Features of growing and caring for chokeberry

Trees

Aronia, also known as rowan or black chokeberry, is a member of the Rosaceae family and is easy to plant and care for. It grows as a bush or, less commonly, a tree. The only thing this easy-to-grow tree has in common with the common rowan is that it belongs to the same family. It can be planted in the garden at various times (in the spring, when the weather becomes consistently warm, and in the fall, a month before the cold weather sets in). This fruit-bearing and ornamental plant tolerates pruning and occasional fertilizing well. Thanks to its numerous propagation methods, it is grown everywhere.

Planting black chokeberry

The first step in growing a crop. If you plant the black chokeberry correctly (fall or spring makes no difference), it will quickly take root, grow, and within a short time begin producing a harvest of healthy berries. Since the plant is undemanding regarding soil composition, attention should be paid to light levels and soil acidity.

Choosing a location

Chokeberries grow well in both sandy and loamy soils. However, in the latter, they will bloom more profusely, meaning fruiting will be more abundant and prolonged. Before planting, the compacted soil should be drained and loosened. Sand and compost are the main tools. They are added during tillage, after removing any remaining weeds. The site should be illuminated throughout the day and protected from drafts. Since the chokeberry's root system is shallow, the groundwater table may be close. It is important to avoid planting in saline soils. Development will be stunted, and the seedling will quickly wither.

Deadlines

Shrubs and trees of all crops are typically planted in spring or fall. Aronia is no exception. It thrives even after spring planting. However, during this time, the plant expends considerable energy not only on rooting but also on developing foliage. Planting chokeberries in the fall allows the plant to focus all its energy on growing underground and enter the winter with a strong immune system.

Favorable neighborhood

The main factor influencing the choice of a neighbor for chokeberries is height. Since the plant thrives in full sun, trees and shrubs growing nearby should not block sunlight. Chokeberries are often used to form hedges. Red rowan trees are used as "inclusions" in the landscape design of the "fence." Since the former does not tolerate shade well, it is placed further south. Generally, the proximity of different species of the same genus is very beneficial, as it promotes cross-pollination and abundant fruiting.

The most tolerant tree in the garden is the apple tree. It's as undemanding as the chokeberry. By planting the chokeberry nearby, you can use biological pest control. Simply leave a few black fruits, which will attract birds during the cold season. By pecking at the insects, the birds will protect the apple and chokeberry shoots from damage.

For your information!
Due to the presence of the same pests on chokeberries and cherries, it is better to avoid planting the crops next to each other.

Landing technology

Once the site has been determined and the area where the shrub will grow has been prepared (cleared of weeds, dug over, and fertilized), the main work begins. The sequence of actions, as well as the steps themselves, are the same, regardless of whether the planting time is late April or early September. The process is as follows:

  1. A week before planting the chokeberry seedling, dig a planting hole measuring 50 x 50 cm.
  2. A peg is installed at the bottom for tying, a substrate of soil (5 kg), humus (5 kg), wood ash (300 g), superphosphate (150 g) is laid out.
  3. If necessary, add more fertile soil to reach a height of half the hole.
  4. They pour in a bucket of water.
  5. A seedling is placed in the center, the roots are straightened, sprinkled with soil, without deepening the root collar more than 2 cm.
  6. The tree trunk circle is re-moistened with a bucket of water and mulched with a 10 cm layer of peat.
  7. The shoots are shortened by a third of their length, leaving 4 buds on each.

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Care nuances

Caring for chokeberries is easy. Gardening begins after the snow melts. While the buds are dormant, perform sanitary and formative pruning, and lime the trunk. Spraying should be done a little later, once temperatures have stabilized above freezing, as most pesticides are ineffective below 10°C. Otherwise, the cultivation practices are standard.

Watering

The crop is drought-resistant. If the winter was snowy and there was rain in the spring and summer, additional watering will not be necessary. However, to ensure lush flowering, abundant fruit set, and full ripening of the berries in hot, arid climates, the plants need to be watered. It's best to use settled water, free of chlorine and heavy metals.

Soil treatment

After watering, loosen the soil under the tree's crown. Since the roots are close to the surface, don't hoe deeper than 5 cm. While loosening the soil, remove weeds, which rob the chokeberry of nutrients and moisture. While this doesn't stress the mature plant significantly, weeds can be harmful to young trees, significantly weakening them. To conserve moisture, it's recommended to cover the soil around the tree's trunk with mulch, such as sawdust, peat, or compost.

Top dressing and fertilization

In the wild, chokeberries grow even in very poor soils. However, to enhance their decorative qualities and ensure a bountiful harvest, it's important to feed the plant with the necessary macro- and micronutrients at different stages of development. In spring, nitrogen-containing fertilizers are applied to rowan trees. These stimulate branching, active foliage growth, and the intensity of their color. During the budding and fruiting stages, the plant is fertilized with phosphorus and potassium, which are responsible for berry formation and ripening.

For your information!
To strengthen the plant's immunity, it is fed foliarly by spraying the crown.

