What to do if tomatoes are getting fat in a greenhouse

Numerous articles have already been written about tomato fattening, but it's still worth addressing again. Inexperienced vegetable growers often encounter this problem when growing tomatoes.

Plants suddenly begin to grow vegetative mass without limit, spreading their powerful leaves in all directions, showing no sign of setting fruit. On overfed bushes, flower clusters form very slowly, bearing few flowers that are not particularly viable. Under these circumstances, it's easy to be left with no harvest at all, or one that doesn't meet expectations.

Description of the fatliquoring process

This phenomenon in tomatoes is most common when grown indoors. While the plants appear perfectly healthy, their growth is stunted. Their leaves become large and dense, often curling. The stems and foliage become intensely green.

Unlike the leaves, the flower clusters appear damaged. The number of flowers on them is minimal, and they don't always produce fruit.

Experts use the term "fattening" to describe the abnormal development of tomatoes, which is manifested by the following symptoms:

• rapid growth of leaves and stems;
• formation of a large number of stepsons;
• formation of an extremely strong root system;
• tomato stems are significantly thicker than usual;
• the leaves change their traditional color to intense green;
• outgrowth of a flower brush;
• absence of fruits or their delayed formation;
• the appearance of curled leaves at the top of the plant.

There's no tangible benefit to be expected from fattening tomatoes, but there are plenty of downsides to this phenomenon:

• Expensive seeds, fertilizers and chemicals are used for cultivation;
• they uselessly take up space in the greenhouse and garden bed;
• time is wasted caring for them;
• there is no harvest or it is insignificant;
• the quality of the fruit is below normal;
• the monetary costs are not recouped by the harvest.

Reasons for fattening tomatoes

All changes that occur in tomatoes during the growing season always have a cause. This includes fattening. It's worth noting that indeterminate tomato varieties, which have long stems with multiple shoots, are prone to excessive growth of excess green mass. These varieties are typically grown in greenhouses, where they are artificially shaped.

Determinate varieties are less demanding in terms of training, as their bushes have a limited height. They devote most of their nutrition to fruit set and filling, rather than to vegetative growth. The low stems of determinate tomatoes allow moisture to evaporate from the soil, so they overgrow less frequently.

Too much fertilizer

This is one of the main reasons for rapid growth of side shoots and poor fruit set. It occurs due to an overdose of fertilizers in the soil, such as:

• humus;
• compost;
• mineral fertilizers containing nitrogen.

Moreover, both root and foliar feeding with organic and mineral fertilizers containing nitrogen can cause fattening. The use of highly concentrated nutrient solutions also contributes to fattening. Plants overfed with nitrogen direct all their nutrition to the growth and development of shoots, leaves, and roots, while buds, flowers, and ovaries are left starved.

High air humidity

The microclimate experienced by tomatoes during the growing season can also cause fattening. Tomatoes thrive at a relative humidity of 65-75 percent. When humidity exceeds these limits, conditions are created for fattening.

Lack of light

Tomatoes require a certain level of light for normal growth and fruiting. If they don't receive enough light, they may become overweight. Plants may not receive enough light for a number of reasons:

• mistakes when choosing a location for building a greenhouse or creating a garden bed;
• planting tomatoes without taking into account the recommended schemes;
• neglect of bush formation;
• a large number of cloudy days per year;
• lack of artificial lighting for tomatoes.

High planting density

Planting tomatoes in overly dense patterns restricts air circulation in the root zone, leading to increased humidity. This creates ideal conditions for tomato rot. This is especially true for indeterminate tomato varieties, whose bushes grow very tall and shade each other.

Not the optimal temperature

It has been established that low temperatures above zero most often lead to fattening of tomatoes. However, temperatures above the optimal range for tomatoes can also cause fattening. To prevent this undesirable phenomenon, it is important to maintain the optimal temperature for tomatoes not only during the day but also at night. Ideally, the temperature in your greenhouse should be maintained at 22-26 degrees Celsius during the day and 5-7 degrees Celsius lower at night.

Preventing Tomatoes from Getting Fatty

Preventing fattening in tomatoes is only relevant when they are already overweight and effective measures need to be taken to address it. This also applies to normally developed tomatoes, when we want to implement a range of preventative measures to avoid potential fattening. Effective measures have been developed for both cases.

Fight against fattening

If you encounter tomato fattening on your plot, you must immediately begin to combat this phenomenon by carrying out the measures indicated below.

Topping

If a flower cluster produces numerous shoots, pinch off the top cluster, leaving 3-4 well-developed ovaries. This will reduce the number of fruits, but at least they will ripen in time and not fall off during the growing season.

Suspension of watering

This is the first step to fertilizing tomatoes. Tomatoes grown in a greenhouse or garden bed should not be watered for a week.

