Grafting helps to improve the health and rejuvenation of fruit crops, adapt them to the microclimate and soil, increase fruiting, improve the variety, and enhance resistance to diseases and pests. The grafted part ensures photosynthesis and determines the appearance. It is recommended to graft plants at the beginning of sap flow, taking into account the region and weather conditions. One option for grafting is to use a drill.
The simplest methods of grafting
An electric drill produces neat, burr-free holes, reducing the risk of rot. Grafting methods:
You may be interested in:- Prepare the site for the future grafting of the scion on the tree trunk. Excess branches are carefully removed and the cuts are coated with varnish. Failure to do this will reduce the effectiveness of the grafting. Clean the bark of the desired area, removing dust and dirt. Some gardeners disinfect with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Select a drill bit that matches the size of the scion; it should be 2-3 mm smaller in diameter. Trim the end of the scion by 3-4 cm, and drill a hole to the same depth at an angle of 75-90°. To prevent drilling deeper than necessary, wrap several layers of electrical tape around the drill bit. Carefully drive the scion into the hole until it fits snugly. To prevent rot, coat the scion with garden varnish.
- To restore tree health, a different method is recommended. The trunk is cut down to the desired height, a drill bit is selected as described, and a stop is attached to it. The ends of the scion are trimmed back to a depth of 4-5 cm. The cut, as well as the tool used, can be sterilized with potassium permanganate. Several holes are drilled at once, the scions are driven in, and garden pitch is applied. Since the new shoots are vertical, the contact area is much larger, ensuring increased survival. This method of gardening requires minimal labor.

- When working with grape vines A similar method is used. The thickest vine on the bush is selected, small branches and the crown are removed. The vine is inspected. The site for the scion is chosen from the more elastic and thick side of the vine, as this is where the cambium functions and sap flow is accelerated. Since the scion will be inserted at an angle, it is prepared as follows: on one side, the shoot adjacent to the mother plant, is cleared 2 cm down to the wood, another 1 cm down to the cambium, and 1 cm down to the bark. On the other side, the area that will fit into the hole is cleared down to the wood. A branch or the upper part of the vine is cut 5 cm from the cut, and a hole is drilled 2-3 mm narrower in diameter than the thickness of the scion. Further steps are as in the above cases, including treatment with pitch.
You can graft not only the trunk but also the site of cut branches. In this case, a hole is made at the cut site. This ensures the tightest possible fit.
Pros and cons of using a drill
According to those who have already tried it, the scion takes root in 80% of cases. Drilling is best used for stump repair or replacing branches with large cuts. This method has proven effective in small private plots, but is considered impractical for larger plantings.
- It is necessary to select a drill according to the size of each cutting, and if there are many of them, the working time is significantly extended;
- You have to worry about the power supply, the wires get tangled in the grass and bushes, and safety precautions for working with electrical appliances are violated.
Replacing a power drill with a hand tool or screwdriver reduces the chances of making neat, burr-free holes. It's a good idea to soak the cleaned ends of the scion in Heteroauxin, a plant growth stimulant. This increases survival.
Some gardeners, before inserting the trimmed shoot into the prepared hole, take it in their mouth for a few seconds, "licking" it. Scientific research has proven the beneficial effect of human saliva on plant growth, as saliva contains auxin, another plant growth stimulant.
You may be interested in:The timing for drill grafting is the same as for the cleft grafting method. Sap flow should have already begun in the mother trunk (or vine), while the buds on the shoots being prepared for grafting should still be dormant. If grafting is done earlier, 73% of the new shoots will be rejected during sap flow. It is recommended to work with stone fruit trees from the last week of March to mid-April, and with pome fruit trees from early May to mid-June. Naturally, weather conditions should be taken into account.


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Vladimir
Thanks, I'll give it a try. I think this method creates a much stronger connection than others and doesn't require insulating tape. Just coat it with pitch and that's it.
Vasily
If your hands are sharpened correctly, you can even use a cleaver!
Valery
Can it be grafted onto bird cherry?