Step-by-step instructions for spring pruning of plum trees

Plum

The plum is a fruit tree with excellent flavor and medicinal qualities. Proper crown formation will yield high-quality fruit in greater quantities. Fruit trees require timely care, which not only ensures a high yield but also prolongs the tree's life. Knowing the basic rules for crown formation will help you grow a long-lived fruit tree that produces abundant fruit.

Pruning plum trees in spring

For beginners, spring pruning of plum trees is a complex process. It's important to start the process early. Typically, by the end of March, there are no more frosts, and buds have not yet appeared on the branches. This is the optimal time for gardening. First, remove branches growing inward from the trunk, as well as any damaged or frozen branches. Last year's branches are shortened by 1/3 of their total length.

Note!

In the southern part, it warms up earlier, so gardening is done in early March. The main thing is that the air temperature does not drop below +10°C.

Spring pruning is necessary when branch forks have formed, causing branches to break. Or when new shoots have begun to emerge, transforming the tree into a large bush.

Spring gardening has its benefits:

The resulting wounds are vulnerable to low temperatures, and in the spring they will have time to heal before frost sets in, and no infectious disease will develop in them.
Before the frost, new healthy branches will have time to form, which will bloom next season.

The diagram for spring pruning of plum trees is provided in the photo.

What tools are needed for pruning?

The tools used for this procedure are well-sharpened and high-quality, so as not to damage the plum. For the job, use:

pruning shears, if the tree is young with branches up to two centimeters in diameter;
a lopper with a long handle, which is used for branches up to 50 mm;
a garden saw of large and small sizes, which is used for dry branches from 50 mm in diameter;
a knife used to remove rough spots and burrs.

Garden knives are curved for ease of use. They can be used to remove branches up to 30 mm thick. Pruning shears or loppers are easier to use. When using a saw, be careful not to bend the branch downward.

Cuts and sawn-off areas are treated with special substances or garden pitch, which can be done in advance. If branches have been attacked by insects or infected with a fungal disease, the cut branches should be burned. This will protect healthy trees from infection.

Among the well-known and popular manufacturers of gardening tools, the following companies are in demand: Gardena, Raco, Samurai, and Fiskar.

What are the types of pruning?

There are four types of pruning, each performed for a specific purpose. These include sanitary, rejuvenating, thinning, and formative pruning. Each type requires a different number of procedures and timing.

Sanitary method

This type of pruning is essential and is performed twice a year: in the spring, before the buds open, and in the fall, after the leaves have fallen. This sanitary procedure is performed to prune dead and broken branches. This method also allows for the pruning of branches that have been affected by fungal or other infestations.

Thinning type

This method is used to thin out trees, removing excess branches and eliminating overcrowding. During this process, all shoots growing incorrectly, either sideways or into the crown, are removed. Also, shoots growing vertically upward (also known as suckers) are pruned.

Rejuvenating type

It's used for pruning and shaping mature plum trees. If the tree has stopped producing abundant fruit, and annual growth has decreased by 15 cm, it's time for rejuvenation pruning. This involves gradually removing old wood and replacing it with new wood. After four years, the crown is completely rejuvenated. This method helps the fruit tree produce more fruit and live longer.

Formative type

Used only for young saplings, it helps shape young plum trees, giving them the desired, correct shape. Crown formation is performed using several crown designs: bowl-shaped, sparsely layered, and pyramidal. The gardener decides which design to choose. It all depends on the tree variety, the regional climate, and the gardener's personal preferences.

Rules and techniques for pruning plums

To properly prune a plum tree in spring, two techniques are used: thinning and shortening.

Note!

When gardening, it's important to hold the tool correctly. Pruning shears or loppers are held with the cutting edge facing the remaining wood. When using a pruning knife, the left hand provides a support and, if the branch is large, a clamp.

The procedure is performed in various ways:

At the bud. This type of cut is used for one-year-old growth. The cut is made at a 45° angle and above the bud. If the cut is too long, cutting the base below the bud, the upper part of the stem will dry out or a weak shoot will emerge from the bud. If the cut is made above the bud, the remaining section of the stump will rot. This method allows the shoot to develop and direct its growth in the right direction.
On the ring. The type of pruning is relevant when removing the entire branch.
On a lateral branch. This method allows you to completely change the direction of growth. A strong, vigorous branch is cut 2 mm above the ring.

Methods to increase fruiting

There are some other ways to regulate the fruiting and growth of fruit trees:

blinding of the kidneys;
breaking off shoots;
changing the angle of inclination of branches.

By blinding buds, a gardener prevents shoots from appearing in unwanted locations. This is done with a pruning knife, which carefully removes unwanted buds. Shoots are removed only when young shoots emerge that have not yet taken root and are weakly attached to the crown. This procedure is performed on both young and mature trees.

Experience shows that inclined branches produce more fruit, while vertical branches grow more upward. Changing the angle of the branches can increase the yield. This can be done by tying the branches to the trunk, securing them with metal staples, or hanging weights.

Processing of cuts

Proper pruning will not cause harm or significant injury to the tree. With small cuts, the open wound heals quickly and requires no treatment. If the branch being cut is large, the cut area will be larger. This is sealed with garden pitch. It contains petrolatum, which has water-repellent properties.

