Rules and features for planting apple trees in the fall in the Moscow region

Apple

The success of an apple tree's development and fruit production depends on the choice of seedling and its proper planting. A proper approach will help protect the tree from diseases and pests. This is especially important when growing the tree in regions with harsh climates, such as the temperate zone. How to properly plant an apple tree in the Moscow region in the fall: timing, planting process, helpful tips, photos, and videos.

Selecting a variety based on the Moscow region climate

The Moscow region has a temperate continental climate, with abundant precipitation throughout all seasons. Spring is early—late March to April—but consistently warm weather doesn't set in until the end of May. Recurrent frosts are common from mid-May until June 5th to 10th. In winter, severe frosts are often followed by thaws. Summers are moderately warm, with frequent and significant temperature fluctuations between day and night (ranging from 5°C to 10°C).

Attention!
Autumn in the Moscow region is generally characterized by mild, warm weather, but frosts can occur as early as the second half of October, rarely in early November.

When choosing apple trees for growing in the Moscow region, select varieties that bloom mid-season (April) and are tolerant of high humidity and frequent weather changes. Avoid ordering seedlings from catalogs, especially foreign ones; it's better to purchase already-adapted planting material from local nurseries. Most diseases thrive in humid, moderately warm environments, and varieties should have strong immunity to fungi, bacteria, viruses, and pests.

Early or summer varieties yield fruit as early as mid-July. The fruit is not suitable for long-term storage in a basement or cellar, as it has a thin skin and a lot of juice. They can be stored in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. These varieties are ideal for central Russia. Thanks to the short growing season, a good harvest is possible even in harsh, variable climates. Another advantage of early fruiting is that even young trees have time to fully recover and strengthen by autumn, so they survive the winter well and are virtually disease-free. Varieties:

  1. White filling (Pudovshchina).
  2. Antonovka gold.
  3. Melba.
  4. Candy.
  5. Arkadik.
  6. Moscow pear tree.
  7. Lungwort.
  8. Mantet.
  9. Folder.
  10. The pink is excellent.
Golden Antonovka

Mid-season varieties are commonly called autumn apples. The first harvest occurs in late August, and the trees continue to bear fruit until mid- to late September. The fruits are tasty, but their dry matter content is slightly higher than that of summer varieties, so autumn apples can be stored for up to two months at home. If stored in a cellar, provided with optimal temperature and humidity, they will keep until the end of December.

Varieties:

  1. Brown striped.
  2. Autumn joy.
  3. Zhigulevskoye.
  4. Spartacus.
  5. Anise.
  6. Rossoshanskoe striped.
  7. Glory to the victors.
  8. Lobo.
  9. Borovinka (Kharlamovskoye).
  10. Arkad Tenkovsky.
Autumn joy
Attention!
Mid-season varieties also manage to yield their entire harvest before significant autumn cold weather sets in, but it is better to choose older seedlings (2 or 3 years old).

Late or winter varieties are characterized by a very slow ripening period, which is unsuitable for the Moscow region's climate. The fruit is intended for long-term storage; it is harvested at technical maturity, where it develops flavor and juice during storage. These apple trees are not recommended for growing in the Moscow region, but there are several varieties that produce fruit before the first frost (in October):

  1. Golden Delicious.
  2. Saffron pepin.
  3. Moscow winter.
  4. Antonovka ordinary.
  5. Kandil Orlovsky.
  6. Northern Sinap.
  7. Kutuzovets.
  8. Kuibyshevskoe.
  9. Star.
  10. Richard.
Golden Delishes

Before purchasing a sapling, decide on the tree's placement and planting pattern. Tall varieties, reaching 5-8 meters, are not suitable for small gardens; they should be spaced at least 5 meters from other trees. Tall and wide apple trees are more difficult to care for (spraying and pruning). Medium-sized varieties are good for small plots; neighboring trees and shrubs should be spaced 3 meters apart. Columnar and dwarf varieties produce small yields, but they can be planted in groups (every meter).

Optimal planting times

In central Russia, apple trees are planted in spring and fall. However, young, immature seedlings can be severely damaged by the scorching sun, which typically occurs in the region in summer. This problem is solved by temporary shading, which is provided during the day, early in the morning, and immediately after 3:00 or 4:00 PM. This is inconvenient for those who spend time at their dachas on weekends, so it's best to plant apple trees in the Moscow region in the fall, when the sun is gentler and won't burn the trees.

To ensure the seedlings have time to take root and establish themselves in their new location, autumn planting of apple trees in the Moscow region should be done at the optimal time. Experienced gardeners recommend scheduling the procedure for the period from early September to late October, ensuring at least a month remains before the first frost. You can use the weather of the past two to three years or consult a long-term forecast. For autumn planting, choose two- to three-year-old seedlings; one-year-olds are best planted in spring, as they have very weak root systems.

