How to grow Brussels sprouts outdoors

Brussels sprouts aren't as popular as their relatives, such as cabbage and cauliflower. However, gardeners grow popular varieties of Brussels sprouts in their gardens for their distinctive flavor and unique appearance. The base of the plant is a sturdy stem that grows up to 90 cm. From a distance, the dense, rigid trunk resembles a palm tree. Leaves grow from the stem, and above them are small cabbage heads.

Varieties of Brussels sprouts

When choosing a hybrid, consider the vegetable's ripening time, yield, and taste. Hybrid varieties are particularly resistant to diseases and pests. Brussels sprouts are biennial; they produce stems in the first year and produce few fruits. Fruit appears in the second year.

Curl

A late-ripening variety, the fruits ripen in 160-180 days. Each head on a meter-long stem weighs approximately 15 g. 50-60 fruits are harvested from a single plant. They are suitable for fresh consumption and for winter preserves.

Perfection

A mid-season cabbage variety bred by domestic breeders. Yields up to 5 kg per bush. Frost-hardy and fungus-resistant.

Boxer

A mid-late hybrid, yielding 13-15 kg of cabbage per square meter. This cabbage is resistant to many diseases and pests, and has a long shelf life.

Hercules 1342

Ripening time is 140-150 days. A single plant produces 20-30 heads. The fruits are quite large, weighing 100-300 g. The stem height does not exceed 50 cm. Harvesting takes place in November; this variety is frost-resistant.

Common varieties of Brussels sprouts include: Diablo, Hercules Nizky, Franklin, Gruntovaya Gribovskaya, Dolmik, Rosella, and Sapphire.

Planting dates

The optimal time for sowing seeds for seedlings is from March 10 to April 5. It takes 35-45 days from sowing the seeds to planting the seedlings in the garden. Seedlings are transplanted to the open ground when they have five leaves. Planting in the garden takes place from May 10 to June 5.

Timing of sowing seeds in open soil:

1. Early-ripening varieties: June, Golden Hectare, Express, and Transfer. Sow seeds from March 15 to 30. These cabbages have tender leaves, small heads, and a growing season of 110–120 days.
2. Mid-season hybrids are suitable for winter storage and fresh consumption. Heads are harvested 130-150 days after planting. Hybrids such as Symphony, Zastolny, Slava 1305, and others are planted from March 20 to April 15.
3. The growing season for late cabbage is 160-180 days. Varieties such as Morozko, Garant, Arktika, and Kamennaya Golova are planted from April 10th to 20th.

The sowing time for cabbage seeds depends on the region where the cabbage is being planted. In the northern and western regions of the country, the vegetable is planted using seedlings. Late-season varieties are grown only in greenhouses, as they don't have time to ripen before frost.

Conditions for planting Brussels sprouts

Brussels sprouts thrive in southern and southeastern areas of the garden. Preference is given to areas where potatoes, carrots, onions, legumes, and cucumbers were grown. Vegetables are replanted in the same spot four years after harvest.

The main conditions for successful cabbage planting:

• lighting – sunny bright areas;
• soil – loam, light, fertile soil, pH 6.5 – 7;
• location - lowlands;
• air temperature – not lower than 18 degrees during the day, 6 C* at night, optimal for setting heads 12-13 degrees;
• humidity – not less than 70%.

Growing seedlings

To ensure that seeds germinate to the maximum extent possible and that the seedlings do not die, several conditions are necessary: ​​high-quality seed material, fertile soil, fertilizer, and proper care.

Selecting containers

The boxes are chosen to be at least 8 cm deep. They are doused with boiling water and treated with baking soda. Afterwards, they are filled with soil.

Used by:

1. Individual pots. No need to pick them; they can be transplanted directly into the ground with the root ball, removing it from the pot along with the seedlings.
2. Boxes. Save space by planting several seeds in one container.
3. Peat pots, tablets, and cassettes. No need for pricking out; the container serves as fertilizer; planting occurs within the container, preventing root damage. Good air circulation. The key is to constantly monitor the peat's moisture content.

