Cleft and cut grafting of apple trees: features and technology of grafting

Apple

Many experienced gardeners practice apple tree grafting. This procedure improves fruiting and the trees' resilience to local climate conditions. A single tree can produce fruit of different varieties. Cleft grafting is particularly common. This method is simple to perform, does not limit the gardener's choice of scions and rootstocks, and is suitable for rejuvenating older apple trees. For the procedure to be successful, all the specifics of cleft and cut grafting techniques must be considered.

Advantages of the method

There are various methods for grafting apple trees. This tree is compatible with many fruit crops that have similar growing seasons. However, most gardeners prefer the simple and versatile cleft grafting method. It has several advantages over other options:

This method is universal, as it is not tied to the size of the scion or rootstock. It can be used on young seedlings and mature plants. It is often used to save trees whose above-ground parts are dying. It is also suitable for rejuvenating overgrown wild plants.
It ensures high survival rate.
Grafting takes very little time. This is important if you need to graft several trees at once.
This method is suitable for restoring plants with damaged bark. It is often the only effective way to save a dying tree.
Cleft grafting is easy to perform. Even gardeners with little experience can do it on their first try.
If the rootstock is large, many cuttings are placed on one plant at the same time.

Important!

Cleft grafting is possible on fruit-bearing plants.

This method of grafting has one drawback: a growth forms over time at the junction of the scion and the cutting. As the plant develops, this growth shrinks.

Vaccination timing

Any time of year is suitable for grafting apple trees using this method. Cleft grafting is used year-round. The procedure has its own peculiarities at different times of year, but the success rate doesn't vary significantly by season. For beginning gardeners, spring is the best time to perform the procedure. Grafting in the summer or fall months requires more experience.

Grafting in spring

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Apple trees are most often grafted using the cleft grafting method in the spring. The scion and graft take root well if the procedure is performed in April, before sap flow, bud swelling, and the appearance of foliage and flowers—the primary sources of nutrition. During the grafting process, both the rootstock and graft are damaged. In the spring, the plant tolerates these manipulations better and recovers more quickly.

The advantage of spring grafting is that it can be repeated. If for some reason the cutting fails to take root, the apple tree can be re-grafted a few weeks later. Grafting is performed when the average daily temperature has not reached +15°C.

Summer grafting

Gardeners aren't as busy in the summer, which frees up more time for grafting fruit trees. This procedure is usually performed if spring grafting is unsuccessful. Furthermore, there's no need to waste time preparing cuttings in advance during the summer months. The plant tissues fuse very well, without forming large burls at the junction. The tree doesn't require extensive care. All available rootstocks can be used simultaneously.

The best time for summer grafting is when branch growth has stopped. Depending on the region, this is performed in late July or mid-August. Grafting should be avoided during extreme heat. Also, midday, when the sun is at its strongest, is not a good time to perform grafting.

Grafting in autumn

In the fall, only experienced gardeners perform cleft grafting on apple trees. This is not the best time for regions prone to early frosts. If the scion and rootstock tissues do not fuse, the plant will die. It is recommended to complete the cleft grafting by September 10th. Only in warmer climates can grafting be done until mid-October.

Important!

You can't delay grafting apple trees in the autumn months.

To ensure successful vaccination, the following conditions must be met:

The procedure is carried out while active sap flow is taking place in the trunks and branches.
Errors during grafting are unacceptable. They greatly reduce the chances of successful survival. With the onset of autumn, the rate of metabolic processes slows. Therefore, the work must be carried out as quickly as possible.
Trees aged 3 to 6 years with skeletal branches with a diameter of 2 to 10 cm are suitable as rootstock.
All work is completed 2 weeks before the temperature drops to +15°C.

Possibility of winter grafting

If necessary, apple trees can be grafted even in winter. This method is also called tabletop grafting, as all work is performed indoors. In this case, pre-prepared cuttings are used. One- to two-year-old seedlings are used as rootstocks. They are dug up in advance, in late autumn. Until use, the plants are kept in a cool, frost-free room. A week before grafting, the seedlings are moved to a warm room. After another three days, they are removed from their packaging.

Tools and materials

To perform the work you will need the following tools:

a sharp knife with a small blade;
budding knife;
grafting knife;
pruning shears or wood saw.

Some gardeners buy special grafting shears. They have a non-standard blade shape. This tool is believed to be less damaging to the plant. It allows for making uniform cuts for perfect alignment of the surfaces.

To protect plant fibers from damage by pathogenic bacteria and pests, open cuts are sealed with garden pitch. This adhesive substance promotes rapid wound healing. However, in cold climates, it can crack. Bast bast or flax twine are used for tying. Electrical tape, adhesive bandages, or regular scotch tape can also be used. Materials with an adhesive backing should be removed with particular care to avoid damaging the bark with sudden movements.

