Rose diseases: photos, descriptions, and treatments

If you've decided to plant roses in your garden to admire their majestic beauty, be sure to learn about rose diseases, descriptions, and treatments, because instead of a luxurious appearance, your beauties may disappoint you with illnesses and a fading, sad appearance.

Roses are susceptible to aphids, sawflies, and weevils, and are also susceptible to attacks from thrips and leafhoppers. Spider mites also frequently infest rose bushes, stunting their growth. May beetles and gall wasps are eager to ruin their beauty. Gray mold attacks rose bushes in damp weather, black spot attacks in hot weather, spider mites plague them, and powdery mildew often plagues them. If all these troubles haven't dampened your desire to have a beautiful rose in your garden, let's explore all the diseases and dangers that await garden roses. We'll look at rose diseases in pictures, learn effective treatments, how to treat diseased plants, and what preventative measures to take. Then your roses will tower above your garden in all their glory, delighting the eye and heart, and spreading heavenly fragrances throughout the garden.
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Powdery mildew

A nasty disease that afflicts your plants in dry weather, when there's a calcium deficiency in the soil, or when watering too little is allowed to dry out. A flour-like dust appears on the leaves, which become warped and thickened. This is the mycelium, the visible part of the disease. The fungal spores quietly nestle in the buds during the winter, then attack the plants with the onset of summer. Cold, excessively damp soils, light sandy soils, and excess nitrogen in the soil also contribute to the disease.

As for indoor roses, this disease is particularly prevalent indoors, especially in areas with stale air, low light, and fluctuating temperatures. Tea roses and their hybrids are particularly susceptible to powdery mildew.

How to fight: As soon as you see the first signs of powdery mildew, you need to immediately spray the bushes with Fundazol or Raik; Topaz will also be effective.
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Rust

As with powdery mildew, rust causes shoots to thicken and become twisted. As buds emerge, orange dust can be seen near them—this is the sporulation of the fungus, which has overwintered in the rose tissue and has emerged to reproduce. Then, black pads appear on the undersides of the leaves, which turn yellow and fall off.

How to treatFirst of all, as a preventative measure, avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen. Burn all affected above-ground parts in the fall. In the spring, spray the bushes with ferrous sulfate (1.5%) before the buds have opened. Loosening the soil and applying mulch will also help prevent the spread of the disease.

Spider mite

During dry summers and intense heat, roses are attacked by spider mites. This causes the leaves to turn yellow, fall off profusely, and the plant loses its appearance and freshness.

How to treatIf you notice this problem, immediately buy Fufanon and spray it on your plants. You can also use Iskra-M, which is also effective against spider mites. Spray again in a couple of weeks until the problem goes away.

Black spot

In July and August, you may notice black spots appearing on your favorite plants, causing brown leaves to fall. This is a fungal disease, and its development is promoted by dampness, dew, cold nights, dense planting, and poor lighting.

How to fight: In the fall, remove all infected leaves very carefully and burn them. In the spring, as with rust, spray with copper-containing products. Repeat the treatment after heavy rains and dew.

Gray rot

If you notice your roses are trying to open their buds, but they're covered in a fluffy white coating and rotting instead of blooming, you've been attacked by gray mold. Fog, excessive morning dew, heavy rain, and generally excessive humidity, as well as late evening watering that leaves the leaves wet for too long, all contribute to the disease's progression.

Treatment: Euparen Multi is the most effective treatment for this condition. Apply it immediately to your rose bushes at the first sign of trouble. Also, in addition to spraying, apply Fitosporin or Gamair.
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Bacterial cancer

This nasty thing attacks the roots and rarely appears above ground. Carefully inspect the root collar and take immediate action if growths appear, as your plant can easily die if the growths interlock, forming a ring. Dampness, excessive manure in the fertilizer, and accidental root injury are particularly conducive to the development of root canker.

How to treatRemove growths by cutting them out deeply and treating them with brilliant green. It's best to dig up the plant, perform these steps, soak the roots in a weak copper sulfate solution (approximately 1%), rinse, make a clay and sand slurry, dip the roots in it, and then replant.

Green aphid

These tiny creatures are very fond of roses and can cause significant damage. In the spring, larvae hatch from the eggs, then develop into wingless females and begin to reproduce rapidly, sucking all the life out of your roses. The peak of reproduction occurs in June, and these little pests continue their vicious activity until the end of summer. Aphids often prevent buds from opening, causing shoots to twist.

How to fightAs soon as you notice signs of aphids on your roses, immediately apply Confidor or Zubr. Don't stop there; repeat the treatment several times over a couple of weeks until all the aphids are gone.

Leaf burn

This is also a serious fungal disease, manifested by red spots that darken over time, and a brown leaf margin. If it spreads rapidly, it can lead to the death of the entire bush or individual branches. Its development is particularly promoted by overly dense winter covering and high humidity.

How to fightRemove winter cover early, with the first warm days, immediately remove and burn affected areas, and spray with copper-containing preparations. When you're ready to cover the bushes for the winter, wait until dry weather sets in, remove all immature shoots, trim off the leaves, and spray with Bordeaux mixture (3%).
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Thrips

Light-colored rose varieties are particularly susceptible to thrips attack, with the foliage becoming covered in tiny red spots and turning silvery. Flowers quickly wilt. Thrips are particularly fond of roses, growing in comfortable, secluded corners. In spring, thrips fly from weeds to the roses and settle there, sucking the sap from the buds and shoots.

How to fight: All aphid control products are suitable for killing thrips.

Owls

Cutworm caterpillars can cause significant damage to your plants, leaving them looking unattractive. They work at night and hide in the soil during the day. As soon as you notice leaf damage typical of cutworms, spray them immediately after sunset with the same treatments we described for aphid damage.

Beetles

These insects can cause many problems for gardeners growing roses. Rose beetles and rose weevils are considered the most dangerous to roses.
The rose chafer, similar to the cockchafer, with its shiny golden wings, favors light-colored roses. After infesting the plant, the beetle nibbles the buds, eating away the stamens. By late summer, the rose chafers pupate, overwinter in the soil, and emerge again in the spring.

How to fight: There is only one known way to combat bronze beetles: early in the morning, when they sit motionless on the bushes, collect them by hand.

Weevils – these tiny leaf-munching pests can damage your roses. They lie dormant in the soil during the day and become active at night, along with their legless larvae, which feed on the roots. If their numbers are allowed to increase, the plant may die. They are especially dangerous for shrubs growing in the shade or in dense plantings.

How to fight: one of the insecticides can help get rid of weevils, and you should not delay this measure.
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