Step-by-step instructions for preparing hydrangeas for winter and methods for covering flowers

Not all hydrangea varieties require winter shelter. Only varieties that produce flower buds on their branches in the fall (large-leaved varieties) require additional insulation. Providing additional insulation is a must for gardeners living in cold regions. Steps preparing the bush for winter They involve several procedures, including pruning and fertilizing. When creating reliable protection, it's important to choose the right materials, otherwise the protection will be insufficient or excessive, and the crop will freeze or rot.

Features of wintering of different varieties

These plants can be found in garden plots in the southern regions of Russia and in the central part of the country. The harsh climate of the Urals and Siberia is unsuitable for growing these plants. There, the bush freezes in winter even with cover. Generally, the cultivation methods for this beautiful flowering shrub are simple, but certain rules must be followed. Some varieties require covering in the fall, otherwise the flower buds will freeze, the buds will not form, and flowering will not occur. A significant drop in temperature will cause the plant to die.

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The most well-known hydrangeas are the large-leaved and paniculate hydrangeas. Other varieties are less common in Russia. Overwintering requirements vary significantly among different cultivars:

1. Tree-like and Paniculate - tolerate frosts, quickly recover and begin to grow in early spring;
2. Large-leaved hydrangeas are not known for their tolerance to low temperatures. The plant's characteristic feature is that it blooms on old branches, which are susceptible to frost. To protect the newly formed buds from frost, it should be covered for the winter.
3. Groundcover or Himalayan - a winter-hardy variety that can grow in the Volga region, and when organized high-quality protection in Siberia and in the Urals.
4. Oakleaf is a capricious variety with minimal cold tolerance. It is recommended for growing in southern Russia and Crimea. It requires protection during sudden cold snaps and winters with little snow.
5. Petiolate is frost-resistant and does not require additional protection; the main thing is to properly prepare the plant for the dormant period in the fall.

Paniculata, petiolate and tree hydrangeas

Tree, paniculate, and petiolate hydrangeas require no additional cover during the winter. These plants tolerate low temperatures well. A characteristic feature of their growing season is that flowering occurs on young shoots, so spring pruning to remove frozen areas is beneficial.

The petiolate variety grows on a special support, which should not be removed for the winter. The vine overwinters easily on supports without freezing. Only young bushes, 1-2 years old, require protection. The shoots can simply be laid on the ground. Additional covering is not necessary, as this will reduce their natural frost resistance. This may seem simple when the vine is young, but after a few years, it will become labor-intensive.

Bigleaf hydrangea

Paniculata hydrangea requires additional frost protection. This requirement is related to the specific flowering habit of the plant. It's important to preserve the tips of last year's shoots; pruning them is unacceptable if they are frost-damaged. If the plant loses some of its branches, it will not bloom profusely in the coming season. There are varieties with increased frost resistance: Endles Summer Bloomster (pink) and Endles Summer Original (blue).

Deadlines for completion of work

Hydrangeas in the garden should be covered for the winter before the onset of frost. The timing may vary depending on weather conditions and the regional climate. In the south, cold weather sets in in mid- to late October, and in the central part of the country, it's usually by the end of September, so it's best to follow temperature readings. It's best to insulate the plant early, after the temperature drops to -1°C (33°F).

Suitable materials

To cover large-leaved hydrangeas in the garden for the winter, various materials are used, either individually or in combination. This is because even a mature 3-4-year-old bush is sensitive to subzero temperatures. In the Moscow region and other regions of central Russia, the soil can freeze to a depth of more than 1 meter. The main purpose of covering is to prevent sudden temperature fluctuations, ensuring a smooth transition into winter.

Leaves

Covering the plant with leaves alone is not recommended, as this will not provide adequate thermal insulation. A layer of spruce branches, non-woven fabric, or burlap should be placed over such a cover. Using plastic film is not recommended, as the plant will rot if the outside temperature rises above 2°C (33°F).

