Description and methods of controlling raspberry pests and diseases

Treating raspberry diseases is primarily preventative, requiring adherence to proper agricultural practices. Problems most often arise when neighboring unkempt, neglected gardens are present, during years with unfavorable weather, disease outbreaks, or when pest infestations are widespread.

Viral diseases

Once viruses reach raspberry plantings, saving them is virtually impossible. There are several ways they can spread:

1. When juice from affected plants comes into contact with healthy ones.
2. Viruses are transmitted by sucking insects – aphids, mites and nematodes.
3. The disease can be transmitted by using garden tools that were used to work with diseased plants.
4. In rare cases, viruses are transmitted through pollen from infected crops.

Virus-infected raspberry bushes cannot be propagated; their offspring will also become infected. You can protect your plants from infection by choosing varieties resistant to viral diseases. Proper site selection, timely watering, fertilizing, and thinning pruning significantly boost the plant's natural immunity.

All infected stems are cut down to the roots; most often, the entire raspberry patch must be uprooted to prevent the disease from spreading to neighboring crops. After this, the soil in the former raspberry patch is treated. Farmayod is diluted in high concentrations and the beds are watered generously. After the autumn treatment, compost is spread over the soil, the treatment is repeated in early spring, and phacelia is sown. Raspberries are replanted the following year.

Mosaic

Mosaic symptoms can vary depending on the raspberry variety and the virulence of the pathogen strains. Most often, the first symptoms appear on the leaves as irregular yellow spots. Initially, the necroses are randomly distributed, but towards the end of the summer season, the leaf blades become completely covered with these spots, becoming bumpy, corrugated, and irregularly shaped. Affected shoots may grow normally or stunt, and the bushes become dwarfed.

The virus always manifests itself in the same way on berries: they become small and dry, their flavor and aroma are lost, and only the acidity remains. Yield, winter hardiness, and drought resistance are significantly reduced. Raspberry bushes infected with the mosaic disease can survive for about 3 or 4 years, after which the bushes gradually die off. Visible manifestations of the virus are observed in spring and fall; in hot summer weather, the mosaic disease can be camouflaged, and the bushes appear quite healthy; it can only be detected by the condition of the fruit.

Chlorosis

The first sign is yellowing of the leaves along the main veins, which soon turn completely yellow. The shoots become thin and elongated. The fruits dry out, becoming woody, small, and unpleasant to the taste.

Chlorosis cannot be cured; it must be prevented. Treat the bushes for sucking insects (vectors) in early spring, during bud break and at the beginning of flowering. Use a 3% solution of Nitrafen. For the second treatment, prepare a 0.1% emulsion of 30% methyl mercaptophos. For the final treatment, select any extended-release insecticide (against aphids, mites, and nematodes).

The same symptoms accompany non-viral chlorosis, which can develop in poor soil with high humidity or excessive alkalinity. Sometimes gardeners complain that non-viral chlorosis appears after watering with cold water.

In such cases, the soil is tidied up, normal acidity is restored (neutral), superphosphate and manure are no longer applied, and the soil is loosened periodically. A solution of bird droppings, nitrogen-containing fertilizers, and potassium fertilizers are used as supplementary fertilizer. If, after the soil has been normalized, signs of damage appear the following season, the bushes need to be uprooted.

Witch's broom

This disease is also commonly known as raspberry broom, raspberry dwarfism, or raspberry dwarfism. It is most common in the Non-Chernozem Zone of the Russian Federation. A characteristic symptom is the formation of a large number (up to 300) of thin shoots, which appear in clusters on a single section of the rhizome. The dense, bushy, dwarf bush resembles a broom tip. The plant height, however, remains around 20 cm.

The virus can affect both young and mature raspberry bushes, causing the leaves to become smaller, take on an atypical shape, and develop irregular yellow spots on the blades. In some varieties, the main symptoms are accompanied by the appearance of flower petals (the petals resemble leaf-like structures).

The disease is chronic; bushes grow for up to 15 years without recovering or dying. Symptoms appear simultaneously and persist throughout all stages of the growing season. Even with strict adherence to agricultural practices, the virus will not disappear; its symptoms may become less noticeable. Witch's broom spreads very quickly, with yields and fruit quality declining in the early stages. After 2 or 3 years, the bushes stop producing flower shoots.

