Planting tomato seedlings in open ground

Tomatoes

Planting seedlings in open ground has many nuances, which we'll explore today. These include choosing the right location for the seedlings, considering their predecessors, what plants will be planted nearby, what fertilizers to use, how to dig the holes, and how to water.

Selecting a site

Tomatoes are sun-loving plants, so the site must be chosen accordingly. Sunlight and protection from winds are the most important requirements. Secondly, and no less important, the soil should not be too wet, with water table near the surface. Damp, low-lying areas are not suitable for tomatoes!

Predecessors are the third important condition for good tomato growth. Tomatoes shouldn't be planted in the same spot after potatoes, and it's also highly undesirable to plant them close to them, as this is a surefire way to infect late blight. Good tomato predecessors include root vegetables and legumes. Check out this interesting information: growwise-en.techinfus.com - how to save your labor and time.

Preparing the beds

Treat the beds with copper sulfate (one spoon per 10 liters of water). On clay soils, scatter peat, old manure, and ash, and add a little superphosphate. Then dig over the soil and water with warm water. Make holes, add a solution of "Effekton" for better growth, and begin planting.

Planting seedlings and timing

It's important to remember that the seedlings must be as fresh as possible. Therefore, the advantage of growing them yourself is that they can be immediately transferred from the greenhouse to the open ground without wilting, which is crucial for the subsequent good growth of tomatoes.

Timing: second half of May for central Russia.
For the south - from April 15.
For central regions - from June 1.

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Seedlings can be planted in the usual vertical manner, deepening only the roots and leaving the entire stem exposed to light. Alternatively, Maslov's method can be used, claiming that his planting method promotes strong roots that yield an excellent harvest. In this case, the plant is planted semi-recumbent, meaning it is planted horizontally two-thirds of the way down, with the leaves torn off, and covered with soil. The top should face north. The covered stem quickly sprouts new roots, which strengthen and form a powerful rhizome capable of supporting a large bush with numerous fruits.

Another interesting method, also suggested by Maslov, is burying side shoots. When the planted plants produce their first side shoots, don't remove them. Wait until they're large enough to bend them down to the ground and cover them with a 10-cm layer of soil. These shoots will develop new roots and soon catch up with the mother plant. They will also develop their own stems and fruits, so you can grow several from one bush, thereby increasing the yield with a small number of seedlings. Incidentally, many people propagate bushes like currants or gooseberries in this way, then transplanting them to a new location. Once the beds are prepared, you can begin planting.

Water the hole generously, wait until it's completely absorbed, and carefully remove the seedlings, which you've watered beforehand, along with the soil ball, being careful not to damage the roots. Place the plant up to the base of the stem, firm the soil, sprinkle a little compost on top, then cover with more soil, compact it, and water.

Now, don't water the seedlings for about a week and a half, let them settle in, settle down, and get their roots back to normal. Then water them, and after a couple of days, you can hill up the tomatoes. Next, water generously, but not frequently, at the roots, allowing the water to penetrate deep into the soil. This will encourage the roots to reach down for moisture, rather than become lazy parasites, huddling near the surface and waiting for your next watering. These roots are stronger, and the plant is stronger and more vigorous.