Characteristics and description of the tomato "Dina"

Tomatoes

The advantage of determinate tomato varieties like 'Dina' is their compact growth habit, coupled with relatively high yields. But how can you achieve good results?

The answer can only be found by reading the characteristics and description of the variety.

Description of tomatoes "Dina"

If a tomato variety is described as "determinate," it means the bushes have limited growth and do not require pinching at the stem tip. The average height of "Dina" tomato bushes ranges from 50 cm to 1 m. The bushes require training; best results are achieved by forcing the bush into 3-4 stems. The bushes produce medium-sized leaves. Up to 4-5 flowers form in a single inflorescence. The first inflorescence appears after the 6th or 7th leaf, with the remaining flowers forming after each pair of leaves. "Dina" tomatoes are considered a mid-early variety, with the first tomatoes appearing 110-115 days after sowing.

Dina tomatoes are a rich orange color and weigh an average of 100 to 150 grams. Approximately 4-5 small chambers for seeds form inside the fruit. The flesh is juicy and rich in vitamins and microelements. Furthermore, the tomatoes' sufficient density allows them to withstand long transportation and can be stored for a certain period before consumption. The yield per bush is approximately 4-5 kg.

Dina tomatoes thrive in both greenhouses and open ground, and are zoned for virtually all regions of Russia in the mid- and southern latitudes. The variety has also become widespread in other post-Soviet countries, including Ukraine, Belarus, and Moldova. Dina tomatoes are officially listed in the register of vegetable varieties of the Russian Federation.

The main advantages and disadvantages of the variety

The valuable characteristics of the Dina variety, which gardeners attribute to its advantages, include:

  • the average maturity period allows it to ripen in the Russian climate;
  • Tomatoes have an original color, partly due to the high content of carotene;
  • the fruits are medium-sized, smooth, with shiny skin, and have an excellent marketable appearance;
  • the fruits are transportable and resistant to physical damage;
  • The variety is considered high-yielding.

The disadvantages of the "Dina" tomato include poor resistance to late blight and watery rot. However, these shortcomings are easily compensated for by following proper agricultural practices and preventative treatments.

Agricultural technology of tomatoes "Dina"

Caring for tomatoes isn't particularly difficult; however, it requires strict adherence to all technical requirements. The main steps in growing tomatoes include preparing the planting site, seed treatment, preparing the soil mixture for seedlings, caring for the seedlings, and planting them in the ground. This is followed by care until harvest.

Preparing a landing site

This issue is especially acute in small gardens and homesteads, where it's difficult to adhere to all the principles of crop rotation. It's long been known that tomatoes are strongly discouraged from being planted after potatoes, peppers, zucchini, and eggplant. At the same time, tomatoes perform well if they were preceded by grains, legumes, root vegetables, cucumbers, cabbage, and other non-nightshade vegetables.

Important! Following crop rotation rules helps prevent diseases and protects the soil from depletion.

However, even small plots can be made to last by using the following trick. At the end of the season, after the harvest, the plot is dug or plowed, then sown with green manure—grasses or grains, the green mass of which is later used as green manure. In the winter, the grown grass mass is plowed under. This fertilizes the soil, and the tomatoes receive the right precursor.

If crop rotation is successful, it's best to incorporate compost, chicken manure, weed compost, and other organic matter (sawdust, vegetable peelings, etc.) into the soil. Compost preparations like Baikal, which work by inducing beneficial microorganisms to accelerate the decomposition of organic matter, can speed up the process.

In addition, the area for the future tomato plantation must be illuminated, have sufficient air access, and a source of irrigation.

Seed treatment

An equally important procedure is seed treatment, which prevents diseases at the seedling stage, builds the immunity of future plants, and accumulates energy for good germination. At this stage, the seeds are disinfected and treated with a growth stimulant.

Disinfection is the process of disinfecting seeds. The most common solution is a solution of potassium permanganate containing 2% of the active ingredient, in which the seeds are soaked for 20-30 minutes. A more modern treatment involves soaking them in a fungicide solution. Agat-25 is considered ideal for this purpose, as it not only has fungicidal properties but also stimulates seed germination. This results in a 2-in-1 treatment. A working solution of Agat-25 is prepared at a rate of 7 grams per liter of water, which is sufficient for treating half a kilo of seeds.

Zircon is also recommended as a tomato growth stimulant. Just 2 drops of Zircon per 0.1 liter of water prepares a working solution in which the seeds are soaked for 3 to 6 hours. After treatment with the growth stimulant, the seeds are not washed but rather thoroughly dried on a windowsill.

