Simple and effective ways to get rid of spider mites on orchids

Spider mites can appear on orchids both indoors and in the wild. Colonies are visible to the naked eye only when they are widely distributed. Scientists estimate that under favorable conditions, spiders can produce 20 generations per season. The time from the first larvae to sexual maturity takes about three weeks, and much shorter in more favorable climates.

What does a spider mite look like and how dangerous is it?

Getting rid of spider mites on orchids is only possible if you know what they look like. This insect has:

• oval body measuring 0.3-0.5 mm;
• the color ranges from red to green, but the chitinous cover can change shade depending on what is used as food;
• 4 pairs of legs, provided that the individual is an adult;
• average life expectancy of 5 weeks;
• 3 pairs of legs in small individuals;
• small area of ​​movement.

Throughout its life, the insect creates fine global webs that entangle foliage, stems, and even buds. If left untreated, rapid reproduction will destroy the plant.

Get rid of spider mites On orchids, you need to do it as quickly as possible. The main threat is that the pest:

• actively reproduces;
• has a great appetite;
• able to spread to neighboring plants;
• hides under the surface of the soil;
• lays larvae in fallen leaves.

How quickly a plant will die without treatment depends on the extent of the mite infestation on the stems. General consequences include:

• a sharp decrease in photosynthesis;
• weakness of the stem.

Due to the fact that the exotic beauty is affected by such insects, this reduces immunity, which increases the likelihood of developing a bacterial or viral infection.

Conditions of appearance and signs of damage

On phalaenopsis, root mites will multiply rapidly when:

• dry air;
• high temperature;
• provided that the plant has a weakened immune system.

Experts have found that the spider feels comfortable when:

• temperature of +28+32C;
• humidity less than 50%.

Flat-bodied ticks can develop year-round in protected environments, and they don't require any special conditions. High humidity may only delay the transformation of a small tick into an adult, but the process is inevitable.

Mites settle on orchids to feed on the plant's sap. This occurs by piercing the surface of the leaves or stems, through which the pest injects a substance capable of disrupting the cell membrane. This accelerates the flow of sap and its exit through the damaged area, through which the spider feeds.

Air penetrates the structure through the hole made, causing the green foliage to turn silver and become covered in webbing. Soon the leaves will turn yellow, and the affected areas will quickly spread throughout the plant, causing them to fall off.

In some cases, webbing can be found not only on the foliage but also on the surface of the buds. This is a sign of a large spider mite infestation, and if the orchid is not treated for spider mites, it will die. The following will occur:

• gradual yellowing;
• curling of leaf tips;
• drying out;
• dying off of leaves and buds.

If the orchid is not treated, mites can cause bacterial, viral, or fungal diseases, which are indicated by the presence of dark spots and wet areas.

Symptoms of orchid mite infestation

Control measures should be chosen based on the signs of spider presence. It's very difficult for inexperienced gardeners to detect the arthropods, especially without optical instruments. Characteristic signs include the formation of:

1. The underside of the leaves has silvery or white webbing, which when pressed turns reddish and turns into a liquid substance.
2. Small white spots on the surface of the leaf blade, which look like multiple punctures made with a thin needle, leading to the death of the affected tissue.

How to inspect a plant

Control of spider mites on orchids begins with a thorough examination of the flower for the presence of the parasites. They appear varied, so it's important to examine all their forms. Since it's nearly impossible to see the spider mites, pay attention to the following:

• accumulation of insects on the underside of leaves;
• sudden wilting without reason;
• formation of large and white spots;
• white web all over the plant;
• twisted and dried leaves.

Don't confuse black and white spots, as the former are a sign of fungus and mold. Eliminating the fungus doesn't necessarily solve the problem, as the immune system is weakened and the colonies will continue to actively grow. Pests prefer young, succulent foliage, so it's the young plants that die.

Methods for getting rid of ticks

Folk remedies are less dangerous for orchids, so they are initially preferred. One method you can choose is an infusion or decoction based on an insecticidal herb.