Preparing soil and seeds

When purchasing seeds, pay attention to the expiration date on the packaging. Be sure to check the quality of the seeds after opening. It's advisable to buy extra seeds, as not all of them may germinate. Store seeds at 5°C*. Before planting, soak the seeds in warm water (45°C) for 10 minutes, then in cool water for a minute. Soak for 15 minutes in a weak potassium permanganate solution. Rinse in water, refrigerate for 15 hours, and dry to prevent sticking.

Plant the seeds in a container with a soil mixture of peat, sand, and turf (1:1:1). Disinfect the soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. A couple of days before sowing, add 3 tablespoons of ash per kilogram of soil and half a teaspoon of superphosphate. The soil should be light.

Sowing seeds

The seeds are planted in the soil to a depth of 1-1.5 cm, carefully covered with soil, and watered. The seedlings tolerate moderate temperatures well: 16°C (61°F) during the day and 6-7°C (43-47°F) at night. The seedlings are not watered for the first two days. Watering is then continued as the soil dries. The soil should be moist but not soaked. If the room is dry, cover the container with plastic wrap until the seedlings emerge. After 6-7 days, the first sprouts will appear. The container is moved to a bright location.

Picking

After 12-14 days, the first leaves will appear on the plants, and they can be pricked out. Water the seedlings well before transplanting. Use 200 ml pots or cups. Use a small trowel to carefully lift the soil and transfer the seedling to the new container. Lightly pinch the roots, lower them into the prepared holes, and cover them with soil up to the leaves. Water them and place them in a shaded area for two days, away from direct sunlight. Keep the room temperature at 20 degrees Celsius.

Feeding seedlings

The plants will require two feedings every two months. Seven to eight days after transplanting, apply complex fertilizers, such as azophoska or urea, according to the instructions. You can also prepare your own: 20 g of superphosphate, 5 g of potassium sulfate, and 10 g of saltpeter per 5 liters of water.

The second feeding is done 15 days after the first. Dissolve 50 g of superphosphate, 25 g of saltpeter, and 20 g of potassium in a bucket of water.

Caring for seedlings

Growing seedlings in a cool nursery (14-15°C*) has its advantages: the seedlings don't stretch, don't become infected with fungi, and are hardened off. To prevent them from stretching, choose a well-lit location. The eastern and southern parts of the room are suitable.

Prerequisites:

1. The young animals are given 16 hours of daylight. If there is insufficient light, lamps are used.
2. Nutritious soil with humus, peat and sand.
3. If using large containers, leave a gap of 4-5 cm between seedlings. The distance between rows is 7 cm.
4. Water as the soil dries. Insufficient moisture slows seedling growth. Water in the morning at a water temperature of 20-22 degrees Celsius. Do not water the seedlings for five days before planting.
5. Air humidity 60-70%.
6. For tall varieties, additional stakes are installed to which tall stems are tied.

Twelve days before planting in the garden, the seedlings are hardened off. They are moved to the balcony daily and left for two hours at a temperature of 6-7 degrees Celsius. Care is taken to ensure that the seedlings are not exposed to direct sunlight.

Sowing seeds in beds

Sow the seeds directly into the beds when the soil warms up to 15 degrees Celsius. Only early cabbage varieties with a growing season of up to 130 days are selected for sowing. The harvest must be harvested before frost.

Seeds are planted in rows, nesting them. The seeds are placed 2-3 cm deep in the hole, spaced 50 cm apart. Carefully cover with soil and water. Two or three seeds can be planted per hole. If numerous seedlings emerge, thin the rows, leaving strong, healthy seedlings. The row spacing is 50-60 cm.

Outdoor care

After planting young plants or sowing seeds in open ground, certain care guidelines must be followed. Without them, you won't get the desired harvest or excellent vegetable flavor.

Watering

Water the plants sparingly to avoid overwatering the growing points. Once the seedlings are established, increase watering to 35-40 liters per square meter. Dig furrows between the rows and water them. Once the soil is saturated, cover the furrows with soil.

Watering is important during the head formation period. On hot days, water every 3-4 days. After watering, loosen the soil to prevent crusting. Mulching with grass or straw helps prevent rapid evaporation and reduces the need for watering. Mulch also helps control weeds.

