Geranium, or pelargonium, is a common houseplant that thrives outdoors in summer. In winter, the plant requires a dormant period, which the gardener should provide indoors.
The plant doesn't overwinter outdoors; pelargoniums can only tolerate light frosts; severe cold is fatal. Preserving geraniums over winter indoors is quite difficult; the temperature fluctuations outside after autumn often cause the plant to become ill and shed most of its foliage. The main growing challenges can be overcome if you properly prepare your apartment for winter.
Description of the plant
Geranium belongs to the genus Geraniaceae. In the wild, the plant grows in South Africa. The genus currently comprises over 250 species, and new varieties developed by breeders are added annually. Their flowering is quite different from the usual "ball"; the bushes form naturally, not stretching due to lack of light, but also the usual geraniums can be pruned, ensuring the formation of a beautiful bush.
Plants of this genus can be divided into two groups:
- flowering - valued for their lush flowering, which pleases the gardener almost all year round;
- Fragrant - this plant also blooms, but in comparison with the previous species, it is unnoticeable, it is valued for the aroma emanating from the leaves, they can smell like lemon, mint, spruce and even Coca-Cola.
The plant's root system is extensive. The stem is erect or prostrate in some species. The leaves are lobed and covered with fine hairs. The flowers form a raceme-shaped inflorescence, which can contain over 40 buds.
The plant blooms year-round, provided the right temperature, daylight hours, and regular application of mineral fertilizers are provided. After the inflorescence matures, a capsule-shaped fruit forms, containing small seeds.
Periods of growth and dormancy
The plant has a short dormant period, entering a dormant phase in December. The new vegetative cycle begins in late February – early March. This dormant period is characterized by slower growth and a lack of flowering. With sufficient daylight, the plant may flower, but it is recommended to remove the buds as the geranium needs to rest. Lack of rest will negatively impact summer flowering, resulting in less luxuriant blooms. The growth period begins in March and lasts until the end of September. During this period, the plant should be fed with a fertilizer containing moderate levels of nitrogen and phosphates.
You may be interested in:To create a beautiful crown and maximize fullness, pinching is recommended during the growing season. This is best done after flowering, so the plant will once again delight its owner with dense foliage and abundant blooms. Zonal pelargoniums are recommended to be pinched to promote branching. Ivy-leaved or trailing geraniums should be pruned at each branch after the seventh leaf has formed.
Caring for geraniums at home
Geranium is a sun-loving plant that thrives on an east- or south-facing windowsill. Its leaves are delicate, so provide shade from the hot midday sun; otherwise, the foliage will turn yellow and fall off.
If the bush is developing incorrectly, it can be corrected by extending the daylight hours. The results will be noticeable within the first month, as the shoots will become straighter and thicker. If the geranium is kept indoors during the winter, it needs to be kept cool – the optimal temperature is 12-16 degrees Celsius. The plant responds well to fresh air, so the room should be ventilated; radiators dry out the air, so it's best to invest in a humidifier.
Temperature and lighting in summer and winter
Plants need a break from summer blooming to re-decorate the front garden with their vibrant blooms next year. The optimal temperature for indoor growing in summer is 22-26 degrees Celsius (72-80 degrees Fahrenheit), while in winter it's recommended to lower it to 12-18 degrees Celsius (53-55 degrees Fahrenheit). Geranium pots should be protected from drafts at all times of year, as the plant has a fragile root system.
Geraniums are demanding in terms of day length and light. Without sunlight, the plant stretches and loses its decorative qualities, the stem partially sheds leaves and becomes bare. In summer, geraniums can be kept in the garden, either by placing the pot outside or even by transplanting the plant from its pot into the ground. Place it in a partially shaded area. The flower requires the soft rays of the morning sun; midday heat can be detrimental.
How often should I water my apartment?
Pelargoniums aren't moisture-loving plants; they don't tolerate overwatering, and excessive soil moisture is detrimental. At home, they should be watered after the soil has partially dried out; they tolerate temporary drought better than overwatering. In winter, water the plant once every 10-14 days, and in summer, every 2-5 days.