The disease is caused by mycoplasma, a cross between a virus and a bacterium. Leafhoppers transmit the disease, but the main source of infection for healthy raspberries in the garden remains planting material taken from diseased plants. How to protect raspberries from leafhoppers:

• Buy seedlings only from trusted sources. The best resistant varieties include Latam, Alma-Atinskaya, Phoenix, Newburgh, and Zolotaya Koroleva. Among the most susceptible varieties are Novost Kuzmina, Malling Jewel, Kaliningradskaya, Karnaval, Usanka, Vislukha, as well as Glen Klova and Barnaulskaya.
• To prevent the appearance of leafhoppers, raspberries are planted in well-lit, ventilated areas; the pest develops intensively in the shade with high air humidity;
• When the buds begin to open, during the flowering period and after harvesting, chemical treatments against leafhoppers are carried out with Actellic or any other special preparation.

Proper care helps improve raspberry immunity to witch's broom. Treatment is a complex process, and only scientists can handle it.

Streak or striping

Stripes or short streaks appear on the stems of annual shoots, and the internodes are shortened. Leaves grow very close together, with the blades spiraling and pressed against the stem. Affected bushes survive no more than three years, then dry up. Yields from these plants are minimal, and the quality of the berries declines sharply. It is impossible to alleviate symptoms or cure the raspberry.

Curly hair

The first symptoms are noticeable on the leaves: they become stiff and curl into tubes. This is accompanied by a change in the leaf's color, initially with large brown spots that eventually dry out. The berries become deformed, and the taste becomes predominantly sour.

The disease is spread by aphids and nematodes, and the virus is also transmitted by poor-quality planting material. There is no treatment, the virus spreads rapidly, and infected bushes die within two years.

Ring spot

The virus develops very slowly, but it's dangerous because its initial stages can only be noticed in spring or fall. Leaves develop small yellow spots, curl, thin, and become very brittle. The plant's growth slows.

Severe symptoms are observed in the second year after infection, with the number of weakened leaves increasing significantly and yields declining. After 3 or 4 years, the raspberry bush will dry out. The disease is transmitted by a soil-dwelling nematode. Prevention:

• When the first signs of disease are noticeable, the affected bushes are uprooted, and the soil in the entire raspberry area is treated with nematicides strictly according to the instructions;
• Raspberries should not be planted after cabbage, tomatoes, or strawberries. Legumes are the best predecessors.

Fungal diseases

Fungi are the most common and harmful microorganisms affecting raspberries, accounting for 80% of all possible diseases. They penetrate plant tissue through various, even the smallest, wounds. Pests can also carry the disease, and the disease can also be introduced into a raspberry patch through unhealthy seedlings.

Anthracnose

Small spots with a gray center and a brown, fuzzy border appear on the leaves along the veins and closer to the edges of the blade. In severe cases, the lesions coalesce, causing the leaves to curl and fall off. Small, sunken ulcers form on the petioles, which eventually fuse and crack. The tips of annual and biennial shoots also become covered with grayish ulcers with a purple border. The tissue gradually cracks, turning completely gray.

As the disease spreads, the spots spread to fruiting branches, ringing them and causing them to dry out. The berries become deformed, lopsided, turn brown, and dry out.

The gray spots produce numerous spores, which thrive in a moist environment. The spores overwinter on affected shoots and leaves, and in the spring, young leaves and branches quickly become infected. Anthracnose spreads rapidly. Prevention and treatment:

• in cases where seedlings were purchased from unverified sources, the planting material is disinfected (rinsed completely) in a 1% solution of copper sulfate;
• Severely affected parts of the bush are cut out, it will no longer be possible to completely cure them, all fallen leaves and berries are removed from the raspberry patch;
• In early spring, when the buds are still dormant, the bushes are sprayed with a 3% solution of Nitrafen or a 4% Bordeaux mixture. During the active growing season, raspberries are treated with a 1% Bordeaux mixture or products such as Phtalan, Captan, and Zineb, strictly according to the instructions.

Small areas with raspberries can be treated with antibiotics - Nystatin (100 ml per 10 liters of water) or Griseofulvin 1.5 grams per bucket of water.

Botrytis (Gray mold)

The berries are the first to suffer, with individual, soft, brown spots appearing on them. These quickly grow and lead to the fruit rotting, which becomes covered with a grayish, velvety coating. Ring-shaped brown spots form on the stems, causing the unripe ovaries to dry out.

