Methods for Effectively Covering Grapes for the Winter in Siberia

Grape

When growing garden crops in northern regions with harsh winters, it's important to pay special attention to providing reliable shelter from the cold. Therefore, experienced gardeners can explain to beginners: How to cover grapes Over the winter in Siberia to prevent freezing. Protecting plants from frost is one of the most important agricultural practices.

The importance of proper fit

The key to successfully sheltering grapes in Siberia is proper planting, ensuring strong roots. If the root system isn't hardened enough, the first severe frost will likely kill the plant.

Siberians have been growing grape vines since ancient times. using a special technologyCultivation methods have been developed over many years, and their effectiveness has been tested in numerous experiments.

When choosing a planting site, it is important to ensure that it meets the following requirements:

Good lighting conditions.
Absence of high humidity.
Lack of shading.

Important!

Any dark areas can reduce fruiting efficiency and also negatively impact the development of the immune system for the upcoming winter.

On the south side of the building, vines can only be planted if the gardener can constantly monitor their condition during the winter.

If this isn't possible, planting near buildings is pointless, as the snow depth in such areas is very low. When choosing the appropriate cultivation technique, it's recommended to opt for proven methods. The classic methods used by gardeners in northern latitudes are useless here. A more effective solution—deep planting—is necessary.

Subtleties of care

Siberian grapevine varieties require comprehensive preparation for cold weather. This involves limited feeding and minimal watering to allow the plants to adapt to the harsh conditions. Otherwise, the local climate will be detrimental to the grapes.

Proper care of fruit varieties includes the following stages:

Formative procedures and control of fruit load.
Application of foliar and soil fertilizers.
Pruning activities, pinching out stepsons.
Protective works.
Shelter for the winter.

Fact!

Siberian grapes are most often grown in a fan-shaped, trunkless form. This is because it's easier to care for, as the gardener simply needs to fold them up before covering them.

All other vegetation processes occur naturally. Until the age of three, the seedling doesn't require additional feeding, as it receives sufficient nutrients from the fertilizer added to the hole during preparation. This often includes a generous dose of compost. From the fourth year onward, an additional bucket of compost or manure is added to the plant.

Fertilizing work Fertilizers are applied no more than once a day. It's important not to overfeed the vines, otherwise they'll become accustomed to such a feast and become unable to cope with prolonged starvation. In mid-spring or early May, about 10 kg of fresh manure is poured under each bush. The fertilizer is applied directly to the vines, without being buried in the soil. Care must be taken to ensure that it doesn't reach the roots.

To stimulate the development of a strong immune system capable of withstanding severe frosts, grape vines should be treated with foliar fertilizers. Before the flowering season begins, the vine should be treated with a boric acid solution, and afterward, with zinc sulfate. Kemira and magnesium sulfate can also be used as effective foliar fertilizers.

Pruning activities

With the arrival of August, the natural growth processes in the vine's branches begin to slow. At this time, the vine's tops also fully extend, indicating the need to prune young shoots that won't fully develop before the cold weather arrives. During fall pruning, remove suckers and suckers.

Autumn pruning of grapevines is carried out using the Guyot method, which involves shaping a squat trunk and short branches. The number of branches depends on the varietal characteristics. A vigorous vine should have no more than 4-8 branches, and a medium-sized vine should have no more than two.

Pruning should begin after the first hard frost. It's also important to do this no later than two weeks after the leaves fall.

The procedure itself is divided into two stages. First, it's necessary to remove any fruiting or immature shoots, side shoots, and other shoots. When pruning a young bush, leave no more than three healthy shoots; on six-year-old trees, four shoots; and on trees seven years and older, six or more shoots.

The next step is to form the fruiting vine (shoots). To do this, leave one shoot on the branch and prune it back to four buds. At the same time, the side shoots are shortened to one bud.

If a branch has formed on an old tree and strong fruiting shoots have sprouted from it, no more than two shoots can be left. When pruning, adhere to the following principles: shoots can grow from different buds and be at different levels relative to the root system.

Autumn pruning involves removing immature vines with white centers, which can be seen when cutting the vine. Branches with green centers are mature and ready for winter.

Siberian grapevine varieties are characterized by excellent resistance to all kinds of viruses and diseases. This is explained by the simple fact that most infections cannot survive severe frosts. The use of toxic preparations and chemicals to protect against diseases is simply unnecessary. Therefore, the fruits of northern vines are also renowned for their complete ecological purity.

Effective shelter

When choosing the optimal time to cover grapes in Siberia, several recommendations and rules should be taken into account. This procedure consists of several stages:

Removing the vines from the trellis and pinning them to the ground.
Treatment with fungicidal preparations.
Setting up shelter before the onset of frost.
Final shelter.

There's no need to look for more sophisticated methods of protecting crops from the cold. Fruit varieties grown in Siberia are renowned for their excellent resistance to frost, so they can withstand even the most severe cold. With minimal effort, you can provide excellent cover that will withstand any frost.

The vines are removed from the trellises immediately after the leaves fall. Incidentally, all fallen leaves should be removed from the vineyard and burned, as they can rot and become a breeding ground for dangerous bacteria and viruses. Care must be taken when performing this task, otherwise the vines may be damaged.

Some gardeners recommend installing roofing felt insulation at the bottom of the trench. A good alternative to this material is polyethylene film. This additional insulating layer will prevent the vines from coming into contact with moisture that gradually accumulates at the bottom of the trench.

Methods for covering vines in northern regions may vary depending on current temperature and climate conditions. However, the general principles and rules for such work remain the same.

The tree trunk area is insulated with a thick layer of soil at a height of 10-20 cm. The vines themselves are tied into bundles and secured to the ground with metal clamps, which are placed 10-20 cm above ground level.

Additional processing

To effectively protect grapevines from cold, they need to be additionally treated with a 3-5% solution of ferrous sulfate. This procedure should be performed immediately after planting the vines, preferably in dry weather. The plant is also treated with a 5-7% solution of ferrous sulfate, paying attention to all parts of the cover: from the boards to the slate and roofing felt.

Metal supports should be placed on top of the grapes at a depth of 30-35 cm. The trench is then covered with polyethylene, roofing felt, and film. The sides can be left uncovered until severe frosts of -10 degrees Celsius (14 degrees Fahrenheit) occur. By choosing the correct trench depth, the grapes will be reliably protected from the most severe climatic conditions. Furthermore, their root system will be protected from frost and dangerous infections.

The best varieties of the northern regions

The cultivation of grapevines in the northern regions became possible after extensive breeding work, through which Amur and American varieties were combined. The distinctive properties of such hybrids are:

Resistance to severe frosts.
Rapid growth of green mass.
Ability to withstand intense temperature fluctuations.

Incidentally, some selective hybrids are so cold-hardy that their buds can survive frosts down to -40 degrees Celsius. Their root systems can withstand temperatures as low as -20 degrees Celsius.

Some varieties thrive in poor soils without intensive fertilizing, regular spraying, or shelter. The only drawback of these varieties is their poor taste, but breeders are working diligently to address this issue, resulting in the emergence of new, unique varieties worthy of special attention every year.

Among the most popular northern varieties are: