How and when is the best time to plant a columnar apple tree in the fall: instructions for beginners

Columnar apple trees are characterized by their relatively small size and compact crown. Fruit trees can be grown in any region of Russia, provided they are grown in designated varieties. Columnar apple trees can be planted in the fall and winter. When determining the timing of planting, consider the variety, region, and weather conditions.

Differences between columnar apple trees and ordinary ones

Columnar trees are not hybrids; the species developed through natural mutation. The apple tree has few lateral branches, requiring minimal space and producing a good harvest. The tree has a central conductor from which branches emerge at an acute angle. The fruit ripens directly on the trunk; the apples are large and juicy. There are two varieties of columnar trees:

• varieties with the Co gene;
• simple species grafted onto dwarf rootstocks.

Apple tree yield doesn't depend on the height of the central shoot. With proper care, the tree will bear fruit annually, with the number of fruits corresponding to the variety's characteristics. The root system is close to the topsoil, so digging around the trunk circle is done carefully. According to ripening time, early, mid-season, and late varieties are distinguished.

Advantages and features of the new type

Miniature trees can help create a unique landscape design in your garden. Advantages of columnar varieties:

• fruiting occurs 3-4 years after planting;
• space saving – fruit trees are compact and take up little space;
• the fight against diseases and pests, pruning, and fertilizing is simplified;
• no special equipment is required for harvesting.

Disadvantages include a short fruiting period (10-15 years) and special care requirements. The tree requires frequent watering and minimal pruning. The plant's root system is underdeveloped and poorly absorbs water. To prevent the apple tree from breaking in strong gusts of wind, it must be supported. It is impossible to graft a columnar tree from a standard one, as the rootstocks are not suitable.

Preparatory work before planting

Apple trees can be grown outdoors, in a greenhouse, or in a container. The planting date is determined by weather conditions—the tree needs 25-30 days to establish itself. During the adaptation period, there should be no sudden temperature fluctuations or frosts. In central Russia, planting takes place in late September or early October. In the south, columnar trees are planted from the middle of the second month of autumn, and in the Urals, in early September.

Selection of material

The climate varies significantly across Russia, so it's recommended to select varieties suitable for specific regions for planting. The plant should be resistant to fungal diseases and subzero winter temperatures. Guidelines for selecting seedlings:

• To acquire a quality specimen, it is better to buy apple trees from nurseries;
• annual plants take root faster;
• shoots and root system must be strong and healthy;
• If you buy a tree in a container, you don't have to rush with planting.

Bare-root apple trees are planted within 24 hours of purchase. The roots are immersed in water before planting. When purchasing apple trees, choose varieties that are resistant to disease and natural stress. Popular productive columnar varieties include Triumph, Dzhin, Yantarnoye Orelyushie, and President. The varieties Krestyanin, Barguzin, and Vasyugan are suitable for growing in Siberia.

Planting technology

It's best to plant a columnar apple tree in the fall in a site free from drafts and strong winds. Trees thrive in loamy and sandy loam soils. It's not recommended to plant apple trees in low-lying areas with low groundwater levels or on infertile soils. Before planting, dig the soil and prepare a hole. Planting instructions vary depending on soil type:

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• on clay soils, dig a hole 1-1.2 m deep, and make drainage at the bottom from crushed stone and broken glass to prevent liquid stagnation;
• if the soil is sandy, sprinkle silt at the bottom;
• If the area has a high groundwater level, planting is carried out on slate.

Planting seedlings in the ground

To ensure the tree's successful establishment, treat the root system with Kornevin two days before planting. Follow the step-by-step instructions:

1. Prepare the hole 2-3 weeks before planting. Add fertilizer to the bottom: 0.4 kg of wood ash, 0.08 kg each of potassium and superphosphate, and 4 kg of compost or humus.
2. The plant's roots are placed in a pit, with the root system or grafted site protruding 5-7 cm above ground level. A wooden support is built nearby, buried 0.3-0.5 m into the soil.
3. The soil is compacted and the planting site is watered generously.

According to the instructions, columnar apple trees should be planted in the fall at a distance of 1-1.5 meters. When planting in rows, the distance between trees should be 0.3-0.5 meters. To improve soil fertility, green manure is planted between the rows annually. Plants in their first year of life require weeding, but no further weeding is necessary.