Botrytis appears on leaves as wide, diffuse gray spots. Severe infestations cause elongated spots to form on young shoots, and branches lose their winter hardiness. Gray mold pathogens live in plant debris, in the soil, and on its surface. Outbreaks of the fungus occur during cold and damp seasons, and the main risk is dense plantings, where the disease can affect all bushes in just a week. Treatment:

• The raspberry bushes are regularly thinned out, fallen leaves, weeds and old mulch are removed, and the soil is periodically loosened;
• strawberries and garden strawberries are not planted next to raspberries;
• in cases where the bushes are not severely affected, all diseased branches are cut out, after harvesting, excess and weak shoots are removed to the root and burned;
• Before bud swelling and fruit set, spray with a 3% Bordeaux mixture, and treat the soil between rows and bushes with a 2% Nitrafen solution. During budding and after harvesting, spray the raspberry bushes with colloidal sulfur (100 grams of suspension per bucket of water). Zineb or Albit are also suitable.

In the event of a massive infestation, it will no longer be possible to save the raspberries; the bushes are uprooted and new seedlings are planted elsewhere.

Verticillium wilt (Verticillium wilt)

This disease causes significant losses in raspberry yields. The fungus survives in the soil at a depth of up to 35 cm for about 15 years. It enters through the roots and spreads rapidly throughout the plant. After a cold winter and spring, symptoms are more severe, but the disease reaches its peak (complete shoot death) in hot, dry weather.

The lower leaves are the first to suffer, and this is where the early stages of the disease can be identified. The leaves suddenly turn yellow and immediately fall off. Shoots stop developing, the bark takes on a bluish tint, and the tips of the branches droop, turn yellow, and dry out. The bush itself will die within one or two seasons.

Fungicides are ineffective against verticillium wilt. Soil fumigation (by increasing the pathogen population) produces good results, but this method is very expensive. It's easier to remove damaged bushes and plant raspberries elsewhere. There are no varieties resistant to the fungus, so the main prevention is following proper agricultural practices and purchasing seedlings from reputable nurseries.

Rust

The disease is especially dangerous in regions with humid summers. Rust symptoms are easily visible: small, round, slightly convex, bright orange spots form on the outer surface of the leaves. After a short period of time, these pads develop on the petioles and main veins of the leaf blades. Small gray ulcers with a reddish border appear on one-year-old shoots; these quickly heal, forming longitudinal cracks.

The fungus overwinters on plant debris, and the initial infection occurs in the spring. After a couple of weeks, light orange, then brown, pads form on the undersides of leaves, releasing spores that infect the raspberries during the summer. Under favorable conditions, several generations of the fungus appear over the summer and fall. Dry weather halts the development of rust.

In autumn, the leaves become covered with a dark coating (overwintering spores), dry out, and fall off. The disease negatively impacts the raspberry's resistance to frost, reducing yield. How to treat:

• in the fall, all infected parts of the bush should be cut off and burned;
• leaves can be removed from the raspberry patch or shallow digging can be done with the fallen leaves being incorporated; the soil microflora destroys the spores in 30–35 days;
• In the spring, raspberry beds are mulched with manure; the microorganisms in it are also capable of destroying rust spores;
• In case of severe damage to bushes before bud break, the spraying procedure (3% Bordeaux mixture) is combined with fertilizing with 2% potassium salt.

In the summer (before fruit set), several more sprayings are carried out with a weaker solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Didymella (Purple Spot)

The initial stage of the disease is characterized by the appearance of fuzzy spots at the base of shoots. Initially, they are uniform and greenish-yellow, then turn brown, and the central part becomes covered with small dark spots. The following spring, the spots lighten. On leaves, Didymella appears as large necrotic spots.

Infections appear on petioles and fruiting branches, ringing the shoots and causing the berries to dry out. Covering scales appear on the buds, and a significant portion of the buds freeze over the winter.

The fungus overwinters in the tissues of affected plant parts, and spores are dispersed in the spring and summer. Purple spot primarily affects diseased, weakened plants, such as those damaged by gall midges. The disease is more prevalent in wet weather, and dense raspberry plantings are considered particularly dangerous. How to combat the disease:

• when the buds begin to swell, the bushes are sprayed with a 3% solution of Nitrafen or a 4% mixture of Bordeaux mixture;
• Before flowering and after the complete harvest, raspberries are treated with 1% Bordeaux mixture or Phthalan (see the concentration on the packaging).

