We choose the days for planting garlic in the Urals in winter in 2021 according to the moon.

Garlic is a vegetable crop most often planted in the fall. Winter varieties begin to ripen 1-1.5 months earlier. Experienced vegetable growers recommend planting garlic before winter in the Urals in 2021 according to the lunar calendar. Due to the vast expanse of this region from north to south, the climate of its different parts is taken into account when planting. With proper care, a bountiful harvest can be harvested as early as early summer.

Climate features

The weather conditions of the Ural region are determined by its geographic location, its location inland and its distance from the ocean. The northern part of the region reaches the polar seas, making agriculture impossible. The southern part of the Urals adjoins the Kazakh steppes. The climate in this region is mountainous, while the plains are continental. Conditions in this region are harsh. The mountains, stretching from north to south, act as a climatic barrier.

The western part of the region has a moderately humid climate due to abundant precipitation. The eastern part receives half as much precipitation, making it much drier. Air masses bringing moisture from the Atlantic Ocean have a significant influence on weather conditions in this region. The eastern part is often dry and cold due to Arctic influences. Warm air from Central Asia flows in from the south, resulting in frequently changeable weather.

The warmest part of the Ural region is in the southern part. The north has the least solar radiation. In the polar region, winters are cold, lasting at least eight months a year. Summers are very short, lasting no more than 45 days. In the southern Urals, winters are short, and warm weather lasts four to five months. Autumn and spring vary in length in different parts of the region. Further south, autumns are short and springs are long, while in the northern part, the opposite is true.

Selecting a variety

Only winter varieties are selected for fall planting. They differ from summer varieties in their appearance. Varieties planted before winter have large cloves arranged around a central stem. These plants produce a stalk in summer, which is absent in spring garlic. The latter's cloves are smaller and spirally twisted. To ensure a good harvest in the Urals, only high-quality material is selected for planting. Garlic heads should be free of damage, with a firm base and closed cloves covered in a dry husk.

Winter garlic varieties suitable for growing in the Urals:

1. The early-ripening "Caesar" variety has a semi-sharp flavor and a pleasant aroma. A medium-sized head consists of 6-8 cloves, covered with dirty-gray scales with purple stripes. This variety is noted for its good shelf life and disease resistance. Its main drawback is the uneven size of the cloves. This garlic variety is eaten fresh or used for processing.
2. "Lazurny" garlic has a mid-late ripening period. The bulbs are round and flat, medium in size, and contain 5-6 cloves. The outer scales are lilac. The cloves, with white flesh, have a pungent flavor. "Lazurny" garlic stays fresh for six months and is suitable for canning and cooking.
3. The mid-season "Skif" variety produces round bulbs weighing up to 50 g. Each bulb consists of 4-5 cloves with firm flesh. The bulb is covered with white scales with a slight lilac tint. This variety is highly frost-resistant, but has a short shelf life.
4. The high-yielding "Zherebets" variety is easy to grow and frost-resistant. It produces large bulbs weighing up to 100 g. Each bulb consists of 5-6 large cloves, each weighing up to 20 g. This variety stores well for six months.
5. The "Veliky Novgorod" variety has a medium ripening period. It has a semi-sharp flavor and juicy flesh. It has good winter hardiness and excellent shelf life.
6. The winter variety "Yubileiny Gribovsky" ripens within 3.5 months of emergence. Each head consists of 5-10 cloves. This high-yielding variety is easy to grow. It has excellent winter hardiness and is immune to diseases and moisture stress.
7. The Losevsky variety has a medium ripening period. The berries are large, with firm flesh and a sharp flavor. It has good frost resistance, keeps well for six months, and consistently produces a high yield.
8. The early-ripening "Bashkir 85" variety matures in 85-90 days. The garlic bulbs are round, slightly flattened, and contain 4-6 cloves. They have dense flesh with a pleasant, tangy flavor.
9. The Petrovsky garlic variety matures in 100 days. It produces medium-sized heads of 5-7 cloves, covered in white-purple scales with dark veins. It has a pungent flavor.

Favorable days

The best time to plant garlic is 1-1.5 months before the first autumn frosts. A good harvest is obtained if the vegetable is planted in late September or October. If planting is done later, the cloves don't have time to root and are killed by the winter cold. Planting times may vary depending on weather conditions or the phases of the moon.

By region

To plant garlic in winter, the ideal time is 30 to 40 days before the onset of stable subzero temperatures, while the soil is still warm. During this time, the vegetable takes root well but doesn't have time to germinate, preserving nutrients for the winter. The following planting times are recommended for different parts of the Ural region:

• in the southern part – from October 1 to 10;
• in the central part - in the last days of September or until October 7;
• in the northern Urals – from September 10 to 20.

According to the lunar calendar

Many vegetable growers choose September or October planting dates based on the lunar phases. Garlic is a vegetable crop that produces fruit underground. The best time to plant such plants is during the waning phase. At this time, plant sap moves downwards, allowing the underground portion of the plant to develop more actively. Vegetables planted at this time thrive, produce a good harvest, and are more resistant to infection.

