Planting tomato seedlings in 2021 based on the lunar phases and region

In temperate climates, tomatoes are most often grown from seedlings or in greenhouses to ensure a harvest before the onset of cold weather, as they may not ripen if planted directly outdoors. In warmer climates, it's also preferable to plant established seedlings in the ground, as they withstand harsh weather conditions better than young seedlings. Sowing tomatoes should be done taking into account the variety's characteristics, the climate, and the location where they will be grown (in a greenhouse or in an open garden bed). A gardener's sowing calendar, which includes a table of planting days for each crop, helps determine the timing of tomato planting.

Tomato seedlings – when to plant

Lunar rhythms each influence plants in their own way: some are best planted during the waxing moon, while others thrive during the waning moon. Favorable days for planting tomatoes are during the waxing moon, when it's in Aries and Pisces.

When to plant tomato seedlings in 2021 according to the lunar calendar:

• January – 28, 29;
• February – 1-3, 6, 7, 28, 29;
• March – 4-6, 13, 14, 27, 28;
• April – 1, 2, 4, 6, 10, 18, 19;
• May – 2, 3, 5.

On the days of the Full Moon and New Moon, one day before and one day after, do not plant or dive:

• January – 9-11, 24-26;
• February – 8-10, 22-24;
• March – 8-10, 23-25;
• April – 7-9, 22-24;
• May – 6-8, 21-23.

Region and planting dates

When to start planting tomato seedlings depends directly on the climate and whether they will be grown outdoors or in a greenhouse. If both are grown in open ground and greenhouses, they are planted at different times, choosing appropriate varieties. For example, in temperate climates (a risky farming zone), springs are characterized by frequent frosts and unstable weather, so early planting in a garden can result in frost damage to the seedlings, while greenhouse planting is safe.

Sowing seeds – timing:

• middle zone – last days of February – first days of April;
• regions of Siberia and the Urals – early ripening varieties are planted in late February to mid-March, mid-season varieties in early March to late April, and late varieties in mid-February;
• Altai Krai – March;
• southern regions – end of March – beginning of April;
• St. Petersburg and the region, Moscow region – March, early April.

Seedlings for protected and open ground

Seedlings are planted earlier in protected soil, so when growing indoors, you need to consider these timings and the characteristics of the greenhouse (heated or unheated, film, polycarbonate, with or without lighting). A greenhouse with a polycarbonate covering retains heat better, so tomatoes are planted in it earlier than in a film greenhouse or a hotbed. It's advantageous to plant tomatoes with different ripening times in such greenhouses simultaneously, as they ripen continuously.

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In central Russia and the Leningrad Region, seedlings can be planted in a plastic greenhouse in late April, and in a polycarbonate greenhouse in early April. This means seeds should be sown in late January and mid-January, respectively. In a heated greenhouse, seeds can be planted in March. - Then the tomatoes will ripen until winter. It's convenient to transplant them directly into the garden bed. The ripening period shifts by two weeks in Siberia and the Urals because the warmer weather arrives later.

Early tomato seedlings for open-bed cultivation in temperate climates are planted in mid-March, while mid-season tomato seedlings are planted at the end of the month. Planting early will cause the seedlings to stretch, making adaptation more difficult. Delaying planting will prevent the tomatoes from ripening. In warmer climates, tomatoes can be planted in late April or early May, once temperatures have stabilized.

Sowing seeds in a garden bed

Tomatoes are also grown without seedlings—seeds are sown directly into the garden bed, choosing early and low-growing varieties. The advantages of this method:

• a plant that is not replanted has a stronger root system and a larger volume of green mass;
• development occurs in a natural environment, and there is higher resistance to infections and pest damage;
• there is no risk of black leg disease;
• reduces costs and frees up time for other gardening work.

Tomato seeds are sown in the garden bed after the temperature has stabilized and the soil has warmed. The timing will vary depending on the location. For example, in the Moscow region, this will be after the bird cherry blossoms have bloomed, around May 20th. However, it's essential to provide a shelter to cover the garden bed at night, during strong winds, or in cool weather.

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Rules for growing seedlings

Usually tomato seedlings are grown With subsequent picking to prevent poor germination from affecting the number of seedlings, or you can skip replanting if you plant one seed per cup. However, there's a risk of having to replant due to poor seed quality. The choice of method depends on the availability of seed material, space for the boxes and cups, and budget.

Selection and preparation of seeds

Before purchasing seed material, first decide what the tomatoes are being planted for: obtaining an early harvest without storage, using the tomatoes for food or for preserves, the type of preservation (pickles, marinade, juices, sauces), or long-term storage, because not every variety is suitable for preserves or, for example, for storage.