Branches showing signs of critical damage are cut out and removed from the raspberry patch along with fallen leaves.

Septoria (White spot)

The first symptoms become noticeable in early summer: round, brown spots appear on the leaves. Over time, the centers of the spots lighten and develop black dots (pycnidia). The affected areas of the leaf partially disintegrate; over time, the spots fuse together, and the leaves dry out and fall off.

Septoria leaf spot develops rapidly throughout the raspberry growing season. The disease spreads rapidly, facilitated by high humidity and moderate temperatures. Leaves dry out en masse, fall off, and cracks form on shoots and branches. Plants lose winter hardiness, and yields are significantly reduced. The fungus overwinters on affected parts of the bush and on plant debris. Control methods:

• in the fall, all branches where lesions were observed on the leaves are cut off at the root, the leaves are collected and burned, and weakened shoots are also removed;
• Two weeks before the onset of frost and in early spring, spray the bushes with Zineb, and treat the spaces between the rows with Nitrafen (2%). For pre-flowering and post-harvest spraying, use a 3% Bordeaux mixture or Albit; check with the retailer for the correct concentration.

Fungal spores can live for up to two years, but may not show any symptoms. Affected bushes should never be propagated.

Canker spot

A common problem that occurs in older plantings or with inadequate care. Longitudinal brown spots appear at the base of young shoots, which eventually turn gray, crack, and peel. The following year, the spots expand, encircling the shoots. During the fruiting season, the young shoots dry out. Flower twigs can also be affected, turning brown and drying out.

Pycnidia overwinter in infected stems, with primary infection of healthy tissue occurring in the spring. In cold, rainy summers, the fungus spreads rapidly, causing particular damage to weak bushes or those infested with pests. How to treat raspberries:

• After harvesting, pruning is carried out. Dry weather is chosen for this procedure, with two-year-old shoots being removed first, as well as weak and any damaged branches.
• In early spring, raspberry bushes are treated with a 2% Bordeaux mixture. Subsequent treatments are carried out during and immediately after flowering, using products such as Impact, Fundazol, or Topsin, following the instructions. Once all the berries have been picked, the raspberries are sprayed with Cuprocin (0.4%).

When purchasing seedlings, carefully inspect the stems for peeling areas; infected planting material is quite common at spontaneous markets.

Powdery mildew

The fungus appears on the tips of shoots, leaves, and berries. A light gray, web-like coating forms on the affected parts. On leaves, lesions appear on both sides, and the berries appear dusted with flour. Active disease development occurs in the summer, when favorable conditions include heat and high humidity.

Shoots slow growth, some plants dry out, yields drop significantly, and the remaining fruits become smaller, deformed, lose flavor, develop an unpleasant odor, and are unfit for consumption. Treatment and prevention:

• In autumn, the leaves are removed, affected branches do not need to be completely uprooted, cutting off only the diseased parts of the stem is acceptable;
• The bushes must be thinned out, nitrogen-containing fertilizers are applied in moderation, with the main emphasis on mineral complexes and organic matter;
• Before flowering and after harvesting, raspberries are sprayed with 1% colloidal sulfur.

All fungal diseases thrive in a humid environment. Raspberry bushes should be planted in sunny areas with light, permeable soil. Otherwise, fungal prevention consists of following all agricultural practices. In most cases, chemical treatments are essential, and traditional methods of control provide short-term results.

Bacterial diseases

Another common group of raspberry diseases is not extensive, but the ailments are found everywhere, in any climate zone of Russia and other countries.

Root cancer

The disease is commonly known as "root goiter." Favorable conditions for the development of root canker include dry weather and long-term cultivation of raspberries in the same location. Tumors, the size of a walnut or sometimes larger, form on the rhizomes and small roots at the base of shoots. The growths have a bumpy surface, are brown on the outside, and light-colored and very dense inside. The bacteria quickly spread from one plant to another, but they do not persist in the soil for long; they are destroyed by antagonist microbes within one or two years.

In soil with an acidic pH of 5, the cancer stops developing. However, under the influence of plant activity, it quickly regenerates and becomes more aggressive, causing rapid, widespread damage to raspberry bushes. In acidic soils, the bacteria dies. The cancer penetrates stems and roots through various wounds.