Favorable days for planting winter garlic varieties are presented in the table:

Features of cultivation

When choosing a site for winter garlic, consider crop rotation rules. This ensures healthy growth and good yields. The best predecessors for garlic are cabbage, pumpkin, cucumbers, tomatoes, peas, and zucchini. The soil after these crops is enriched with organic matter beneficial for garlic. Avoid planting garlic after onions or potatoes, as they share many common pests and diseases.

Soil preparation

The vegetable should not be planted in soil fertilized with manure this season. This impedes proper plant development. Garlic bulbs grow small and loose. Excessive unrotted organic matter increases the risk of fungal infections. Highly acidic soil is not suitable for planting the vegetable. To improve its quality, dolomite flour or crushed chalk is added during bed preparation.

A few days before planting, the bed is dug over. Compost or humus is added at the same time. The soil is also enriched with superphosphate and potassium sulfate. After adding fertilizer, the soil is dug over again. Then, a raised bed is formed at a height of 20 cm from the soil surface. To disinfect the soil, a copper sulfate solution is applied. The day before planting, urea is added to the soil at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 m².

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Instead of chemical fertilizers, it's useful to use green manure. To do this, sow beans, oats, rye, barley, or mustard in the area where the garlic will be planted in the second ten days of August. When the grass reaches 30 cm in height, cut it back and plow the soil. The plant material decomposes quickly and enriches the soil with essential nutrients.

Preparation of planting material

Three to four weeks before the intended planting date, select garlic bulbs are placed in the bottom drawer of the refrigerator or another cool place with a temperature of 4°C. They are then carefully separated into cloves, taking care not to damage the scales. Any damaged cloves are discarded, leaving only large, even cloves. The selected garlic is disinfected by placing it in a pink solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes or soaking it in a solution of Fitosporin-M diluted in water for half an hour.

Landing

For planting, choose a dry, sunny morning. In a pre-prepared bed, make furrows 7 to 10 cm deep, depending on the size of the cloves. Keep a distance of 20 cm between them. plant garlic in holes The same size. The cloves are spaced 10 to 15 cm apart. The garlic is laid on its side or upright with the bottom facing down. The furrows are filled with fertile soil and compacted slightly.

The top of the bed is mulched with dry leaves, straw, or peat. The protective layer should be 5-10 cm thick, depending on climate conditions. If winter temperatures drop below -25°C, additional branches or spruce branches are placed on top. These branches promote snow accumulation, which is necessary for additional insulation.

Care

Right after planting winter garlic It doesn't require watering or fertilizing. All maintenance is postponed until spring, once the snow melts. If the bed was covered with branches or spruce branches in the fall, they are removed when warmer days arrive. A fine mulch is left in place to protect emerging shoots from spring frosts.

After the green shoots appear, the garlic is fed with nitrogen. A solution of urea, nitroammophoska, or ammonium nitrate is used, consisting of 10 liters of water and 20 g of the fertilizer. Fertilizer is applied 15 days after the sprouts emerge. Fertilizer is applied again after another two weeks. While the garlic is growing, the soil is regularly loosened to a depth of 3 cm. Weeds are also removed. Water the plants 1-2 times a week with warm water, but do not overwater.

In early June, the plants are fed for the third time to stimulate bulb formation. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are used for this purpose. Superphosphate, monopotassium phosphate, or potassium nitrate are suitable. These fertilizers are diluted and applied according to the instructions. An ash solution can be used instead of chemical fertilizers.

Watering frequency remains the same in summer, but the amount of water used is increased during hot weather. The day after watering, loosen the soil to prevent it from crusting over. Twenty days before the scheduled harvest, watering is stopped completely. Some garlic varieties produce stalks during the growing season. When the stalks reach 15 cm, they are broken off to prevent the plant from wasting energy supporting the flower stalks.

Disease prevention

Bacterial infections develop on garlic during storage and then penetrate the soil during planting. One of the most dangerous diseases is penicillium rot, which affects the base of the garlic. Signs of this disease include yellowing and subsequent death of the leaves. To prevent this disease, store garlic at a humidity level of no more than 75% and disinfect it before planting.

Another dangerous disease is rust. It appears as brown and orange spots on the leaves. To prevent it, treat the leaves after the shoots emerge with a 0.4% solution of Oxychom or a 0.2% solution of Ridomil. Other fungicides are also suitable for spraying. The treatment is repeated three times, 15 days apart.

Downy mildew causes grayish spots on the plant. To prevent downy mildew, regularly apply fertilizer to the soil. Spraying with Ridomil and planting calendula between the rows also helps.

Common mistakes

Some gardeners prepare the garlic bed too late. The soil must be dug and fertilized in advance. Otherwise, the fertilizer doesn't have time to disperse into the soil, and the bed doesn't settle. Then, in the fall, the cloves sink too deep, and seedlings fail to emerge in the spring. Another common mistake is improper watering. Although garlic is a moisture-loving plant, it shouldn't be watered too frequently or too heavily. The soil should be moderately moist.

Winter garlic can be planted using cloves and bulblets. The latter produce heads of 1-2 cloves. These bulblets can be used for planting in the fall. This method allows you to preserve your favorite variety and save on planting material.

Winter garlic is an undemanding crop. It's easy to grow. The plant has good frost resistance, so it thrives even in northern regions. Winter varieties are planted late, 1-1.5 months before the onset of winter frosts. The lunar calendar is used as a guide when determining the planting date.