Lilac is an ornamental flowering shrub that grows in any garden. Its beauty is particularly evident in spring, during the flowering season. To ensure lush blooms, aging lilacs require rejuvenation, specifically pruning in the fall.
Trimming the branches of a bush in the spring is not advisable; pruning shoots during the growing season will not benefit the plant, so it is carried out only in urgent need, for sanitary purposes.
Why do we trim bushes?
The main purpose of pruning lilacs in the fall is to rejuvenate the bush and promote abundant blooms the following season. Failure to prune will result in the bush becoming tall, the flowers will become smaller, and the foliage will lose its rich green color.
By following the basic rules for performing the manipulation, the gardener can:
- rejuvenate an existing bush;
- to form a spreading crown;
- stimulate the growth of shoots in the desired direction, without thickening;
- will ensure lush flowering;
- remove all damaged shoots.
During the first 2-3 years after planting, pruning is not necessary because the bush grows slowly. Only sanitary pruning is performed, which includes removing damaged branches to prevent fungal diseases. In the fall, branches can be pruned back to four pairs of leaves to promote better branching.
If a gardener expects flowering next season, it's best to avoid pruning young branches, as buds form on them in early spring. Removing these branches will result in sparse flowering.
How to prune in autumn
Autumn pruning is formative and is performed to remove root suckers, damaged, broken stems, and diseased shoots. Gardeners should remember that before winter approaches, the pruning volume should not exceed 20% of the plant's total above-ground mass; otherwise, vigorous root sucker growth is possible in the fall. All young shoots will inevitably die during the winter, leading to infection of the mature bush.
Before pruning, it's important to create a rough outline of the plant afterward. It's important to determine how the lilac should look in the garden—spreading, compact, tall, or not so tall. To create a lush crown, 6-8 main shoots are needed. If the bush is planned to be tall but not dense, three central shoots are left. To maintain symmetry during pruning, even branches growing in different directions are left. Failure to follow this rule will result in a lopsided bush, which is very difficult to correct. The only option is to completely cut it back in winter.
In the first year after planting, remove all weak, crooked, and damaged shoots from the seedling. If the plant has two branches of the same size growing in the same direction, one of them is pruned. Branches extending from the base of the plant are shortened by a third or half their length. Ideally, all shoots should be the same length.
In the fall of the second year, the first full pruning is performed. The main branches are left untouched. Shoots growing on the main branches are removed, leaving only the strongest ones, maintaining a uniform appearance. A general pruning removes a third of the shoots. The same procedure is followed in subsequent years until the desired crown is achieved.
Trimming patterns
There are two methods for pruning lilacs. The first involves shaping the crown, while the second involves removing faded flowers and rejuvenating the branches. Crown pruning, to stimulate growth and mass gain, is recommended to be done in the spring, sacrificing flowering during the season. Larger branches are pruned back by a third. Immediately after shaping, some bare spots may appear in the crown, noticeable after the lilac blooms—this is normal.
Inflorescence pruning is performed immediately after flowering ends. This is necessary to establish flower buds for the following season. If faded inflorescences are not removed, budding will not occur, and flowering will be sparse or nonexistent.
Necessary tools
To carry out pruning you will need:
- pruning shears;
- double-sided cutting pruner;
- lopper;
- scissors;
- garden saw;
- gloves;
- garden knife;
- soft knee pads.
You may be interested in:When choosing tools, pay attention to:
- maximum sharpness;
- safety;
- ease of use;
- tapered blade edges;
- strength and lightness.
Before carrying out work, all tools are treated to prevent the spread of pests, bacteria, viruses and fungi throughout the garden.
General rules for pruning lilacs
The list of basic rules and recommendations includes:
- Sanitary pruning is carried out 3 times per season: in summer, spring and autumn, all damaged branches are removed;
- when cutting large trunks, the cut must be sealed;
- There is no need to trim the crown to the same height at once; this can be done once a year, immediately after flowering;
- rejuvenating pruning is carried out annually;
- Regulatory pruning will allow you to get lush flowering every year; for this, the skeletal branches are trimmed at different levels;
- It is forbidden to break off flower stalks;
- No more than 40% of the blossoming branches can be cut for bouquets; otherwise, flowering will not occur the following year, and the plant will continue to grow in size and foliage.
Following these rules will allow you to obtain abundant flowering on a healthy, evenly formed bush.
