Characteristics and description of the tomato "Babushkino"

The Babushkino tomato can rightfully be called a favorite among gardeners, and even despite the emergence of numerous high-yielding hybrids, it always remains among the leaders.

Characteristics and description of the variety

This tomato isn't included in the State Register, but that doesn't affect its popularity. Seeds are usually purchased through collectors, and many gardeners then collect their own seeds.

The plant is distinguished by its vigor and height, so it's essential to consider support and staking immediately. One of the best options is to grow the Babushkino variety on a trellis. This indeterminate tomato grows to 2.2-2.5 meters in greenhouses.

It's typically grown outdoors in southern regions, where the plant's height may be slightly shorter. In central Russia, as well as in all northern regions, such as the Urals and Siberia, the Babushkino tomato is recommended to be grown only in plastic or polycarbonate greenhouses.

The bush has medium foliage, with small, dark green leaf blades. Up to 10-12 clusters form on a single bush, and the plant itself is usually trained into two stems.

The fruits of the Babushkino variety are round, slightly flattened, with slight ribbing near the stem. They typically weigh 300-350 grams, but some can be heavier, reaching 600-800 grams.

The skin is bright red with a pink tint. The skin is thick, and the flesh is equally thick, fleshy, and juicy. The flavor is excellent, with a very vibrant tomato aroma. Some fruits may have a slight tartness.

There are few chambers, and very few seeds (especially in the first bunches). The Babushkino variety contains a high dry matter content, so the tomatoes store well (up to two months).

Tomatoes have a variety of uses, but Babushkino tomatoes are primarily used for juices, purees, and sauces. They are delicious in salads, and small tomatoes are suitable for canning. Pickled tomatoes are delicious, and they can be canned whole (small tomatoes) or sliced.

Pros and cons of the Babushkino tomato variety

One of the greatest advantages of this tomato variety is its ease of cultivation. Everyone can grow Babushkino, and it's appreciated by both experienced gardeners and those just beginning to master the art of tomato growing.

Bred almost two decades ago, this tomato pleases with its productivity, resistance to various weather conditions and diseases, as well as its tasty fruits.

We will also add the following to the “pros”:

• versatility of use of the variety's fruits;
• excellent taste;
• resistance to temperature changes;
• resistance to recurrent frosts;
• the ability to collect your own seeds (Babushkino is a variety, not an F1 hybrid).

This variety is mid-season, with the first fruits, which are usually very large and fleshy, being harvested as early as 115-120 days after harvest. Therefore, Babushkino can be grown even in regions with short summers. A definite advantage is the fruit's shelf life and suitability for transportation. At the same time, Babushkino fruits retain their excellent flavor and maintain their marketable appearance.

The disadvantages aren't significant, but they exist. First and foremost, it's important to note that this tomato variety requires high-quality nutrition. The numerous clusters of fruit on the bush are crucially supplied with all the necessary nutrients, so nitrogen, phosphorus, and especially potassium should be present in sufficient quantities.

It's also crucial to ensure regular watering, while avoiding overwatering. According to reviews, poor watering can cause the fruit to crack. There are very few seeds inside the pulp, and while this is good for eating, it creates a problem with collecting the seeds. Typically, seeds are collected from fruits that form in the fourth or fifth cluster, not the first.

Some consider the necessity of mandatory plant shaping to be a disadvantage of the Babushkino tomato, but this is a condition for obtaining a high yield.

Some recommendations for growing the Babushkino tomato

Conventional agricultural technology involves preparing tomato seedlings, planting them in a greenhouse, and providing high-quality care.

Preparing seeds for sowing

First, you need to calculate the best time to sow Babushkino seedlings. The best time is considered to be late March or early April, but it's important to consider the specifics of your region.

In most regions, greenhouse tomatoes are planted in their permanent locations in May (mid- or late May), but adjustments are possible. For example, in the Northwest, it's best not to rush, even if tomatoes are grown under cover, otherwise you'll need to additionally protect the seedlings with covering materials.

Having decided on the timing, prepare the soil and containers where the tomatoes will be planted, and carry out all the necessary procedures with the seeds.

1. To disinfect, seeds are immersed in a solution of potassium permanganate (1-2%), while strictly maintaining the time - no more than 20 minutes.
2. Germinate in damp cloth.

You can soak the tomatoes in growth stimulants (Zircon, Epin), or an ash solution is also suitable. Some gardeners use aloe vera juice or a honey solution to stimulate tomato germination.

The soil is also prepared in advance, either by purchasing it from specialty stores or by making your own. Store-bought mixes are convenient, but it's crucial that they contain not only peat or soil but also humus and loosening agents. If the mix is ​​peat-based, river sand, humus, and soil (usually leaf mold or turf) are added.

Tomato seeds should be sown in prepared soil no earlier than 3-4 days after disinfection. You can sow them first in large seed boxes (containers), and then transplant the seedlings later.

