How to Prune Plum Trees in Fall: A Beginner's Guide

The primary purpose of fruit and berry plants is to bear fruit. Pruning plums is essential, as it is one of the most important factors directly affecting the harvest. Pruning in the fall differs from crown management in the spring and summer. To ensure proper care for your planted tree, it's important to understand these factors.

Why do you need to prune a plum tree?

The plum tree is a member of the stone fruit family. Pruning stone fruit trees is a complex process that can lead to plant diseases and even death. Pruning is necessary for:

1. High-quality formation of the crown part of the plant.
2. Removing shoots that thicken the tree.
3. Removal of weak, broken, damaged and “dead” branches.
4. Plant rejuvenation.
5. Elimination of basal shoots.
   

Pruning a fruit tree promotes proper plant development by providing the remaining branches with adequate space and sunlight. As a result, the plant becomes stronger, and diseases are less likely to develop in branches with good oxygen circulation. This inevitably impacts the yield.

The tree's crown is shaped until it's approximately 15 years old, after which dry and diseased branches are pruned, leaving the new shoots alone. This allows the pruned plum to bear fruit well even at an advanced age.

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When is the right time to prune – in spring or autumn?

Plum trees are usually pruned in the fall in areas with warm winters and mild climates. In cooler regions, experts recommend postponing pruning until spring. Traditionally, fall pruning occurs in early fall or early spring. Sometimes pruning is done in July to ensure fruit trees develop without broken branches. The correct timing for pruning depends on:

1. Type of trimming.
2. Weather in the region.
3. Age of the plant.

The first pruning is done in the spring. This procedure prepares the plant for the fruiting season and involves removing damaged and competing branches, as well as shaping the skeleton and crown. Spring pruning will be most effective if the growing season has not yet begun and there is no longer a threat of night frost.

Fall pruning for beginners involves preparing the plant for winter—the next most important operation after spring pruning. Proper pruning should only be done when the plum tree has shed its leaves—this is a sign that the growing season is ending. But don't delay care, as early frosts can come unexpectedly.

Trim branches:

1. Dry.
2. Broken.
3. Growing excessively.
4. Sick.
5. Competing annuals that thicken the crown.

If the top of the plant has reached 2.5 meters, it is cut back in September. In the fall, one-third of the one-year-old shoots of young fruit trees are removed. Two- to three-year-old shoots of older plum trees should be left until the spring warmer weather. Cut branches are destroyed by fire to prevent pests from infesting the garden in the spring.

Pruning rules and tools

There are certain recommendations for beginners. Use only garden pruning shears. Avoid breaking branches, as this weakens the plant's immune system. Before pruning, clean and disinfect all tools using a suitable method. Cut shoots should be burned, otherwise pests may subsequently spread to the plants, negatively impacting the yield and health of the crop.

Every year, both novice and experienced gardeners should thin out overgrown branches. This will improve fruiting and also prevent the plum from freezing in the shade during the winter. Feed after pruning, not before. Proper care and adherence to these guidelines are the key to a healthy, fruitful plum tree.

It's important for beginners to know what tools to use to care for fruit trees. A gardener's arsenal for pruning should include:

1. Hacksaw.
2. Garden knife.
3. Secateurs.

Use disinfected tools. This is especially important when pruning diseased branches. Many diseases are universal and spread from plant to plant. Trees and herbaceous crops share common pathologies.

Tools must be well-sharpened: flattened or frayed cuts will take a long time to heal, often resulting in necrosis of these areas. A hacksaw is used to prune skeletal branches. A knife is used to remove primarily young growth and trim the ends. To make a smooth cut without damaging the tissue, practice properly on unwanted branches. Secateurs are the ideal tool. They can prune fairly thick branches. They must be well-sharpened, otherwise a quality cut will not be achieved.

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Types and degrees of pruning

Several types of pruning are used today. Pruning can be formative, health-improving, rejuvenating, or to maintain shape. Plum trees are traditionally shaped into pyramids. Any plum pruning should be completed by early October in regions with a temperate continental climate (the Moscow region, the Volga region, and central Russia south of it). Otherwise, the tree will freeze.

Caring for plum trees in autumn has its own subtleties. It is permissible to completely cut back:

1. Spinning tops.
2. Thin thickening branches.
3. Shoots growing into the wood.
4. Crooked rods.
5. Basal shoots.
6. Dried areas.
7. Very large branches.
8. Competing plants.
9. Overextended or incorrectly directed conductors.

Strong, old branches or branches that are not pruned in a timely manner that are growing harmfully should be pruned in the summer, as shown in the video. If this largely resolves the crown thinning issue, then thin and medium-thick skeletal branches planned for pruning next season are pruned.

Actively growing shoots are cut to 2/3 of their length.

Shaping the crown of a plum tree

Fruit plants are pruned first when transplanting a one- to two-year-old seedling into the ground. This is done to ensure the rhizome is able to provide nutrients to the skeletal branches after a stressful situation. Initial pruning is performed as follows:

1. The trunk is cleared of lateral shoots 500 mm from the ground and removed one and a half meters from the ground.
2. The rest remove 50%.
3. The following year, the trunk is cut above the largest bud.
4. Three times a year, remove the growth of lateral branches, as well as broken and damaged ones.

For three-year-old trees and older, the trunk is pruned once a year so that its length is 2.5 m, and the plant grows straight and full, as in the picture.

For a seedling

This is done immediately when the tree is planted in the garden. This allows the weakened rhizome to adequately saturate the remaining branches with micronutrients after transplantation. Traditionally, no more than four shoots are left; these will later become the plant's skeleton.

