Cucumber variety Garland f1: description and characteristics, reviews

Cucumbers

The hybrid was developed by the Gavrish breeding firm and entered into the State Register in 2010. It is a self-pollinating, early-ripening variety. It is used fresh and for canning. The flowers are female and ripen 35-45 days after sprouting. Male buds are virtually absent. The plant is weakly branched, low-growing, and vigorous at first. The F1 designation indicates that the variety is a hybrid. To achieve the desired fruit properties, two varieties were used.

Description

Undemanding in sunlight, it can be grown in adverse conditions and in any soil. Early ripening and a long fruiting period are the variety's main advantages. It has good immunity, resistant to most diseases:

powdery mildew;
Cladosporiosis.

Virtually resistant to downy mildew and viral mosaic.

Attention!

It has a high content of vitamin B, provitamin A, enzymes, ascorbic acid, calcium and iron.

It dislikes drafts and extreme temperature fluctuations. Fruit quality is not passed on to the next generation. Daily harvesting of ripe fruit is necessary. It's important to maintain proper planting conditions, as closely spaced bushes can promote the development of fungi and viruses.

Characteristic:

parthenocarpic;
with large tubercles, dark green, cylindrical;
fruit length 12-14 cm;
diameter 3-3.5 cm;
weight 10-110 g;
The yield is 14-16 kg/m².

Growing

https://youtu.be/o3RCP5mojpo

The seeds are already processed and do not require soaking or other procedures before planting. The recommended growing temperature is at least 25-30°C, planting at a depth of 1-2 cm. To obtain seedlings, sow in the second half of April. Planting in greenhouses occurs in late May or early June. They are primarily grown in greenhouses, spacing the plants 30x70 cm apart. They are also suitable for growing on windowsills and balconies. When planting outdoors, it is important to consider the soil temperature, which should be at least 13-15°C.

In a greenhouse, a planting density of 4-5 plants per square meter is acceptable. In open ground, don't skimp on space; it's best to plant no more than 3-4 plants per square meter. It's recommended to train the plants into a single stem, removing all side leaves. Also, remove flowers growing in the axils of the first four leaves. It's best to harvest daily to promote development and stimulate new fruit set.

Recommended regions:

Central;
Northern;
Northwestern;
Volga-Vyatka;
Central Black Earth;
North Caucasian;
Middle Volga.

Care Features

It's recommended to prepare the soil in the fall: add straw, pine needles, leaves, and shrub and tree branches. Cover the soil with plastic for the entire winter. After planting, regularly remove weeds, weed, and loosen the soil. For a good harvest, water the plant with warm water at the base of the plant.

The variety is intended primarily for indoor cultivation, with temperature control required, and the bushes should be protected from temperature fluctuations.

Avoid overdoing it with nitrogen-containing fertilizers, as this can cause deformation and shedding. To maintain fruiting, apply fertilizer twice a year. For every bucket of water, use:

1 tablespoon of potassium sulfur;
2 tbsp urea;
1 glass of ash.

Fertilizing should be done in warm weather, after watering, in the morning or evening. All cucumber varieties benefit from plenty of fluids. Before planting and the first flowers appear, watering should be moderate. Depending on temperature conditions, water every 3-5 days, with up to 4 liters of water per plant. During the fruiting period, the frequency of watering and irrigation should be increased. Watering should be done every 2-3 days, with up to 8 liters of liquid per plant. On particularly hot days, monitor the soil, preventing it from drying out and maintaining moderate moisture.

A full harvest can be collected in 45-50 days. It's important to remember to do this every day to stimulate new growth. Cucumbers can be stored unwashed in the refrigerator; it's best to keep them in a cool, dark place beforehand.

Crop rotation and soil preparation

Regardless of the chosen growing method, whether open ground or greenhouse, it's essential to add sufficient organic matter. When digging 1 m², add 2-3 buckets of manure. Good growth can be observed on sandy loam and loamy soils. Monitor the soil's pH and, if necessary, achieve neutral values. A good combination for planting seedlings is after the previous harvest of onions, celery, tomatoes, potatoes, or cabbage.

It is highly undesirable to plant after pumpkin varieties:

melons;
squash;
watermelons;
pumpkin;
zucchini.

