Transplanting grapes to a new location: how and when is it best to transplant

Grapes are vigorous plants with well-developed roots, making them difficult to transplant. Therefore, they are planted early, with the intention of leaving them undisturbed. However, there are situations when transplanting is necessary.

In this case, it is necessary to carry out this complex procedure correctly in order not to lose the plant.

Why are grapes replanted?

Grapes are replanted if, for example, a site has been redeveloped, or if the vine has grown too large and is beginning to claim new territory. Another reason for moving the plant to a new location may be poor growth (perhaps it lacks light and warmth, or the soil composition is unsuitable).

Experts recommend replanting only young grapevines, no more than five years old. One-year-old vines establish themselves most quickly in their new permanent home. It's not advisable to disturb older plants. There's a high risk of damaging the roots during digging, which could result in the death of the plant.

Choosing a location

The vineyard site is prepared a season in advance. A well-drained, wind-free location is chosen, preferably with a southwest exposure. Although many claim that grapes are undemanding regarding soil composition, they grow best in light loam and black soil, and dislike clay soils and saline soils. They also do poorly on sandstone. It is also important that groundwater flows at least two meters below the soil surface.

When planning your garden, keep in mind that grapes require plenty of space. Avoid planting them near other tall crops, as this will compete for nutrients.

Transplant timing

Many gardeners wonder: when is the best time to transplant grapes? The answer lies in the plant's biological characteristics. The plant's root system never goes dormant. Even in winter, when the above-ground portions are dormant, the roots continue to grow. But only if the deep soil is warm and moist. This can occur in both spring and fall. Therefore, grapes can be transplanted when the soil warms above 8°C (46°F) and in the fall, when the stems enter dormancy and the plant begins to devote all its energy to intensive root growth.

However, another factor should be considered: the region's climate. If you live in the north of the country, where winters are long and frosty, the ground freezes quickly, preventing root development. This means that if you replant a grapevine in the fall, it won't have time to establish itself before the frost sets in, as the roots will stop growing and the plant won't receive nutrients. Therefore, for northern regions, as well as central Russia, replanting grapes is preferable in the spring. Some people believe this should be done as early as possible, as early as March. But this isn't entirely true.

Remember, even if it's warm, it doesn't mean the soil has warmed up thoroughly. Replanting should only be done when the soil temperature reaches at least 10 degrees Celsius. For the Urals, this is mid-May to early June. for the Moscow region And middle zone – mid-April.

In southern regions, it's preferable to replant grapevines in the fall. This is because replanting at other times (for example, in spring or summer) can cause the vine to fail due to intense heat and water shortages. The optimal time for this procedure is mid-October.

Specifics of autumn transplantation

Transplanting grapes to a new location In the fall, replanting should only be done after all the leaves have fallen. This is when the dormant phase begins, and the growing season ends. However, this only applies to the upper part of the plant, while the roots continue to develop. If the fall is warm (or the vineyard is located in the southern part of the country), replanting can take place until early November. However, don't delay too long: the grapes need to be replanted at least two weeks before the onset of sustained cold weather. If you plant them later, the plant will most likely die.

Spring replanting: basic rules

In spring, all plant care begins before the sap begins to flow and the buds awaken. However, it's also important to consider the soil's readiness for "work." Repotting too early is not a good idea—in cold soil, the roots won't have time to awaken and begin feeding the plant's above-ground organs, which could cause the plant to die. In most cases, you have to create the right conditions for the seedlings to take root yourself: before planting, water the soil with hot water to warm it up. After planting, cover the stems with cool soil to prevent the sun's heat from awakening the buds prematurely.

For spring planting of grape vines, planting holes are prepared in the fall. An 80-centimeter hole is dug for each seedling and filled with organic fertilizer (humus, compost). Then, the hole is half-filled with fertile soil. In the spring, when planting, a layer of soil mixture consisting of leaf mold, peat, and mineral fertilizer is added to the bottom of the hole. In the spring, the seedlings take root quickly, and by summer, the first lateral shoots and lush, bright green leaves appear.

