Recommendations for growing the cucumber variety "Muromsky 36"

The Muromsky 36 cucumber is one of the oldest varieties, yet it's still a common sight in gardens and is prized primarily for its early ripening time. This variety is low-maintenance and easy to care for, so it produces fruit reliably even in unfavorable years. But it is worth noting that in terms of yield it is inferior to almost all modern varieties.

Key Features

Developed by the All-Russian Research Institute of Vegetable Crops Breeding and Seed Production in the 1930s, it was added to the State Register in 1943 and zoned for cultivation in eight regions: the Far East, Northwest, North, East Siberia, Volga-Vyatka, West Siberia, Ural, and Central.

Description of the variety

Gardeners most often collect seeds themselves, but they're also easy to buy. They're often available for purchase and are inexpensive. When harvesting seeds yourself, you need to do the right thing: leave one or more large seeds and let them ripen completely. Then, remove the seeds and dry them thoroughly at room temperature. Key features:

1. An early ripening variety. From the time the sprouts emerge until the first cucumbers are harvested, it takes 32 to 42 days. Even today, it's one of the earliest ripening varieties, which is why it has survived to this day. Depending on temperature conditions, the cucumbers ripen within a month if they are favorable.
2. This variety is bee-pollinated, and during flowering, the number of male and female buds is approximately equal. The presence of pollinators is not necessary, but if present, fruiting is improved. The key is to choose early varieties that bloom around the same time as the Muromsky cucumber.
3. It was originally intended for cultivation in open ground and under temporary plastic structures. In regions with unfavorable weather conditions, it can be grown in permanent greenhouses. It is suitable for both home gardens and commercial production.
4. Determinate plants. The central stem typically ranges from 100 to 160 cm in length. Shoot production is moderate, foliage is abundant, and the leaf blades are large and rich green.
5. The Muromsky cucumber is distinguished by its resistance to nighttime temperature drops. It tolerates significant fluctuations during the day, but if initially covered with plastic, the plants grow and develop much faster.
6. The fruiting period lasts approximately two months. The last cucumbers are usually harvested in mid-August, after which the plants become severely affected by various fungal diseases, and a severe weakening of the immune system is a characteristic of this variety.
7. This variety requires a lot of watering and fertilizing. If there's a lack of moisture or micronutrients, the fruits will grow small and crooked. It's important to properly prepare the planting site and apply fertilizer at least every three weeks.
8. Resistance to bacterial wilt and powdery mildew is high. Other fungal diseases often affect plants in the second half of the growing season.

The seedlings can be planted in the soil Even in the first half of May. You should build a small greenhouse, as it will warm up the air faster, and cover the soil with agrotextile to help it warm up faster. After planting, open the plastic only on warm days; the first harvest can be as early as mid-June.

Fruit characteristics

This variety has an important characteristic: when overripe, the cucumbers turn yellow very quickly. Therefore, the fruits must be picked daily or every other day, at least. If this is not possible, it's best not to grow this variety, as many of the fruits will overripe. Let's look at these characteristics:

1. The fruits are oval or nearly ovoid in shape, significantly widened in the middle and almost round in cross-section.
2. The length of the cucumbers at the technical maturity stage is from 10 to 14 cm. The average weight is from 100 to 140 g. The diameter at the widest point is from 4 to 5 cm.
3. The surface is covered with small tubercles. The spines are black and not very sharp.
4. The color is light green, with pronounced light stripes along almost the entire length.
5. The average yield is 2 to 8 kg per square meter. This varies greatly depending on care. This is much lower than most modern varieties.
6. The taste is excellent. The very juicy and aromatic flesh makes these cucumbers suitable for both fresh consumption and any kind of preserves. This variety is also well-suited for pickling.

Cucumbers will keep for about a week if kept in a dark, cool place. They transport well, and the skin isn't significantly damaged during transit. If more than 12 hours have passed between harvesting and preparing, soak the cucumbers for 2-3 hours.

Grow correctly

This variety is simple to cultivate, but all recommendations must be followed, otherwise you won't be able to harvest more than 2-3 kg per square meter. The variety grows equally well when planted as seedlings, in the ground, or under plastic cover. The key is to choose the optimal time for the work.

Preparing seedlings

This method helps you get a harvest much earlier than sowing directly into the ground. However, certain requirements must be met when preparing and planting the seeds. If time is limited, it's best to plant cucumbers using the method described below. Seedlings are grown as follows:

1. Process the seeds. First, sort them, remove any damaged or empty ones, then soak them in a salt solution (a teaspoon per cup) for 10 minutes. Discard any that float to the surface, collect any that settle, rinse, and soak them in a potassium permanganate solution. You can also soak the seeds in a growth stimulator to improve germination; use it strictly according to the instructions.
2. Prepare the container. Since seedlings don't tolerate transplanting well, it's best to plant the seeds directly into individual containers. Special peat cups or regular plastic containers with a capacity of at least 200 ml work well. Peat pellets are another good option.
3. Fill the containers with a nutrient mixture. Make it from 2 parts compost, 2 parts garden soil, and 1 part coarse sand. You can add a little wood ash to the mixture. Fill the containers to about 3-4 cm above the top. Water the soil first, keeping it moist but not wet.
4. Place 1-2 seeds. Cover with a layer of soil no more than 1.5 cm thick. Cover the surface with plastic wrap and place the container in a dark place with a temperature of about 25 degrees Celsius. Keep there until sprouts appear.
5. Move the plants to a windowsill or other well-lit location. The optimal temperature is around 20 degrees Celsius, with at least 10 hours of daylight. If necessary, provide supplemental lighting with a grow light.
6. Mist the plants with warm water morning and evening, as they tend to dry out in living conditions. Water as needed, monitoring soil moisture and preventing it from drying out.
7. Grow until 2-3 true leaves appear. Don't delay transplanting to prevent the seedlings from overgrowing, as this is an early variety and shouldn't be kept indoors for too long. Estimating the approximate timing is easy – start the seeds in the soil approximately 30 days before transplanting.
8. Plant in a 40x40 cm pattern. Fertilize the bed thoroughly; ideally, use compost or well-rotted manure at a rate of one bucket per square meter. Dig the surface thoroughly to loosen the soil, then level it with a metal rake.

It's best to keep seedlings on the west or south side of a building. If the sun is strong, it's a good idea to shade the plants with a sheet of white paper to prevent sunburn. Harden off the cucumbers before planting: initially, keep them near an open window for an hour or two, gradually increasing the time. In the last few days, you can move the plants outside during the day if the weather is warm.

Planting seeds in the ground

This variety is most often planted this way. It's much easier, and with proper seed and soil preparation, germination is good. The key is optimal soil temperature. Seeds germinate best at temperatures between 20 and 25 degrees Celsius; they can be planted as early as 15 degrees Celsius, but germination takes much longer. Description of the process:

1. Prepare the seeds as described above. To speed up germination, germinate them in a damp cloth at 25 degrees Celsius. To increase resistance to adverse conditions, harden them on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for 8 hours. After hardening, warm the seeds at room temperature for 3-4 hours.
2. Fertilize the soil and till it. Disinfect with a copper sulfate solution 4-5 days before planting. For additional warmth, cover the bed with black agrotextile 7-10 days before planting. Planting can be done without removing the material, by making cuts in the desired locations.
3. Plant the seeds in a 40x40 cm pattern. Make holes or furrows 10-15 cm deep. Place two seeds at a time and cover with no more than 1 cm of soil. Water the plants generously. Cover the planting areas in the garden bed with plastic sheeting or plastic bottles; no need to do anything in the greenhouse.
4. Do not remove the covers until the shoots appear. Then, remove the film or bottles during the day and put them back at night. Do this before the onset of warm nights; the first flower buds often appear during this period.

If sprouts don't appear within two weeks of planting, you should replant the cucumbers. Most often, sprouting is due to low soil temperatures or insect damage. The period when the cotyledon leaves are opening is when the plants are most vulnerable.

Plant care

Without care, this variety won't produce many cucumbers, so you need to pay close attention to the plants and provide them with everything they need. It's crucial to follow all the steps described consistently, as the harvest depends on it.

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To care for cucumbers, you need to:

1. Provide adequate moisture until flowering. carry out watering Twice a week. Once fruiting begins, water every other day, and daily on hot days. Use only warm, settled water, at least 3 liters per plant. Loosen the surface after watering, or better yet, mulch to reduce moisture evaporation.
2. Fertilize every 3 weeks. Before flowering, use nitrogen fertilizers: urea or chicken manure solution. During fruiting, use phosphorus-potassium complexes or herbal infusions and wood ash. If micronutrient deficiencies are detected, it's best to apply foliar fertilizer. top dressing for a quick effect.
3. Tie up for easy harvesting. The vines are short, so trellises They can be kept low; this method of growing cucumbers allows them to ripen faster. There's no need to train the plants; they don't grow very large.
4. Treat cucumbers for diseases in the spring. Spray them with a Bordeaux mixture solution 1-2 weeks before flowering. This will reduce the risk of disease and destroy any pathogenic spores present on the stems and soil. Monitor for pests and disease outbreaks and treat as needed.
5. Harvest cucumbers daily. Work should be done in the evening or morning; it's best not to disturb the vines during the day.

When grown without tying, it is best mulch the surfaceThis will prevent the vines and ovaries from touching the ground, reducing the risk of fungal diseases, and preventing the cucumbers from rotting. Use any available materials for this purpose: from mown grass and sawdust to straw, peat, or agrotextile.

Reviews from gardeners

Nina, Ivanovo

My grandmother used to plant the Muromsky variety; for me, it's a taste of childhood. The seeds are cheap and easy to care for, the main thing is to give the plants plenty of water and fertilizer. They always bear fruit early, but they also stop producing early—by the end of August, they've already dried up, no matter how much care I give them; nothing helps prolong the fruiting period.

Andrey, Moscow

One of the family's favorite varieties, it grows well under plastic and produces early harvests year after year. It thrives on organic fertilizer and produces fruit abundantly, but the cucumbers quickly turn yellow if not picked. While it's not as productive as modern hybrids, it's superior in flavor to many, especially for preserves.

Murom cucumbers have been grown for over 80 years, and even today they are among the first to ripen. Their yields are noticeably lower than those of modern varieties, but they have excellent flavor. They tolerate temperature fluctuations well, but require watering and fertilizing.