Caring for tomatoes after planting in a greenhouse

Caring for tomatoes after planting them in a greenhouse has its own secrets, which we'll share with you. The difference lies in the unique microclimate that exists in a greenhouse, so these nuances must be carefully considered if you want to reap a good harvest from your plantings, delight your family with delicious, vibrant fruits, and store them for winter use.

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Conditions for growing greenhouse tomatoes

A greenhouse certainly creates the most favorable conditions for harvesting, but its microclimate is also favorable for all sorts of pathogenic bacteria, which also thrive in this environment. Therefore, we must be vigilant and adhere to the conditions.

First, practice crop rotation. If you grew tomatoes last year, plant cucumbers this year, and vice versa. At least some sort of crop rotation will be maintained.
If your greenhouse is spacious enough, you can grow several varieties of vegetables that get along well with each other. Tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers are quite friendly with each other and can be grown together. Cucumbers don't get along as well, so it's best not to combine them with tomatoes.

Ventilation is essential. Create several windows, and periodically lift the film on similar days. Tomatoes love ventilation; stagnant moisture is harmful, but they don't mind drafts at all. They only fear frost and excessive humidity, which directly leads to late blight.

Soil preparation is crucial. Start preparing it about 10 days before planting the seedlings. Remove the top layer of soil and apply potassium permanganate to the soil to eliminate any diseases from previous plants.

Good soil, sufficient lighting, moderate moisture with the right fertilizers are the key to a good harvest.

If you've decided to plant some potatoes at the same time, you might be interested in: Growing potatoes wisely without weeding or hilling.

When to plant seedlings

In southern regions, you can transplant seedlings into greenhouses in May. In northern regions, where summers are short, start a month or two earlier to allow the tomatoes to ripen before the cold weather sets in. If you're growing your own seedlings, remember: for early-ripening varieties, plant them as early as late March; for mid-season varieties, early March is best; for late-ripening varieties, February is best.

Warm the soil by covering it with black plastic or by watering it with hot water before planting. Cold soil will prevent proper root development; roots may rot, and you won't get proper fruit. It's also not recommended to plant the plants too deeply, as the roots will begin to sprout side shoots, and the plant will stop growing.

When fertilizing, avoid large amounts of nitrogen, which drives away the tops, instead of focusing all your energy on the development of fruits.

Planting tomato seedlings

After transplanting the seedlings to their new location, leave them alone for the first week to establish themselves, then begin watering and fertilizing. Until the plants bloom, water every 5 days; 1 bucket of water per 2 square meters is sufficient. Once they bloom, increase watering to 2 buckets per 2 square meters. It's better to water early in the morning than in the evening. This will prevent condensation from settling on the foliage, which is harmful to the plants. After 2 hours, open the greenhouse and ventilate.

A week after the first watering, begin staking the plants. Watch for unwanted side shoots and remove them promptly to avoid overcrowding the bush. It's best to remove side shoots in the morning; this will allow the wounds to heal by evening, preventing any harm to the plant.

After two weeks, the first feeding is needed. A half-liter jar of mullein and a spoonful of nitrophoska per bucket of water will be just right; carefully pour a liter of this beneficial mixture under each plant. After 10 days, repeat the feeding with this mixture: add a spoonful of "Fertility" fertilizer to a bucket of water, mixed with a teaspoon of potassium sulfate. Two more similar feedings during the season, and your tomatoes, assuming all other conditions are met, will grow to your delight and delight you with a bountiful harvest.

Pollination of tomatoes

The greenhouse must be opened on fine days not only for ventilation but also for the bees, without whom pollination will not occur, and all your efforts will be in vain. If the bees are reluctant to fly to your greenhouse plants, you can hang a jar of sweet water, honey, or jam by the entrance. The bees will be drawn to the sweets and, at the same time, will pollinate your tomatoes. To increase fruit set, spray the plants with a 10% boric acid solution, not only on the leaves but also on the flowers. You can also promote pollination by gently shaking the plants, then spraying them with water to attract pollen, and then opening the greenhouse for ventilation.

By following these tips, you're sure to get a great harvest. Good luck!
See also - Tomatoes in a polycarbonate greenhouse: planting and care.