How to Plant a Plum Tree in Spring: A Step-by-Step Guide

Plum

To plant plum trees in open ground in spring, you need to understand all the nuances and follow simple step-by-step instructions. It's equally important to choose a healthy, undamaged tree that's suitable for the region and will withstand the climate without problems.

How to choose a good seedling

Two groups of factors must be considered: varietal characteristics and fruiting habits, as well as the plant's condition. If you buy a diseased or severely damaged tree, even with proper cultivation practices and ideal growing conditions, it will not thrive. The most important factors are:

Harvest time: Varies from July to October. Selection should be based on the region. If the summer is not too hot and the cold period may arrive early, early or mid-season varieties are best. Varieties with a long growing season are good for southern regions.
Fruit sizes and characteristics. They vary in color, size, and flavor. Some varieties are selected for fresh consumption, while others are used for preserves.
Is the variety zoned for the region? Choose only varieties that grow well in the region, tolerate the climate, and produce fruit without problems. If you buy a non-zone-regulated variety, there's a high risk that the plant won't thrive.
Frost resistance. This is one of the most important aspects, as if the tree is heat-loving, it will die after the first winter. Be sure to check the temperature ranges acceptable for plum trees. Ideally, there should be enough reserve to ensure the seedling survives the winter without problems.
Pollination conditions. Most often, a tree requires a nearby pollinator for proper fruiting. If there's another plum tree in the area or in a neighboring area, that's sufficient. However, if there's no nearby tree, you'll need to plant at least two specimens, each of different varieties.

Advice!

If there's not enough space for two seedlings, there's an option to graft two or three varieties onto a single rootstock. This isn't an easy task, so it's best to ask an experienced gardener for help.

Once you've identified the right variety, you need to select a strong seedling to ensure it takes root well and starts growing immediately. This is easy if you know the basics and follow these recommendations:

Root system type. It can be open or closed. The former is much cheaper, while the latter, sold in a container with soil, takes root better and is recommended for beginners. The closed variety is also advantageous because it is less susceptible to damage during transportation, although it is heavier.
Root condition. This part is easy to inspect when the plant is open; the main shoots should be strong and resilient, with numerous branches, and free of damage, dry spots, and dark rot. Nothing is visible in containers, so pay attention to the bottom; there shouldn't be many shoots sticking out, and to the soil above—if it's very wet or damp, there may be rot inside.
The trunk should not be crooked or deformed, and branches at the base are not allowed. The optimal distance from the root collar to the grafting point is 7 to 10 cm. The minimum thickness is 1 cm, and the height is usually about a meter. A long and thin seedling indicates it was grown in unfavorable conditions.
The buds should not be open. Planting is recommended when the tree is dormant, so swollen buds, let alone leaves, are undesirable. The tree will devote all its resources to developing the above-ground part, which will result in poor establishment and may even die during the first winter.

Buy in stores or directly at variety testing stations, where your favorite variety will be dug out of the ground before your eyes. Markets often sell identical trees disguised as different varieties, and there's no guarantee the grafting was done properly.

When is the best time to plant?

It's recommended to carry out planting in spring or fall; summer is undesirable due to the heat and the processes occurring within the plant. Each season has its pros and cons, which should be considered when deciding the best time to plant. As for spring, the following are some considerations:

There's a whole season for rooting and adaptation. The key is to plant the plum tree on time; if you plant it after the sap has started to flow, the plum tree will have a hard time establishing itself.
Over the summer, the roots grow well. Before winter, the tree stocks up on all the necessary micronutrients to survive the cold season.
It's important to choose the right moment and carry out the work while it's still cool. The optimal average daily temperature is around 5 degrees Celsius (41 degrees Fahrenheit). Then, as the soil warms, the plant's roots will awaken and absorb moisture.
If the weather outside is very warm and clear, it is better to shade the tree for the first time, then the trunk will not get sunburned.

When planting in spring, ensure proper care to ensure the plant thrives. If there's no rain, water every two weeks. It's also important to protect the seedling from damage at first. If you have pets in the yard, consider installing a small fence.

Fall planting has its own peculiarities that differ from the first option. Therefore, it's best to understand them and decide when to carry out the work:

Plum trees should be planted at least three weeks before the onset of cold weather. If planted late, the seedlings won't have time to root and will die in winter. However, it's important for the tree to have already entered dormancy.
The selection of varieties during this period is extremely wide. All nurseries sell a full range of planting material. But in the spring, most often, they only have what's left over from the fall.
No additional care is needed. The weather is usually cloudy, the soil is moist enough, and the tree needs nothing else.
When winter sets in early and cold, the seedlings are at high risk of dying. In this case, bending the plum tree down and covering it will significantly increase its chances of survival.

If a tree still has yellow foliage, it may be a sign that it's not yet ready for winter. Ideally, buy a leafless plant in which sap flow and shoot formation have stopped.

