How to grow grapes in Siberia: cultivation, planting, and care, reviews

Grapes in Siberia are not a fantasy. Gardeners in this harsh region successfully cultivate this heat-loving crop, yielding substantial harvests of delicious berries. The secrets are simple: choosing the right varieties or hybrids, regular care, and following proper agricultural practices.

Beginning winegrowers are advised to start with small plantings, observing the plants' performance under specific conditions. Over time, experience will accrue and unique developments will emerge. For now, it's recommended to heed the advice of experts who offer detailed instructions on how to grow grapes in Siberia.

Grapes in Siberia: Regional Specifics

Siberia is a region with its own unique characteristics, shaped by its short, often cool summer season. Southern crops do not thrive here, so greenhouse plantings are often recommended instead of open-ground planting.

This vast region is characterized by varying climatic conditions. Western Siberia, for example, is markedly continental, while Eastern Siberia's climate is determined by its topography. The soils of the Eastern Siberian regions are based on deep permafrost layers, while podzolic, sod-podzolic, and tundra soils predominate in the Western Siberian territories.

Black soil freezes deeply in winter, and requires a significant period of time to thaw in the spring when warmer days arrive. These factors must be taken into account when selecting grape varieties.

Previously, the main mistake Siberian winegrowers made was using agricultural techniques common in vineyards in southern Russia. Few understood how to grow grapes in Siberia or what subtleties to prioritize. The choice of varieties was incorrect. early ones landed, but not frost-resistant varieties, which led to the destruction of plantings.

The results came after the emergence of grapes capable of adapting to the conditions of a short summer season, resistant to cold and recurrent frosts.

The first successes were achieved in Altai, in the famous town of Belokurikha. The talented breeder V.K. Nedin worked there, whose work later served as the basis for the development of Siberian varieties. Later, gardeners in Biysk achieved high yields by developing and using frost-resistant varieties with excellent flavor. In the early 1970s, amateur gardener R.F. Sharov founded a school for regional winegrowers. Thanks to his efforts, more than three dozen hybrid varieties of grapes have been developed for the Siberian regions.

Practice has shown that grafted grapes grow better, and the following are used as rootstocks: wild species plants from the Far East or varieties of Canadian or North American selection.

Siberian viticulture schemes (SVS)

The experience of breeders was generalized, systematized, and two systems for growing the crop were developed.

Scheme No. 1

The basis is the grafting of selected early varieties onto specially selected rootstocks of grapes taken from natural growing conditions. The harvest was produced by plants grown from cuttings Amur varieties of the culture. Features of the technology:

• when planting, trenches are dug;
• the vine is not tied up until stable warmth sets in;
• The load on the shoot is determined only after the frosts have ended.

In areas beyond the Ural Mountains, it's difficult to predict the return of cold weather in the spring, so it's best to avoid risks and limit the load in advance. Bushes are trained on vertical supports. Spare buds are always left in case the bushes freeze.

During the growing season, no disease or pest control treatments are used. The explanation is simple: there are no outbreaks of dangerous diseases in the region, so they simply loosen the soil around the bushes. Only cold-resistant rootstocks are used for grafting.

Scheme No. 2

The crop is grown from cuttings. Early varieties are planted, with the planting material prepared in the fall. Over the winter, it is stored in a cellar, buried under cover along with the mature bushes. Features:

• when cultivating on fertile, black soil, there is no need to dig holes or apply fertilizers;
• on loam, clay or sandy soils, small holes are dug for planting;
• there is no spring pruning (except for removing diseased branches).

Planting in small holes, trenches, or boxes is common. In poor soils, holes are dug and fertilizer is applied. As with scheme #1, no disease spraying is used. Weeds are removed from the row spacing and the soil is lightly loosened.

Before wintering, vines are covered in trenches, furrows, and under arches. Wintering conditions are determined by the cultivation method and specific climatic conditions. In practice, gardeners use different techniques, combining schemes to find the most suitable options. Fertilizing, cultivating, and hardening off the plants are also included for best results.

Siberian varieties

Several dozen grape varieties have been developed for cultivation in Siberia. These early- and mid-season varieties are adapted to the regional climate.

Delight

The Vostorg variety can withstand temperatures down to -25°C. This beautiful grape with large, reddish berries is a favorite among Siberian gardeners. It produces clusters weighing 700-850 grams. It is an easy-to-grow and productive variety.