Leaf removal

After suspending watering, you should simultaneously begin trimming away any excess leaves that are blocking adequate light from reaching the plants. Leaves that shade flower clusters and developing buds should be removed without fail. To avoid stressing the plants, it is recommended to remove no more than two leaves per plant at a time.

Air temperature regulation

If greenhouse tomatoes are overgrown due to low temperatures, close the greenhouse and stop ventilation. In very hot weather, it's recommended to keep the greenhouse vents open.

Top dressing with phosphorus fertilizers

To do this work, you first need to prepare an extract of superphosphate according to the following recipe:

• take a bucket and pour 400 g of superphosphate into it;
• pour 3 liters of boiling water over the fertilizer;
• Place the bucket in a warm, secluded place;
• stir the mixture from time to time;
• The drug becomes ready after 24 hours.

Before use, dilute the concentrate with water at a rate of 150 ml per bucket of water. A small amount of ash can be added if desired.

Ban on the application of nitrogen fertilizers

On tomatoes susceptible to fattening, it is prohibited to use nitrogen fertilizers of any form and by any method.

Hand pollination

To improve fruit set, manual pollination is recommended twice daily. This is done by shaking the bushes, and in greenhouses, tapping the horizontal wire trellises with a stick can improve pollination. Instead of these steps, you can install a beehive in the greenhouse or garden and let beneficial insects pollinate the tomato flowers.

By following the above steps, you can hope to correct the current negative situation.

Prevention of fattening

Nitrogen fertilizers and overly fertilized soil are usually the culprits behind tomato plant overgrowth. By taking this and other points noted below into account, you can avoid this undesirable process.

Choosing the right variety

You can protect your tomatoes from becoming overripe by planting a determinate tomato variety with a shortened flower cluster. These tomatoes rarely become overripe.

Bush formation

Correct and timely plant shaping with the removal of excess shoots and leaves, especially on indeterminate tomatoes, is also a preventative measure against fattening.

Planting diagram

When planting tomato seedlings in their permanent location, strictly adhere to the recommended planting pattern. Otherwise, the planting density will be higher than optimal, causing problems with ventilation and, as a result, increased humidity, which will also lead to overcrowding.

Fertilizer system

Careful consideration should be given to the timing and method of applying fertilizers to the crop. Nitrogen-containing fertilizers should be discontinued promptly, and nitrogen fertilizers should not be applied in excess. Ash infusion should be used for top dressing.

Stimulation of flowering

The flowering process can be stimulated with yeast, ash, or boric acid. Special stimulants such as Zircon, which are commercially available, can also be used for this purpose.

Watering regime

It's also crucial to maintain a proper watering schedule for tomatoes to avoid overwatering. Water them no more than twice a week, and even less frequently as they enter the flowering phase. It's even better to set up a drip irrigation system and mulch the soil surface. This will ensure optimal moisture levels for both the soil and the air.

Creation comfortable conditions

To achieve this, select a sunny location for tomatoes in the garden. It should be slightly breezy. A ventilation system should be installed in the greenhouse.

Reviews from gardeners

Numerous reviews from vegetable growers indicate that tomato fattening can be combated and still achieve the desired results. Early intervention and preventative measures can help prevent the process and yield a decent harvest of vitamin-rich produce.

Saveliy, 44 years old:

"I'd like to share some of the methods I use to prevent tomato plants from becoming overfed. They're not complicated and can be used in any region. I use monopotassium phosphate in my tomato beds. I apply fertilizer to the roots and also spray it on the leaves. If the plant has a lot of leaves, I pluck some of them off. My soil is black soil, so I don't use organic matter in the spring. I remove excess nitrogen from the soil with sawdust mulch, which I add in the spring and then dig the soil over in the fall."

Larisa, 38 years old:

"Last year, my tomato plants went wild and started to get fat. It got so bad that it was hard to tell the difference between the stems and the side shoots. An experienced neighbor advised me to dilute the superphosphate and apply a root dressing. I did just that, feeding the plants twice over the course of two weeks. I also trimmed off excess leaves so they wouldn't shade the flower clusters and ripening fruit. The plants recovered and returned to their normal appearance. The tomato harvest was also healthy."

Mikhail, 49 years old

"I'd like to share my personal experience of preventing tomato overgrowth. As soon as I notice the tomatoes in my garden becoming overgrown, I create an artificial stress environment for them. I drastically reduce the amount of watering. When exposed to unfavorable growing conditions, the plants begin to reproduce. They re-establish flower clusters and produce fruit. While reducing watering, I also removed three large, old leaves in three passes. These measures helped me get a good harvest."

To avoid crop losses due to tomato overgrowth, study the experience of others and apply all recommendations. Choose varieties that are not prone to overgrowth, such as those with short clusters or any determinate variety. Provide the right conditions during the growing season, and you'll get the desired yield.