Features and rules for planting apple trees in autumn in central Russia

The apple tree is the most common fruit tree in central Russia. Gardeners typically plant it in the fall. In the temperate climate of Central Russia, with snowy winters and light frosts, seedlings have time to take root before the cold weather sets in. Favorable planting days are chosen after the leaves have fallen. Then, with proper care, the young apple tree successfully survives the winter and begins to grow in the spring.

Features of autumn planting

In central Russia, apple tree seedlings can be planted in either fall or spring. Experienced gardeners prefer the former option, as it requires less maintenance. Before winter, the fruit tree is watered several times if the autumn is dry. During rainy weather, there is no need for watering. This frees up time for other tasks.

The benefits of planting apple trees in the fall include:

1. A wide selection of seedlings of various varieties is available from nurseries and private sellers. It's easy to find an apple tree adapted to the local climate and with a good yield.
2. High plant survival rate. Saplings sold in the fall are dormant. All biological processes are suspended. These trees successfully survive transplantation and quickly adapt to their new location.
3. After harvesting, gardeners have a lot of free time. Therefore, they can choose the most suitable site for growing apple trees and carefully prepare it for the upcoming planting.
4. Early awakening in spring. Autumn-planted seedlings no longer waste time adapting and rooting. Once the air warms to 4°C, active sap flow and accelerated growth of the fruit tree begins.

Planting fruit trees in the fall has its drawbacks:

1. There's a high risk of damage to trunks by rodents and hares. In winter, when food is limited, the animals gnaw at the bark of young trees. Therefore, plants require protection with roofing felt or special mesh.
2. Determining the optimal planting time is difficult. Plants planted too late don't have time to establish roots before frost sets in. Planting too early increases the risk of bud break and foliage growth if warm weather persists for a long time in the fall. In both cases, the tree dies in winter.

Selecting a variety

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The European part of Russia has a temperate continental climate. Due to its remoteness from the sea, there are large annual temperature variations. In the central part of the country, winters are long and moderately cold. Summers are short and warm, and in some regions, even hot. During the long spring, recurrent frosts often occur. Autumns are long and rainy. For cultivation in this climate, regionalized varieties with different growing seasons are selected.

High-yielding winter varieties for Central Russia:

1. The Bogatyr variety produces flat-round fruits weighing up to 200 g. Fully ripened apples turn yellow with a slight red blush. They have firm, moderately juicy flesh, sweet with a slight tartness. The fruits fully ripen in mid-December.
2. The "Vityaz" variety produces medium-sized, round-conical fruits. They are covered with a smooth, cream-colored skin with red stripes. The fruits can be stored until May without losing their flavor or appearance.
3. The Antey variety produces large fruits weighing over 200 g. The apples are covered in green skin. The greenish flesh has a sweet and sour taste and a delicate aroma. The first harvest occurs in the third year after planting. The apples retain their flavor until May.

Autumn apples ripen from late August until mid-October. The harvest has a long shelf life and is suitable for sale and processing. The best varieties in this group are:

1. The 'Northern Sinap' variety produces medium-sized, round-conical apples weighing up to 130 g. The apples have green skin with a reddish-brown blush. The flesh is juicy and sweet with a slight tartness. Fruiting begins five years after planting.
2. The Borovinka variety produces medium-sized, round apples weighing up to 90 g. They have smooth, light-green skin with pink stripes. The juicy flesh is tart. The first harvest is 4 years after planting.
3. The American-bred Idared variety produces medium-sized, round fruits weighing up to 190 g. The apples are covered with a thin, smooth, light-green skin. The dense, juicy flesh is creamy in color and has a sweet and sour taste. The fruits have a shelf life of 6 months.

Summer varieties are grown for fresh consumption. The fruits of these apple trees ripen early. They are not suitable for processing and have a short shelf life. The best summer varieties are:

1. The "White Filling" variety ripens in August. The round fruits weigh up to 150 grams and have thin, whitish-green skin and tender flesh. Fruiting begins five years after planting.
2. The Papirovka variety ripens in early August. The medium-sized apples reach a weight of 100 g. They have a round-conical shape and a ribbed surface. The fruits have thin, delicate greenish-yellow skin and aromatic, juicy flesh.
3. The "Konfetnoye" variety produces round fruits weighing up to 150 g. They are covered in dark pink skin with a reddish tint. The juicy, creamy flesh has a honey-candy flavor.

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Timing of planting apple trees

In the central part of the region, it's best to plant apple trees in late September or early October. In the southern part of the region, seedlings can be planted in early November, if frost hasn't yet set in. Planting at this time ensures that the trees receive the necessary moisture from rainfall. The plants establish roots well before frost, and begin growing quickly in the spring.

It's best to plan planting immediately after the leaves have fallen. Leaves remaining on the seedling promote rapid moisture evaporation, making rooting difficult. Even frequent watering doesn't improve the situation. The root system doesn't deliver moisture to the upper portion of the plant because it hasn't had time to adapt. It's best to plant the tree during rainy weather. Moist soil allows the plant to adapt more quickly to its new location.

Selecting a seedling

When purchasing a fruit tree, pay attention to its health. Avoid buying seedlings from private sellers. They may be diseased or damaged by insects. It's much safer to buy plants from fruit nurseries.