Mystery

With proper care, the Zagadka grape will produce an excellent harvest. Outdoors, it ripens in approximately 110-115 days; indoors, it ripens 14-16 days earlier. The clusters weigh up to a kilogram, bearing juicy, dark-blue berries.

Beauty of the North

Breeders didn't just name this grape. Its berries are truly beautiful and delicious. The bunches are small, weighing up to 250-300 grams. The berries are pinkish-white and juicy. The bushes can withstand temperatures down to -28°C. It's productive and easy to grow.

Tukay

The vigorous bushes produce cylindrical clusters. The berries weigh 700-800 grams. The berries are white and pitted. Tukai's downside is its susceptibility to disease, even in Siberian cold. However, this variety is frost-resistant, quickly regrowing in the spring after frost.

In addition to these varieties, the following varieties and hybrid forms have proven themselves well: Pink Timur, Kodryanka, and Harold.

Choosing a landing site

In regions with a short summer season, planting site selection is especially important. For southerners, select sunny sites, preferably with shelter from a solid fence on the north. Avoid windy areas, lowlands, and areas with close groundwater.

Timing of planting seedlings

The timing depends on the weather in the specific area. Typically, stable warmth arrives in the region in the second half of May, marking the beginning of the busy season for gardeners.

The air warms up to 15°C, so the bushes are safe. The seedlings are planted on a cloudy day to prevent the bright sun from scorching them. The plants are shaded for the first few days.

Preparing seedlings and cuttings

It's convenient to plant grape vines in containers because their roots are covered. However, gardeners don't always have this type of planting material readily available. More often, vines are sold with their roots exposed. Plants purchased in the fall are stored in a basement or cellar over the winter.

When planting such grapes, the following preparatory work is carried out:

• trim the roots (up to 8-10 cm);
• soak the grape roots in solutions with stimulants (sodium humate, Kornevin);
• Before planting, dip the roots into a clay mixture.

Additionally, a little diluted mullein is added to the clay-cream mixture.

Planting cuttings and seedlings

Grapes are planted when warmer temperatures arrive, reaching 15°C to 18°C. Various methods are used, taking into account the characteristics of specific varieties, site conditions, and individual resources.

Planting in boxes

Planting in boxes made of planks is common. The boxes are sunk into the ground, and the sides are coated with clay. This method is effective in regions with long winters, where the soil warms up slowly after the snow melts.

Heat accumulates in the soil inside the boxes, and the seedling begins to grow and bear fruit earlier.

Landing in trenches

Planting in trenches is popular, protecting the root system and shoots from freezing. The distance between the bottom edges of the trench is about a meter, and between the top edges is 1.3-1.5 meters. The depth is 50 cm. Boards or slate are used to reinforce the sides. Supports are installed according to the height of the trench.

The supports are placed above ground level to prevent moisture from precipitation or snow from getting between the walls. Trenches provide excellent protection for grapes from rodent damage.

Planting in a hole

The traditional method is used on chernozem and other poor soils. A nutrient mixture and drainage (slag, gravel, brushwood) are placed in the hole.

Mixture: compost, potassium and phosphorus components, ash. It's best to let the vines grow indoors before planting. In February or March, they're planted in prepared containers, and then, when the weather warms up, they're transplanted into the beds. This method is suitable for grapes grown from cuttings, as well as for vines purchased in the fall.

How to plant grapes?

Some gardeners prefer to grow grapes exclusively in raised beds. Others believe that in regions with such harsh and unpredictable conditions, a greenhouse is the best option. The choice depends on the gardener's capabilities, budget, and the availability of space for elevated shelters.

In open ground

A site is selected on the plot, and the seedlings are planted strictly vertically. When planting in trenches, the plants are not buried deep. Be sure to straighten the roots and water the bushes with warm water.

Mulch prevents weed growth and retains warmth and moisture in the soil. Decomposed plant matter releases carbon dioxide, which is essential for photosynthesis.

In the greenhouse

For grapes it is necessary to install a special greenhouse:

• the height of the shelter is not less than three meters;
• They will install a drip irrigation system and ventilation vents.

When grown in greenhouses, all varieties require manual pollination. Plants also require mandatory spraying to prevent aphids, leaf rollers, and numerous diseases. In the sheltered environment, insidious fungi thrive quickly in the comfortable microclimate, which can lead to crop losses.

