Characteristics and description of the tomato "Fifty"

Gardeners looking for a large harvest of delicious tomatoes as early as June should consider the Fifty variety: easy to care for, it will treat the whole family to fresh, plump fruits by early summer.

Characteristics of the variety

The Fifty variety is included in the State Register of the Russian Federation for cultivation in private farms and is recommended for cultivation in southern regions with hot summers. However, it can also be grown in temperate climates, but under plastic cover.

This tomato variety is considered early-ripening: the time from first germination to ripening is 95-100 days. The plant is low-growing (reaching a height of 60-70 cm), vigorous, and spreading. The foliage is medium-sized and green.

The inflorescences are simple, the first inflorescence is formed above the 5-6 leaf, and all subsequent ones - after 1-2 leaves.

The Fifty variety shows excellent yield: up to 14 kg of ripe fruit can be obtained from 1 m2.

Characteristics of fruits

The fruits are characterized by their small size, rounded teardrop shape, and a pointed tip. The average tomato weight is 150 g. The flesh is juicy with a pleasant tomato tartness, and the skin is firm and smooth. The crop easily withstands transportation and long-term storage.

Fifty tomatoes are perfect for canning and winter preparations, but they are also very good fresh in salads.

When overripe, the core of the fruit becomes multi-chambered.

Advantages of the variety

• harmonious sweet taste;
• high yield;
• unpretentiousness in care during the growing season;
• heat resistance;
• simultaneous (friendly) ripening of tomatoes;
• long-term storage after harvest;
• versatility of use;
• due to the low growth, a film cover is sufficient;
• resistant to diseases such as tomato mosaic, fusarium, blossom end and root rot.

Agricultural technology of cultivation

The Fifty tomato variety is unpretentious, but if you follow all the planting and care rules, you can still get an excellent harvest and save yourself from additional hassle.

Preparing seeds for sowing

Before sowing, the seeds need to be germinated. To do this, wrap the seedlings in a damp cloth and leave them for several days.

Now the sprouted seeds need to be disinfected: prepare a weak solution of potassium permanganate and soak the planting material in it for half an hour.

And at the final stage of preparation, it is advisable to keep the seeds in a growth stimulator.

Sowing seeds

A week before sowing the seeds, prepare the soil to ensure it's loose. To achieve this, add peat and loosen it thoroughly. To prevent fungal spores from infecting the planting soil, it's a good idea to treat it with Fitosporin.

Next, prepare small pots and fill them tightly with fertile soil. Make 2-cm-deep holes in the soil and sow the seeds loosely. Cover the seeds with soil and moisten the soil with room-temperature water from a spray bottle.

Cover the pots with a transparent material (polyethylene or glass) and leave them in a warm, sunny spot. Remove the covering for a short time every day to allow the soil to air out and moisten it if necessary. As soon as the first shoots appear, remove the covering completely.

Picking seedlings

When the sprouts develop two leaves, they need to be pricked out, meaning planted farther apart. This will allow the root system to strengthen and develop normally.

Prepare small containers, such as plastic cups, and fill them with soil. Dig holes in the soil and transplant the seedlings into them, along with clumps of soil attached to their roots. Lightly compact the soil and water the roots with warm water.

Place the container back in a warm, well-lit room and regularly moisten the soil with water at room temperature.

Two weeks before planting, harden off the seedlings by taking them outside every day for a few hours. This will protect the plants from various diseases and strengthen the tomato plants' immunity.

Planting seedlings in open ground

In a garden bed or greenhouse, prepare planting holes in advance. They are spaced 25 cm apart. The distance between rows should be approximately 70 cm. Gently pry the plants up with a knife or other handy tool and remove them along with the soil ball. They are transplanted into the prepared hole, filled with soil, and lightly compacted. Finally, be sure to water the roots with room-temperature water.

Pinching out bushes

The Fifty tomato variety can be trained into one or two main stems. A second stem is needed in case the first stem dies.

When the bush has formed 3-4 clusters, you can form a second stem. To do this, select the strongest shoot and pinch off the others.

The second and all subsequent stepsons are formed through 1-2 inflorescences.

It's not recommended to train plants into two stems at once, as this significantly slows down plant development and impacts the quality of the harvest. It's best to strengthen the plants first before loading them with fruit.

Caring for seedlings

After planting the seedlings in open ground, further care is not difficult and consists of regular watering, fertilizing four times a day, weeding, and pest and disease control.

Weeding and loosening

The soil around the bushes should be loosened and weeded periodically—this will improve oxygen access to the root system. Weeding is best done during rainy weather, as this will allow excess moisture to evaporate.

Watering

The plant should be watered at least once every 5 days. The water should never be cold, but only at room temperature.

During the initial growing stage, avoid over-watering the soil, as this can cause root diseases. However, don't delay watering either, as over-dried soil can promote late blight.

Top dressing

Tomatoes require nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus mineral fertilizers. These are applied in the following order.

When planting seedlings in the garden bed, it is advisable to fertilize the prepared holes with wood ash or Nitrophoska, and after filling with soil, mulch with straw or hay.

Two weeks after transplanting, the soil is fertilized with potassium fertilizers.

A month later, during the growing season, nitrogen fertilizers are applied.

At the beginning of fruit setting, the soil is fertilized with phosphorus fertilizers.

Tomato diseases and their control

The Fifty variety is resistant to many diseases, but additional preventative measures can protect young seedlings from a number of common ailments.

To avoid fungal infections, 2 weeks after planting the seedlings in the garden, it is advisable to treat the plants with copper-containing preparations: 70 g of "Ordan" or "Kurzat R" per 10 liters of water.

Extrasol-55 can also help protect your crop. A 1% solution is sprayed on bushes during bud ripening, during flowering, and during fruit set.

In addition to preventing fungal and bacterial diseases, it's important to take protective measures against pests and insects. In this case, insecticides such as Avant, Regent, Fastak, and Fury can be used. These treatments should be carried out every two weeks.

Tick ​​control is becoming increasingly important year after year. Acaricides such as Clipper, Fitoverm, and Omite can be used against this pest.

Reviews

Reviews from gardeners growing this variety in their backyards indicate that the Fifty tomato is very productive. In central Russia, it's best to grow this variety in greenhouses, as it grows slowly in open ground. The tomato's flavor is rated a solid A+.