There aren't many berry bushes in our gardens that begin to bear fruit in early summer. Among them is the edible honeysuckle, an easy-to-grow, frost-resistant plant that grows successfully even in Siberia.
To ensure abundant fruiting, it's best to plant honeysuckle in the fall. Knowing the specifics of this shrub's cultivation, care, and propagation techniques will make harvesting this delicious and nutritious berry a breeze.
Valuable properties of honeysuckle
The crop isn't as popular as raspberries or currants, but that's been changing in recent years. While honeysuckle was previously grown primarily for ornamental purposes, today many varieties have been developed that produce delicious blue berries.
You may be interested in:They are valued for their high content of vitamins C, A, B1, B2, B9, tannins, and pectin. The berries contain the following acids:
- apple;
- oxalic;
- amber;
- lemon.
Honeysuckle is used for stomach ailments, rheumatism, and eczema, and as an antipyretic and vascular tonic. The berries and juice have antiviral, choleretic, and antioxidant properties.
Among the varieties considered productive are:
- Souvenir;
- Masha;
- Nymph.
Honeysuckle has been bred with berries whose taste is similar to strawberries:
- Titmouse;
- Roxana;
- Cinderella;
- Kamchadal woman.
During spring flowering, the bushes are covered with beautiful white, pink, and blue flowers. For this reason, honeysuckle is often used in landscape design.
When to plant honeysuckle: in autumn or spring
When choosing a time to plant honeysuckle, it's best to choose autumn. The plant is easy to grow, and seedlings with a good root ball will take root in the spring, but there's a high risk of misplacing the plant's timing. The plant's sap begins to flow early, and if you don't plant it before bud break, the honeysuckle will wither.
The most convenient time to plant is September or October, taking into account the weather and climate of a particular area.
Choosing a landing site
When choosing a location for a shrub, you need to consider the following:
- the crop bears fruit abundantly only in well-lit areas;
- honeysuckle does not tolerate drafts and winds, as its fragile branches quickly break;
- likes to grow in fertile, slightly acidic soils.
Suitable planting sites include small depressions, but not stagnant water, with protection from outbuildings or fencing. Plantings should be sheltered from the north, away from cold winds.
In highly acidic soils, chalk or slaked lime (100-200 grams per square meter) is added approximately 1-1.5 months before autumn planting of honeysuckle. In clay soils, a drainage layer is added to the hole.
Planting hole: preparation
The hole for the seedlings is prepared in advance to allow the soil to settle. With proper care, berry bushes can grow in the same spot for up to two decades, so it's important to ensure the soil is properly fertilized.
The top layer of fertile soil is left; it will be needed to prepare the nutrient mixture. Its composition:
- humus (8-10 kg);
- potassium salt (30-40 grams is enough);
- superphosphate (standard rate is 200 grams).
Mix the ingredients, add soil, and fill the hole halfway. Then cover the hole and leave it until planting time.
Dimensions of the pit: diameter – 40-50 cm, depth – up to 30-40 cm.
Planting depth
It's important to plant honeysuckle at the correct depth. Carefully place the seedling in the hole so that its crown is level with the soil surface. Then, carefully cover the roots with the remaining nutrient mixture and soil. Water the plantings generously. After a while, the soil will settle, and the seedling will sink slightly, leaving its crown 4-6 cm below the soil surface. This should only be done in light soil. In heavy soil, do not plant the seedling too deeply, as this can cause the main roots to rot.
It is advisable to mulch the plantings with peat or humus.
Selection of planting material
In the fall, nurseries offer a wide selection of honeysuckle seedlings. How to choose planting material:
- Buy plants no more than 150 cm and no less than 25 cm tall. "Giants," like "baby" plants, take a long time to establish and bear fruit poorly, so it's best to avoid them.
- Honeysuckle should be 2-3 years old.
- At least three different varieties are selected for a single plot. The plant is self-sterile and requires pollination. It's best to choose varieties that bloom simultaneously.
- They buy healthy, strong plants, without defects on the bark, with whole and dense buds.
- When purchasing honeysuckle varieties for planting in the fall, it is preferable to choose plants in containers or pots with covered roots.
Seedlings from containers take root faster and grow actively.
Number of honeysuckle bushes on the site
The plant is cross-pollinated, so a garden should have at least two, and possibly three or four, varieties. If you grow only one variety (even just a few bushes), honeysuckle will delight you with abundant blooms, but will not bear fruit.
They don't forget about the flowering time, as if the periods don't coincide, pollination will fail, and the berries won't set. The choice of pollinators is taken seriously; experts believe it determines the number of berries and their flavor.