Very early and early-ripening tomatoes are suitable only for fresh consumption; they don't store well and are not suitable for pickling. Mid-season and late-ripening varieties can be stored and canned. Store-bought seeds should indicate sowing and planting dates on their packaging, so you should follow these instructions and adjust for weather conditions.

Seed preparation – stages:

• If the seeds are from the manufacturer, then there is no need to sort them out; if these are home-prepared seeds, then you need to remove empty and low-quality seeds - soak the seeds in a salt solution (1 teaspoon of salt + 250 ml of water) for 10 minutes, remove any that float to the surface, rinse the rest with clean water and dry;
• disinfect in one of the ways - soak in a pink solution of potassium permanganate for 10 minutes, in a 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide for a third of an hour, or soak in a solution based on aloe juice (1:1) for half an hour;
• After disinfection, rinse the seeds with water and dry;
• Place the seeds in a cloth bag and soak in a growth stimulator (Epin-Extra, Energen Zircon), waiting for the time recommended in the instructions;
• Germination is carried out on a cotton cloth or cotton pad (if you use gauze, the sprouts will get tangled in the loose fabric) - spread the seeds on the cloth, moisten with warm water, cover with a damp cloth, put in a bag and put in a warm (24-20 °C) place;
• After the sprouts appear, plant them in a common container or in individual cups.

Soil preparation

The soil mixture should be nutritious to provide the seedlings with essential macro- and micronutrients. It should also be loose, as heavy soil that doesn't allow moisture and air to pass through well will hinder seedling growth. You can buy it ready-made, or you can make your own, disinfecting it before use by pouring boiling water over it, using a pink solution of potassium permanganate, or placing it in a plastic bag, placing it in a bucket of very hot water, closing the lid, and leaving it to cool.

Potting mix options:

• mullein, garden soil (1 part each) + peat (4 parts) + river sand (1/2 part);
• garden soil, steamed sawdust (1 part each) + mullein, sand (½ part each) + peat (3 parts).

Landing

Once the soil has dried out after cultivation, fill the boxes and cups with it, level the surface to prevent water from pooling in the depressions, and water. Place the seeds in depressions (5-10 mm) or furrows, cover with soil, moisten, construct a cover from film or glass, and place in a warm room, but out of direct sunlight. Care consists of ventilating the greenhouse and moistening the soil. When 2-3 leaves appear, transplant, if necessary.

How to dive:

• water the soil 2-3 days before transplanting;
• remove the seedling using a fork or a pointed stick (a lump of soil should remain on the roots);
• make a hole in the soil and plant the seedling, deepening it to the cotyledon leaves, lightly compact the soil, and water.

Seedlings – how to care for them

Remove the film when uniform germination occurs and move the container to a light source (if the light is insufficient, the seedlings will stretch). Supplemental lighting can help extend the short daylight hours (less than 10 hours).

Care stages:

1. Watering – moderate, at the roots, with settled water heated to room temperature.
2. Seed germination occurs at a temperature that is high for seedlings, so the container is transferred to a room where it is not hot (14-16 °C) for a week, then placed in a permanent place where the daytime temperature is 20-22 °C, and the nighttime temperature is 16-18 °C.
3. 1-2 days after transplanting, spray with a solution of Epin, Zircon (according to the instructions).
4. The first time they are fed with nitroammophoska (1 tbsp. + 10 liters of water, the rate is ½ cup per plant) on the tenth day after picking, the second time - on the tenth day after the first feeding with the same fertilizer, 3-5 days before transplanting into the garden bed they add superphosphate and ash (1 tbsp. each + a bucket of water, the rate is ½ cup per plant).

Mistakes in care

Caring for seedlings is one of the key components of tomato cultivation. Any disruptions to the growing conditions can affect the seedlings, causing them to take longer to adapt to a new location, delaying flowering and fruit ripening, and weakening their immunity.

Possible errors:

• the planting dates for seeds are not respected - if you sow early, the seedlings will stretch out; if you sow late, planting in the ground will be delayed, and the fruits may not ripen;
• soil from a greenhouse or tomato bed is used - it contains pathogens that cause nightshade diseases (the soil must be disinfected, add peat, humus, and sand);
• the temperature regime is disturbed, there is not enough light, the plantings are too dense – the seedlings stretch out and grow frail;
• Excessive soil moisture leads to root rot;
• the container is low, small in volume – there is no room for the roots to develop;
• The seedlings were not hardened off - the plant may get sick after transplanting and will take a long time to get used to the new place.

Tomato seedlings planted at the right time, taking into account the variety, growing goals, and agricultural practices, will grow strong, with a powerful root system and good immunity, which will guarantee a good harvest.