Rules, methods and timing of mulberry grafting

Trees

Mulberry grafting is a procedure performed by gardeners to improve the flavor of the fruit when the berries are too sour, small, or the yield is meager. A mulberry grafted onto another variety retains all its varietal characteristics on its native branches. Besides mulberries, some new grape or fig varieties can also be grafted onto mulberries; of the other plants that gardeners have tried to graft onto the tree, none have survived. However, it's important to keep in mind that the graft is a relatively vulnerable area, so it must be properly prepared for winter.

Why do they vaccinate?

Mulberry trees are typically grafted onto other varieties of this garden crop. Plants classified as other species are rarely "planted" onto mulberry trees, as they are quite fussy and not every plant can tolerate such close proximity. The main purposes for grafting other mulberry varieties onto mulberry trees are as follows:

the fruits are too small;
the taste characteristics of the berries did not meet expectations;
yield figures are too low;
the desire to pick several types of berries from one mulberry tree.

What does the term vaccination mean and why is it done?

Grafting is a process that involves grafting a shrub or tree, called a rootstock, onto a branch of the plant being cultivated, known as a scion. For mulberry trees, white mulberry varieties are recommended as the standard. In this case, any branch from a different mulberry variety with suitable characteristics can serve as the scion.

By grafting, several varieties of mulberry can be grown simultaneously on a single tree, or other, non-conflicting crops can be grafted onto the same tree. This technique also helps gardeners preserve a preferred variety, even when the original rootstock is damaged and cannot be restored (cured). Grafting existing varieties onto new rootstocks is often used when a growing mulberry tree needs to be rejuvenated, but uprooting it is not possible for some reason.

What tools are needed and what are the conditions for successful grafting?

The most important requirement is the quality of the rootstock, which must be high-quality. The grafting base (rootstock) must be a tree that is already adapted to the region's climate and can easily withstand weather changes. Furthermore, the tree being grafted must have a strong root system. It's also important that the scion be compatible with it. The following tools, consumables, and supplies are required for the procedure:

garden knives - copulating and budding;
garden shears;
hacksaw;
pruning shears with thin blades;
garden varnish, RanNet composition or drying oil;
material for fixing the scion on the rootstock.

It's acceptable to use electrical tape, gardening bandage, or duct tape for the bandage. However, the bandage should only be applied after thoroughly sealing the junction of the rootstock and scion with garden pitch or another similar compound. It's also important to remember that all tools used must be sharp and disinfected before use.

Note!

For sterilization, it is acceptable to use an alcohol or a rich pink solution of sodium permanganate.

The negative and positive aspects of manipulation

Grafting a mulberry tree offers an opportunity to experiment with a plant grown in the garden. For example, a single mulberry tree can simultaneously contain three to four varieties of mulberry. This technique also helps grow heat-loving varieties in the relatively harsh climate of the temperate zone. This method can even be used to grow varieties that would otherwise thrive and bear fruit only in southern regions.

The procedure has one drawback: its relative complexity for novice gardeners. Another relative disadvantage is that the result of the procedure is not always predictable and does not always meet the gardener's expectations. However, if the recommended sequence of actions is followed and the grafting rules are adhered to, the procedure almost always produces the desired result.

What is mulberry grafted onto and used as rootstock?

Mulberry is a relatively easy-to-grow garden crop, belonging to the Moraceae family. This family includes over 10 species of deciduous trees. Grafting will be successful when using any species of Moraceae as the rootstock, whether domesticated or not. However, grafting a garden mulberry tree onto a wild mulberry is only permissible when the crop's yield has significantly declined. That is, the garden crop has been producing consistently low fruit for several years. Mulberry can be grafted onto the following fruit tree species:

black mulberry to white;
red (pink) to black;
white to red or black;
varietal mulberry tree for "wilding";
weeping to ordinary tall and spreading.

Attention!

There is no point in grafting a mulberry tree onto other fruit crops – pear, cherry, plum or cherry – since the scion does not take root.

Few plants can be grafted onto mulberries, as the tree is quite fussy in this regard. However, some experimental gardeners have achieved success and have been able to graft not only other varieties but also other crops onto mulberries. For example, scions made from some new grapevine varieties, as well as figs, can be used as mulberry rootstocks. However, in the case of the latter fruit tree, grafting it onto a mulberry tree is only advisable when growing in southern regions.

Preparation for the procedure and determination of its results

Mulberry rootstock must be of high quality; older trees are not suitable. It's best to use a young, healthy plant, which belongs to the Moraceae family. However, if the mulberry tree is old, it can still be used, but only if the plant is completely healthy. This is possible because mulberries are long-lived, often exceeding 200-250 years.

Grafting material—scions—can be harvested in the first ten days of spring or in the fall. Only branches no more than one year old can be used as scions. These shoots must be taken from a tree that has been growing for at least three years, but no more than eight. The buds on these branches must not be frozen, but alive but dormant.

You can tell the grafting process was successful by observing other signs. For example, the grafted scion will begin to develop within a couple of weeks, buds will grow, and the cutting will retain its fresh and healthy appearance. However, if the grafted shoot turns black or dries up after half a month, this indicates an unsuccessful attempt at grafting. However, it's too early to remove the bandage, as the shoot has not fully taken root. The bandage should be loosened slightly after three months and not removed until at least three and a half to four months have passed.

Reference!

To increase the likelihood of scion acceptance, it is recommended to prune off all shoots below the graft site. This will prevent the rootstock from feeding them and will instead devote all its energy to supporting the scion.