Mixed planting options
| Main variety | Varieties suitable for pollination |
| Blue Spindle | Cinderella, Kamchadalka, Blue Bird |
| Nymph | Amphora, the Chosen One |
| Cinderella | Amphora, Gerda, Azure |
| Bakcharsky giant | Nymph, Amphora, Pride of Bakchar |
| Siberian | Narymskaya, Tomichka |
| Blue Bird | Malvina, Blue Spindle, Cinderella |
Honeysuckle planting pattern
A good harvest is achieved by following all agricultural practices, including proper spacing between holes when planting honeysuckle in the fall. The branches of the bushes are fragile and will break if planted too closely. Furthermore, light and ventilation are reduced, making it more difficult to harvest the berries.
Therefore, a distance of two meters is allowed for tall bushes, and up to 1.2-1.5 meters for short bushes. The first group includes the following varieties:
- Fortune;
- Nymph;
- Volkhova;
- Bakcharsky giant
Low-growing varieties:
- Ramenskaya;
- Late Gzhel;
- Blue Bird
The distance between rows is 2-3 meters.
Planting in the regions: features
Breeders developed productive varieties of this healthy berry using wild shrubs from the Siberian taiga. This hardy plant grows wild in Siberia, the Far East, and Kamchatka. It can be found on hillsides and in ravines.
The shrub is not afraid of severe frosts, but it does not tolerate extreme drought and heat well. Also, beware of sudden warm spells in winter, when the bushes can freeze. Such fluctuations are typical for the temperate zone, so gardeners in this region need to be careful and provide shelter.
Siberia, Urals
The best regions for planting honeysuckle are spring, as young seedlings planted in the fall often freeze due to early frosts. Three-year-old seedlings with closed root systems adapt better to the local climate.
Planting is scheduled for early June, when the danger of frost has passed. By autumn, the plants will have strengthened and will be able to withstand severe frosts into winter.
Central Russia, Moscow region
The first half of September (until the 15th-18th) is the best time for planting. Active vegetation has come to an end, and honeysuckle is gradually entering a dormant period.
Spring planting is rare, as the region often experiences recurrent frosts. If necessary, the time is chosen for late March, planting a prepared seedling with a large clod of soil.
Volga region
Another region where the best time to plant berries is spring. Plants must be planted before bud break, otherwise the honeysuckle will take a long time to establish itself, and there's a high risk of dying.
Southern regions
Growing a good honeysuckle crop in southern Russia is challenging. The climate is unsuitable for the plant, with yields occurring every 1-2 years and low yields. If you still want to try it out in your garden, find a shaded spot and ensure ample, regular watering.
Ornamental honeysuckle: planting
While considering the specifics of planting edible honeysuckle, don't forget about ornamental varieties. These are typically climbing vines that reach several meters in length. They are used for vertical gardening and landscape design.
Planting is not much different from planting edible varieties, but to quickly obtain shoots, the shoots of ornamental plants are often buried in trenches. This allows several viable bushes to be produced from a single shoot.
The group includes numerous varieties, differing in appearance and distribution. The plants are undemanding and frost-resistant, and differ from traditional varieties in the shape of their berries. They are small and round, and come in red, orange, or black hues.
Among the most well-known varieties, the honeysuckle caprifolium stands out with shoots reaching almost 5-6 meters in length. It is distinguished by its long growing season (up to 3 years) and high frost resistance. It blooms profusely with bright orange or pink flowers. In sunny locations, on supports (fences, arbors), it forms green climbing walls.
Popular ornamental varieties:
- Hekrota;
- Telman;
- Brown;
- Primorskaya;
- Gerald.
Autumn planting is recommended; seedlings are not pruned.
Caring for young plantings
Planting and caring for berry bushes in the fall doesn't require much time from the gardener. The main thing is to get the timing right so the young plants can take root and survive the winter successfully.
Main events:
- loosening;
- mulching;
- watering.
Weeds should be removed from the area around the bushes and a small amount of soil should be raked to the base of the bush. If done correctly, the first berries should appear in the second year. The bushes reach their peak fruiting after 5-6 years.
Loosening
The roots of the shrub lie in the top layer of soil, so the soil must be loosened carefully. This is especially important in spring and summer, ensuring oxygen reaches the roots.
In the fall, the soil around the bushes is thoroughly dug with a pitchfork to a depth of 12-15 cm. If using mulch (humus, peat, sawdust), the soil does not need to be loosened.
Watering and fertilizing
Particular attention is paid to watering the bushes. If the plant doesn't get enough moisture, the berries will grow bitter. The amount of watering depends on the condition of the honeysuckle, weather conditions, and soil type. In hot weather, water frequently, thoroughly soaking the soil.
