The tomatoes are blooming, but there are no ovaries. What should I do?

Gardeners often worry: their tomatoes are blooming, but there are no ovaries. What should they do? Their concern is understandable—they've fussed over and nurtured the seedlings, grown them, provided them with all the necessary conditions, and planted beautiful, healthy plants in a greenhouse or in the open ground. They're eagerly awaiting the harvest, peering at the blooming clusters every time, but there are still no fruits. How frustrating—what could be the problem, new gardeners fret. And more experienced gardeners share their secrets and advise what to do in such a situation. Read also: tomatoes from low-growing varieties They are best suited for open ground.

Why aren't the fruits setting?

There can be many reasons, ranging from low or high temperatures, humidity, over- or under-fertilization, and fertilizers, to name a few. Let's take a closer look at the causes of fruit drop or failure to set at all, and how to eliminate these factors to ensure a long-awaited harvest.

Temperature

If the weather hasn't settled yet and the nighttime temperature drops below 15 degrees Celsius, you won't get a harvest. This is because tomatoes produce pollen at night, and bees flock to the flowers in the morning to pollinate them. At low temperatures, flowering stops, and if the temperature drops below 10 degrees Celsius, the plant will stop growing altogether. If tomatoes are too cold, they may bloom without setting fruit.

How to help: If your tomatoes are in a greenhouse, you can warm them up in a variety of ways. Besides heating, if the temperature difference is only a few degrees, you can bring in bottles or jugs of hot water overnight. They will release heat overnight, keeping your tomatoes comfortable and improving fruit set. You can continue this process until the air is warm at night, which is comfortable for the tomatoes. If your plants are in the open ground and there's no way to insulate them, the only option is to wait for warmer weather, and then everything will start growing.

Humidity

The second important factor, especially if the plants are in a greenhouse, is humidity. Both high and low humidity are detrimental to tomatoes.

How to helpTo increase the humidity in the greenhouse, you can spray the tomatoes in the morning. To reduce it, ventilate the greenhouse thoroughly. If you're planting in high-humidity regions, it's best to mulch the tomatoes and plant plastic bottles with holes in them near the plants, providing drip irrigation directly into the soil and down to the roots.

Nitrogen - excess or deficiency

Excess nitrogen is immediately noticeable—the plants are vigorous, plump, and have dense green foliage. They seem like beauties! But no, such bushes produce few flowers, and fruit is even less likely to delight a gardener's heart. If the bush is overfed from too much nitrogen, water it with an ash solution and dilute the nitrogen with other minerals. Find out. What is the best way to feed tomatoes? in flowering and fruit setting.

If the soil lacks nitrogen, the picture is also not so encouraging. Stems are stunted, clusters develop poorly, and fruit sets poorly. Finding the right balance is essential.
Poor fruit set can also be caused by strong winds, diseases, poor watering, insufficient light and excess boron.

What to do if the fruits are not set, what to feed?

Boric acid solutions can increase fruit set; you can spray the plants a couple of times every few days. In a greenhouse, shaking—tapping the plants—is effective. This helps release pollen and deposit it on the pistil. Tomatoes are self-pollinating, so help them with this. Just do this carefully, gently, and in sunny weather. Also, apply a yeast fertilizer; tomatoes also love it. Spray some yeast mash on the plants, and if the weather is good and the humidity is adequate, your tomatoes will delight you with a harvest.

If you grow potatoes in addition to tomatoes, you might find this useful: Planting potatoes under straw growwise-en.techinfus.com.