Summer transplant

For summer planting, prepare the planting holes in the same way as in the fall. They are dug a month before planting. A fertile soil mixture is also prepared, which will be used to fill the seedlings. Since in There is a lack of moisture in the summer period, the soil should be watered generously before planting. Immediately after transplanting, the area should be covered with compost or straw to prevent the roots from becoming dehydrated while they establish themselves. After transplanting, the seedlings should be shaded to prevent excessive UV exposure. Avoid planting grapes close to tall fruit trees and shrubs.

Transplanting grapes of different ages

Grapes of varying ages have their own biological characteristics that must be taken into account when replanting. Here are some guidelines for replanting grapes based on their age:

1. Annual grape. Cuttings are used to propagate grapes.– small branches that are planted in a nursery for rooting. By the end of the season, the cuttings develop a weak root system and 2-4 green shoots. Rooted cuttings are transplanted to their permanent location in spring or fall. They have a very high survival rate.
2. A two-year-old grapevine. The plant is a fairly young sapling with a well-developed root system and stems. Grape seedlings usually transplant to a new location without problems. The main thing is to prune the shoots, leaving one or two buds on the stems. These will eventually produce shoots that will form the main branches of the bush.
3. Three-year-old grapevine. This is a fairly mature plant with long, woody branches and strong, developed roots that extend deep into the ground. Fruiting grapevines are replanted in the fall. The shoots should be pruned back to four buds, as the roots will not be able to immediately feed the rapidly growing plant.
4. A four- to five-year-old grapevine. A mature plant that is very difficult to dig up, as the roots can go up to 100 centimeters underground. Carefully dig up the bush, removing the entire root system and the root ball. The shoots are shortened to 4-6 buds.
5. The grapevine is over five years old. This is an old plant that doesn't handle well. Therefore, before replanting it, consider whether it's worth touching at all. Firstly, digging up the root system without damaging it is practically impossible. Secondly, the above-ground part has already grown too much and will have to be completely removed. It's best to propagate this type of grapevine using layering or cuttings.

How to transplant grapes

This crop can be transplanted to a new growing location without losing its varietal characteristics. Various parts of the plant are used for this purpose.

Transplantation by layering

Old grapevines can be used to produce new fruit-bearing plants. This propagation method is considered the most accessible and effective.

Technique of grape propagation by layering:

1. As “raw material”, a long, two-year-old, developed shoot with buds is selected.
2. The shoot is placed in a shallow narrow groove and covered with a layer of earth on top.
3. The planting is watered generously.
4. Over the summer, the buds on the vine will sprout. The shoot will develop its own root system.

Grapevines can be replanted in the fall. To do this, the cuttings are separated from the parent plant and planted as separate plants.

You can use not only whole vines but also short green shoots as cuttings. The method involves bending the ends of these shoots to the ground and burying them, securely tying the branches to prevent them from popping out. By autumn, the ends will have developed roots, and then the branches can be cut from the mother plant. Replanting the rooted cuttings can be done in the fall.

Planting cuttings

The cuttings are cut from a single, long, young (one-year-old) vine. It's important that each cutting has 2-3 buds. One end of the cutting is inserted into a moist, loose rooting medium.

After a few weeks, the first leaves emerge from the buds. This means the root system has formed. The cuttings are then transplanted into a nursery (a separate bed). There they will grow until the following season. They can be grown in a greenhouse or indoors. When the seedlings are one year old, they are moved to their permanent location. Immediately after transplanting, they are protected from sunlight. If planted in spring, they will be well established by fall and will produce their first harvest the following year.

Katavlak

A variation of rooting by layering. This method is used to rejuvenate old vines or when a vineyard needs to be thickened. For this, the woody vines of an old grapevine are completely buried in the ground. Roots will grow from the dormant buds of the branches over the course of several years.

