Characteristics and description of the "Giant Yellow" pepper

Sweet pepper varieties vary in color, size, flavor, and yield. The name "Giant Yellow" speaks for itself. This bright, sunny-hued hybrid is highly prized for its flavor and nutritional value.

Note! Yellow peppers contain very little carotenoids and lycopene. Their benefits are evident due to the presence of pectin and vitamins B and C. Yellow peppers are also rich in iron and potassium.

Where is Giant Yellow used?

Purpose: universal.

This pepper has thick, strong walls and very large fruits. These firm peppers are ideal for stuffing. The dish will turn out beautifully, and the portions will be generous.

Sliced ​​peppers are added to fresh salads and preserves. Sweet peppers are often used in side dishes, stews, soups, lecho, and ketchup.

A beautiful yellow pepper will enhance any dish. It can be baked, grilled, fried, boiled, stewed, marinated, used as a pie filling, or frozen for long-term storage.

Note! Sweet peppers are best eaten fresh, in salads and sliced. Cooking reduces the amount of nutrients by 70%.

Description of the Yellow Giant pepper

1. The bushes are spreading and densely foliated. The plant height reaches 80-110 cm.
2. The hybrid is considered early ripening.
3. Growing is possible in a greenhouse and open ground.
4. Fruits weigh up to 250-300 g. Pepper wall thickness up to 12 mm.
5. The pulp of the peppers is very sweet and juicy, dense, with a characteristic pleasant fragrant aroma.
6. Productivity – up to 5 kg from each square meter of beds.

Note! Bushes must be tied to supports.

Agricultural technology

Yellow Giant pepper seeds germinate at temperatures between 25 and 28°C. It typically takes two weeks from sowing to germination.

The seedlings can be transplanted into the ground when they have 10 true leaves and a stem approximately 20 cm tall. The approximate age of seedlings suitable for planting in the ground is 55-60 days.

The optimal time for transplanting seedlings:

• in the greenhouse - mid-May;
• open ground – mid-June.

Planting of seedlings can only be done after the last night frosts have passed.

"Yellow Giant" is planted in beds with a spacing of 70x40 or 90x50 cm. Avoid planting too densely, as this will prevent the plants from developing well.

Growing pepper seedlings

Growing peppers in a "snail" has proven itself to be a successful method. You'll need:

• sharp knife;
• Laminate underlay. Not foil-coated. Thickness 2 mm;
• Soil. Either store-bought substrate or a mixture of garden soil and humus;
• tweezers;
• polyethylene packaging bags;
• rubber bands or tape;
• spray bottle and syringe;
• the container in which the "snail" will stand.

Since the Yellow Giant is a hybrid, seeds from last year's harvest are not collected; they are purchased from the store each time.

Important! Monitor the quality of seeds, their expiration dates, and request certificates from sellers.

1. Underlayments are usually sold in large rolls. To use, use a knife to cut the roll into strips 10-14 cm wide.
2. Place one end of the tape on a flat, hard surface covered with newspaper or plastic film. Don't trim the backing yet.
3. A two-centimeter layer of soil is poured onto the edge of the substrate and lightly pressed down with your hand.
4. Pepper seeds are taken one by one with tweezers and placed on the soil, 2 cm from the edge of the substrate. The distance between seeds should be no less than 2 cm, but no more than 10 cm. The laid seeds are lightly pressed into the soil with a finger.
5. The edge of the backing is rolled up, creating a tight, even roll. Any excess backing is trimmed with a knife.
6. The "snail" is secured with an elastic band or a strip of tape.
7. The “snail” is placed vertically and covered with soil on top without compacting it.
8. Place the “snail” in a previously prepared container and water it generously from above using a spray bottle or syringe.
9. Next, place a plastic bag over the "snail" and secure it with a rubber band. The greenhouse effect is necessary for faster seed germination.
10. Place the "snail" in a warm spot and wait until the first green shoots emerge from the soil. Then, remove the bag and move the seedlings to the windowsill.

Pepper seedlings don't need any additional feeding. It's best to water them through the tray.

Pepper seedlings are transplanted into "diapers." You'll need 22x32 cm plastic bags, rubber bands, and soil.

Take the "snail", remove the elastic band, and unfold the edge by 10-15 cm. There is no need to unfold the entire snail.

Place a bag on the work surface. Pour two handfuls of soil into the center of the bag and compact it lightly with your hand.

Strong, healthy shoots are selected from the unfolded edge of the "snail." Weak plants are best discarded immediately. The seedlings, along with the root ball, are transferred to the "diaper" and covered with another handful of soil.

Begin rolling the "diaper." If the seedlings are small, you'll first need to fold the bottom of the bag over, then roll the loose edges into a roll. If the pepper seedlings are already large, it's best not to fold the bottom edge of the bag over, only the loose edges. Secure the finished "diapers" with a rubber band and place them tightly next to each other in the box.