Also, nearby growing nightshades have an undesirable effect:

tomatoes;
potato;
eggplants.

This will be noticeable, for example, in a greenhouse; cucumbers and tomatoes require different temperatures and humidity. Fertilizer requirements for these crops vary significantly. And in the open ground, neighboring plants like potatoes and tomatoes will interfere with their growth even in adjacent beds.

Growing cucumbers near herbs is not recommended. This is usually attributed to slower vine growth. Dill is an exception, as it has a positive effect on borage fruiting. Good neighbors include the following crops:

salad;
beans;
peas;
beet;
cabbage;
corn in open ground will help against the wind;
Beans are good at enriching the soil with nitrogen;
Onions release phytoncides, which kill spider mites;
radish will serve as protection against pests such as spider mite and leaf beetle.

Attention!

Consistent crop rotation will help prevent soil depletion, which occurs when the same crops are grown for long periods of time. Therefore, cucumbers should not be grown in the same location for more than 3-4 years.

Pests and diseases

Root rot manifests itself as wilting and yellowing of the leaves, along with cracks in the lower part of the stem. It is usually caused by temperature fluctuations, such as watering with cold water and cooling of the soil. When attempting treatment, you can try to expose the affected area down to the roots by scraping out the soil. It is recommended to treat the stem with a mixture of the following ingredients:

copper sulfate 2 teaspoons;
6 tsp chalk or ash;
1 liter of water.

Apply the resulting mixture with a brush to a height of 20 cm from the roots. Dust the stems with ash, chalk, or crushed charcoal. If the plant dies, dig it up and burn it, and treat the soil with copper sulfate at a ratio of 2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water.

Gray mold occurs with low night temperatures, cold watering, frequent planting, and poor ventilation. Gray, slimy spots appear on the plant stem and leaves. Numerous male flowers may develop, which quickly rot and infect healthy parts of the plant. Spreading rot should be cut off and burned. You can try treating the affected areas with 1 teaspoon of copper sulfate mixed with 1 cup of ash. Remove dead flowers, and immediately treat any rot spots with crushed charcoal or ash.

Brown spot (olive) can appear in high humidity and drafts. It is caused by:

cold water getting on the plant;
frequent drops in air temperature to 10°C.

In advanced stages, brown ulcers cover the entire fruit, oozing fluid, and it becomes inedible. You can try using:

copper oxychloride;
Bordeaux mixture.

Spray twice a week during warm weather. During cold weather, remember to close windows and doors to prevent drafts and temperature drops. On warm days, ventilation is necessary.

If small light spots appear on the leaf surface where they feed, it's a spider mite. They hide on the underside of the leaf and spin webs around it. Over time, the leaf begins to dry out. Low humidity promotes its spread. Insecticides should be used for control:

Fitoverm;
Iskra-Bio;
Bitoxybacillin;
Karbofos.

Gardeners' reviews

Gardeners' reviews indicate that this variety is suitable for growing indoors and producing a consistent harvest. It's suitable not only for canning but also for salads, imparting a juicy flavor. Its low maintenance and high disease resistance make this hybrid even more valuable.

Marina, 35 years old

I was very impressed with this variety. I fed it organically as usual. It yielded a very good harvest. We harvested until mid-autumn. No diseases were observed.

Vera, 29 years old

I've been choosing this variety for canning for several years now. They're delicious. They grow beautifully and are easy to grow. I didn't cover the soil. The harvest lasted from July until the end of September. I'm not considering other varieties yet, but I'm very happy with this one. Pollination is fine. I also grew them on the balcony and had a good harvest. They stopped bearing fruit in mid-September. But I'll be buying more for home use.

Pavel Trofimov, 42 years old

We didn't cultivate the soil before planting. We acquired the plot fairly recently, with established weeds. We just did the usual weeding and digging. We planted it late, almost in mid-July, in open ground, and weren't expecting any harvest. But we were very surprised. Next year, we plan to plant the same variety in a greenhouse and outdoors as an experiment.

Garland F1 is a hybrid variety resistant to many diseases. However, minimal care—watering, fertilizing, and weeding—is still necessary.