Katavlak can be done in several ways. The vines can be laid in a single line, on top of each other, or in different directions. In any case, the procedure involves fertilizing with humus and mineral compounds. The vines are laid in deep furrows on a fertile, well-fertilized layer of soil. In certain places, the tips of young vines are brought to the surface – these will be the main component of the renewed bush. From the buds that remain above the ground, strong fruiting shoots will grow in subsequent years. These will produce a new harvest as early as the second year of planting.

How to transplant grapes in the fall

The replanting process requires extensive preparation. Planting holes are dug in advance, and the plant itself is prepped.

Preparing grapes

Before digging up the plants, their above-ground portions are pruned. Long shoots (vines) are trimmed completely. The prepared bushes have two short young branches, each with 2-3 buds. The tops of the shoots themselves are also pruned, and the cuts are treated with garden pitch or crushed charcoal.

Three to four days before digging, water the soil generously. This will make it easier to remove the bush without damaging the roots, and will also ensure that the moist root ball adheres securely to the roots. In young bushes, the root ball diameter is approximately 30 centimeters, while in older bushes, it's 45-50 centimeters. This is the distance from the base of the stem where you should begin digging. Dig around the plants from various directions so that you can then use the spade blades to scoop up the roots and pull them to the surface without damaging them. If replanting with a root ball, trim any roots protruding beyond the root ball, and place the plant on a flat surface (plywood or a shovel). To prevent the root ball from collapsing, carefully wrap it in some material.

Preparing planting holes

The size of the hole depends on the maturity of the grapevine. If it's relatively young and the roots haven't spread too far, the hole depth can be 50-60 centimeters. A mature vine is planted in a hole 100 centimeters deep. The depth of the hole also depends on the soil composition. If the soil is loose and fertile, the roots will grow quickly vertically. In dense soil, they have a harder time developing, so it's best to dig a larger hole to give them room to grow. Furthermore, a drainage layer is essential in clay soils.

The distance between bushes should be at least two meters. To fill the bushes, prepare a soil mixture consisting of turf, peat, ash, and phosphorus fertilizer. River sand is added to clay soil.

How to properly dig up bushes

There are three ways to transplant grapes:

• with a lump of earth;
• with partially exposed roots;
• with an open root system.

Transplanting with a lump of earth

Transplanting is preferable because it leaves the root system intact. Furthermore, the roots take root more quickly in their new location, even without any additional treatments.

Transplantation technology:

1. The hole is half filled with earth.
2. The plant is not watered for a couple of days before digging, so that the root ball does not fall apart.
3. The root ball together with the roots is inserted into the hole.
4. The roots are watered with a root formation stimulator (Kornevin, Heteroauxin).
5. All the voids around the root ball are filled with fertile soil, compacting each layer.
6. Having completely covered the roots, a tree trunk circle is formed.
7. The area is watered generously so that the added soil adheres to the lump.

Transplanting grapes with semi-exposed roots or a completely open root system

Sometimes, during digging, the root ball partially or completely disintegrates. This happens if the soil was too dry or the root system had spread too far in different directions and the soil couldn't "envelop" it. If large chunks of dry soil remain attached to some of the roots, it's best to remove them by gently tapping them with a stick to break them up.

Transplantation technology:

1. For an open root system, the hole depth should not be too large.
2. Before planting, the roots are soaked in a growth stimulant. They are disinfected in a potassium permanganate solution. They are dipped in a clay-manure slurry to ensure they are moist when they touch the soil.
3. If the roots have dried out, they are shortened a little.
4. A small mound is made at the bottom of the hole, onto which the bush is placed. The roots are spread along the slopes of the mound, so that their ends point downward.
5. The holes are filled with soil mixture, gently shaking the plant so that the voids are filled with soil.
6. After filling the bush, water it. If planting in spring, mulch the area around the trunk.

Caring for grapes after transplanting

Care for transplanted grapes depends on the time of transplantation. Autumn plantings be sure to cover for the winterA weakened plant requires reliable protection from frost. Covering involves covering the base of the bushes and the surrounding tree trunks with soil or straw (sawdust, peat). The tops are covered with Ultrasil. To prevent the fragile seedlings from breaking under the weight of the non-woven material, a frame is installed over them and wrapped in agrofibre. Grass or hay can be added on top.