For replanting, you can use either a one-year-old plum tree or a two- or three-year-old one. The latter usually establishes better and is more disease-resistant. Two-year-old trees, however, are slower growing and require light pruning. Here's a step-by-step guide:

1. Saplings have uneven shoot growth, causing them to stretch and reach up to 200 mm in length. Therefore, pruning is necessary at least three times (annually).
2. The central leader is pruned once a year. It's important to thin the crown around it to maintain the main growth leader.
3. In the first year, the skeleton needs to be established. To do this, cut off excess branches growing inward.

It's important to determine the shape of the plum tree's crown, its required dimensions, and its aesthetics in advance. Then, all you have to do is stick to the plan.

For young plums

A young tree is considered to be up to five years old. During this period, the overall shape of the crown develops and a pair of strong skeletal branches grow. Formative pruning is usually scheduled for spring, allowing the plant to adapt over several warm months. However, in mild winters, pruning can also be done in the fall. Plum trees are typically shaped into a cup or in several layers.

For a multi-level crown you need:

1. In the first year after planting, mark the tree's trunk zone. This is usually 500-600 mm from the ground.
2. Count 5-7 buds above the mark. Cut off the tops above them.
3. From the remaining buds, the very bottom of the plant is formed for the next season.
4. From the remaining shoots, select 2-4 healthier ones extending at least 60 cm from the main trunk. The remaining shoots extending into the trunk zone are cut back to the ring.
5. The next tier is formed in the 3rd or 4th year, usually consisting of two branches. The distance from these to the lower branches is 250-300 mm.
6. If you want, you can form a third tier using the same pattern.

The cup of young plum trees is formed as follows:

1. They form the bottom, as in the tiered version.
2. The shoots are selected based on their location: they should grow at an angle of 60-90 to the trunk.
3. The minimum distance to strong branches and ground is 400 mm, the maximum is 550 mm.
4. When strengthening branches, the conducting center is cut off.

For old fruit trees

Rejuvenating treatments are necessary, but not more often than once every five years. Experienced gardeners also recommend spreading pruning over several years. This reduces stress on the plant.

If a tree has stopped growing, it needs to be rejuvenated. The process is step-by-step:

1. Two or three skeletal branches are removed, but sometimes just one is enough. It all depends on the plant's strength. The fewer shoots are removed, the easier it will be for the fruit plant to cope.
2. To ensure a straight cut, it is trimmed in two opposite directions. Otherwise, the heavy branch may break under its own weight, which will negatively impact the health of the mature plant.
3. The cuts must be cleaned and thoroughly coated with pitch.
4. Next season, new shoots will grow in these areas. There should be no more than four of the strongest branches; the rest are removed closer to summer.
5. If the plum tree is doing well and the overall fruit production is maintained, the procedure can be repeated. However, if the tree is weak, has developed few buds, produces a meager harvest, or has lost its aesthetic appeal, fertilize the plum tree in the fall and leave the plant alone for a couple of years.
6. Rejuvenation is considered traumatic for plum trees. It is traditionally performed in early spring to allow the older tree to adapt while the weather is warm.
7. You can feed after the manipulations, preferably with liquid preparations.

When pruning plums in the fall, the scheme provides for the process to be carried out only in a warm climate without squally winds and frosts below -15 ^OS. For example, the Leningrad region is not suitable.

Don't prune young shoots from old plum trees without a good reason. It's best to perform only sanitary pruning.

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Columnar varietal species

These trees are distinguished by a regular, elongated crown shape. Pruning the columns has its own nuances. Fruit on these trees grows along the trunk surface, so all lateral shoots are removed annually. The central conductor must not be touched.

Even if the top freezes, the rootstock will eventually revive and produce 2-3 new shoots. The healthiest of these should be left behind.

Regional features

Pruning is done every spring. In central Russia, this occurs in March, in the north in April, and in the south, there are no restrictions. The only requirement is to do it before the sap begins to flow and buds begin to swell, but when the temperature is no lower than -6°C. ^OC for a long time, since in this case there is a high risk of injury to the plant.

Seasonal work:

1. In summer, pruning is done in early to mid-summer. This procedure is especially effective for young plants; older trees are pruned only when necessary. Also during this period, you can prune shoots that have died during the winter, if this was not done during spring maintenance, as they now become clearly visible and easy to identify.
2. Fall pruning is necessary in September; in areas with a consistently warm climate, preventative pruning can be performed as early as early October. In areas where winter comes early or is prolonged, fall pruning should be avoided if possible, as the fruit tree will not have time to adapt before the frosts. An exception is the need for sanitary treatments, but these should be performed as early as possible.
3. Winter pruning has become popular recently. The main advantage of this method is stimulating the growth of young shoots in the spring. This is because plum trees tolerate winter much better than other stone fruit species.

Even during severe frosts, this procedure should still not be performed, as it can affect the growth and development of the plant. This type of pruning is only suitable for the south, where it is warm even in February.

Care after pruning

Pruning fruit trees is a challenging task that even a novice can handle. However, it's not the process itself that's more important than proper plum tree care. If the plant's foliage has turned yellow, it's looking poor, and its yield has decreased, it needs urgent attention. The basic criteria for proper care are:

1. Cleaning the cut area. This is done with a sharp knife.
2. Treating the cut. For this, use garden pitch or drying oil.
3. Feeding with simple fertilizers.

After pruning, plum trees need strength to seal the wounds, so complex fertilizers will help them recover. Proper care will help them reap a bountiful harvest.

Fall pruning of plum trees is considered optional, but important. Pruning helps maintain the tree's health, shapes its crown, and regulates branch growth. It's important to follow the rules for pruning shoots and not neglect subsequent care. This will ensure the plum tree continues to delight with its decorative beauty and fruiting, even in its most advanced years.