According to crop rotation rules, the same crop cannot be grown in the same place for several years in a row. Garlic is no exception. Planting this crop two years in a row increases the risk of stem nematode infestation. It's also important to remember that any crop should not be planted after garlic. At the end of the season, the soil develops with a specific microflora that isn't favorable for all plants.
Peculiarities of the soil after garlic
After a season of growing hot crops, the soil needs time to restore its mineral balance. While growing, the crop absorbs many nutrients but releases beneficial phytoncides into the soil. These can combat fungal infections.
The bulbs themselves are susceptible to diseases (root rot, tobacco thrips, downy mildew, bacterial rot, onion fly). Infections can accumulate in the soil, so plants susceptible to these diseases are not planted the following year.
Legumes are the most convenient successors. They are not susceptible to the diseases common to garlic crops, yet they enrich the soil with nutrients.
What's best to plant in garlic beds?
When choosing vegetables for planting in "garlic soil," focus on the micronutrients remaining in the soil after the spicy predecessor. The choice of the next plant depends largely on the variety.
You may be interested in:Spring species
During growth, summer garlic absorbs nutrients from the upper soil layers. Micronutrients located below the roots remain intact. For this reason, it's best to plant the following after spring garlic:
- carrot;
- garden strawberries;
- beets;
- annual herbs;
- cucumbers;
- early potato varieties.
The listed crops will reach deep layers of soil with nutrients with their root system, and they will also restore the fertility balance.
Winter varieties
Winter weeds are harvested early—late June to early July. Leaving the soil empty until the next season is detrimental to the soil and plants that will be planted the following year.
There are two options for using the land after winter garlic.
- Sowing green manure to restore the nutrient balance of the soil.
- Planting vegetables and herbs that will mature before the end of the season.
In the second case, they sow herbs for greens (dill, parsley, spinach) or fast-maturing vegetables (daikon, radish, early-ripening carrots). The following season, the plants are arranged in the bed as for spring species.
If additional greens aren't needed, green manure crops (barley, rye, phacelia, buckwheat, oilseed radish, and oats) are sown. There's no one-size-fits-all green manure crop. The choice depends on the desired goals. Green manure can be used to replenish the soil with nutrients or to control grass and pests.
What you shouldn't plant
After this plant, the soil is fertile, and the soil contains special enzymes that destroy spores. Theoretically, it can serve as a precursor for any plant.
Don't plant onions. The two crops have similar characteristics. If you plant onions after garlic, the harvest will be poor for two reasons:
- Bacteria and fungi that thrive on garlic bulbs remain in the soil. After winter, they'll happily feast on onion bulbs. If left untreated, the crop will be lost.
- Both bulbous plants require the same micronutrients to grow. They will be completely absorbed by the previous planting, and none will remain for the new season.
Planting cabbage is not recommended. It will grow, but it won't produce a large harvest. If possible, avoid planting melons, squash, zucchini, and celery.
To get a good harvest, you need to not only properly care for the plants but also follow crop rotation rules. Avoid planting vegetables in the same spot for 3-4 years. Garlic leaves certain micronutrients, as well as its own bacteria and pathogens, in the soil. Therefore, choose your next crop wisely to ensure maximum growth.

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