Plants 1-2 years old are suitable for planting. Carefully inspect the root system. It should be well-developed, free from damage and mold. Excessively long roots can be trimmed before planting. The bark of healthy plants is an even, dark brown color, free from spots and damage. A young tree's crown consists of 4-5 shoots, each with 3-4 buds. The trunk bends slightly at the grafting site, 5 cm from the roots.

If the root system of the seedling is covered, it's impossible to examine it. In this case, to check the quality, grab the plant by the trunk near the root ball and lift it upward. If the soil doesn't crumble, the seedling is good and can be used for planting. If the plant can be easily removed from the ground, it was placed in the container only recently. There's no need to buy such an apple tree.

Site preparation

The site for fall planting and the hole for the seedling are prepared in the spring. The latest preparation time is 2-3 months. The best location for growing an apple tree is a site previously occupied by fruit trees. For tall varieties, choose a site facing north to avoid shading other plantings. If planting an apple orchard near buildings, choose a south-facing site to avoid the walls blocking sunlight.

On hilly terrain, choose a site at an elevated elevation for the seedling. Lowlands tend to accumulate fog and cold air, often causing stagnant moisture. Fruit trees have difficulty growing in such areas. Neutral loamy or sandy loam soil with minimal alkaline or acidic pH is suitable for apple trees.

If the soil characteristics are not optimal, the soil quality can be improved:

• humus, compost, and peat are added to alkaline soil;
• if the acidity is high, add wood ash or dolomite flour;
• heavy soil with a large amount of clay is diluted with river sand;
• Clay is added to sandy soil to improve water retention at the root level.

The selected area is cleared of weeds and dug deeply, removing debris. While digging, fertilizer is added and holes are prepared for planting the seedlings. The holes are dug to the size of the root system, ensuring the plant fits comfortably within the hole with 10-15 cm of space remaining. Before planting bare-root seedlings, a stake is inserted in the center for tying. A 15 cm layer of drainage material is placed at the bottom. Then, fertile soil is added to a third of the hole's height. Before planting, the hole and the excavated soil are covered with black agrotextile to prevent moisture from penetrating.

Landing

For fruit trees with exposed roots, treat them with a rooting stimulant solution for 24 hours. Water the prepared hole generously. Trim the seedling's root system to a length of 25 cm using a clean tool. For disinfection, dust the exposed areas with crushed activated carbon. Form a mound in the hole to position the seedling at the desired height. Place the plant on the mound, facing south of the stake, and spread the roots.

Fill the empty space in the hole with fertile soil, gently shaking the plant to fill all the voids. Then compact the soil. Make a small mound around the perimeter of the hole. Pour 20-30 liters of water into it. Once the moisture has been absorbed, mulch the area around the trunk with peat, sawdust, and compost. Stake the tree in two places. Remove any remaining leaves from the branches. Cut the shoots back to a quarter of their length. Make the cut diagonally above the buds. Seal the wounds with garden pitch.

If the seedling's root system is closed, planting is easier. This type of plant doesn't require a stake. The tree will stand upright thanks to its root ball. Soaking before planting is not necessary. To facilitate removal from the container, water the apple tree an hour before planting. Leave the bottom of the hole level. Adjust its level so that the seedling is flush with the soil surface after installation. Fill the remaining space with soil. After planting, water the plant and mulch the area around the trunk as usual.

If the appropriate planting deadline is missed, postpone the procedure until spring. Planting in freezing temperatures is dangerous. It won't have time to root and will inevitably die in winter. To preserve the planting material, dig a trench the length of the seedling, running north to south. Line the bottom with fallen leaves.

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The plant is wrapped in burlap. The tree is positioned so that the roots are facing north and below the top. The plant is covered with a mixture of soil and peat, leaving the tips of the shoots exposed. This area is then covered with leaves and sawdust, and covered with pine branches. In the spring, after the snow melts, the seedlings are removed and planted.

Post-planting care

Apple trees planted in the fall require virtually no care. The plant doesn't need any fertilizer during this period. All fertilizer was added during the planting hole preparation. Watering is also unnecessary if the fall is rainy. In dry weather, the first watering should be done only after a week, using a large amount of water from a watering can. Subsequently, reduce the frequency of watering and the amount of water used. Too much water can cause root rot.

A first-year tree must be protected for the winter. To do this, place peat and fallen leaves around the trunk. When temperatures reach stable below freezing, wrap the trunk with roofing felt to protect it from hares and mice. For the same purpose, lay pieces of rubber hose near the tree. Their smell repels rodents. The area around the trunk is mulched with pine branches to retain snow.

Possible errors

Avoid using mature plants older than three years for planting. Compared to young seedlings, they root less well and adapt poorly to a new location. Avoid adding large amounts of mineral fertilizers and organic matter to the hole. They can create an aggressive environment in the root zone, which destroys beneficial microflora. Avoid adding fresh manure to the hole during planting. As it decomposes, it releases hazardous substances that inhibit the root system.

Don't dig the soil immediately before planting. Unsettled soil causes the root collar to sink underground. This hinders the young tree's development, increasing the risk of its death. There's no need to buy seedlings in advance. Plants purchased during the planting season have already entered dormancy and will survive the winter successfully.

Autumn planting of apple trees This process is successful if the timing is right. Then, with proper care, the tree survives its first winter and begins to grow vigorously in the spring. Within a few years, the young apple tree bears its first fruit.