Diseased plants slow down in growth, roots barely develop, leaves turn yellow and fall prematurely, and berries become small and dry out. Yield, frost resistance, and disease resistance are significantly reduced. How to protect raspberries:

• There are no varieties resistant to root cancer. When purchasing planting material, carefully inspect the roots and bases of the stems; even small, atypical growths can be a sign of damage;
• If the plants are not treated, the bacteria accumulate in the soil; pathogenicity can be reduced by planting legumes and cereal crops between the rows;
• If old bushes are affected, they are uprooted and discarded. Young plants can still be saved. They are dug up, the tumors are cut off, treated with copper sulfate, and replanted.

There are no treatments for the disease. To prevent the disease, raspberries should be fed with phosphorus-potassium and organic fertilizers in a timely manner, and watered during particularly dry periods. Raspberry bushes should not be planted in areas where crops that leach the soil were grown.

Stem cancer

The disease causes general stunting of the bush; bacteria attack the stems and branches of the raspberry plant. White, ridge-like growths form on them, which later turn brown and become hard. The disease also affects leaves, peduncles, and flowers. Sometimes the growths encircle the stems, but typically only affect the lower and middle parts. In the spring, the affected buds swell, become loose, and die. Cancerous tumors eventually rupture the stem.

In high humidity, the lesions quickly decompose, forming a viscous, slimy mass that coats the stem. Bacteria develop inside the branches, and the lesions are often more extensive than apparent from external signs. The disease is active throughout the summer and fall, overwintering in the stems but can also survive in the soil. The disease is transmitted by planting material and spreads very quickly.

As with root canker, there are no chemical treatments for this disease; preventative measures are crucial. Affected bushes are uprooted, even if the bacteria are at a mild stage. If the infection is severe, replant the raspberries in a different area with healthy soil. When preparing the soil for planting, enrich it with manure. The crop can be replanted in the same location no sooner than three years later.

Raspberry pests

Pests often cause significant damage to raspberry plants, especially if treatments are not carried out promptly. These insects carry diseases, and their activity damages the bushes, making them an easy entry point for viruses, bacteria, and fungi.

Stem and shoot gall midge

The pest is also known as the raspberry midge due to its obvious resemblance. Gall midges damage berries and young stems, causing premature yellowing and leaf drop. This significantly reduces the plant's yield and immunity.

The larvae form ring-shaped swellings or growths (galls) on the stems; the outer tissue becomes rough and cracked, while the inner tissue turns into dust. These growths are most often observed at the base of the shoots; the stems become brittle and easily break off. Rarely, galls form in groups of 5 or 7, spaced closely together. If you break a branch at the site of the swelling, you may discover a small, mobile, yellow-green larva.

At a certain stage of development, the worms emerge from the galls and burrow into the soil, where they pupate and overwinter. The insect's flight begins in May, when the soil warms to 13 degrees Celsius. The female lays eggs in cracks and other damaged areas of the bark, and she can produce several generations throughout the season. How to get rid of the insect:

• During the growing season, raspberry bushes are inspected for swelling, the affected areas are carefully opened with a knife and the larva is removed or the stem is cut off at the root;
• In the spring, before the buds swell, the raspberry bush is treated with a 3% Bordeaux mixture; this procedure will serve as a preventative measure against didimella. It has been observed that on bushes affected by the fungus, the gall midge is particularly virulent;
• Nitrogen fertilizers should be applied in moderation; uncontrolled feeding leads to excessive growth and cracking of the bark;
• In autumn, the soil around the bushes is dug up and mulched with peat (layer up to 15 cm).

Chemical treatments do not produce good results, since the pest operates in the stems. For additional protection, in early spring, trim the buds that form at a height of up to 80 cm from the ground; when the shoots grow a little, cut off all the leaves at the base of the lower green branches.

The stem gall midge attacks young raspberry shoots, not fruiting stems. Galls appear on the side of the shoots as small, irregular, brown bumps with a smooth or slightly rough surface. Several larvae live inside the swelling, where they pupate and overwinter.

Small, brown-backed, transparent-winged midges fly at night. Raspberry canopy swellings can be detected from August to November. Control of stem gall midges is the same as control of shoot midges. Onions and garlic planted around the perimeter of raspberry bushes have been found to repel the insects. Throughout the season, the bushes can be sprayed with infusions and strong decoctions of wormwood or walnut leaves; the midges dislike their aroma.

