How to control aphids on orchids at home

Orchid

Orchids are often attacked by pests. During the flowering season, the plant is attacked by mites, flies, gnats, and mosquitoes. But the most dangerous pest – Aphids on orchids. The symptoms of their appearance differ significantly from those of other pests. Recovering from the infestation is difficult, but possible if you follow certain care guidelines for the affected plant.

What is dangerous?

Aphids on orchids are parasites that gradually destroy the entire plant. They are especially dangerous for the Phalaenopsis variety, where aphids will likely completely destroy the flower.

It is necessary to get rid of it because:

It multiplies very quickly and is capable of destroying a flower entirely within two days if no measures are taken.
Within a few hours of infestation, aphids suck out all the vital juices from the orchid and the bush dries out.
Once in the plant's vegetative system, the parasite leaves behind a dangerous poison instead of vital plant juices, blocking further access to nutrients from the plant's nutrient supply. Therefore, supplemental feeding will not help control the insects or restore the plant.
The spread of poison throughout the flower causes leaf stickinessThis attracts insects that can destroy the orchid entirely. The mucus traps bacteria, causing the plant to turn black, rot, and emit an unpleasant odor.
Even if you manage to get rid of it, it imperceptibly sheds its skin, from which new larvae later emerge. The plant must be treated with a special agent.

Please note!

Controlling aphids on orchids is difficult because it needs to be done in a timely manner. Missing the time can be critical and lead to the death of the flower.

Aphids don't eat fruit, but the idea that they're harmless is misleading. They don't actually consume the flowers themselves. By sucking water, minerals, vitamins, and microelements from the stems, they deprive the flowers of nutrients, causing the buds to die. They also spread harmful substances and infect the crop with viruses from other plants. The chemicals they secrete during their life cycle attract insects that feed on the flowers.

Types of aphids

Aphids are insects that appear on flowers and fruit crops, devouring the damaged plant from root tips to bud tips. Before frantically searching various sources for "aphids on orchids, how to get rid of them," it's important to correctly identify the insect species. Different aphid species require different methods of control, and their effectiveness directly depends on the product chosen.

Types:

Mealybug. Affects houseplants, apple trees, citrus fruits, and grapes. This is the most easily identified variety. Its snow-white or creamy color makes it resemble flour. Its consistency also resembles this product: when touched, it resembles dust and leaves a white or grayish stain on your hands. This is due to the numerous tiny, snow-white bristles covering the pest's tiny body. In apartments or greenhouses, aphids reproduce at an incredible rate, posing a significant threat to plant life. If unnoticed, they can turn into swarms, destroying everything around them.
Leaf aphids. They appear on young shoots. Once they attack leaves, they immediately move on to the stems, buds, and root system. Their distinctive yellow-green color complicates identification, as they are not immediately visible on the leaves. If control agents are not used promptly and the orchid is not treated, ants will come to the aphids' aid and eat the remaining living leaves. Signs of leaf aphids include curled leaves, deformed stems, and rapid drying out despite frequent watering.
Greenhouse aphids. Growing an orchid in a greenhouse doesn't guarantee protection against the parasite's reproduction, but rather accelerates its spread. They are so toxic that they even destroy weeds around the orchid, not to mention the orchid itself. Leaves turn yellow and dry out. The danger is that greenhouse aphids carry bacteria and viruses that settle deep within the orchid's vegetative system.
White. The white variety is easier to control indoors than any other. The difficulty lies in identification. The balls are covered in transparent wax, concealing them from view, so aphids are often discovered only after they have already destroyed half the crop. Feeding on the beneficial substances in the plant's vegetative system, they cause lifelessness and lethargy.
Shield aphid. Named for its flattened shield shape and rusty orange color, the aphid is completely motionless, gradually devouring the entire plant. It dies in the same place where it lived, leaving behind its larvae. The newly formed larvae are even more powerful and damaging than their progenitors.

Attention!

White aphids carry viruses and microbes, so even after getting rid of them, there is a risk of sudden death of the flower.

The universal remedy for combating every type is early detection of parasites. In other cases, control is tailored individually to each species.

Signs and causes of infection

You should examine the orchid for signs of aphids on the back of the leaf:

Small insects are the first and most reliable sign. They don't move, but they devour flowers at breakneck speed.
Loss of bud color. If a flower was bright purple two days ago and suddenly turns white today, check for aphids.
The tips of the leaves have dried out.
The stem is rotting near the root.
The petals change shape unexpectedly.

If you notice one or more signs, you should begin treatment immediately.

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The appearance of pests of all types is provoked by environmental conditions:

High temperatures. Hot temperatures outside or inside the house encourage aphid development.
The air is too dry. In the summer, when there's no rain outside or inside the apartment, the air becomes dry.
Deficiency or excess of beneficial vitamins and minerals.
The infection spread in the nursery where the seedlings were purchased. The flower arrived at the planting site already infected.
Infected insects have moved from the soil.
The infection came from a neighbor's plants.

Aphid control involves addressing specific symptoms and promoting overall plant health.

How to get rid of aphids on orchids

Every gardener combats aphids in their own way, but this fight always involves combining several methods to maximize effectiveness. The two main methods are mechanical removal and the use of biological products:

Controlling aphids with mechanical removal. Mechanical removal of aphids is not the safest option. Scratching the pests with your fingers can damage the leaves and stems, which can lead to further plant death. A gentler method is cleaning with a stream of water. When the water hits the affected area, it gently cleanses the insects, like dirt. The pressure should not be too strong, but still sufficient to wash away the insects. A more energy-intensive but no less effective method is to treat each leaf with a cotton pad soaked in potassium permanganate. The potassium permanganate dries the leaves and disinfects the resulting damage, slowly killing the pests.
Biological products. They contain poisons that are safe for humans and the harvest, but are lethal to aphids and other insects that can damage the harvest. These products contain soil fungi that form neurotoxins when they interact with the pests. The insects are unable to withstand the chemicals and die within two days. Popular and effective products include Fitoverm, Strela, Confidor, and Entobacterin. It's important to use them carefully and wisely.
Folk remedies. Folk methods for controlling aphids are completely safe for humans and other plants because they often don't contain any chemicals. Option one: essential oils. Dilute a few drops of peppermint oil in 300 ml of water. Place the resulting solution in a spray bottle and spray it over the entire plant. Essential oils are not suitable for use in greenhouses or in high humidity areas, as they can burn the plant. Another folk remedy is a decoction of citrus peels (lemon, orange, grapefruit). Spray several times a day from a spray bottle.
Chemicals. Highly concentrated substances that kill the entire aphid life system are called insecticides. Popular options include Bayer Garden, Iskra Bio, and Fufanon.

Advice.

To control aphids on the root system, water the plants with an alcohol solution—300 grams of alcohol per 1 liter of water. It's important to apply this directly to the roots to avoid the harmful substance coming into contact with the buds. The duration of preventative treatment is two weeks. If you notice root rot or wilting of the buds, discontinue use immediately.

It is impossible to get rid of aphids completely, but you can prevent further occurrence:

Scald the leaves with boiling water.
Manually remove emerging aphids. The key is to be careful not to damage the protective layer. Wear gloves when removing aphids. This is a safety precaution.
You can plant onions and garlic around the orchid flowerbed – their smell repels aphids.
In autumn and in April-May, clear the area around the planting and treat it with solutions against aphids for prevention.