Preparing a soil mixture for seedlings

Of the many recipes for mixing components for tomato seedlings, the following is suggested. Mix equal parts of peat, sod soil, humus, and sawdust scalded with boiling water. For 10 liters of this mixture, add one and a half cups of wood ash, 3 tablespoons of superphosphate, 2 tablespoons of potassium sulfate, and a tablespoon of urea.

The soil also requires mandatory disinfection, as it will likely contain pest larvae and spores. Thermal and chemical treatment methods are used, namely:

  1. Freezing. The prepared mixture is kept in the cold for 5 days. Then, a little trick is used: placing the bags of soil in a warm room, which awakens the pests. They are kept in the warm room for 1-2 days and then taken out into the cold again. This cycle is repeated several times over the course of a month or two.
  2. Calcination. Bags containing soil are placed in an oven at a temperature of up to 90ºC for 30 minutes.
  3. Steaming. Place bags of soil in a steam bath for 30-40 minutes. The bag should be small enough to allow the soil to be steamed.
  4. Fungicide treatment. Treat the soil with a working solution of any tomato fungicide: Quadris, Ridomil, or Agat, which stimulate seed growth.

Sowing seeds

The seedling soil is distributed among the pots. Immediately before sowing, the soil is loosened and watered with warm water. The seeds should be planted no more than 2 cm deep, otherwise they risk not germinating. The seeded pots are covered with plastic wrap to speed germination.

Important! Sow seeds for seedlings no earlier than 60-65 days before planting.

Caring for seedlings

The first shoots will appear in 7-10 days. It's important to keep the soil from drying out and water regularly. The seedlings can be fed with a superphosphate solution (4 g per bucket of water), which will strengthen the root and immune systems of the seedlings. The shoots are pricked out after the second leaf appears, distributing them among different containers and planting them slightly deeper.

It's recommended to extend daylight hours by equipping the seedling room with fluorescent lamps. Two weeks before planting, harden off the seedlings by placing the pots on the balcony or in the fresh air. Harden off the seedlings for anywhere from half an hour to several hours.

Planting in open ground and caring for seedlings

Based on the local climate, 'Dina' tomato seedlings are planted in the second half of May or first half of June. The plot is cleared of weeds and loosened beforehand. The seedlings are planted at a 40x60 cm pattern; it is recommended to dig the holes in a staggered pattern to optimize space utilization.

The holes should be about 12 cm deep. Add a cup of compost or ash to each hole, water with warm water, plant the seedling, and cover with soil. Mulch the area around the bush with sawdust.

After two weeks, when the seedlings have established themselves, begin forming the bushes. It's best to leave 3-4 stems per bush, removing weak shoots and any leaflets at the base of the leaves that have formed below the level of the first buds.

The bushes are watered a couple of times a week, reducing the frequency during rain or cold weather. Fertilize twice with mullein infusion. The solution is prepared at a 1:10 ratio and left for 3-5 days, then poured into the row spacing at a rate of 1 bucket per square meter. Weed the beds as needed.

Diseases and pests

The "Dina" variety is generally resistant to tomato diseases, but is susceptible to late blight and watery rot. To combat late blight, treat the bushes with Quadris and Ridomil, preparing solutions according to the instructions. Quadris effectively stops the spread of the disease, while Ridomil helps consolidate the results. A solution of Bordeaux mixture, applied to the bushes, is effective against watery rot.

Products such as Confidor Maxi, Proteus, and others will help against Colorado potato beetles, spider mites, and aphids.

Conclusions

The Dina tomato is a high-yielding variety whose characteristics guarantee its popularity not only among gardeners but also among farmers. It stores and transports well, and its flavor makes it a popular choice among consumers.

Reviews

Marina, Saratov

I've been growing Dina tomatoes for several years now. I've tried both open ground and greenhouse cultivation. I've found that greenhouse yields are higher, reaching 5-6 kg per plant. Despite their short stature, the plants need to be staked to prevent them from becoming infected with late blight.

 

Victoria, Tver

Timely fertilization is crucial for cultivating the Dina variety. To establish the root system, I add 5 grams of ammonium phosphate to the seedlings when planting. Before flowering, I water the beds with a compost solution (1 part compost to 9 parts water). Once the ovaries have formed, I add a solution of 4-5 grams of potassium superphosphate per bucket of water.

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