A Grape Pruning Scheme for Beginners in the Fall

Grape

Every plant in the garden must bear fruit, but the amount may be insignificant. Shrubs and trees devote most of their energy to developing vegetative mass, although gardeners have completely different goals. The main thing is Pruning grapes in the fall for beginners This involves removing 90% of the vine. Only a sufficient number of buds should be left for further growth and fruiting.

Parts of grapes

Before pruning grapes in the fall, you need to understand the structure of the bush. It consists of several parts:

heels;
standard;
heads;
shoulders;
knots;
fruit shoots.

The base of the plant is called the heel; it's located underground. It's where the roots begin to grow. The trunk, or stem, is the part of the vine from the ground to the first lateral shoot. All trees, shrubs, and flowers have a stem. The head is the thickening on the trunk from which the shoots originate.

Sleeves or shoulders are lateral shoots that grow from the main trunk. The buds growing on them are also called eyes. The long, pruned sleeve is the fruiting stem. Up to eight buds should be left on it.

Healthy!

A short shoulder is a replacement branch; after pruning, no more than four buds remain on it. A fruiting link refers to several shoots from the runners and shoulders. This structure is observed in mature vines.

Plant formation

There are several options formation of grape shootsThe simplest method is to prune the shoots so they grow horizontally rather than vertically. To do this, drive supports into the sides of the young bush and stretch rope or wire over them. The vine is then attached to these supports.

In the first year after planting, grapevines produce shoots and buds in the spring, and side shoots appear in the fall. Only two buds are left on a one-year-old plant; the rest should be removed. From these shoots emerge shoots that should be tied up and tilted in different directions. In late fall, after all the leaves have fallen, the shoots are shortened. This should not be done earlier, as the young vines will sap and dry out. One of the shoots is kept short, and the other is left longer. For the winter, it's best to remove the grapevines from the trellis and insulate.

Once the frosts have passed, April will come and you can harvest covering material and tie the vine to the lower ropes. The tops of the shoots should point in different directions. In a two-year-old plant, the stems grow vertically upward or at an angle from the center. In the fall, trim the long shoot, leaving only two buds. The outer vertical branches are trained into fruiting stems, each with four eyes. The vine is again removed and covered to protect it from frost.

Three-year-old grapevines also require treatment. In the spring, they are left uncovered for a few days, then the shoots are tied to the bottom wire, with the tops pointed in different directions. Replacement shoots should be positioned vertically; new stems will form from their buds. In August, the vines should be pruned back by 10-15 cm. This will increase the number and size of the grapes. In the fall, shoots that have stopped bearing fruit are removed.

Tools and materials

Before starting work, novice winegrowers should stock up on the necessary tools and materials. Full list:

pruning shears or special scissors;
garden gloves;
ropes, sticks and wire;
spruce sawdust and branches, polyethylene film.

Pruning shears must be very sharp. The shoots must be cut all at once, otherwise they will be damaged. Dull blades can tear the vines and leaves, causing the plant to rot and die. Since older grapes have sharp growths, heavy gloves are recommended.

Advice!

Poles are needed to install supports around the bush, and ropes and wire are stretched between them. It's important to properly secure the vine before covering it for the winter. The roots and trunk are covered with spruce branches and sawdust, then the vines are lowered as close to the ground as possible and insulated with plastic film.

Types of pruning

Gardeners have different opinions on how to properly prune grapes for the winter. There are two types of pruning: spring and fall. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. Strengths of the first option:

In spring, it is worth processing grapes in regions where winter colds are moderate;
stimulation of juice secretion;
the opportunity to get more fruits.

There are more disadvantages: the sap can flood the buds, causing the plant to stop producing fruit. In the spring, the vines are soft, and pruning shears will damage their structure and cause rot. In warm weather, the crown will be difficult to shape properly because it grows rapidly. In the first months of summer, all the plant's energy will be devoted to shoot growth, leaving no energy for berries.

