How to make inexpensive paths in the garden with your own hands from scrap materials: inexpensive options

Construction

The material used for garden paths depends on the owner's budget, the design of the garden or cottage, and personal preferences. If their cottage only grows vegetables and fruits, gardeners tend not to invest in paths, but rather make it easier to navigate between beds using inexpensive or free methods. If you have a summer cottage that is used primarily as a place to relax, you may prefer to use more durable, expensive natural materials (stone, tiles) to improve the paths.

The material used to make the track

Garden paths are created not only to quickly get to the desired location without getting shoes dirty, but also to highlight the owner's taste, to fit in with the overall style of the garden or property, and to avoid significant material costs. For a wooden house, paths and trails made of planks or laid logs are suitable. For more expensive structures, tiles and stone are appropriate. Paths in a summer cottage are constructed using:

  • made of stone;
  • from pebbles;
  • made of wood;
  • made of brick;
  • from tiles;
  • made of concrete;
  • from plastic bottle caps.
Attention!
When selecting the material for making paths, consider its durability, practicality, ease of installation, and cost.

Path project

Before the main work begins, the location of the main buildings on the site is determined. This is done by drawing a plan on a computer or by hand on paper. First, the location of the house, various outbuildings, barbecue area, children's play area, and green spaces is indicated. bedsThen they are connected with paths and walkways, so that in rainy weather, the deepest corners of the garden can be reached without problems or getting shoes dirty. The fully thought-out and prepared project is transferred to the garden area.

DIY garden paths

Markup

Path markings are made on-site to establish the direction and width, which is necessary when laying brick or prefabricated slab paths. Markings are typically made using a taut rope tied to driven stakes. For a more accurate idea of ​​the path's width, the side edges of the markings are dusted with chalk or lime. A white line is also used to mark the location of future plantings (bushes, trees) and flower beds.

When laying out the groundwork, consider that the main approaches to the house and important buildings are made wider, using more expensive materials. The passages between garden beds are made smaller, using less expensive materials that complement the main structure. The path to the back gate, used to remove grass clippings and weeds from the property, is made of simple, durable material and is wide enough to accommodate a wheelbarrow or cart.

Preparatory activities

To prevent the path from crumbling and becoming overgrown with grass over time, much attention is paid to the preparatory stages:

  1. A trench is dug along its entire length to a uniform depth of 15-20 cm. The uniformity of the depth is checked using a ruler.
  2. When marking the width of the trench, take into account that the path is reinforced on the sides with concrete slabs or stone for strength and durability.
  3. The trench is dug with a slight slope so that water does not stagnate during rain, but flows into a drainage trench, which is dug on the side where the slope leads.
  4. To prevent the walls from collapsing, concrete or wooden curbs are installed level inside the trench. To keep them horizontal, pins are driven into the trench inside, extending 5-7 cm from the ground. If the soil is loose, pins are also driven into the outside of the slabs.
  5. A mixture of crushed stone, cement, or sand is poured into the trench and compacted thoroughly. The backfill should be 5-10 cm high after compaction.
  6. The “pillow” is poured with water several times and compacted.
Attention!
A layer of sand is poured between the cushion and the top decorative layer.

Laying a path of bricks and tiles

Clinker bricks, along with paving slabs, are used as a material for paving paths. They are durable, water-repellent, long-lasting, heat-resistant, and resistant to adverse weather conditions. Step-by-step installation instructions:

  1. A thick layer of sand is placed on the “cushion”, which is compacted, moistened with water and compacted again.
  2. Using a ruler or a flat board, level the surface horizontally.
  3. They begin laying bricks around the perimeter of the path. They drive the bricks into the sand to half their depth using blows from a mallet (rubber hammer), which won't damage the surface.
  4. If the path isn't secured with concrete curbs on the sides, the bricks at the edges are filled with concrete mortar and, after removing the wooden formwork, secured with rebar. The space along the path is filled with crushed stone or gravel and compacted.
  5. To create a more durable surface, alternate the placement of the bricks, sometimes running lengthwise, sometimes across the path. Fill the joints with cement-based adhesive to prevent grass from growing into the cracks and add additional strength to the path. However, avoid staining the outer side of the bricks with cement, as this will detract from the overall appearance of the path.
  6. Sand is poured onto the laid path from above and swept into all the cracks between the bricks with a brush.
  7. To add brightness and attractiveness, the brick is coated with a deep penetration primer, followed by the application of a varnish used for coating stone in outdoor conditions.