Load on the bush

Early-season grape varieties are highly productive. In regions where temperature fluctuations are common, fully loaded grapes do not have time to ripen. To ensure a timely harvest, thinning of the vines is essential.

During the first two years, the plants grow naturally, without human intervention. Then, excess shoots are pruned to create a load. In the third season, 10-12 buds are left for the summer. In the third year, the load in the fall is increased to 20-25 clusters. For plants with small clusters and small berries, the load is increased.

Trimming

A special feature of pruning grape vines in Siberia is that it is performed only in the fall, in two stages. In late spring or early summer, it is recommended to remove weak, diseased shoots. Fall pruning is essential, as dense vines with numerous shoots are difficult to cover for the winter, and under cover, they are more likely to rot in the spring.

The first stage: remove excess shoots after the berries have been picked but before the leaves have fallen. Thin out the base of the bush, any crooked or deformed shoots, and any green vines.

The second stage: pruning – before covering for the winter, when the plant has shed its leaves. Create a fruiting unit by shaping the bush from the bottom. Focus on the shoot diameter, leaving 10 to 12 buds. The plants have accumulated a sufficient reserve of nutrients in the fall after the berry harvest and will survive the winter without difficulty.

Growing options

Due to special climatic conditions, winegrowers practice different cultivation schemes.

On the trellis

The traditional option is to use trellises, but additional devices are installed to protect against possible cold spells.

1. Special foil screens are installed to accumulate heat.
2. Roofs are placed over the trellises to retain heat from the ground.
3. The ends of the rows are covered with film.

In these cases, the supports hold the vines, and the shelters protect them from unforeseen natural disasters.

There are two options for trellis cultivation of crops:

• the rows are arranged from east to west, the trellis posts are installed in one plane, the bushes cover the walls of outbuildings or a fence;
• When planting freely, rows are arranged from south to north, and trellises are mounted in two planes.

The bush shape is cordate-radial, as it is most suitable for the harsh conditions of the region.

In barrels

Cultivating heat-loving plants in barrels is a common practice. The vines are reliably protected from the cold during the winter and do not freeze.

When preparing for winter, barrels are placed in trenches or moved to cold storage areas (under a canopy or into a basement). In the spring, the containers with grapes are moved to greenhouses, and then to open-air beds. Barrels for such plantings hold 70-80 liters. After approximately 6-8 years, the grapes are transplanted from the barrels to the beds.

In hot weather, it's advisable to shade the plants from the sun, creating light partial shade. This method is labor-intensive, but if you have the time and desire, it can be used to grow dwarf varieties.

Containers

This option is similar to planting in trenches or boxes. Plastic containers with a capacity of 20-30 liters are suitable. Before wintering, the containers are dug in, the vines are bent down, and carefully covered.

Formation of grapes

In addition to choosing a growing method, determine the bush formation. The fan-shaped arrangement, where the bush grows without a standard, has proven to be the best choice. In cold climates with short summers, such plantings are recommended. easier to care for, cover for the winter.

During the first year, the plant is not pruned, leaving all branches. The following year, the central shoot is cut off, leaving two branches at the bottom. Pairs of branches are formed, leaving four buds. In this way, the bush gradually grows to four branches (usually in the third year). The shape is fan-shaped, hence the name of this method.

The fruiting vines on the bushes are from the previous year, which are cut back after the harvest. Therefore, when shaping and pruning, it's important to remember that the plant should have year-old fruiting shoots growing on it by spring each season. It's also important to have replacements for these vines for the following year.

Create a fruiting shoot (pruning (approximately 6-12 buds) and a replacement shoot with two or three buds. The yield of a bush is determined by the correct pruning, varietal characteristics, age of the plant, and its vigor.

Caring for grapes

Growing grapes in Siberia isn't difficult for beginners; planting and care involve a set of standard techniques:

• watering;
• top dressing;
• treatment for infections.

The difference is that in Siberia, pathogens that cause dangerous diseases are not as active, so preventative measures are sufficient.

Top dressing

For the first three years, grapevines don't require any additional feeding. The seedlings are nourished by a mixture placed in a hole (trench, or box). Starting in the fourth year, organic matter (humus and manure) is added in the spring and early summer. Nitrogen fertilizers are limited, as they stimulate vigorous vine growth and prevent proper ripening. Instead of manure, it's beneficial to apply humic acid fertilizers. These improve soil quality and boost the grapevine's immunity. From mid-summer, complete complex fertilizers with minimal nitrogen content or potassium-phosphorus supplements are applied.