Planting recommendations for different regions

The right time for planting also depends on the location. Climate conditions can either facilitate or hinder plum tree rooting, so it's important to take these into account. Recommendations for spring:

In southern regions, planting should be done in late March or early April. If spring is early, the timing shifts even further. The key is to plant before the buds open.
In the central zone, the favorable time usually begins in mid-April. However, it's also important to monitor the weather; in recent years, in the Moscow region, work has often been carried out 1-2 weeks earlier.
In Siberia and the Urals, this is late April or early May. It all depends on the region; each has its own climate, and spring arrives at different times. Plum planting in the Leningrad Region is best done at this time, as the season there is usually late and cold.

When planting in the fall, it's also important to consider the region. In fact, in this case, it's even more crucial, since if winter arrives suddenly and harshly, the tree will likely die. The timing in this case is as follows:

In the south, work can be carried out until late autumn – late October or even early November. Don't rush, or the warmer weather will return; choose a time when temperatures are stable.
For temperate climates, the preferred period is from late September to mid-October. However, if an early winter is forecast, shift the planting date to allow the tree a month to establish roots.
In the Urals and Siberia, plums should be planted in early autumn. However, in some regions, the planting date can be delayed by 2-3 weeks, especially if warm weather is forecast.

Advice!

If possible, avoid planting in cold regions in the fall; plums do not thrive in such conditions. Fall planting should be chosen for the south or central regions.

If you missed the right time in the fall, don't plant the seedlings. It's better to bury them horizontally and cover them with snow, or plant them in a bucket and place them in a cool basement until spring. This will ensure the seedlings don't die during the cold period.

Preparing the landing site

This step should be completed well before the main part. At a minimum, in the fall if planting in the spring, and vice versa if planting at the end of the season. Many people prepare the hole a year in advance; experts recommend this option. The process consists of several important steps.

Where to place

Plum trees shouldn't be planted just anywhere; they can only grow and bear fruit properly under favorable conditions. Choose a location in advance, clearing it of shrubs, weeds, and debris. Follow these plant requirements:

Good lighting in the area. In the shade, the tree develops poorly, the trunk becomes twisted, and the branches become deformed. Shade is acceptable, but not more than a few hours a day.
Maintain a minimum distance of 3 meters from fences and buildings. This is necessary for normal tree growth, adequate ventilation, and ease of maintenance.
The location should be protected from cold winds and drafts. Plum trees do not grow and bear fruit well in such conditions.
The groundwater table should be at least 1.5 meters deep. If the water level is too low, the shallow root system will begin to rot over time.
Select sites on slightly elevated areas. The tree should not be flooded by meltwater in the spring.
The distance between trees should be adjusted according to the size of their crown and height. For medium-sized plants, the minimum distance is 2 meters, while for tall trees, it should be 3 meters or more. When planting a garden, leave a gap of 4 or 5 meters between rows, respectively, and plant strictly according to the layout.
Avoid planting near plants that compete for nutrients and have similar root systems. These include: raspberries, sea buckthorn, sweet cherries, currants, peaches, pears, walnuts, and sea buckthorn. Best neighbors are apple trees and other plum varieties.

Don't forget about pollination. A neighboring tree should be within 30 meters. Pair planting is often used, where two varieties are selected (from regionally recognized varieties; it's best to look at photos of the fruit to determine which plums will grow) and planted close together.

Prepare the hole correctly

Light, breathable soil is best for trees. If the soil is poor or has a lot of clay, don't worry; with proper preparation, the plum tree will grow in ideal conditions. Work should be carried out six months to a year in advance, preparing the hole:

In the selected area, dig a hole 70 cm to a meter in diameter and approximately 70-80 cm deep. The shape doesn't matter, the main thing is to remove the soil.
If the soil is too acidic, add dolomite flour. It will lower the pH and act as an additional fertilizer. Simply spread the mixture evenly over the bottom of the previously dug hole.
If there's a risk of groundwater flooding in the spring, it's advisable to create drainage at the bottom. To do this, deepen the hole by 20 cm and add a layer of broken brick or small stones.
Prepare a nutrient mixture. To do this, mix equal parts compost or rotted manure with peat, then add black soil (about a third of the total volume). Add 75 grams each of potassium sulfate and urea, as well as 25 grams of superphosphate. Another nutrient-rich option is to add 2 cups of nitrophoska and 2-3 liters of wood ash.
Fill the hole three-quarters full with the mixture. Spread it evenly and compact it with your feet or a log. Add garden soil on top, making a small mound, as the surface will settle anyway. If a hole forms in the prepared area after a month, add more soil to smooth out the depression.

Advice!

If the hole was dug in a field or in a place where it would be difficult to find later, it is better to drive a stick into the middle as a mark.

Even in a fertile area, it's important to prepare a hole to create ideal conditions for the young tree's survival and growth. This should be done in advance to ensure the soil settles and the tree doesn't grow too deep.

How to prepare a hill for planting

If the groundwater level is shallow or there's a risk of flooding in the spring, it's best to prepare a raised bed suitable for spring planting. This option is suitable for gardens on the north or east side of a slope, as well as in areas with very heavy and compacted soil. Follow these steps:

Mark out a circle with a diameter of approximately 2 meters. First, carefully remove the sod from the entire area to prevent grass and weeds from growing in later. It's best to dig about 30 cm deep. Discard all the removed soil; you won't need it.
Prepare a nutrient mixture of humus, peat, and black soil in equal proportions. Add 3 liters of ash and 200 g of nitrophoska to enrich the soil with nutrients.
Pour a layer at least 80 cm thick. This will create a mound that may settle considerably over time. In this case, add more soil until the mound reaches 40 to 50 cm in height after settlement.