Stem fly

The main damage is caused by the larvae, which look like small white worms. Adults lay eggs in the upper rosettes of leaves; the hatched larvae burrow into young shoots and feed on the tender tissue, moving downward. External signs include the shoot tip wilting, blackening, and rotting; a longitudinal cut of the twig reveals the pest itself and its burrows.

When the bushes begin to bloom, the larva burrows into the soil and pupates there. In early spring, a small fly emerges with a thin, elongated, segmented body and translucent white-and-black wings. Early summer coincides with the growth of new shoots. How to get rid of the insect and prevent it:

• Before the beginning of summer, young plants are treated with Actellic or Iskra;
• in autumn the soil around the bushes is dug up;
• In the spring, check the condition of young shoots. Signs of fly infestation include stunted growth of the upper portion of green twigs, shortened growth points, and cessation of growth. If such specimens are detected, gradually prune them from top to bottom, remove the entire section of the branch containing the larval tunnels, and immediately remove plant debris away from the garden.

If the infestation is severe, the bushes are uprooted and the soil dug up. Folk remedies for stem fly control are very ineffective.

Shoot aphid

Adults are winged; in the early stages of development, they are wingless. The body is up to 2 mm long, light green, and matte. The eggs are very small, black, and shiny. They overwinter near buds. In the spring, as soon as warm weather sets in, the larvae hatch and move to young leaves, feeding on their sap.

During the growing season, several generations of raspberry aphids are produced. Leaves affected by the pest gradually turn brown, and the insects migrate to other branches and root shoots. The aphid's activity results in leaf curling, twisted, and poorly developed shoots. Annual growth is reduced, internodes are significantly shortened, flowers on weakened shoots dry out and fall off, and yield and plant immunity are reduced. Heat and drought are favorable conditions for the propagation of shoot aphids. How to fight:

• Before the buds begin to swell, the raspberry bush is generously sprayed with the insecticide Preparation 30, it is designed to destroy wintering insect eggs;
• if the population is small, the tops of the shoots with aphid colonies are cut off and burned;
• During flowering, the bushes are treated with infusions of tobacco, yarrow, or chamomile. The amounts of ingredients can be adjusted, but the main thing is that the finished solutions have a strong odor. To enhance the effect, soap is added to the infusions before spraying.
• as soon as the first individuals become visible, the raspberry patch is treated with an infusion of green soap - 30 grams per liter of water;
• In case of severe damage, the bushes can be treated with Kinmix, but only before flowering and after picking the berries.

Aphids don't appear spontaneously, or they rarely do; they're usually brought in by ants. Inspect your raspberry patch for anthills, find their tunnels, and try to get rid of the ants first.

Raspberry and strawberry weevil

The first weevils appear in early spring, feeding on young leaves, leaving tiny holes in them. When the plant produces flowers, the female weevils lay a single egg at the base of the buds. In total, the insect lays about 100 clutches. The larvae burrow into the buds, eating them from the inside out, causing the flower to darken, dry up, and fall off. If you break one of these buds, you'll find a small white worm with a yellow head lodged inside.

The larvae pupate in fallen flowers, emerging in mid-June as a small black beetle with an elongated snout. The pest will produce 2 or 3 generations throughout the season, the first two feeding on leaves, stems, and flowers. Prevention and treatment:

• If the raspberry patch is small, then in early spring, when the snow has not yet melted, the beds are watered with boiling water. This procedure will not harm the roots, but will destroy some of the wintering pupae;
• before flowering and after fruiting, the bushes are treated with Karbofos (50 grams per bucket of water), you can use Iskra, Confidor or Actellic;
• During flowering and fruit setting, raspberries are sprayed with a strong decoction of tansy, soda (2 tablespoons per bucket of water) or a solution of mustard powder - a tablespoon per 10 liters of water.

The pest overwinters in fallen leaves, which are removed from the area in the fall.

Raspberry beetle

Many have observed a rather unpleasant phenomenon: white worms in raspberries. The culprit is the raspberry beetle, which inhabits the raspberry bushes year-round. In the spring, the insects feed on weed pollen, and in May, before the raspberries begin to bloom, the beetles migrate to the raspberries. The pest lays eggs on young berries, and as the fruit ripens, the larvae also develop. The berries become deformed, small, and rot.

Mature larvae enter the soil at the end of August, pupate, and overwinter at a depth of up to 30 cm. The insect lays up to 40 eggs per season and can damage up to 15% of the crop, so control should begin as early as possible.