Advice!

To prevent damage to the bark, the adhesive material is wound with the sticky layer facing outward.

Step-by-step instructions

The grafting procedure is simple. A one-year-old wild apple tree or a thin scaffold shoot will easily fuse with the scion. Grafting onto a larger stump or a large-diameter branch is much more difficult. Cleft or split grafting involves several steps. The scion is joined to the sapling, and the resulting joint is then sealed.

Preparatory work

Cuttings are taken several times throughout the year. One-year-old branches from the central part of the crown are suitable for this purpose. Shoots located in the southern part of the crown with short internodes are selected. Good scions are obtained from well-bearing plants aged 3 to 10 years. Cuttings are taken 30 to 40 cm long and at least 8 mm in diameter. Shoots that are too thin have difficulty rooting.

Time for harvesting cuttings

Buds don't swell early on shoots cut in the fall. If shoots were harvested in the spring, they can be used for grafting immediately. Fall harvesting is done in November after the sap flow has stopped. After pruning, the shoots are stored in a cool, dry place. A cellar or a vegetable drawer in the refrigerator is suitable for this purpose. The temperature there should be between 0°C and +3°C. If necessary, the grafting material can be preserved by burying it in a trench and covering it with dry leaves.

Cuttings that have successfully survived the winter have a smooth, even surface and dense buds. They are flexible and do not crack or break. If the bark on a shoot is wrinkled, but the shoot does not break at the bend, soak it in water for three days. First, make a new cut 2 cm above the previous one. It is advisable to check the cutting for frost damage. If the fresh cut turns brown after being placed in water, it is not suitable for use.

In spring, harvesting of scions begins before the sap begins to flow. The best time is March. The grafting material is stored at a temperature of +3°C. Prevent bud swelling or premature leaf formation on the scions. Such branches will no longer take root. Before use, the lower part of the scion is trimmed with a wedge so that its length is equal to three diameters.

Important!

Do not touch the cut with your hands to prevent infection.

Preparation of the rootstock

The seedling also requires preliminary preparation. The wilding or skeletal branch is cleaned of any dirt. Loose old bark is also removed. A cut is made at the desired location or small side shoots are simply removed, cleaning the surface with a knife. If a single scion is planned, the cut is made at an angle. The scion is then placed on the higher side.

A 20 to 28 mm long split is made in the center. To do this, first cut the bark to the desired depth. Then, using a knife or axe, split the trunk 5 to 7 cm apart. To prevent the trunk from closing, insert a chisel inside. If necessary, widen the split slightly by inserting a wedge. If there are multiple cuttings, make another split perpendicular to the first, as shown in the photo.

Splicing technology

If the rootstock is a branch or a young wild apple tree, the scion is carefully inserted into the cleft. This ensures that the cambium layers are aligned. The scion is not completely immersed, leaving a few millimeters of open cut surface above the cut surface. This improves tissue fusion. For grafting onto a wide stump, use two to four scions. They are inserted into the cut in the same manner. Ensure that the cambium tissue, not the bark, is aligned. The scions are inserted into the cross-shaped cut in pairs.

Insulation

The graft site must be protected. First, the area is wrapped in food-grade plastic. A piece of rubber or electrical tape will also work. This ensures complete contact between the tissues. This promotes faster fusion of the fibers. Then, all areas not covered by bark are covered with garden pitch. A plastic sheet is stretched over the top to keep the graft site constantly moist. When the first leaves emerge, the protective layer is removed.

Care

You'll know the grafting was successful after 3-5 weeks. If the tissues have fused, buds will open on the scion, and leaves will appear. As the scion grows in size, the graft site will become denser. The bandage is then loosened slightly to prevent it from cutting into the bark. Any damage to the bark at this point will result in the death of the plant.

The graft site is kept constantly moist. However, water should not leak between the scion and the rootstock. The site should also be protected from drying out. Otherwise, moisture loss reduces the chances of the scion taking root. Therefore, the grafting must be airtight. Its condition is checked every 2-3 days, and any cracks that form are sealed with garden pitch, if necessary.

During the first year, the grafted apple tree is protected from direct sunlight. Overheating or drying out the newly formed tissues will cause them to die. It's best to have another tree growing on the south side of the tree. If such protection is not available, a small screen can be installed nearby.

Important!

As soon as new shoots emerge on the grafted tree, they are immediately tied up. They develop very quickly, which means there's a high risk of the plant breaking off. The development of new growth is always monitored. All shoots appearing below the junction are removed to prevent them from robbing the tree of nutrients.

The universal cleft grafting method is suitable for fruit trees of all ages and sizes. It ensures better survival and is easy to perform and maintain. Preparatory work can be performed at any time of year. If performed correctly, the tree develops quickly and begins bearing fruit within 2-3 years.