Preparatory work in the garden and planting

Having determined the best time to plant apple tree seedlings in the fall, begin selecting and preparing the site. This should be done in the summer, as it's best to dig the hole 2-4 weeks before the scheduled planting date. The site should be open, sunny, protected from wind and drafts, with loose, non-acidic, fertile soil. The tree does not tolerate waterlogged areas (groundwater no higher than 2.5 meters). If a suitable site is unavailable, the tree is planted on an embankment.

Attention!
It is desirable that fruit crops have not previously grown on the selected site; it is good if the place has been empty for about 4–6 years.

A hole is dug approximately 70x70 cm (28x28 inches) and the garden soil is piled up for backfill. A 30-40 cm layer of drainage material (broken rocks, gravel, etc.) is placed at the bottom of the hole. The excavated soil is mixed with humus and compost in a 2:1:1 ratio, followed by a cup of wood ash and 40-60 g of complex mineral fertilizer. Heavy, clayey soil is structured with sand, while acidic soil is normalized with dolomite flour, meadow marl, or lime. Here's how to plant apple trees in the fall in the Moscow region:

  1. A peg is driven into the middle of the hole, to which the tree is later tied.
  2. A layer of soil up to 10 cm thick is placed on the bottom.
  3. The tree is placed in the middle of the hole, filled with the previously prepared substrate in layers, the soil is periodically lightly compacted and the roots are straightened.
  4. The root collar is left on the surface, the seedling is watered generously (15–20 liters of water), and tied up.
  5. The tree trunk circle is mulched with peat, humus, straw or rotted sawdust.

If the seedling is closed-root, water it thoroughly before planting. After 1-2 hours, remove it from the container and transfer it to the hole along with the soil ball. Any decomposable material, such as paper wrapping, can be left in place. Inspect the exposed root, remove any dry, rotten areas, and soak it in Kornevin, Heteroauxin, or Epin (according to the instructions). Replace growth stimulants with a solution of dry yeast—100 g per bucket of water. About a week after planting, the soil will settle; be sure to top it up to the original level.

How to care for a seedling

Even a beginner can manage planting and caring for an apple tree in the Moscow region; you just need to follow a few simple rules. In the fall, one-year-old seedlings are pruned slightly, cutting back the top so that the trunk is approximately 75 cm tall. Two- or three-year-old trees are also pruned, but in this case, the side branches are shortened slightly, by just 3–4 cm. This lays the foundation for further crown formation. The cut areas are dusted with wood ash, dry mustard, or coated with garden pitch.

Before significant cold weather sets in, monitor soil moisture, prevent it from drying out, and water the trees regularly and moderately; waterlogging will also be unhealthy. After watering and rain, loosen the soil. Fruit-bearing trees are watered three times during the growing season, usually only during droughts. The first fertilizer application is made three to four years after planting. Weeds from the tree trunk area are removed along with the roots as they grow.

Read also

Why hasn't the apple tree shed its leaves and what should I do?
The timing of apple tree leaf fall can vary among different cultivars. Late-ripening varieties tend to have shoots that remain green longer because they dedicate their nutrition to the fruit until almost mid-autumn.

 

Trees are inspected daily for diseases and pests. If any problems are detected, young apple trees are treated with folk remedies or biological preparations (Bitoxibacillin, Fitoverm, etc.). After leaf fall, spray with a 1% Bordeaux mixture as a preventative measure, and repeat the procedure in the spring. After fall planting, the tree must be covered for the winter:

  1. About 10 days before the onset of frost, the apple tree is watered generously.
  2. Replace old mulch with new, laying it in a layer of 8–10 cm. Do not use spruce branches or fir branches as mulch, as they acidify the soil.
  3. Several pegs are driven in around the trunk and burlap is stretched over them so that the seedling is completely covered, leaving small holes for air access.
  4. Another option is to wrap the trunk slightly above halfway with transparent polyethylene or lutrasil (in several layers). The material is wound from the ground up, providing additional protection from rodents.

Attention!
Avoid adding dry leaves on top of the mulch; excessively warm conditions inside the shelter can cause rot on the roots and lower trunk. In winter, rake snow up to the seedling.

Young seedlings are watered in the evening with warm, settled water. During the first year, the tree should not be whitewashed, as this can burn the delicate bark. Spruce branches are not used as mulch, but they are used to tie the lower parts of the stems for the winter to protect against mice. If you choose the right variety and site, time your apple tree planting in the fall, and provide proper care, you can grow a strong, abundantly fruiting tree even in the Moscow region.

How to plant an apple tree in autumn
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