Early cucumber varieties are hybrids that boast high yields and resistance to various diseases. They have a short period from germination to fruiting—usually 40 to 50 days. They are ideal for growing in greenhouses, where everything is under control and optimal conditions for growth and development are easily provided. They are suitable for all regions of the country. The only caveat is that in the South, they can also be grown outdoors.
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- Aprelskiy F1 is a self-pollinating hybrid with good cold tolerance. Fruiting begins in 45-55 days. This hybrid can be grown indoors and even indoors. The cylindrical cucumbers are covered with large tubercles. The fruit is 20-25 cm long and weighs approximately 200 g.

April F1 - Masha F1 is a relatively new variety, described by breeders as the earliest. The medium-sized fruits are used for pickling, canning, and eating fresh. With proper care, the fruits ripen 36 days after germination.

Masha F1 - Muromsky 36 is one of the earliest varieties. The first harvest can be obtained as early as 32-45 days. This variety is only suitable for growers who can harvest daily, as ripe fruits quickly turn yellow.

Muromsky 36
Early varieties are not as disease-resistant as mid- and late-season varieties. Their fruiting period is relatively short, but they have their advantages. For residents of northern regions, early varieties are simply indispensable, as the short summers make it impossible to grow late cucumbers.
The most fruitful
Parthenocarpic varieties
Since growing bee-pollinated varieties in greenhouses is too labor-intensive, vegetable growers prefer to grow parthenocarpic varieties that bear fruit without pollination. The most common include:
- Gepard F1 is resistant to bacterial wilt and powdery mildew. The cucumbers have an attractive shape and excellent flavor. They grow to about 11 cm in length and weigh 80-100 g.
- Orpheus F1 is a self-pollinating variety. Its fruits are covered with light, almost invisible stripes. The cucumber grows up to 12 cm. The taste is pleasant and completely free of bitterness.
- Glafira F1 – features spindle-shaped fruits that grow up to 20 cm in length. Each fruit can weigh up to 160 g. The hybrid is shade-tolerant, so it produces a good harvest even on cloudy days.
Other F1 cucumbers are also quite popular: Izumrud, Blik, Amur, Mazai, Romance.
The F1 hybrid Alekseich produces cucumbers 7-8 cm long. This early-ripening variety is resistant to downy and powdery mildew. Its medium-sized shoots produce gently tuberculate cucumbers suitable for all-purpose use.
You may be interested in:For canning
For pickling vegetables, it is best to choose varieties with thin skins so that the cucumber can be well saturated with brine.
- Finger;
- Cascade;
- Avant-garde;
- Fontanelle;
- Brigantine.
- Darling;
- Sunrise;
- Annushka;
- Trump card;
- Northerner.
Imported and exotic
Vegetable growers favor Chinese cucumbers, which range in size from 30 to 80 cm. Their dense flesh with small seeds is covered by a thick skin, they are undemanding in terms of light, and produce a good harvest. The most common varieties include:
- Chinese snakes are a super-early hybrid for salads, grown only indoors. The curved fruits reach no more than 60 cm in length;

Chinese snakes - Chinese Heat-Tolerant is a mid-season variety that thrives in hot climates. The cucumber grows to about 40 cm in length.

Chinese heat-resistant
Dutch varieties also enjoy considerable success among vegetable growers: Dolomite, Temp, Angelina, Ecole.
Armenian cucumbers are considered exotic plants, as their aroma is reminiscent of melon, and their fruit resembles a zucchini. Those who enjoy exotic varieties can grow "lemon" cucumbers. The vegetable closely resembles the fruit: it has a round shape and a yellowish color.
When to sow for an early harvest
To ensure an early harvest, timely sowing of seeds is essential. Before sowing cucumbers for seedlings, a novice vegetable grower should learn the specifics and technology of this process.
General rules
Cucumbers, like most members of the cucurbitaceae family, do not transplant well, so seedlings are grown in containers that prevent picking. Plastic cups or other disposable containers can be used, but they should hold at least 400 ml and be at least 12 cm tall. Some gardeners sow seeds in peat pellets.
Sowing seeds
Dry seeds take longer to germinate, so it's best to soak them in water. When sowing, it's important to follow these guidelines:
- the bottom of the container must have drainage holes;
- the container is filled with soil mixture not to the very top, but about 1 cm is left for watering;
- the soil should consist of 2 parts black soil, 1 part peat and a small amount of sand;
- A sprouted seed is placed in one glass to a depth of no more than 2 cm.

The containers are transferred to a warm room with a temperature of +24˚C and watered twice a week.
Deadlines
Seeds can be planted from late March to mid-May. The planting time depends on certain conditions:
- climate;
- growing place (greenhouse or hothouse);
- time of ripening of the first harvest.
For example, in the Moscow region, early varieties for greenhouse cultivation should be sown in late March. In Siberian regions, the same varieties are sown in the second week of April, and in the southern part of the country, the procedure is carried out in February.
Basic care
After the first sprouts have sprouted, the cups are moved to a bright place, which should be protected from drafts.
To accelerate growth, some vegetable growers use fluorescent lamps. They are placed approximately 5 cm above the seedlings. As they grow, the light source is periodically raised.
It's best to place the seedlings in a room with indirect light. The first feeding of cucumbers can be done 2-3 weeks after germination, and the second after the second true leaf has formed.
Pest and disease control
Greenhouse conditions are not only favorable for cucumbers but also for pests. The most common pests in greenhouses are the greenhouse whitefly and melon aphid. If whiteflies appear, spray the plants more frequently, especially the undersides of the leaves. After this treatment, loosen the soil and add sand or sawdust. As a preventative measure, cover the greenhouse vents and doors with gauze.

Overwatering and high humidity can cause powdery mildew, white mold, and gray mold on fruit. Affected plant parts are cut out, and the cut areas are sprinkled with lime. If powdery mildew appears, you can use a mullein infusion or a special fungicide. To prevent diseases, add potassium permanganate to the soil when planting seedlings.
Possible problems
When growing early greenhouse varieties, it's common for leaves to wilt, or spots or plaque to appear on the leaf blades. Most often, beginners encounter the problem of foliage drying out. Experienced gardeners identify several causes for this phenomenon:
- sudden changes in temperature;
- poor watering;
- improper application of fertilizers;
- planting next to tomatoes, which prefer dry air;
- dense planting;
- development of the disease.
You can determine what the plant is lacking by looking at its foliage:
- upward curling leaves indicate a lack of phosphorus;
- a brown border appears along the edges of the foliage - it is necessary to add potassium fertilizers or feed with ash;
- the formation of small and light leaves indicates a lack of nitrogen;
- green foliage with a yellow tint – lack of microelements (can be fed with a universal micronutrient fertilizer).
Sometimes, parthenocarpic varieties produce abnormally shaped vegetables, often deformed or hooked. This happens when parthenocarpic plants are pollinated by bees.
Frequently asked questions
To avoid confusion among the many cucumber varieties, beginning vegetable growers need to decide what they'll be growing the crop for: pickling or salads, long-term or early fruiting. This will make making the right choice much easier, and the end result will be more satisfying.






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