The autumn grape pruning scheme for beginners looks different. The benefits of pruning in October and November:

the bush is better prepared for frost;
fruiting increases;
the plant becomes more resistant to sub-zero temperatures.

There are far fewer disadvantages. These include the possibility of timing the work incorrectly, which can lead to the fragile vines breaking off. The procedure is difficult to perform in the fall, as severe frosts are common. It's impossible to work in sub-zero temperatures; frozen branches won't survive until spring.

Carrying out work

Gardeners use several methods to treat the plant. The choice of the appropriate method depends on the age of the bush. Every year, after the leaves fall, grapes should be pruned for the winter. In the first year after planting, simply removing the maturing vines is sufficient. After the cold months, new shoots with buds will emerge from the cut site.

A two-year-old plant already has several shoots. You can leave two or three, but prune off two buds on each. In the third year, significantly more lateral branches appear. The vine is fully formed. Therefore, more careful cultivation is required. Four buds should be pruned from each shoot. Otherwise, the plant will produce small fruits in small quantities.

Young bush

To ensure grape pruning produces fruit, follow a few rules. Remove only unnecessary, damaged, and dead branches. Avoid removing all shoots indiscriminately, as this will lead to poor growth and the bush drying out. Use only sharp tools that won't damage the vine.

The procedure is carried out with precise movements; it's best to practice on other plants beforehand. After pruning, the gardener must provide support for the grapes. All blossoms that formed over the summer should also be removed. One of two pruning methods is used. The first It is recommended to prune grapes correctly in the fall according to the following scheme:

1st year - only one shoot develops;
on the second one, a lateral shoot is released;
in spring, the plant develops another branch from the central trunk;
on a three-year-old bush, all shoots except the central one are cut off from the developed shoot;
4th - two short branches and one fruiting arrow remain;
On the fifth day, two branches with berries appear.

The second option involves planting a vine in the first year and growing two shoots. A two-year-old plant will produce two more shoots, which are pruned back to four buds each the following spring. These shoots sprout again in the fall, and by the fifth year, only two fruiting shoots and short branches remain.

The work is carried out in several stages. First, the bush is cleared of dried inflorescences and leaves. Then, the leaves are allowed to fall completely, after which all the nutrients are released into the central trunk. After this, the thickest branches are pruned, forming replacement branches. In the second stage, every other shoot is removed, leaving three buds on each. The replacement branch is shortened so that it has two buds. This means the bush is reduced in size by almost half.

Old grapes

Old vines should be pruned correctly in the fall, following the same pattern as young plants. First, remove all dead leaves, blossoms, and shoots, and clear the soil where new branches are forming. A fan-shaped pruning system is suitable for rejuvenating an old plant. Following this pattern, trim away any overgrown shoots that interfere with the chosen structure.

All removed branches are removed from the soil and destroyed. If they remain under the bush over the winter, it may rot. The work is carried out in stages:

all thick branches are cut back to three buds;
remove every second stem up to the fifth bud;
overdried vines are removed completely;
the rotten branch must be removed right down to the root;
the finished bush is secured with wires and ropes;
When there is a cluster of sprouts, cut off every third one up to several buds.

Important!

If several shoots have grown near the main trunk, it's best to remove them along with the roots. After this, carefully bend the vine down to the ground and cover it with plastic wrap.

Post-procedure care

After all the work, you need to carefully care for the plant. The pruning scheme is clear even for beginners, but many beginners, even following all the instructions, manage to ruin the bush due to improper care. Watering and top dressingA suitable solution can be prepared from potassium and superphosphate or boric and sulfuric acid, and iodine.

Sprinkle the liquid over every meter of soil where the grapes are growing. Then water the plant generously; don't be afraid to overwater. The bush will absorb as much moisture as it needs. Additionally protect vines from pests and diseasesFor this, you will need to purchase special products: Stron, Vectra, and Ovixel. Fundazol is used for prevention.