Two weeks before planting in the ground, harden off the seedlings by briefly placing them in a greenhouse, on an open window, or on a balcony. Hardened seedlings take root better in the garden bed and grow stronger.

Planting seedlings in the ground

Step 1. Preparing the bed.

If peppers are to be grown outdoors, it's best to plant them in a sunny spot. Avoid growing peppers where tomatoes, potatoes, or eggplants were previously grown. It's best to grow peppers after cabbage, peas, pumpkin, and root vegetables.

It is necessary to ensure that the air temperature during the day is above +20°C, and at night not below +15°C.

It's important to thoroughly loosen the soil in the bed with a rake and add organic compost. Water the prepared bed to check for drainage. If the water is absorbed quickly, the drainage is good. If moisture stagnates in the bed, add more compost and repeat the loosening process.

Step 2. Preparing the holes.

The holes should be deep enough to accommodate the seedling and its root ball. It's best to arrange the holes in two rows, staggered, to ensure the plants receive sufficient light and air.

One liter of mullein solution is poured into each hole (0.5 liters per ten-liter bucket, the mixture is heated to 35°C).

Step 3. Planting seedlings in holes.

The seedlings are removed from the "diapers" or "snails" (if they haven't been pricked out yet) along with the root ball and transferred to the prepared hole. Soil is added around the roots, immediately watered, and compacted. If the soil has settled too much, add a little more soil.

Plant care

Pepper is a heat-loving plant and requires watering.

How to water peppers correctly?

1. Peppers need to be watered several times a week. If the weather is very hot and dry, it's best to water them daily.
2. It is best to water peppers in the morning rather than in the evening, so that the water is absorbed throughout the day and the risk of mold and rot is minimized.
3. Water should be applied to the soil around the stem. Avoid pouring water onto the pepper leaves, especially if they're growing outdoors, to avoid burning them.
4. To maintain optimal soil moisture, it is recommended to mulch the beds with hay or mown grass.

It is advisable to loosen the soil around the plants more often and remove weeds in a timely manner.

How to fight pests?

It's important to constantly monitor your plants to ensure they are free of aphids and midges. To combat pests, use a soap solution (5 grams of finely ground laundry soap per liter of water, let the solution steep for 5 hours, and then strain) to wipe the foliage and stems.

How to fertilize plants?

Plants respond well to potassium and phosphorus added to the soil, but do not tolerate chlorine-containing fertilizers very well.

The rules for feeding plants are as follows:

• Peppers grown outdoors are fertilized every two weeks, alternating organic and mineral fertilizers. Greenhouse peppers are fertilized every 15-20 days.
• Before applying fertilizer, the soil is watered generously;
• the fertilizer is diluted in warm, settled water;
• After applying fertilizer, the soil is loosened.

Important! Avoid applying too much nitrogen fertilizer, otherwise plants will begin to grow excessive green mass, and yields will decrease.

First feeding During the flowering period, add 5 g of superphosphate and 10 g of urea to a ten-liter bucket of water. Apply the mixture to the roots at a rate of one liter per plant.

Second feeding During the period of ovary formation. For fertilization, use an aqueous solution of mullein at a ratio of 1:10 or bird droppings at a ratio of 1:15 (infuse for 5 days).

You can use a "herbal tea." Nettles and dandelions, without roots or seeds, are crushed and placed in a barrel. Add a bucket of mullein and a cup of ash, fill to the top with water, and close the lid. The "aromatic" mixture will be ready for use in a week. Pour 1-2 liters of liquid under each plant.

Third feeding This is necessary during the fruit ripening period. Mix two teaspoons of superphosphate and potassium salt in a ten-liter bucket of water. Pour 1 liter of the solution under each stem.

How to tie up peppers?

Peppers require staking. For this purpose, we recommend constructing a mini-trellis using 40x40 mm beams and galvanized reinforcing mesh with 50x50 mm mesh.

The beams need to be sawed into one-and-a-half-meter-long pieces, and the mesh should be cut with metal shears into 30x50 cm pieces. The bottom of the beams should be trimmed with an axe and sharpened so that they fit well into the ground.

You can attach the mesh to the bars with knitting wire or staples.

Note! Treating the wood with a wood preservative will extend the life of your mini trellis.

The finished structures are driven in with a sledgehammer near the plant's roots. As the pepper grows, it is tied to the netting with soft ropes.

Reviews

Albina, Alekseevka

I grew "Yellow Giant" for the first time, and I'm very pleased with the results. I planted the seedlings in a greenhouse in early June and fertilized them with a mullein solution. Around the end of July, the first ripe peppers appeared. They are very large and have a truly delicious flavor.

Galina, Golubitskaya

These peppers have very thick walls, are juicy, and delicious. Although I'm not a fan of hybrids, I grow the "Yellow Giant" for its large harvest. My greenhouse plants produced fruit until almost the end of September, but the yield gradually decreased. I recommend the "Yellow Giant" to everyone; I'll be growing it myself next summer.