Leaves from fruit trees and shrubs collected in the garden should not be used for protection. This is because they rot over the winter, rendering the necessary thermal insulation useless. Furthermore, their surface may harbor pests and fungal spores, which can pose a threat to flowering plants. Dry leaves from maple or chestnut trees are better for cover.

spruce branches

Spruce branches can provide adequate winter protection for plants, but they must be applied properly. This work can be done after completely removing leaves from the branches and underneath the bush. It's best to first cover the plant with plastic film and then lay branches on top for security. Another option is to place the branches directly on the bush and then cover them with a thick layer of peat. Alternatively, you can use regular boards of medium thickness instead of spruce branches.

Spunbond

To protect plants from frost in the garden, spunbond and lutrasil are used. These are special breathable films. Supports are used to create the cover, and the material is secured to them. The advantage of this method is that layers of material can be added gradually. At the first slight cold snap, hydrangeas are covered with one layer of spunbond, and insulation (up to four layers) is added as needed.

Sackcloth

Hydrangeas can be protected from frost for the winter with burlap. It's recommended to use 2-3 layers of burlap, as it may not be thick enough. This design is optimal for the first cold snaps; after significant frosts, drape a plastic sheet over the hydrangea, leaving a few holes at the base for ventilation. Remove the protection in the spring when the nighttime temperature reaches at least -5°C (23°F).

Film

Using film to protect against frost is not recommended. This is because condensation can form underneath it due to insufficient ventilation. The lack of a constant supply of oxygen is detrimental to plant health, especially during warmer weather in mid-winter. If temperatures rise sharply, the shelter will need to be constantly ventilated.

Organizing a shelter step by step

Depending on the material chosen, the shelter setup procedure will vary slightly. The general step-by-step instructions are as follows:

1. The remaining leaves are cut off from the plant and the inflorescences are removed. The branches of the bush themselves are damaged as little as possible.
2. The shoots are bent to the ground and secured with special pins. If the bush is large, it is bent in different directions, directing the aboveground mass to the right and left.
3. The central part of the plant (the trunk area) is mulched with peat, fallen pine needles, or leaves. The mulch is laid in a 20 cm layer.
4. The hydrangea is covered with peat or fallen leaves on top. Next, spruce branches or other covering material are placed.

If a lightweight material is used as the top layer, it is additionally pinned to the ground and weighed down with bricks or boards. This method is used to protect delicate, large-leaved hydrangeas from frost. For other varieties, this step is optional; simply mulching the area around the trunk is sufficient to protect the root system from soil freezing.

List of mandatory autumn procedures

You can't simply insulate a plant before the onset of frost. It must be prepared for winter dormancy, otherwise the plant's growth will be impaired next season. The list of procedures to be carried out in the fall includes:

1. Autumn fertilization. Fertilizers are applied under each bush before the cold weather sets in. It's best to use formulations with higher potassium and phosphorus content. Nitrogen is not applied before winter, as this component can stimulate active growth of green mass.
2. Watering. Supplemental soil moisture is discontinued in early September; before that, the shrub is watered generously.
3. Fall pruning is a necessary preparation step. This involves removing leaves from the hydrangea bush and trimming broken and dry branches.

After completing all of the above steps, before creating a secure shelter, the soil beneath the plant must be thoroughly cleaned. It's important to remove all plant debris, as it can harbor disease and pests that will overwinter and actively reproduce. These pests will reappear in the spring and affect the plant's growth.

Recovery after wintering

Don't remove the cover immediately after the first warm days. It's best to wait until all the snow has melted to avoid sunburn. Acclimate the plant to outdoor temperatures gradually after covering, removing the cover partially. When the weather first warms, remove the protective film to prevent the plant from rotting under the cover.

After a steady warming period, which begins in the Moscow region and central Russia in early May, the protective cover can be removed completely. This work should be done on a cloudy day to minimize the plant's exposure to sunlight. If the soil beneath the bush is dry, it can be watered with warm water mixed with citric acid. After these steps, the bush is inspected, treated for pests, and any dead branches are trimmed.

In the Moscow and Leningrad regions, winter protection for hydrangeas is necessary, but this only applies to the large-leaved variety. Other varieties tolerate frost well, thrive, and bloom the following season. Planting large-leaved hydrangeas is not recommended in Siberia and the Urals. Residents of these regions are better off choosing petiolate, arborescent, or paniculate varieties with increased cold tolerance. However, the plants will not tolerate significant frost and will require protection.