How to prune lilacs
It's difficult to say definitively how to prune lilacs correctly. The technique used depends on the desired results.
Before flowering
In early spring, the bush is carefully thinned. Extensive branch removal will result in a lack of flowers in April. At this time, a sanitary pruning and thinning of undergrowth are carried out. It is important to remove all broken and blackened branches so that the bush's appearance does not deteriorate as the foliage and flowers mature.
During flowering
Don't be afraid to cut flowers for bouquets—it's the key to lush blooms next season, but don't overdo it. Removing blooms can delay flowering if done in moderation.
When cutting flowering bouquets, thin out the shrub and remove young branches growing deep into the ground. Use sharp scissors or pruning shears for cutting.
After flowering
Heavy pruning is performed after flowering has finished. This procedure requires adherence to the following rules:
- carried out immediately after flowering;
- skeletal branches and shoots are removed;
- Cut off faded flower stalks to prevent seeds from ripening.
Large cuts are coated with paint or drying oil, otherwise the branches may rot.
You may be interested in:Thinning the bush
This is done in the spring. Branches growing deep into the bush are removed. Root suckers are removed. This can be done in the fall, but before temperatures drop below 0 degrees Celsius.
Sanitary pruning
The purpose of the operation is to remove:
- dry, crooked branches;
- competing, broken, crooked shoots;
- branches and trunks cracked with age;
- undergrowth thickening the crown;
- the remains of faded inflorescences.
This treatment is carried out in the fall before frost sets in. It can also be carried out immediately after flowering has finished.
Formative pruning
Forming a lush shrub or tree with a uniform crown is a lengthy process that requires considerable time and effort. It takes years to achieve the desired characteristics, as pruning branches en masse is detrimental to the plant.
- Preparation begins in the bush's second year of growth. Five main stems are left. The remaining branches are cut off at the base and processed. The tops of the remaining branches are trimmed to the same level.
- After a year, the branches are treated, leaving the developed shoots of the upper part of the bush. Inward-facing shoots are removed, along with damaged parts of the future crown.
- The crown manipulation described in this step is repeated annually.
Standard pruning
Standard pruning requires removing all but one stem. In the first year, the seedling is pinched back to the height of the branching point, ideally 0.5-0.7 m. Next, the crown is pruned using the formative pruning principle. Four main shoots are then left, and the shoots on these shoots are thinned out annually. This process continues until the desired shape, crown diameter, and height are achieved.
Rejuvenating pruning
Caring for lilacs Autumn often involves rejuvenation procedures. These are essential for overgrown shrubs. This process involves removing all plant trunks to a depth of 15-30 cm (depending on their condition). If there are any shoots, they are removed before the cold weather sets in to prevent rot. The cuts are treated with drying oil. In the spring, the shrub will sprout new shoots—these should be used to grow into a full-grown bush.
When is the best time to prune lilacs: in spring or autumn?
Carrying out pruning in spring has its advantages, but it cannot be said that it is better to carry out pruning in spring, due to the following facts:
- the plant, due to the abundant, unnecessary mass of shoots, does not receive enough nutrients in winter;
- susceptible to various diseases during cold weather;
- will not bloom in spring.
Spring pruning is beneficial when rapid foliage growth is needed, or when the lilac has been ailing for a long time and is unable to regain its strength. In this case, the shrub should not be allowed to bloom. In spring, when the plant is in bloom, pruning a healthy bush involves creating cut flowers and bouquets for home decoration.
Processing of cuts
To treat cuts after removing large branches, I recommend using garden pitch. This product contains wax, vegetable oils, and rosin. This treatment is necessary to prevent rot and fungal infections. Garden pitch is always applied to the cut after pruning in the fall.
Caring for a bush after pruning
After the fall pruning, watering is reduced to a minimum, and the plant is gradually prepared for lower temperatures. Excess moisture in the root system is harmful. Fertilizing lilacs in the fall is not necessary. In regions with significantly lower temperatures, mulch the soil. The mulch will provide additional nutrition to the plant and act as fertilizer.
After pruning, the woody part of the plant should be inspected for rot and pests. If any damage is present, treat it before frost.
Conclusion
Anyone can grow a lush lilac bush in their garden, but shaping it correctly requires effort. Failure to follow these guidelines will result in the bush having to be trained from scratch. By following these instructions, a gardener is destined for success.