In the spring, the covering is removed gradually. First, the base of the bush is exposed, and only then, after a few days, the stems. The bushes are protected from harsh sunlight for a couple of weeks, as this, combined with frost, can cause burns. It's preferable to stretch a protective awning over the bushes. With the arrival of warmer weather, the plants will "wake up," sap flow will begin, and buds will swell. The appearance of the first leaves will indicate that the grape vines have taken root. During this period, it's important to fertilize with nitrogen fertilizers, which will stimulate the seedlings to develop foliage. Subsequent vineyard maintenance consists of traditional agricultural practices, including irrigation, trimming, pest control.

When planting grapes in summer, the plants are immediately mulched to protect the soil from excessive moisture evaporation. If grapes are replanted in the springIf the soil contains sufficient moisture for normal plant development, the vineyard won't need to be watered too frequently. Ideally, water the plants every 10 days. When planted in summer, seedlings should be watered more frequently, every 6-7 days. Established bushes are watered infrequently but thoroughly, directly at the base of the bush. It's best to install a drip irrigation system or small furrows around the bushes to deliver moisture directly to the roots. Water consumption per plant is approximately 20 liters. During flowering and fruit ripening, watering is stopped to prevent cracking. The last watering is done in August. If autumn rainfall is low, a moisture-replenishing irrigation is carried out in October.

Fertilizing of summer plantings is carried out in autumnThis is necessary to increase plant resilience during the winter. Nitrogen fertilizers are avoided this time, as the plants must go dormant and cease growing. The application of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and ash will help increase the chances of survival. Grapes respond well to foliar feeding. complex mineral fertilizersAnd organic mulch (compost, humus) will help strengthen the stems and increase the rate of shoot growth.

When planting in the fall, spray with insecticides in the spring. This is necessary to kill insect pests that have overwintered in the soil and begin to crawl onto young grape stems as the weather warms. For protection, before diseases or insects have had time to penetrate the canopy, it's sufficient to treat the vines with contact insecticides and fungicides.

Common mistakes when transplanting grapes

Many gardeners fail to replant successfully. Even successfully grown cuttings and seedlings suddenly lose their healthy appearance after transplantation, stop growing, dry out, and die. This is mainly due to improper preparation of the planting material or delayed planting.

Main mistakes:

1. Severe pruningWhen replanting, it's recommended to trim the roots. However, if you leave only young, green roots at the base of the vine, removing the middle and heel roots, they won't be able to handle the load. A weak root system can't properly nourish the above-ground portion, which causes it to stop developing, and the vine won't take root. Remember, you only need to trim the roots slightly to help them connect to the soil more quickly.
2. Replanting old vines. Grapes in their first three years of life thrive. With each passing year, their regenerative abilities decline. Grapes older than five years fail to thrive in 99% of cases. Therefore, only young, healthy vines should be selected for replanting.
3. Improperly timed transplants. If you mistime the transplant and transplant it much earlier or later than the plant's dormancy period or its awakening, the chances of survival drop dramatically. It's important to time the transplant: in the fall, grapevines should be transplanted 2-3 weeks before the onset of cold weather, and in the spring, no later than the start of sap flow.
4. Unsuitable location for transplanting. If grapes are planted in a plot where this crop has already been grown, the soil in that area is very depleted. Furthermore, the soil may contain pathogens of grape diseases or pests that will happily begin devouring their new prey. Experts recommend planting grape seedlings in a new area where this crop has never grown before.

Conclusion

Not every gardener can risk replanting a vineyard, as it's a labor-intensive and time-consuming process that requires specific viticultural knowledge. If the vines aren't causing any problems and are growing well in their current location, we recommend leaving them alone—let them thrive and produce a bountiful harvest. However, if replanting is a necessary measure, it's essential to thoroughly research the matter before taking on the task. Only a thoughtful and thorough approach to replanting vines will help keep them healthy, strong, and productive even after transplantation.