment should be carried out no more than once and with pinpoint precision. Even the slightest deviation from the recipe will result in serious damage to the tree.

Karbofos

It is used for spraying. To calculate the correct dosage, the area of ​​the surface being treated is taken into account. For 10 liters of water, use 40 g of the product. The mixture is sufficient for an area of ​​1-2 m2. The recommended frequency of treatment is no more than twice per season, otherwise the fruit will lose its flavor.

The positive aspects of using Karbofos include its high effectiveness. One treatment is sufficient to destroy pathogenic crops and pests, both adults and larvae. A significant drawback of the product is its persistent unpleasant odor. Eliminating it is virtually impossible. Therefore, treatment should only be carried out while wearing protective clothing. Another drawback is that failure to adhere to the recommended dosage will result in burns and accumulation of harmful substances in the fruit.

Fitosporin

The solution is diluted exclusively in rainwater or well water. It must be left to sit for 5 hours. This time period is necessary to activate the beneficial bacteria. Treatment is carried out once a month. Its drawback is that bacterial activity decreases in hot and cold weather. It is recommended to use the product at consistently moderate temperatures.

The recipe is as follows:

• 5 g of dry matter is diluted in 10 liters of water;
• for preventative purposes, spraying is carried out at the stage of leaf unfolding, and then as soon as the ovaries begin to form;
• The treatment is carried out only in a protective suit and in cool weather.

The product's advantages include a broad spectrum of action. Another advantage is that it can be applied at any stage of tree development. Among its disadvantages, the first is that it cannot be applied in sunny weather. Exposure to UV rays destroys the beneficial elements of the product.

Folk remedies

They have proven effective only for small lesions or for preventative purposes. Regularly alternating folk remedies is recommended to prevent pathogenic bacteria from developing immunity. A tobacco solution has become popular. The recipe for its preparation is as follows:

• water and tobacco infusion are mixed in a ratio of 1:10;
• stir and leave for 24 hours;
• filter the solution;
• dilute the solution with water in a ratio of 1:3;
• add liquid soap - 4 g for every 1 l.

Spray the bark and leaves. Two treatments are required during the spring. While this mixture reduces the likelihood of insect infestations, it's not very effective against widespread infestations of fruit trees. Another recipe uses red pepper. Use 500 g of dried pepper or 1 kg of fresh pepper per 10 liters of water. Let the mixture steep for 48 hours, then boil for 120 minutes. Add 40 ml of liquid soap.

In addition to the options already listed, there are a number of other recipes:

1. Potato infusion: Take 500 g of dried or 1 kg of fresh potato tops. Chop them and add hot water. Let the mixture steep for 4 hours. Then strain it and add 1 tablespoon of liquid soap. The resulting solution should be used within 1-2 hours of preparation, otherwise it loses its effectiveness, which is its downside.
2. Marigolds – 100 g of flowers and 1 liter of water. Boil the mixture for 2 hours, then let it steep for 5 days. Before spraying, dilute it with water to ½ its volume. Apply twice – in early and late fall.

Dandelion infusion is a powerful antiseptic that requires extreme caution. Take 1 kg of leaves and 3 liters of water. Let the mixture steep for 72 hours. Before spraying, strain the solution and dilute it with 30 g of liquid soap. One treatment is required before flowering. If the pear tree is heavily infested with pathogens, this recipe is useless.

Control of ants and aphids

When it comes to fruit trees, fumigation and various toxic liquids are prohibited. Even minor use of these methods will adversely affect the health of the pear tree. Spraying with tea is prohibited. As for other recommendations, they are as follows:

• You need to sound the alarm at the moment when the leaves start to curl;
• the presence of traces of a sweetish liquid and partial shedding of flowers is another sign of pest activity;
• A short cold shower for a tree is an effective way to kill aphids;
• It is prohibited to use products used last year, as pests develop immunity to them;
• It is forbidden to plant greenery that attract pests near the pear tree, such as linden, bird cherry and mallow.

Fans of folk methods can try treating the plant with a mixture of soapy water and ash.

The recipe is as follows:

• grate 2 bars of laundry soap on a coarse grater;
• 10 liters of warm water;
• mix everything in a bucket and bring to a homogeneous state;
• add 1 kg of ash.

Treatment is carried out at a rate of 1-2 liters per 1 m² of area. This method does not promote the accumulation of toxic substances in the fruit tree. Its only drawback is that it is ineffective against large insect infestations. In such situations, laundry soap can be replaced with green soap. Use 200 g of the solution per 10 liters of water. In both cases, two treatments are carried out, separated by 4-5 days.

The recipe is not dangerous for trees or humans, but it is fatal for aphids.

Fighting tinder fungi

Pear trees are far from the top spot on the list of places where pathogenic fungi appear, but that's no reason to relax. Even a small wound in the bark can be a source of infection, allowing spores to easily penetrate. Promptly identifying the problem is the only way to save the crop. You can eliminate the fungus using one of the following methods:

• constantly monitor and remove dead parts of bark and branches;
• identify and cover up all damage as quickly as possible using garden varnish;
• Hollows must be sealed using crushed stone or broken brick mixed with cement mortar.

If the above methods are unsuccessful, the mycelium is physically removed and burned. This procedure is performed in August, otherwise the spores will remain. Recurrence will not be long in coming. The areas where the tinder fungus was previously present are treated with copper sulfate (4%). The wound is then generously sealed with garden pitch.

Fighting wasps

Insects are attracted to the high sugar levels in fruits. The easiest way to destroy them is to treat the nest with dichlorvos. Another option is to collect rotten pears and scatter them around the trees. The bait should be liberally treated with Regent beforehand. Regardless of the size of the wasp colony, the use of insecticides is prohibited.

Bird control

The easiest way is to cover the trees with protective netting. The netting is made of plastic. Another option is to cover large trees with rustling bags. The noise will scare away the birds.

Conclusion

Regularly treating pears increases yield and improves their resistance to pests and adverse environmental conditions. All treatments must be performed strictly at the designated time. Precision is essential when choosing the correct dosage for earthing, watering, and spraying. Both too much and too little will negate a gardener's efforts. Safety precautions should be observed. Wear gloves and protective clothing when performing treatments.