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Recipes:

1. Cyclamen tuber. To prepare, cut the tuber into several pieces and simmer in boiling water for an hour. Let the mixture steep for 24 hours, then strain. Treatment involves spraying with a spray bottle every 5 days.
2. Onion. Place 15 g of chopped onion or 6 g of its peel in 1 liter of warm, preferably purified, water. Let it steep for 7 hours, using a sealed container.
3. Dandelion root. Chop 30 g of the root into small pieces. You can collect the pieces yourself or purchase them at a pharmacy. Pour 1 liter of water over the prepared material.
4. Garlic. Use 17 cloves crushed in a garlic press as a base. Infuse for 5 days in 1 liter of water. Use a dark-colored container with a tight-fitting lid. To prepare the solution, use 6 g per 1 liter. Spray every 5 days.

Numerous products have been developed for the rapid elimination of insects and their larvae. In residential settings, gentle methods that are harmless to humans and pets are acceptable. Avermectin-based chemicals are recommended, including:

• Actellica;
• Fitoverms;
• Actofita;
• Vermitek.

If the air temperature is +30C, then treat the plant in 4 stages, applying the preparations not only to the leaves, but also to the surface of the substrate, as well as to the windowsill, stands, saucer and nearby flowers.

It's important to emphasize that ticks actively develop immunity to chemicals; avoid using the same treatment over a long period of time. Flatworms can be controlled by spraying with the following products:

• Fosalona;
• Ambushema;
• Acrexa;
• Tsimbusha.

Pre-dilute the products to a concentration of 0.05-0.08%. Phalaenopsis mites are quite difficult to remove, as they can hide in the most hidden places, such as the core, inside buds, and elsewhere. The solution won't be able to reach these areas, making the chances of treating the eggs and preventing their maturation virtually zero.

Orchid blooming during spider mite infestation

Treatment must be carried out with extreme caution to achieve maximum effectiveness. The extent of damage the parasite will cause to the bloom depends on the number of mites present on the flower. If mites are detected at an early stage, gentler methods are sufficient.

1. Wipe the leaves with an alcohol solution.
2. Treat the buds with a solution based on laundry soap.
3. You can use a hot shower.

During the active flowering period, if the plant is infested, generously treat the area where the insects congregate. While they generally don't harm the blooming beauty, neglect and the spread of pests can lead to death. In such cases, only chemicals should be used. Otherwise, the chemical will kill the orchid.

Botanists have proven that spider mites can be eradicated without disrupting the flowering period. It's best to use folk remedies to prevent spider infestation. If a colony is discovered when buds, flowers, and stems are affected, the likelihood of success is very slim.

What to do if cobwebs appear on flowers and buds

The presence of webbing on the surface of a bud or flower is a sign that pests are rapidly multiplying. It's difficult to detect the tiny insects in the early stages of development, so important immediate measures are required. The infested plant should be isolated from other flowers. The following steps should be taken:

• removal of flowers that have damage;
• removing affected buds;
• cutting off bulblets from leaves on which colonies of pests were found;
• removal of parasites with tweezers, especially if they are located in the very core of the trunk.

It's not advisable to remove young shoots when performing a full pruning, as they contain a large amount of sap and nutrients. It's better to perform a superficial cleaning and remove damaged parts.

It is advisable to double wash with laundry soap, treat with insecticides and dry before planting.

Prevention of infection

Orchids are often attacked by spider mites. Only tested and disinfected potting soil should be used for planting. When purchasing new plants, quarantine them for two weeks in a separate room.

It is important to implement:

• regular inspection of the flower;
• wiping the stems and leaves with a disinfectant;
• watering, for which use warm water, which helps to wash away the parasite larvae and adult individuals;
• Regular inspection of the soil to prevent over-watering or over-drying;
• timely removal of water droplets that remain inside the inflorescences after spraying;
• humidifying the room, as dry air promotes the active reproduction of pests;
• regular spraying.

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Spider mites on orchids are a serious problem, and if they occur, immediate action is necessary to prevent the plant's death. Numerous methods have been developed to help with this problem, but choosing the right method should be done carefully to avoid worsening the plant's condition.