How to cover roses for the winter in the Moscow region?

The weather in the Moscow region in late autumn and early spring is quite capricious and changeable, with sudden temperature fluctuations and alternating thaws and frosts. Winter also brings its own surprises, in the form of so-called "black frosts," when temperatures plummet to -10 degrees Celsius or lower without any snow. This has a detrimental effect on roses. Our task is to create conditions for them to survive the cold comfortably. How do you cover roses for the winter in the Moscow region, and what is the best method?

Let's start preparing flowers for winter

If you ask the question when you need to prepare roses for winter, then you need to start in the summer, in July-August.

However, this question should be raised much earlier, when purchasing seedlings. Every gardener should know that preparing bushes for winter is a labor-intensive and demanding process, as this plant is native to the south. Most bushes tolerate temperatures ranging from -4 to -7 degrees Celsius (-4 to -7 degrees Fahrenheit), but to preserve the bush in more severe frosts, certain conditions must be created.

If you're not up for such painstaking work, it's better to buy frost-hardy varieties bred in Canada. They were bred specifically for freezing winters and can withstand temperatures down to -30 degrees Celsius. But even they require shelter.

The first stage of preparation for winter

This involves stopping nitrogen-containing fertilizers as early as early July. This is done to prevent the bushes from forming new shoots for flowering. Only potassium and phosphorus fertilizers are recommended.

In mid-September, potassium magnesium sulfate is added. Potassium stimulates root growth, while magnesium stimulates shoot formation and future flowering.

Experienced gardeners do not recommend cutting off faded flower buds that have formed small fruits. This can trigger the awakening of dormant buds and signal growth.

The second stage of preparation

In September, you can begin trimming the foliage gradually, starting from the bottom. Since this takes quite a long time, it's best to do it gradually. At the same time, prepare dry soil for hilling the plants.

For this purpose, choose a warm, dry day and fill the bags with fertile, dry soil from other fertile areas. If the autumn is warm enough, don't rush to cover the bushes. The bush may rot under a layer of insulation. The optimal temperature for covering is -5°C (5°F), which coincides with the first frost.

It's important for the plant to have a dry shelter and the soil around it while hilling and preparing it for winter. For this purpose, a special shelter is built over the rose garden during rainy weather.

Read also:

• When to sow petunias for seedlings in 2017?
• Getting rid of powdery mildew on roses

Pruning the bush in late autumn before covering

The third, no less important stage, is pruning the rose.

Why is it done:

• improve the health of the bush;
• form a plant of the correct shape;
• rejuvenate by removing old, unnecessary and weak shoots;
• The bushes are thinned out to allow ventilation and access to sunlight.

To prune a rose, you'll need good weather, sharp pruning shears, rubber gloves, and patience. It's a good idea to remove all remaining foliage from the bush beforehand to prevent it from rotting and creating a breeding ground for disease.

Of course, this is problematic with climbing roses. Therefore, they are treated with copper-based or iron-containing fungicides before planting.

The gardener himself decides which type of pruning to choose:

1. Strong (short). Leave 2-3 buds and cut them at an angle, one centimeter from the last one.
2. Medium, from 8 to 10 buds.
3. Gentle (long), only 10 cm of the tops are cut off.

The method of pruning roses before winterizing them in the Moscow region depends on the rose variety and the gardener's preferences. For example, small groundcover rose bushes are only thinned out, not pruned.

When pruning, leave 5 to 7 woody shoots and remove young, bark-less shoots. Young shoots often begin to emerge from within the bush. These should be cut deep to the root. Old, dried-out shoots with cracked bark are also removed.

The fourth stage of preparing the bush for winter

Once the leaves have been removed and the bush pruned, preparatory work must be carried out. This includes the following:

1. The remaining leaves and branches are removed and burned to destroy any potential sources of infection.
2. Destroy all weeds by the roots.
3. The soil is dug around the perimeter of the bush.
4. Add a small amount of granular fertilizer by sprinkling it on top.

Only then do they prepare to cover the bush. To avoid breaking the bush, bend the branches gradually. Various types of clamps are used for this purpose: hooks made from bent rebar, welding electrodes, or greenhouse arches.

Important! The branches of the bush need to be bent in the direction of the rose graft.

Methods for covering roses for the winter

Gardeners in the Moscow region have a wide range of opinions on this matter. Many have tried several methods and, through trial and error, have determined the best one for them.

What to focus on:

1. On soil composition and moisture. If the groundwater level is shallow, sawdust and loose soil can absorb moisture and freeze during freezing temperatures. This will lead to partial or complete death of the plant.
2. On the varieties of roses. Plants with delicate cream, white, and pink flowers are most susceptible to cold. Red roses are more winter-hardy. Some Canadian, American, Dutch, and domestic varieties have been bred specifically for regions with harsh climates.
3. On the age and condition of the bush. It is clear that plants that have survived more than one winter are more resistant to cold.

Basic methods of shelter

In this regard, gardeners demonstrate their Russian ingenuity and resourcefulness, especially in choosing the right materials. Some use old tires for soil. They make umbrellas, cover the soil with perforated plastic boxes, and create special boxes.

Use shelter:

• earth and sawdust;
• spruce branches;
• air-dry covering with non-woven materials.

Garden stores also offer a wide selection of frames. However, most rose growers use construction nets, homemade greenhouse arches, and so on.

Earth, sawdust, spruce branches

Mix the previously prepared dry soil, peat, sand, and sawdust and sprinkle it around the root zone of the bush. On average, one bucket of the mixture is needed per bush. Dry leaves can be used as a cover, preferably oak leaves because they don't rot. In November, when the first frosts arrive, cover the bush with spruce branches. During the winter, snow is piled on top.

An alternative to this method is wrapping the plant in non-woven insulating materials, burlap, or straw. After hilling and sprinkling the bush with the mixture, wrap it in these materials and tie it loosely with twine or rope. This method is best suited for bushes with stiff stems that are difficult to bend, or for plants that are pruned sparingly.

The most common method is air-drying.

How to cover roses for the winter in the Moscow region using covering material, using the method that has proven itself best in this region.

Polypropylene fiber material does not allow water droplets to pass through, but it "breathes," absorbing and releasing vapor. This prevents the plant from becoming overheated inside the box. At the same time, it provides a good barrier against the cold. Non-woven material varies in thickness and name, depending on the manufacturer (spunbond, agril, etc.). On average, it lasts 4-5 seasons.

The method is as follows

After preliminary preparation has been carried out: pruning, digging, hilling, sprinkling the roots, bending the branches, a protective frame is installed.

This could be:

• a special umbrella for each bush separately;
• frame made of construction metal mesh;
• from greenhouse arches;
• wooden shield, etc.

On top it is covered with non-woven insulation, which is attached to the ground using pins and loops, the edges are sprinkled with earth, and boards or heavy stones are laid.

Before the first frost, it's best to leave one side open to allow for natural ventilation. With this cover, the average temperature inside stays between -3 and -4 degrees Celsius. If snow falls, it will provide an additional layer of protection from the cold.

Every gardener should know all the ways to protect roses for the winter in the Moscow region (see photos and descriptions in the article) so that the "queen of flowers" will delight you with its beauty for a long time to come!