Wooden paths

Wood is often used as a material for paths. If the path is laid using a stump-and-cut method, old felled trees are often used. This type of path is inexpensive, but requires time to build it properly. Laying decking is more expensive, but it looks more stylish in areas with pools, gazebos, and barbecue areas.

Dug-in wooden paths

Paving garden paths with wood cuts is an inexpensive but labor-intensive process. To create this unique and unusual paving, you'll need dry hardwood. Oak, birch, and coniferous trees are all suitable for making paths. The wood is cut into logs long enough to rise 10-15 cm above the surface when placed on a compacted "cushion." The surfaces are sanded with a sander to achieve a smooth finish. To more completely fill the path and ensure the pieces fit together, logs of varying diameters are used. Before installation, they are prepared for longer service life:

  1. Place the stumps halfway up in a container with antiseptic for 4 minutes. Apply a brush over the top. Allow the material to dry completely.
  2. The logs are dipped in a solution of "Kuzbass varnish." This protects the wooden surfaces buried in the ground from moisture and slows down the decay process. Its drawback is its instability to sunlight. Heated tar can protect the logs from above, due to the film it forms on the surface of the wood after cooling. This film is resistant to high temperatures and sunlight.
Attention!
The following steps are performed after the treated stumps have completely dried.

A small amount of sand is added to the side wall of the trench, and the first row of logs is installed, fitting them tightly in both height and size. The gaps between the stumps are filled with sand. Next, the next layer is installed. Here, logs of varying diameters are used for a tighter fit and to reduce gaps. The entire trench is filled with stumps, the logs are compacted, and the cracks are filled with sand.

DIY garden paths

Wooden walkways

To create this type of path, store-bought decking boards are used. They can be made of wood, thermally modified wood, or wood-polymer composite. This type of decking is resistant to UV rays, excess moisture, and temperature fluctuations. The boards are uniform in size, treated to withstand adverse conditions, and ready for installation. Joists are laid on a flat concrete surface, and the decking boards are secured to them with screws or special clips. The path, while not expected to last very long, will be quite expensive.

It's cheaper to use boards in tandem with pebbles or gravel. Place the following on the prepared "cushion":

  • sand, leveled;
  • boards, at a distance of one step from each other;
  • the spaces between the boards are filled with small, single-color or colored gravel;
  • The path is covered with crushed stone on both sides and lightly compacted.

Garden parquet

A new trend is installing garden parquet in recreation areas around pools, gazebos, and balconies. This material is expensive and rarely used for garden paths. It is made of dense wood and is resistant to excess moisture, sunlight, and frost. A plastic alternative is also available, which is less expensive but has a shorter lifespan. This type of flooring is installed on a bed of sand or gravel.

Stone paths

Paths made of natural stone and pebbles are becoming increasingly popular. They look unique and add a touch of originality. summer cottageThis method is not new; roads and sidewalks were paved with stone in ancient times. In the mid-20th century, stone paving was still common in rural areas. The process of creating such paving has been simplified and adapted to modern realities. Such paths look stylish when combined with various landscape design elements—fountains, sculptures, and stone-lined flowerbeds.

DIY garden paths

Pebble path

from pebbles

Paths made of sea and river pebbles look stylish and original in gardens and highlight the owners' taste. They are durable and outperform concrete, tiles, and asphalt. Plants growing between the stones are a major enemy of this type of paving, as they erode the cement. Pebbles are purchased at hardware stores or collected from ponds, quarries, and construction sites. DIY pebble paths at the dacha follow these steps:

  1. Geotextile is placed at the bottom of the trench.
  2. A mixture of gravel and sand is poured onto it, compacted, and moistened with water.
  3. Concrete curbs are installed along the edges of the trench and secured with a cement mixture.
  4. A solution of cement, water, and sand is mixed in a ratio of 1:3:3. The concrete is poured to the curb level and leveled using a board or straightedge.
  5. The pebbles are laid according to the planned pattern, sinking the stones into the mortar to half their height.
  6. The stone is leveled using a mallet and a flat board. The board is placed perpendicular to the path and lightly tapped with a rubber mallet.
  7. The path with stones is covered with cellophane and left for a day to dry.
  8. Prepare a mixture of cement, water, and sand in a ratio of 1:5:3. The mixture can be tinted if desired. Pour the mixture onto the path, ensuring that all voids are filled.
  9. The remains are removed with a brush or a foam sponge.
  10. The path is closed for another two weeks. Once completely dry, it is ready for full use.
Attention!
Similar to pebbles, paths are laid out from broken paving stones, flagstones, cobblestones and boulders.