Trimming

To ensure fruiting and a strong immune system, chokeberries require pruning. They are most often trained as bushes, but growing chokeberries as trees is also very decorative. They are trained into a single trunk in the spring, once they reach the desired height. Lower, weak shoots are removed, leaving only 4-5 branches as scaffolds. Rowan pruning is done not only in spring but also in fall. However, the goals of pruning vary.

Spring

This is the time for formative pruning. Aronia is most often grown as a bush. The following spring, after planting, the seedlings are pruned to a height of 15-20 cm. A year later, a few shoots are left, trimmed to a uniform height, and the remaining shoots are pruned. Each spring, several developed branches are added to the bush from root suckers. When there are 10 of these, the plant is considered mature.

Sanitary pruning, which prevents the bush from becoming overgrown, is also performed in the spring. Weak, inward-growing shoots are removed. These can compete with the main branches, blocking light from reaching the center of the bush, leading to a reduced yield. Since the most productive chokeberry shoots are those less than eight years old, older shoots should be pruned. This is done right down to the root, without increasing the diameter of the base.

An old bush can also undergo rejuvenation pruning. This is done before the buds begin to swell, when all shoots are completely pruned. Adhering to the timing will help the plant tolerate the procedure without any problems. Make sure all branches are cut flush. Over time, new root shoots will begin to grow. These are shaped using the same technique as for a newly planted plant.

Haircut in autumn

After harvesting, when the gardener sees broken branches, diseased, and pest-infested rowan trees, they prune the plant, as it's undesirable for the chokeberry to overwinter in this condition. However, it's important not to over-prun the tree, as this will weaken it, and it will devote all its energy to recovery rather than preparing for the cold. After removing thick branches, the cuts are treated with garden pitch. This is an important rule to remember.

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Breeding methods

Fruit crops are propagated at home using vegetative methods. However, without a mature specimen, not all methods are available, including dividing the bush and propagating by root suckers. The generative method, also known as seed propagation, is used in breeding institutes to develop new varieties and hybrids. Although it is sometimes used by gardeners, it is rare. The main reason is the inability to preserve the varietal characteristics of the parent plant.

Seeds

You can obtain the seed yourself. Take the berries and extract the seeds by pressing them through a sieve. Rinse to remove any remaining pulp. Before sowing, the seed is stratified. It is placed in a container with damp sand, which is then stored in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator. The main work begins in mid-spring. Here's the sequence of actions:

  1. On the site, furrows 6-8 cm deep are prepared.
  2. The seeds are distributed at even intervals, sprinkled with earth, and mulched.
  3. When the seedlings have formed 2 true leaves, the crops are thinned out, leaving about 3 cm between the specimens.
  4. When 5 leaf blades are formed, the procedure is repeated, increasing the interval to 6 cm.
  5. With the arrival of the following spring, thin out the plants for the last time, maintaining a distance of 10 cm.
  6. At the end of autumn, the strengthened seedlings are planted in a permanent location.
For your information!
To ensure that seedlings grow strong, the sand used for stratification is calcined to destroy harmful organisms.

Cuttings

https://youtu.be/TN7KmawtXXs

There are two suitable times for propagation by cuttings. Use green shoots in summer, and semi-woody shoots in fall. Step-by-step instructions:

  1. Cuttings 15-20 cm long with three buds are cut.
  2. Place them in a growth stimulator for 8 hours to accelerate root formation.
  3. The lower leaf plates are removed, the upper ones are shortened by half so that they do not take away nutrients.
  4. The cuttings are planted in containers with loose, nutritious soil to a depth of 10 cm at an angle of 45°.
  5. After rooting, the planting material is planted in open ground.
  6. Plants are transferred to a permanent location in the fall of their second year.

Root suckers

Most varieties produce extensive root suckers, which must be managed throughout the season. However, this can also be used for propagating chokeberries. Select the most developed shoot and separate it from the mother plant with a sharp shovel, removing the root system. The plant is transplanted to a permanent location, where it receives regular care.

Layering

Propagation begins in the spring, when the strongest shoot closest to the trunk is selected. A 15-cm-deep trench is dug in the soil, into which the layer is placed, stapled, covered with soil, and the top is pinched. When new shoots emerge from dormant buds and reach a height of 12 cm, the layer is covered with another layer of humus. The new plants are separated from the mother plant for the following year.

By dividing the bush

If you have mature plants in your plot, you can use them to create new ones. In mid-spring, remove the chokeberry plants from the soil, clean the roots of soil, and begin dividing them with a sharp garden tool. Each division should have several shoots and roots. After this process, sprinkle the damaged areas with crushed charcoal. Place the divisions immediately in new, pre-prepared planting holes.

By vaccination

Chokeberries are grafted in the spring, before the sap begins to flow. Young rowan saplings serve as rootstocks. A sharp knife is used to make a split in the scion at the cut point. The scion shoot is pruned into a wedge shape. The cut points are aligned as closely as possible and tightly wrapped with elastic material or film. The latter creates a greenhouse effect. After a month, the fixing material is removed.