If the mound is in danger of collapsing, it can be strengthened by placing boards around the perimeter or covering the surface with grass. Sodding will make the mound much more stable. The rest of the work is the same; the placement of the tree makes little difference.

Planting instructions

Planting a plum tree correctly is crucial; the tree will quickly establish itself and begin to grow and develop vigorously. Prepare a shovel and a container of water, allowing it to settle if it's tap water. Follow these steps:

Make a hole slightly larger in diameter than the root ball of the seedling. If you purchased a bare-root plant, it's best to soak it in water for a couple of hours and then dip it in a mixture of clay and compost. Make the hole deep enough so that the root collar is above the surface.
Place the seedling in the hole, spreading the roots around the perimeter so they don't bend or touch the sides. Place a level board on the ground and check the root collar; it should be slightly above the surface, as the tree will inevitably settle slightly over time.
Add a layer of soil approximately 15 cm thick. Level it, cover all the roots, and then pour in 30 liters of water. The soil will settle, filling all the voids, and the liquid will soak the bottom of the hole, allowing the roots to grow properly.
Install a support to ensure the seedling stays upright for the first few days. You can drive in two stakes.
Fill the soil to the top, creating a slight elevation. Make a furrow around the perimeter to prevent water from spreading during watering and rainfall.
Tie the trunk. Use soft twine, but do not pull it too tightly, avoid squeezing the wood, or damaging the bark. Mulch the soil surface with peat to retain moisture.

It's best to carry out the work in the morning or evening, when the sun is out. If bright sun is forecast, shade the seedling for 2-3 days to prevent sunburn. Firm the soil firmly; if it settles after a few days, add more.

How to care for the plant after planting

Since the seedling needs to adapt throughout the season, it's important to provide it with ideal conditions for development. It's important to follow a few simple guidelines; they won't take much time, but they'll be very beneficial and help you grow a healthy plant that will survive the winter. Keep the following in mind:

Water only if the weather is dry and the soil is dehydrated. Water every two weeks, adding 2-3 buckets of water at a time. Let the water sit for half a day to warm up to the ambient temperature. It's best to do this in the afternoon after sunset; the water will be absorbed and absorbed more quickly by the roots.
Mulch the surface after each watering. This will prevent a hard crust from forming on the soil, and if you use peat, it will act as an additional fertilizer. You can also use readily available materials: grass clippings, wilted weeds, straw, or sawdust. Leave a space around the root collar to prevent rot.
If you don't use mulch, loosen the soil around the tree trunk every two weeks, as well as after rain and watering. Don't go deeper than 3 cm to avoid damaging the upper rootlets.
There is no need to feed the plum tree during the first 2-3 years, as the prepared mixture contains enough nutrients.
In the fall, pruning is necessary. To do this, choose a shaping method in advance and remove all unnecessary shoots according to a plan. If the tree is growing normally, simply shorten the branches by about a third of their length. Use pruning shears, cut precisely and evenly, and do this at least a month before the onset of cold weather.
If planted in Siberia or the Urals, it's best to protect the plant from the cold during its first winter. To do this, build a wooden frame, place it, and fill it with pine branches or dry leaves.

The stakes used to tie the tree should be removed after 1-2 months, once the plum tree has rooted and begun to grow. In the summer, if the weather is very hot, you can shade the plant with agrotextile to help retain moisture and prevent sunburn.

Care recommendations for the first seasons

In addition to the activities described above, there may be additional work that needs to be done. These should be done infrequently, typically once or twice a year. Keep these simple guidelines in mind:

Remove root suckers. Don't cut them out; it's easier to prepare a 10% urea solution and water the shoots 3-4 times on a sunny day. After this, they will die.
Fertilize once every 2-3 years. Use a complex composition for fruit trees.
To improve pollination, avoid using chemicals during the flowering period. To attract bees, you can spray the crown with water and sugar.
Spray the plant with a copper sulfate solution in the fall and spring. This is an effective preventative against fungal diseases and pests.
If disease or insect infestations appear on the tree during the summer, purchase a suitable solution and spray it immediately. Once fruiting begins, treat the tree annually for worms, otherwise at least half the fruit will be spoiled.

Advice!

Whitewash the trunk and lower branches not only in spring, but also in autumn, to destroy pests and their eggs.

Landing errors

Inexperienced gardeners may perform the work incorrectly, which can lead to poor growth or even death of the plum tree. It's best to learn these guidelines; this will help you avoid mistakes and ensure the tree's successful survival:

Shade or planting in a place with high groundwater table.
Deepening of the root collar.
Severe damage to roots during transplantation.
Carrying out work after the buds have opened.

If damaged roots are found, it's best to remove them and treat all cuts with a potassium permanganate solution. If there are any tears in the bark, spray them with a copper sulfate solution or seal them with garden pitch.