Bulk paths made of crushed stone and gravel, edged with wood

Do path at the dacha You can use crushed stone and frame it with wooden stumps. This is a simpler version of the garden path method. The logs are prepared in a similar manner, but they are installed in a single row around the perimeter of the path. The inner surface of the trench is covered with geotextile or thick lutrasil, folding the edges of the material over the logs. Then, crushed stone or gravel is added in small portions, leveling the surface until the fill level is level with the ground. In this case, large natural stones can be used as a curb instead of stumps.

Concrete path

Concrete paths are an inexpensive type of pavement and are therefore widely used. To create a concrete path, a pit about 20 cm deep is dug. Then, wooden formwork or concrete curbs are installed along the sides of the path, leveling them. The bottom of the pit is filled with sand, moistened, and compacted. The dense layer is approximately 7 cm high. A layer of crushed stone is poured on top of the sand, and then a reinforcing mesh is laid on top of it, which increases the strength of the pavement. Then, concrete is mixed and poured, using the top of the formwork as a guide. The layer is leveled using a straight edge or a straight board. One way to strengthen the pavement is by ironing. This is done using commercially available topping mixtures or by sprinkling dry cement over the damp surface and rubbing it into the surface.

path of forms

Colorful clay figures imprinted into concrete add a unique and original touch to a path. A thick clay solution is applied to the leaf of a large plant, such as burdock. Allow it to dry completely, then remove the leaf. The clay imprint is painted and varnished. When pouring the top layer, the leaf imprint is pressed into the concrete. Plaster and concrete solutions can be used instead of clay to embed plant leaves.

DIY garden paths

When using forms To imitate stone, a mixture of cement and gravel is poured halfway up the formwork and leveled using installed markers. After the layer dries, a mold is placed on it, filled with the cement mixture, and left to dry completely, about 5 days later. Once the concrete is completely dry, the mold is removed from the concrete, placed next to it, and pouring continues. To speed up the process, it is recommended to purchase at least two molds. The completely laid path is then painted in suitable colors to imitate the natural tones of the stones.

DIY garden paths

Economy track options

Without a lot of money, but with some ingenuity, summer residents are arranging their plots with no less taste and originality using improvised means. An alternative to a beautiful, expensive paving slabs A cheerful, bright mosaic of bottle caps emerges, and paths made from concrete forms look just as good as natural stone after painting. Plastic panels can be used as temporary paths until the owners decide where the main path will be.

Paths made from plastic caps

path made of plastic caps

This DIY garden path making method is considered a budget-friendly option, as the materials are free. The key is perseverance and patience. Another advantage of this method is that the path is assembled in individual, planned sections, as the materials accumulate, and then assembled together. The lids are assembled using a hot awl and fishing line:

  • the awl is heated on a gas or electric stove;
  • each lid is pierced through and through on the side;
  • connect the lids together using fishing line, according to the intended pattern.

The individual sections, prepared over the winter, are connected together. Preparing the ground for the temporary path is quick. No trench or pit is required. Weeds are removed, the soil is treated with Roundup or another weed killer, geotextile is laid, and a mosaic of bottle caps is laid on top of it. The entire path is gently tapped with a mallet. To reduce soil buildup, a brick curb is installed.

DIY garden paths

Plastic panels for garden paths

The fastest way to lay out paths in a yard is to use prefabricated plastic slabs. They are equipped with fasteners, so they can be extended in both length and width. The fasteners provide rigidity and serve as legs. The slabs are non-slip and, thanks to their perforated design, do not accumulate water during rain. The slabs are made of frost-resistant plastic, making them ideal for use as mats in front of houses in winter.

By following these tips, a novice gardener can create paths and pathways around their property, using materials that will perfectly complement the landscape design of the property.

paths for a summer house
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