For top dressing, use complex fertilizers, strictly adhering to the recommended dosage. In the spring, apply nitrogen-containing fertilizers, and in the fall, it's beneficial to feed honeysuckle with potassium and phosphorus. Organic fertilizers are permitted after approximately 3-4 years, but the fertilizers must be well-rotted. The recommended dosage is 10 liters per plant.
Circumcision
When growing honeysuckle, remember that the bushes grow slowly during the first 2-3 years. Therefore, it's important to prune honeysuckle properly in the fall, according to its age. Pruning immediately after planting weakens the bush and delays future fruiting.
Bush pruning scheme
- If the root system is damaged, the seedling can be cut back by 1/3 before planting.
- In spring, old or diseased branches are removed from the bushes.
- During the growing season, remove dried and thin branches. The plant is characterized by numerous shoots with underdeveloped buds. These dry out and thicken the plant. They should be pruned.
- Starting at age 4, perform formative pruning, removing thick branches in the center of the bush, weak shoots, and shoots that trail along the ground. Stems with little growth are also pruned.
- Bushes over 8 years old are rejuvenated every 4-5 years. This involves pruning some trunks and removing excess branches. Ideally, a mature bush should have 4-5 well-developed skeletal branches.
- Old bushes are pruned radically in the fall to rejuvenate them. To do this, the plant is cut back to a height of 30-40 cm above the ground. It will take 2-3 seasons for a new, vigorous bush to develop.
It's important to remember that honeysuckle buds are located at the tips of the shoots. Therefore, extensive pruning, which can significantly reduce the bush's yield, is avoided. All cuts are sealed with oil paint or garden varnish after pruning. In the fall, after pruning, apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizer to support the weakened bush, and water the honeysuckle generously.
Reproduction
There are three main methods used for reproduction:
- dividing mature plants;
- cuttings;
- seeds.
Each has its own characteristics, and among the popular ones are cuttings and division of the bush.
Seed method
But let's start with seed propagation—a labor-intensive and ineffective method. It's used primarily in breeding to create new varieties. Results vary, so amateur gardeners are skeptical of this technology. It's impossible to replicate all the qualities and properties of the mother plant when planting from seeds; almost one-third of honeysuckle plants lose them.
To obtain seeds, select juicy, ripe berries and spread them out in the sun for about a couple of hours. Next, sow the honeysuckle in prepared beds in a mini-nursery.
Stages:
- Make holes 2 cm deep, distance – 10 cm.
- The pulp of the berries along with the seeds is squeezed into the holes.
- Lightly sprinkle the soil and water the plantings.
- Cover the bed with film or covering material.
- The film is regularly lifted for ventilation, and the soil is sprayed with water.
- When seedlings appear, the cover is removed.
Sprouts appear in approximately 30-40 days. With proper care, the bushes will develop 3-4 leaves by autumn. For the winter, they must be covered with agrofibre and spruce branches to protect them from the cold.
Honeysuckle grows in the mini-nursery for two years. Then, strong plants are selected and transplanted, along with the root ball, to their permanent location.
For spring sowing, seeds are collected the previous summer and stored in a dry place over the winter. In the spring, they are planted directly into open ground (when stable warmth sets in) or seedlings are grown first and only then planted in a permanent outdoor location.
The boxes are filled with a nutrient mixture:
- river sand;
- humus;
- ash.
Sand and humus are used in equal parts, with a small amount of ash added. Leave a distance of up to 1 cm between the seeds and sow them in moist soil. The sprouts emerge slowly and grow very slowly. They are grown indoors until autumn, and in winter, they are moved to a greenhouse, carefully covered, and left until spring.
After the warmer weather arrives, the plants are uncovered. Then, when the bushes reach 5-6 cm in height, they are pricked out into a bed and grown there for another season. Then they are transplanted to their chosen location.
When propagated by seeds, honeysuckle usually produces its first berries no earlier than the fifth year.
Propagation by cuttings
The most popular propagation options are woody or green cuttings.
Lignified cuttings
In late autumn, cuttings are taken and planted in containers filled with peat and sand. Water regularly and lightly loosen the soil. These seedlings are ready for planting the following fall.
If the cuttings are buried under snow for the winter, they can be planted in the spring. It is recommended to place the honeysuckle at an angle in the holes, leaving only one bud at the top.
Young bushes grow in the garden bed for 2-3 years, then they are dug up and planted in selected places on the site.
Green cuttings
Honeysuckle can be propagated using green cuttings. To do this, cut the current year's shoots (10 cm each) and plant them in a greenhouse.