What to do:

• In spring, when buds open, spray the bushes with potassium permanganate (0.5 grams per bucket of water). Before flowering, use INTA-VIR. As soon as buds appear, treat with Fitoverm or Iskra.
• During the formation of buds, some gardeners collect the beetles by hand and destroy them; the favorable time for this procedure is considered to be the morning, when the individuals are still inactive;
• During budding, flowering, and fruit set, you can repel the beetle by treating the bushes with a strong infusion of flowering tansy. Add half a bucket of the herb to water, boil for about 20 minutes, and strain. Dilute one liter of the infusion in 9 liters of water.

To prevent weeds, loosen the soil in the raspberry patch in the spring and fall. Weeds are removed throughout the season, and onions and garlic are planted around the raspberry beds. Wood ash is added during digging or loosening, at a rate of one cup per square meter.

Glass-box

The raspberry glassworm looks like a small, blue-black butterfly with a slender body and yellow stripes. Its flight begins in June–July, with females laying eggs in the soil around raspberry shoots or at the base of stems. The larvae burrow into the branches, creating tunnels and feeding on their flesh. The worms can climb up the stem or descend to the roots.

Small swellings form at the site of damage. The pest causes raspberry stems to become brittle and stop growing, sometimes causing the bush to wither and dry out. Adult caterpillars are white with a yellow head and thoracic plates, reaching 30 mm in length. The pest overwinters in stems or on roots. How to get rid of the glassworm:

• If possible, avoid mechanical damage to the bark of raspberry stems and weed promptly. Inspect the bushes periodically; the glassworm leaves behind bumps on the branches. Affected bushes, weak, dry stems, and stems that have not borne fruit should be cut off at the root and burned.
• The soil should be loosened periodically from May to July. Before bud break, raspberries are treated with Karbofos (60 grams per 10 liters of water). As soon as the first leaves begin to appear, the bushes can be sprayed again with a 3% Bordeaux mixture.

The glassworm is rarely seen in well-tended raspberry patches. This pest has many insect enemies that must be protected. To avoid destroying the raspberry's natural protectors, follow proper agricultural practices and use chemicals as a last resort.

Ticks

One of the most common raspberry pests is the spider mite, which causes significant damage to crops from spring to late fall. These tiny arachnids can be brown, milky, light yellow, or pale green. At any stage of raspberry development, the mites inhabit the undersides of leaves, feeding on their sap and covering these areas with a web. The upper surface becomes rough, and the bites become ulcerated.

Mites first appear between the veins of the leaves. In advanced cases, they spread throughout the entire bush, covering it in a continuous web. The plant stops growing. How to combat it:

• Ticks are not insects, meaning traditional insecticides are ineffective against them. Acaricidal and insectoacaricidal agents are used for treatment, such as Fufanon, Acrex, Actellic, and Antio. Biological preparations such as Akarin, Bitoxibacillin, and Fitoverm can also be used.
• treatments can be carried out before the fruit sets and after harvesting, chemical agents are alternated, mites quickly develop immunity to them;
• Among the effective folk remedies, we note garlic infusion: 150 grams of crushed garlic is poured into a liter of water, covered, and left to steep for 5 days. The resulting concentrate is diluted with water (5 ml per liter of water);
• If the mite is affecting young raspberry shoots, soak a cotton ball in rubbing alcohol and gently wipe the stems and leaves.

If desired, you can prepare an onion or garlic infusion (20 grams of chopped vegetables per liter of warm water, steep for 2 hours). This treatment is continued throughout the season. Without proper agricultural practices, you won't get rid of the pest.

Raspberry sawfly and yellow-winged sawfly

Sawflies destroy up to 60% of raspberry leaves. The insects produce three generations during the entire growing season, each taking 35 days to fully develop. Species:

1. The wood sawfly is a hymenopteran insect with transparent wings. The larvae have eight pairs of legs, a green body with a dark line down the back, and a yellow-green head and thorax. The larvae burrow into the undersides of leaves.
2. The yellow-winged sawfly is no more than 8 mm long when mature, with a blackish-blue head and thorax and a yellowish-brown abdomen. The wings are transparent, yellowish at the base, brown in the middle, and darker toward the tip. The larvae are green with a yellowish head.