Transfer

If planted correctly, fruiting will begin in the third or fourth year. However, there are times when an established plant needs to be relocated, such as during construction or redesigning a garden with paved paths. It's best to replant black chokeberries in the spring, before the sap begins to flow. At this time, stress on the plant is minimal.

Thanks to its excellent viability and fast survival rate, the mature plant quickly takes root and soon begins producing crops. Simultaneously with replanting, propagation by division is carried out, rejuvenating the rowan tree if it's already old. Procedure:

  1. Aronia is dug deep around the perimeter of the tree trunk circle (at least 1 m in diameter).
  2. A large lump of earth, intertwined with roots, is “cut out” with a shovel.
  3. I gradually lift the rowan tree by its branches, thereby removing it from the soil.
  4. The plant is placed on a dense material and transferred to a prepared location, where a planting hole of the same size as the root ball has already been dug.
  5. Water is poured into the hole and the crop is lowered in.
For your information!
When replanting, compost and superphosphate are added to the hole to speed up recovery.

Pests and diseases, control methods

The fruit crop has excellent immunity. However, adverse weather conditions, proximity to infected plants, and poor cultivation practices can lead to pest infestations or pathogenic organisms. Among the most common pests on chokeberries are apple aphids, codling moths, weevils, and mites. Insecticide solutions are more effective in controlling these harmful insects. However, they should not be used before fruiting begins, as they leave pesticide residues in the berries.

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Diseases that occur during rainy weather include powdery mildew, rust, and septoria leaf spot. While the first two can be treated with a single-component fungicide, the latter requires a multi-component product. If adjacent to apple trees showing signs of moniliosis, the disease can also appear on chokeberries. In this case, the affected shoots are immediately removed, the cuts are treated with garden pitch, and the plant is sprayed with a fungicide in the fall.

Growing characteristics in different regions

Black chokeberry is cultivated throughout the world. It adapts well to hot climates and easily tolerates severe frosts, provided it has adequate cover. To maintain its decorative appearance and produce a bountiful harvest of healthy berries, it's important to consider the nuances of cultivation in different climate zones, including irrigation, frost protection, and other measures.

Moscow region

Cultivating the plant in the Moscow region requires the same agricultural practices as in central regions. The Moscow region is among the zones where rowan yields are highest. The climate here is much milder than in Siberia. Only winters with little snow pose a danger. Due to their shallow location, aronia roots freeze when temperatures drop to -11°C. To prevent this, before the cold weather sets in, the area around the tree's trunk is mulched with a thick layer of peat and, if necessary, covered with a special material.

In the Urals, Siberia and Yakutia

The aboveground portion of the chokeberry can withstand temperatures down to -35°C. This winter hardiness makes it suitable for cultivation in northern regions with harsh climates. To prevent shoots from freezing, it is recommended to bend them to the ground and cover them. Protection from the negative effects of low temperatures promotes a bountiful harvest. An important consideration is the limited application of nitrogen-containing fertilizers. This macronutrient stimulates shoot growth, preventing the chokeberry from preparing for winter. Furthermore, in these regions, preference should be given to regionalized varieties that fruit in late summer.

In Ukraine and Belarus

The crop grows successfully in these countries and demonstrates good productivity. In Ukraine, it is primarily cultivated in the eastern and southwestern regions. However, here, aronia shoots are subject to attacks from pests uncommon for the crop, including raspberry beetles, cockchafers, and scale insects. The fruits ripen in September, and harvesting can be delayed until mid-autumn. In Ukraine, chokeberry is actively used for landscaping in garden plots.

For your information!
In the Republic of Belarus, chokeberry is cultivated on an industrial scale. Its varieties "Venisa" and "Nadzeya" occupy an area of ​​approximately 400 hectares.

Reviews

Ekaterina, 32 years old

The plant has been producing fruit for about five years now. It's planted in partial shade, so it gets plenty of bright afternoon sun. Regarding the yield, I've noticed one characteristic: if the soil around the trunk is kept consistently moist throughout the season, the berries are much larger and produce more ovaries.

Ivan, 46 years old

I don't know the variety of chokeberry I've had for over 10 years, but it's growing like a dwarf standard tree. When replanting the old plant, I simply trimmed the top. The trunk stopped growing upward, and the lateral branches developed only vigorous ones, thickening over the next season to form an umbrella-shaped crown.

Alina, 53 years old

Aronia is undemanding in terms of growing and care. I only encountered problems at the initial stage: I couldn't find the right location. For several years in a row, planting it at a higher elevation exposed to strong winds resulted in the tree freezing. When I placed it between bushes, the plant quickly took root and began to grow. Already in the third year, I tasted my first berries.

Black chokeberry is an easy-to-grow plant that provides nutrients and is a beautiful addition to any garden. Planting and caring for it outdoors is so simple that even if you're not often at your dacha, growing it won't be a problem.

Black chokeberry
Comments to the article: 1
  1. Evgeniya

    Thanks for the article. Everything is laid out clearly: what, when, and how. I've gained some knowledge; all that's left is to plant it. I'll plant a seedling near my house. From my window, I'll be able to watch its beautiful blooms and colorful leaves in the fall.

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