The germination temperature for the seeds is 25ºC to 27ºC. The containers can be covered with plastic or glass. Once the first shoots appear on the Babushkino tomato, the cover is removed and the containers are exposed to light. During this period, the temperature is reduced to 17ºC to 18ºC for up to 4 days. This prevents the tomatoes from becoming too tall and helps them grow stronger.

After 4-5 days, return the temperature to between 23ºC and 25ºC, avoiding extreme fluctuations. Water the seedlings sparingly before transplanting, keeping the soil slightly moist but avoiding direct contact with the plants.

Features of diving

When grown in communal containers, or when sowing seeds in individual small pots, tomatoes require pricking out. Traditionally, this procedure involves transplanting the seedlings into larger containers and pinching out the central root. However, each gardener undertakes this independently, and usually the process is limited to transplanting.

The time to transplant tomatoes is when the seedlings have 2-3 true leaves. Don't delay transplanting, otherwise the plants may become leggy. After transplanting, lightly shield the tomatoes from bright light and avoid watering for a couple of days to help the seedlings establish and grow faster.

Caring for seedlings

Further care for windowsill tomatoes consists of maintaining optimal temperatures, watering, and fertilizing. If the seedlings are growing well and their stems are strong, fertilizing is not necessary.

If there is a need to apply fertilizer, it is best to use complex formulations that contain all the elements necessary for tomatoes.

About 10-12 days before the expected planting date, harden off the tomatoes. To do this, take them outside (to a balcony or veranda) to acclimate them to the new conditions. Initially, 15-20 minutes of hardening will be sufficient, but later the duration can be increased to several hours.

If the weather is warm in May and there are no frosts, you can move the tomatoes directly into the greenhouse, leaving them under cover for the entire day. It's still best to bring them indoors at night.

Planting the Babushkino tomato in a greenhouse

The main "helper" in determining the timing of tomato planting is air and soil temperature. At a depth of 8-10 cm, the soil should warm to +14ºC…+16ºC.

Hardened tomatoes don't pose any particular problems. The seedlings are planted in holes, and within a few days, you'll see that the plants have taken root and are actively growing. The planting pattern for the Babushkino variety is 80 x 50 cm, and it's recommended to maintain these spacings.

Water the holes, add a handful of compost and a spoonful of ash or superphosphate, mix everything together, and then plant the tomato. Cover the roots with soil and compact it. It's best to use mulch (grass or peat), as this way the plants can be mulched immediately.

The bushes are not watered for about 5-6 days, and then traditional care begins.

Greenhouse growing: recommendations

The Babushkino tomato requires regular and generous watering. In a greenhouse, this is usually done twice a week, depending on the plant's condition and weather conditions. It's important to avoid overwatering the soil, so mulch and ventilate the greenhouse. Tomatoes thrive in drafts, so on hot days, it's recommended to leave the vents and greenhouse doors open, even at night.

For top dressing, use mullein diluted in water (1:20) and complex fertilizers (such as nitrophoska). The first top dressing should be applied no earlier than 18 days after planting, with subsequent applications occurring approximately 10-14 days later. Potassium fertilizers are added to the second top dressing, and potassium and phosphorus to the third.

To increase yield, tomato plants can be sprayed with iodine-containing compounds (during flowering) and boric acid. Dusting the soil with ash provides additional nutrition for the plants and protects against disease.

As already noted, this tomato is trained into two stems. Side shoots are removed, and all lower leaves (down to the first cluster) are also removed from the stem. This is done gradually to avoid stressing the plants.

The fruits are harvested both when they're already ripe and when they're still green. This variety ripens well indoors, and timely harvesting also allows other fruits to grow faster.

When planning to harvest seeds from a plant, the fruits are left on the bush (at the fourth or fifth cluster) to fully ripen. They are then picked, ripened, and the seeds are extracted from the pulp.

Reviews of the Babushkino tomato

Galina, Vladimir

I read a lot about this tomato on various forums and decided to order some seeds. They came from Redko, so I planted them in the greenhouse. They're a very productive tomato and don't get sick. Last year, I had late blight, but Babushkino didn't have a problem! Not a single plant even got sick, which made me very happy. It has a normal, tomato-like flavor. We ate it in salads, and I use other tomatoes for preserves. I'm planting it again this year, using my own seeds.

Marina, Leningrad Oblast

A neighbor gave me the seeds and raved about the variety. Now I've fallen in love with it too. The bush is vigorous; in my greenhouse, it grew with two stems (though it probably should have had three), and it's grown almost two meters tall. The fruits are round, raspberry-red, weighing about 350 grams each. They turned out very uniform. They're fleshy and incredibly sweet. Each cluster had four or five fruits. I'm planting them again; if everything is the same, this is definitely my tomato.

Love, Podolsk

I really love this tomato variety. And even though it has one drawback—yellow shoulders (I can't get rid of them), I still grow Babushkino (up to 10 plants every year). I've been chasing it for a long time, really wanting to try it and see how sweet it is. Yes, it really is a sweet tomato, and yet mine always turn out scarlet, not red. It's a very good variety; I've been growing it for six years now. I'm not going to give it up.