The time for cutting is when green berries appear on mature bushes. In a greenhouse, cuttings quickly root (in about 15-18 days). Care is taken until autumn, then carefully covered for the winter. In the spring, the plants are planted in their permanent location.
Layering
No less popular is the method of propagation using layering from adult bushes.
- The lowest, strongest branch is bent to the ground.
- Dig a small trench (5 cm deep in light soils, 2-3 cm in heavy soils). Using a staple or wooden fork, pin the shoot to the ground, place it in the trench, and lightly cover with soil.
- After some time, the cutting will produce roots.
It is separated from the mother bush the following year.
Dividing the bush
Bushes that are 8-9 years old can be divided. Each division should retain:
- well-developed roots (20-30 cm);
- 2-3 branches;
- 2-3 stems.
A pitchfork and saw are used for dividing the bushes. Bushes are usually divided in the spring, before bud break. The sections of the bush are planted in a prepared location and watered. After 30-40 days, the seedlings begin to root.
Shelter for the winter
Unpretentious honeysuckle is not afraid of frost, but if you do not take care to prepare for winter, the bushes may freeze during a thaw.
Most edible varieties of this crop do not require shelter. They easily tolerate temperatures below -50ºC, without damaging flower buds or roots. Sudden thaws in winter, when warm days are followed by a sudden frost, pose a danger.
Climbing varieties of ornamental honeysuckle are protected from the cold by removing them from their supports and covering them with spruce branches or agrofibre. In this condition, the bushes are resistant to even the most severe frosts.
Transplanting honeysuckle to a new location
Sometimes you need to replant a bush. There are various reasons:
- site redevelopment;
- initially unsuccessful choice of location;
- the wishes of the new owners of the garden.
It is recommended to replant only plants under five years old, as older honeysuckle does not take root well and often dies.
When to transplant honeysuckle
Honeysuckle transplanting is best done in the fall, which in temperate climates ranges from September to mid-October. It's not recommended to replant in the spring, as the bushes begin to sap early, and the plant will lose a lot of energy during replanting.
You may be interested in:Preparing the planting hole
Prepare the planting site in advance:
- dig holes (diameter not less than 70-80 cm);
- drainage is placed on the bottom (broken bricks, pebbles, expanded clay);
- add humus (up to 15 kg, 200-300 grams of superphosphate, a liter of ash).
In mature bushes, the root system is well developed, so there should be enough space in the hole.
Preparing a bush for transplantation
Dry or damaged branches are carefully trimmed from the bush, and shoots are shortened. The ideal plant height is up to half a meter. Dig around the honeysuckle in a circle, being careful not to damage the roots. Repotting should be done with a clod of soil to speed up the adaptation process.
Before removing the plant, water the soil thoroughly. Place the dug-up honeysuckle on burlap or tarpaulin, and carefully trim off any excess roots. Place the plant vertically in the hole, carefully placing the roots and not burying the root collar. Cover with soil, water well, and mulch.
Caring for a transplanted bush
Further care is standard:
- watering;
- top dressing.
It's especially important to monitor soil moisture, preventing it from drying out. Fertilize the bush in the spring using a complex fertilizer.
Storing seedlings before planting in the ground
How can you preserve seedlings if planting them in a permanent location immediately isn't possible? Consider:
- condition of the bushes;
- season (spring or autumn);
- own capabilities.
In early spring, if the buds are still dormant and the weather is too harsh for planting, the plants are refrigerated. If the plant revives, it is first planted in a prepared container indoors, and then, when favorable weather conditions arrive, it is transplanted outdoors.
In the fall, seedlings should be planted, or if that's not possible, they can be dug into the ground in the garden. It's not recommended to pot this honeysuckle indoors during the winter, as there's a high risk of losing the plant.
Reviews
Peter, Moscow region
I first planted honeysuckle about 10 years ago, in the spring. The bushes died from drought. Then I started planting them only in the fall, and they grow like crazy! They don't have small berries, they bear fruit abundantly, and they take root quickly. A couple of bushes grow in partial shade, and even then they bear fruit well. That's what it means to plant them right.
Rose, Penza
My honeysuckle grows in partial shade, and over the past five years, I've realized that's exactly what the plant needs. Soil is also important—light, loose, and consistently slightly moist (but not waterlogged).
I planted all the seedlings in the fall, and they took root well (I used Bakchar varieties). They all grow slowly, but produce excellent harvests.
Conclusion
Gardeners unfamiliar with honeysuckle should take a closer look at this beneficial berry. By planting bushes in the fall and providing proper care, you can reap a handsome harvest in just a few years, with the added bonus of its magnificent ornamental qualities.

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