Performing mulberry tree grafting

After selecting the rootstock and preparing the grafting material, the grafting process can begin. To ensure a successful grafting process, the gardener must follow certain rules—these are essential, as otherwise, a successful grafting result is virtually impossible. The key factors that increase the likelihood of scion acceptance are as follows:

The shoots prepared as scions must be “alive”, look healthy and have no damage on their surface.
Cuts on the rootstock (mature tree) are made only with disinfected instruments.
The time required to perform this procedure must be kept as short as possible, as the cuts quickly oxidize under the influence of air and the sap flow stops.
Garden pitch, RanNet paste or another similar composition, as well as dressing materials are prepared in advance, before the procedure.

The timing of the procedure is also important. If the timing is inappropriate, the grafting material will not be able to take hold on the rootstock. Therefore, the procedure is performed exclusively in the spring or summer, after active sap flow has begun. This timing is necessary so that the rootstock has the ability to support the viability of the scion.

Preparing mulberry cuttings

Cuttings are harvested in the fall, after the leaves have fallen and below-freezing temperatures have not yet set in. It is also acceptable to prepare grafting material in the spring, before sap flow begins, but the cuttings must be frost-proof. The shoots are cut with a sharp, disinfected knife. The scion should be approximately 30-40 cm long, and the shoot should be approximately 0.7 cm thick. Avoid skin contact with the cut site, as this could introduce an infection that will reduce the effectiveness of the graft.

Storage of silkworm cuttings

To preserve the quality of the scion, cut in the spring, it is kept in the refrigerator at a temperature of approximately +2˚ C. The grafting material is wrapped in a damp natural cloth and covered with plastic. It is also acceptable to leave the cut shoots in a basement at a similar temperature. Autumn cuttings are stored in wood shavings outside. A layer of sawdust is made and poured over them with carbolic acid (50 ml) diluted in water (10 l) to protect the scion from rodents. The cuttings are also covered with wood shavings, covered with cellophane. Not all material survives the winter, so it is stored "in reserve."

The right time for the procedure

Mulberry grafting is done in the spring or summer, but the optimal time is mid- to late April. During this period, the mulberry tree enters the flowering phase, and sap circulation is most active. Due to the increased sap flow, the likelihood of successful grafting increases. In the summer, either the last days of July or the first days of August are chosen. Sap flow is also more intense during this period than at other times.

Attention!

A few days before the planned manipulation, you need to water the mulberry tree well.

Preparing mulberry grafting for the winter season

Mulberry grafts need to be prepared for winter, as the junction between the scion and rootstock is extremely vulnerable to frost, especially in the first year after grafting. Before the first autumn frosts, place cardboard over the still-standing graft. It is also recommended to additionally mulch the area around the tree trunk; wood shavings or fallen leaves are acceptable options. In winter, after snowfall, create a snowdrift on top of the mulch layer.

Copulation and budding of mulberry tree

There are two main grafting techniques. For copulation, the scion and rootstock are joined with a 35-degree oblique cut, with the cut length being four times longer than the thickness of the grafting material. During the procedure, care is taken to ensure that the cambial layers are aligned. For budding, the scion is prepared in the fall, and the procedure is performed only in the spring. A scion with one bud is used; this technique is also known as "budding." In other words, in most cases, only the bud is "grafted" onto the rootstock.

Copulation is normal and with a "tongue"

Standard copulation involves "grafting" the scion cut-to-cut with a tight connection. The "tongue" grafting technique is an improved method that ensures maximum fixation of the scion and rootstock. This means the notches overlap, ensuring a tight fit. To graft using this method, leave a 0.15 cm gap and make a longitudinal cut parallel to the wood grain. This is done on both the scion and the rootstock, but the cuts must be directed opposite each other to ensure they are aligned. The scion and rootstock are then treated with garden pitch and secured.

Budding of mulberry with a shield with a T-cut and in the butt

The section of bark containing the bud is called a "shield," a T-shaped pocket made on the rootstock. This cut must match the dimensions of the "shield." They are joined and treated with garden pitch, then secured with garden bandage or electrical tape. The "butt" technique combines the "tongue" and "shield" methods. That is, a cut is made on the rootstock, dividing the "tongue" but cutting it off by a third or half, and the "shield" with the bud is removed from the scion. They are aligned so that the cambial layers align. The junction is treated and secured.

Attention!

The "language" and "shield" parameters must match.

Recommendations from gardeners

Grafting a mulberry tree is essentially no different from similar procedures performed on other garden crops. However, when performing this procedure, gardeners should carefully inspect the scion site and select high-quality grafting material. Gardeners who have performed this procedure on mulberry trees before recommend the following to beginners:

Grafting should be done not at midday, but in the morning (when the dew has already dried) or in the evening, at sunset. The weather should also be clear, with moderate humidity.
It is necessary to graft several shoots at the same time, since not all of them will be able to take root.
It is better to choose an adult specimen as a rootstock, since in this case the first fruits will be on the scion after 2-3 years.
When a low-growing rootstock is selected, it is subsequently possible to control the height of the tree and shape its crown, which is why spherical and weeping varieties of mulberry are often chosen as rootstock.

Mulberry grafting is often used, as it not only improves flavor and yield but also allows for the harvesting of different varieties of berries from a single tree. Grafting also helps increase frost resistance and alter the timing of fruiting. There are various methods for grafting, but the key factors to consider when choosing any method are sterility of the tool, proper technique, and the quality of the scion.