Fertilizer

Before planting seedlings, apply a sufficient amount of fertilizer. In the fall, during deep digging, fertilize the area with humus (5 kg per square meter) or 6 kg of peat compost and 20 g of potassium chloride. Ash is needed – 200 g per square meter. But if this has not been done, then the young plants are fed with additives:

• 15-16 days after planting the seedlings, add nitroammophoska at a rate of 1 small spoon per 2 bushes;
• When forming heads of cabbage, add 20 g of potassium sulfate, a spoonful of nitroammophoska, 20 g of superphosphate per 9-10 liters of water - the consumption of the mixture per plant is 1.5 liters.

All fertilizers should be applied only to moist soil. After fertilizing, the soil should also be watered.

Loosening and hilling

Loosening the soil is done 5-6 times during the growing season. This procedure increases oxygen supply to the roots and helps eliminate weeds. The first loosening is done 10 days after planting the seedlings. Subsequent loosenings are done at intervals of 12-14 days. Loosen the soil after it has dried out and is no longer sticky. In light sandy loam soils, loosening is done less frequently. Brussels sprouts are not hilled, as the sprouts form on the lower leaves.

Pest and disease control

If you follow all the rules of agricultural technology, care for the vegetables, and monitor the beds, then the cabbage heads will grow healthy and produce an excellent harvest.

Harmful insects

The Brussels beauty has many enemies: cruciferous flea beetle, aphids, babanukha, flies, black flea beetle, fire moth, bugs, moths, wireworms, mole crickets, cutworms and others.

Preventive measures against pests give good results:

• correct crop rotation;
• processing seeds before sowing;
• preparing the soil for planting;
• proper and timely care;
• clearing the beds of weeds;
• Digging up the garden in autumn.

It's best to combat emerging pests using folk remedies. If there are numerous insects, chemical treatments—bactericidal insecticides—are used. Application rates are specified in the instructions or on the product's label.

Diseases

The main diseases of Brussels sprouts include white and dry rot, clubroot, rot, ring and black spot, mosaic, blackleg, powdery mildew, and bacterial wilt. All diseases are caused by different types of fungi.

If the disease has only affected part of the plant, it is treated with fungicides such as Fundazol or Maxim. If more than 50% of the plant is infected, remove and burn it. This dangerous disease can spread to neighboring plants. Viral diseases are not treated; the entire plant is removed.

Harvesting and storage

25-30 days before harvesting, the stem tips are cut off. This procedure helps direct the plant's energy toward maturing heads rather than growth.

Vegetable harvesting begins in late September and continues until frost sets in. Harvest times vary depending on the cabbage variety, planting time, and growing region. The entire crop is harvested when the leaves turn yellow.

When harvesting, not only the heads of cabbage are removed, but also the leaves on which they grew. Cutting begins at the bottom of the heads and gradually moves up the trunk. You can cut off only the larger heads, leaving the smaller fruits to ripen.

The vegetables are lowered into the basement. The heads are placed in rows at an angle in boxes. They are covered with sand and stored throughout the winter. To extend storage, the plants are dug up with the rhizomes and buried in the basement, closely spaced. You can trim the heads with the stalks, stack them 4-5 at a time, and store them in the cellar. Store the cabbage in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 1.5 months or freeze it for the entire winter.

Tips and secrets for growing cabbage

Successful vegetable growing depends on the climate and weather conditions of the region, compliance with agricultural practices, and many other factors:

• the selected variety must correspond to the climatic conditions of the region in which it is grown;
• Before purchasing, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the characteristics of the hybrid;
• It is better to purchase seed material from trusted manufacturers;
• with excess nitrogen, cabbage becomes fat, foliage grows, heads do not form;
• If you remove the lower leaves, the heads of cabbage will ripen faster in the sun;
• if the soil is highly acidic, add ash and limestone;
• The plant does not tolerate drought; if there is a lack of water, the heads are small and have a bitter taste;
• there is no need to worry if there are no ovaries for a long time, the heads of cabbage begin to form in mid-August;
• Turning a truly beloved hobby into a business is possible; with the right approach, you can generate a good income from a small area.

Brussels sprouts are a beautiful addition to any holiday table. They can be fried, pickled, stewed, or stuffed. Fresh, they're delicious in salads seasoned with a dressing. And they're packed with vitamins and nutrients, surpassing any other vegetable. It's worth trying growing Brussels sprouts to see for yourself.