During sanitary pruning, an antiseptic putty is used. It can be used even in cold weather, as it contains a fungicide that doesn't harden like petrolatum-based mixtures.

Acrylic or water-based paint is used to treat the cut surfaces. It prevents fungal spores from penetrating, disinfects, and prevents moisture from evaporating.

Plum pruning depending on the region

Spring pruning is carried out before the growing season begins. Pruning timing varies by region, depending on climate conditions. Pruning is performed when the soil has thawed and the air temperature has warmed to 10°C.

For example, in central Russia (in the Moscow region), rejuvenation and formative pruning are performed in the spring, while sanitary pruning is done at any time. Sanitary pruning is recommended as early as March. This will improve light and air circulation. Summer pruning is done for thinning purposes, removing damaged branches.

As for the northern part of the country (in Siberia or the Urals), it's important to prune before the spring growing season begins. This will give the tree time to recover before winter and withstand any weather conditions.

After pruning, the tree will need two months to fully recover and restore itself. Therefore, it's best to perform the procedure in September to ensure it's done before winter.

Autumn rejuvenating and shaping treatments are performed in regions with warm climates, such as the southern Volga region, the Black Sea region, and Kuban.

Plum pruning patterns for beginners

Plum tree pruning should begin within a year of planting. Full development and shape formation are completed four years after planting. Depending on the plum tree's age, a different approach to this procedure is recommended.

One-year-old

The first step after planting a seedling in the ground is to shape the crown. To do this, prune the tree at a height of 75 cm, leaving four buds at the bottom. The following year, five strong shoots growing in different directions are left, and the rest are removed. Only small branches on the first tier, no longer than 30 cm, are retained. The main shoots chosen initially are pruned to approximately the same height (usually halfway up the top branch). The central branch is shortened, growing 20 cm higher.

Note!

Since the plum is prone to breaking, the shoots that are preserved should grow at an angle of 45° from the crown.

Two-year-old

Two-year-old plum trees are pruned in March. At this time, the second tier begins to form. The main branches are shortened by half or a third. It's important to remember to make the cut near a bud that is turning outward. All incorrectly growing branches that are turned inward are removed. The central shoot is shortened by 40 cm.

Three-year-old tree

In the third year of life, the tree's development continues. The final third tier is completed. The central shoot is shortened again by 50 cm, and the lateral shoots are cut back to 25 cm. Any branches that are growing irregularly or crossing each other are removed. At this stage, crown formation is complete until the plum tree reaches three meters.

Four-year-old plum

This is the last year a fruit tree continues to develop its crown. Pruning procedures are the same as for a three-year-old tree. First, prune the central shoot, then shorten the side shoots. All unnecessary and damaged branches are removed below the ring. A properly formed tree should have up to seven main branches, growing at a 45° angle to the trunk.

Young tree

Even though the tree has already matured, it still requires care and pruning. The following spring, up to 50 cm of the strongest shoot on the second tier of the young plum tree is removed. The remaining shoots are completely pruned. The central shoot is also completely pruned. After these procedures, sanitary pruning is performed.

Mature plum tree

During a single season, a mature plum tree is pruned several times. Sanitary pruning is performed in the spring and fall. Damaged, dried, or infected branches are removed. Branches growing above the crown are replanted onto lateral shoots to prevent the fruit tree from growing taller. Water sprouts and branches growing deep into the crown and intertwining with one another are also removed.

Old Plum

An old plum tree is pruned only if its yield has significantly decreased, and the fruit is growing primarily on the upper part. An old tree is rejuvenated by completely removing old wood. Pruning begins in the spring, removing skeletal branches. New shoots will begin to grow at the cut site, which are pruned in the summer, leaving strong and sturdy ones. The regeneration process is spread out over four years. This will prevent the plum tree from being subjected to severe stress, and after four years, the crown will be overgrown with new shoots.

Columnar

This variety is popular because the tree grows small. This columnar plum tree requires no pruning or crown shaping. Damaged or dead branches should be removed. The main shoot is pruned only if it begins to grow poorly. It is also pruned to maintain its shape. This affects the yield, but if the plums are grown for ornamental purposes, it's not a significant factor.

Note!

If the central shoot is growing well, there's no need to touch it. If you trim it, unwanted side shoots will begin to grow vigorously.

A video with a detailed review and description is provided below:

Care after pruning

Since pruning is stressful for a tree, it's best to endure it with minimal damage. First, cuts with a diameter of 1 cm or more are treated with 1% copper sulfate. This prevents fungal spores from entering the wound. The wounds are then coated with garden pitch or painted. Brilliant green paint is also used as a disinfectant. The pruned branches are burned.

After gardening, it's a good idea to fertilize the tree and mulch the area around the trunk. The following can be used as fertilizer:

10 tbsp. l. superphosphate;
3 buckets of water;
7 tbsp. potassium sulphide or potassium chloride.

The tree is watered with the resulting solution, and the area is mulched with wood shavings or straw. The area around the trunk is loosened to allow the mulch to settle.

Recommendations from experienced gardeners

Experienced gardeners advise beginners to adhere to the pruning and care schedule for fruit trees. It's important not to store damaged branches in the garden but to burn them immediately, regardless of the time of year. This will prevent fungal infections of healthy trees and also prevent pests from infesting the area.