Post-planting care

If you're planting an orchard with many columnar trees, follow a planting pattern, alternating summer- and fall-fruiting plant groups. Avoid dense plantings, as apple trees will grow poorly if they don't receive enough light. To reduce moisture loss, mulch the area around the tree trunks with sawdust or peat.

Watering, loosening

The frequency of watering depends on weather conditions. Apple trees are watered as soon as the moisture dries. A layer of mulch will protect the soil from drying out, and the frequency of watering can be reduced. If the fall is dry, water the plant every 3-5 days. Two weeks before the onset of sustained frost, perform a moisture-recharging watering, applying one bucket of water per seedling. The soil is loosened after each watering—this procedure helps supply the roots with oxygen.

Top dressing

If organic and mineral fertilizers were added at planting, no additional feeding is required during the first year of the plant's life. In subsequent years, the following substances are added to the tree's trunk circle:

• in spring – nitrogen, rotted mullein;
• during the flowering period – nitrophoska, superphosphate;
• after harvesting – wood ash.

In depleted soils, a different fertilizing scheme can be used: during the initial sap flow period – 10 liters of humus; during flowering – 0.3 kg of urea; after fruiting – ammonium nitrate (30 g) or a mixture of superphosphate and potassium. For additional nutrition, foliar feeding is used: scatter 1 cup of wood ash around the perimeter of the crown. The information provided is calculated per fruit tree.

Trimming

A characteristic feature of the columnar apple tree is that it requires minimal pruning. No pruning is necessary during the first year of the plant's life. Beginning in the second year, the crown is shaped by pruning young shoots to two buds. If lateral branches have begun to grow, the longest (20 cm) is left, and the others are shortened. Avoid touching the apical bud, as this will reduce fruit production and may cause the plant to die. Sanitary pruning is recommended in the fall, and formative pruning in the spring.

Shelter for the winter

To ensure the tree is successfully prepared for the winter season, several measures are taken in the fall. Cellophane is spread around the trunk, lichen is removed with a sharp object, and the bark is trimmed if necessary. To protect against sunburn and frost cracks, the trunks are whitewashed with a lime solution (100 g each of lime, wood glue, and 250 g of ferrous sulfate per 5 liters of water).

Winter shelter is necessary to protect the tree from temperature fluctuations, severe frosts, and rodent infestations. The method of sheltering depends on the region where the tree grows. In central Russia, it's sufficient to cover the root system, install supports around it, and wrap them with burlap to prevent the apple tree from breaking in windy weather. The area around the tree trunk is covered with sawdust or peat, and spruce branches are placed on top.

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In the harsh conditions of Siberia and the Urals, trees require multi-layered shelter. A structure of planks is built around the seedling, with compost placed inside. The shelter is wrapped in agrofibre, burlap, or spunbond, alternating layers. In winter, the shelter is generously covered with snow. As spring begins, the covering material is removed in stages.

Common mistakes gardeners make

To get a good harvest of columnar apple trees, avoid common mistakes:

1. Columnar trees are early fruiters; the first ovaries can form as early as the first year of planting. It's best to cut off the flowers so the tree has time to prepare for the new season.
2. Leaves and last year's harvest have not been removed, leaving pests to overwinter there.
3. Using straw as a shelter – the material attracts rodents.
4. Using dense materials that restrict oxygen access to the tree, such as roofing felt or plastic wrap, can prevent the plant from sweating and then freezing as the air temperature rises.
5. Without whitewashing, the apple tree will be unprotected from frost cracks and bark burns during the winter. This treatment is necessary for trees of any variety and age.

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To ensure successful fruit set, several trees are planted nearby. When growing columnar apple trees in containers, care is simplified—for the winter, the tree is moved to a cellar or summer house. To protect the plant from natural stress, autumn maintenance should be completed on time.

If planting deadlines are missed, don't replant hastily—the apple trees won't have time to establish themselves and won't survive the winter. Until spring, the seedlings should be dug into a greenhouse and mulched. If planting techniques and care guidelines are followed, columnar apple trees will establish quickly and survive the winter well.