The larva, or false caterpillar, eats away at leaf blades, creating holes in them. Sometimes the leaves are eaten away from the edges, and in severe cases, they are skeletonized. They generally leave young leaves alone, feeding on mature ones. The caterpillars overwinter in cocoons in fallen leaves. The insect begins to fly in mid-May. Severe sawfly infestations of raspberries sharply reduce yield and winter hardiness, and shoots rarely form axillary buds for the following year's harvest.

After harvesting and before berry set, spray with pesticides such as Karbofos, Kinmiks, Fufanon, Confidor, and Fosbecid. Particular attention is paid to thinning the raspberries, removing weeds, fallen leaves, and old mulch. Before wintering, the soil is loosened. In the summer, when chemical treatments are not possible, caterpillars are collected by hand; in hot weather, they can hide on the undersides of leaves.

Raspberry nutcracker

The insect is no more than 3 mm long with a black, thin body. The larva is white, legless, and up to 1.5 mm long. It feeds on stem tissue, where gall-like growths form. Damaged stems become brittle. The larvae overwinter in the growths, pupate in the spring, and by late May, adults emerge from the pupae. The females lay eggs on young shoots.

How to fight:

• timely pruning of stems with galls (at the root);
• when the buds swell and open, the raspberry bush is sprayed with Kemifos or Fufanon;
• Among folk remedies, dusting with tobacco dust (in May and June) gives good results.

To avoid confusing the gall wasp with other insects, the galls are opened and the larvae are examined.

owl

Several species of cutworms attack raspberries, all feeding on the berries and leaves of the plant. Let's focus on the most common species—the golden raspberry cutworm. This nocturnal moth has a wingspan of up to 3.5 cm. The caterpillars are grayish-brown with a white line down their back and gray lateral stripes. The caterpillars feed and develop in May, overwintering in plant debris and soil. The pest's activity leads to reduced yields and stunted shoot growth due to improper nutrient distribution.

When the leaves emerge, spray raspberry bushes with Kemifos, Actellic, or Fufanon; this treatment can be repeated until buds appear. In the fall, remove all plant debris and loosen the soil.

Fruit vine

The weevil is up to 9 mm long, its body covered in light, yellow, shiny scales and fine hairs; the beetle itself is black. The larvae are thick, dense, white, curved, and have a yellowish head. They feed on the sap of grass roots and live in weeds. The pupae are yellowish, with clearly visible legs, wings, and proboscis. The beetles emerge in early spring, gnawing on leaf buds and rudiments. The weevil is polyphagous and very voracious.

The pest can be controlled with the same products used to combat cutworms, but Actellic produces the best results. The first treatment is carried out before the buds swell, the second when the young leaves emerge, the third before flowering, and the last after harvest. As a preventative measure, all weeds are removed not only in the raspberry patch but also around it.

Raspberry flea beetle

The insect is a small, black, blue-tinted, jumping beetle. It causes damage in early spring, gnawing out small areas on young leaves, leaving behind tiny ulcers. As the offspring emerge, the beetles move on to them. Flea beetles overwinter under plant debris and in construction debris.

The pest is especially active and voracious in dry, hot weather. During years of mass reproduction, colonies can significantly weaken fruiting branches, which inevitably affects crop yields. The period of greatest infestation occurs in the last month of spring and the beginning of the summer season, with the second generation emerging in mid-July. Control measures:

• in spring the bushes are treated with Fufanon;
• in case of severe damage during the period of budding and ripening of berries, you will have to sacrifice the harvest and repeat the spraying;
• Good results are achieved with intestinal poisons - treatment (before the buds open) with 0.15% Paris green mixed with 0.2% potassium arsenate.

To prevent problems, keep the raspberry patch clean, remove weeds promptly, and remove all trash.

Hidden-headed two-spotted

A small beetle with a thick, short, stocky body. Its black head, with a steep forehead, is retracted into the cervical shield. The elytra are black with a wide, orange transverse spot at the tips. The beetle feeds from May to June, gnawing at young leaves. Control measures include manual collection and destruction of the beetle, as well as preventative and eradicative chemical treatments. Actellic and Fufanon are used against the scaly-headed beetle. Sprays are applied before and immediately after bud break, and also after all the berries have been picked.

Let's reiterate, the appearance of raspberry diseases is often closely linked to pest activity, and insects especially favor neglected areas. Therefore, don't skimp on your raspberry patch; keep the area clean. If a problem does arise, address it immediately; it will be easier to recognize and eradicate it.