The crop responds well to the introduction of ash, potassium monophosphate, and compounds from the Kemira series.

Watering

The amount and timing of irrigation depend on the soil, weather conditions, plant health, and planting method. Outdoor grapevines should be watered 3-4 times per season. In trenches, the vines are watered at a rate of 50-60 liters per square meter. When planting individually in pits, the amount of water is determined by the condition of the vines.

Under cover, the crop requires more frequent watering. Irrigation is not permitted during the flowering period, as well as during fruit ripening and maturation.

In the fall, water-recharging irrigation is administered to help the bushes better prepare for winter and maintain moisture reserves. The recommended amount per irrigation session is 100-120 liters (mature bushes) and 60-70 liters (young vines).

Disease prevention

The arduous work of Siberian winegrowers is made easier by the fact that the cold and short summers prevent pathogens from surviving. Minimal cultivation is a significant advantage in agricultural practices, as the harvested crop is environmentally friendly and free of harmful toxins.

Preventive measures:

• cleaning the area after harvesting and leaf fall;
• selection of varieties resistant todiseases and pests;
• timely pruning, removal of diseased shoots;
• dosage of fertilizers, minimum nitrogen in top dressing;
• maintaining distance when landing.

In spring, it's useful to spray the vineyard with Bordeaux mixture (1%) and a solution of potassium permanganate (0.5%). If the first signs of powdery mildew or mildew are noticed, promptly processing the bushes Thiovit Jet, Ridomil or Topaz (according to instructions).

For preventative purposes, spraying the crop in early summer with a solution containing Actellic is effective. Siberian winegrowers use biological products suitable for treatment at any stage of the grape growing season, including Baikal EM-1, Siyanie, and others.

Hardening of Siberian varieties

Growing grapes in greenhouses is easier, but in such conditions, the plants lose their immunity and become accustomed to the heat. Experienced gardeners believe that planting grapes in open-air beds helps harden the crop and adapt it to local conditions.

These plants are resistant to temperature fluctuations and seasonal weather changes. They survive the winter more easily and produce strong, healthy seedlings. Keeping the vines under cover all season is not advisable.

Shelter for grapes in Siberia

The harshness of the Siberian winter is legendary, so grapes are not grown here without cover. Beginning in mid-October, the vines begin preparing for winter, depending on the weather conditions. Early covering leads to shoot damping off and grape rot. Therefore, they wait until temperatures reach approximately 0 degrees Celsius before bending the vines.

Branches are trimmed and removed from their supports in advance. The bushes must be dry; moisture must not be allowed to come into contact with the plantings. Cover the plantings on a sunny day, carefully laying the shoots on boards. Do not place the shoots on the ground.

Cover the top with non-woven material, then lightly sprinkle soil over it and cover with spruce branches. Snow will do the rest. During winter, the amount of snow on the shelters is monitored. During snowless winters, snowdrifts are piled up and special barriers are installed to retain the snow cover.

As soon as the snow melts in spring, the covers are slightly opened. If film was used, the edges of the material are opened at the ends to allow ventilation. The cover is not completely removed, waiting for the vines to adapt to the warmer temperatures. In mid-April, arches with film are placed over the grapes. The temporary cover is removed around the end of spring, when frosts in the region have passed and the air has warmed up well. After this, the branches are carefully raised onto supports and tied up.

Reviews

 Alexander, Barnaul

I've been growing grapes for over ten years. The most productive varieties are Tukai, Sabo, and Muscat Katunsky. They grow in my beds, next to a barn, so the plantings are sheltered from the wind. It's a lot of work, cultivating the varieties takes time, and last year we even had mildew. But all the difficulties are surmountable, and the grapes I harvest are so good, they're far superior to store-bought ones.

Marina, Omsk

I only have a few grapevines growing in my greenhouse. I retired and wanted to grow my own grapes in our climate. I read books and watched videos. After successful experiences with watermelons and melons, I took up this crop. In my third year, I got several bunches of grapes, I have the Zagadka variety. I plan to expand my plantings and will try. transplantation into open ground.

Conclusion

Growing grapes in Siberia can seem difficult for beginners. Mastering the techniques gradually will help you achieve results. Following proper care, choosing the right varieties, and applying your own passion will help you achieve a high yield.