Choosing a substrate and fertilizer: how to fertilize correctly
When keeping a plant, you need to remember that it needs proper care at home and Annual repotting involves completely replacing the root ball. The plant can be potted in any nutrient-rich soil with added perlite and vermiculite. Add a sufficient layer of drainage to the bottom of the pot. The plant prefers spacious pots and grows quickly in them, but for vigorous flowering, the pot size should be appropriate for the root system. Planting in a large pot will result in the plant building up underground root mass, neglecting flowering.
It grows quickly if fertilized regularly from early March to late September. For profuse flowering, use a high-potassium fertilizer, applied twice a month at the recommended dosage. If the fertilizer is classified as a complex fertilizer, pay attention to its nitrogen content, as high doses will lead to rapid foliage growth and prevent flowering.
Trimming
Pruning is one of the most difficult steps in caring for any plant, but gardeners who want to grow a neat geranium bush and enjoy its flowering cannot do without this manipulation.
Growth rate depends on the variety and the quality of pruning. As the stems develop, they always stretch and become bare. In this case, the top of the stem is cut off and rerooted, and the remaining bare stem and root can be revived. The pot should be provided with full care and good lighting, so that the young buds of future branches will emerge from the exposed stump.
To prevent bare stems from forming, pruning is recommended every year after the end of the growing season. The plant is cut back as much as possible to awaken dormant buds. Since geraniums don't stop growing completely, they need to be pruned again after the daylight hours increase, in March.
Preparing for winter: winter storage
In the fall, prune the plant as much as possible, leaving no more than seven leaves on the stem. Remove any side shoots growing from the lateral axils, as they will suck all the nutrients the mother plant needs for a successful winter. To ensure abundant flowering, pelargoniums should be kept cool overwintering; they can be stored on a windowsill or in a basement.
The process of preparing for winter includes reducing watering, eliminating fertilizing with various fertilizers, pruning with the obligatory removal of flower stalks.
When storing in a basement, remember to trim each plant, remove it from the soil, and place it in an airtight container, which will need to be ventilated at least once every two weeks. The storage basement must be dry, and the temperature should not drop below 10 degrees Celsius (50 degrees Fahrenheit), otherwise the plant will die.
You may be interested in:Wintering places for pelargoniums
The following conditions are suitable for wintering:
- glazed balcony or loggia, provided that the temperature does not drop below 8-10 degrees;
- window sill when the room temperature is no more than 17 degrees;
- cellar or basement - plants in pots are placed in the brightest place; if natural light cannot be provided, the method is not used;
- Refrigerator - without soil and roots, leaving only the above-ground part in the form of a stem, the condition of the plant must be checked regularly.
To ensure successful winter survival, mature plants must enter dormancy in good health. At the end of August, plants planted outdoors should be inspected for pests.
Propagation and transplantation
There are two methods for propagating kalachi: cuttings and sowing seeds. The first method has one drawback: it's important to select the right seed. Cuttings affected by pests or diseases will not root. The difficulty with seed propagation lies in caring for the plantings. It's important not to overwater the young plants and to regularly ventilate the greenhouse.
Seeds: how to care for them
Kalachik propagates well from seeds, which can be collected from a flowering bush or purchased at a store. Store-bought seeds should be checked for expiration dates; if they were collected recently, the germination rate will be high.
The seeds are planted in loose, slightly moistened soil, previously disinfected with a potassium permanganate solution, and buried to a depth of 2 cm. The pot containing the fresh seeds is covered with glass or plastic film and kept at a temperature of 18-22 degrees Celsius. The glass is removed after germination. The seedlings are pinched after the fifth leaf has formed. Spray with a spray bottle, being careful not to touch the seedlings.
They are transplanted into a separate pot after the formation of large bushes with 2-4 pairs of true leaves.
Growing by cuttings
Growing a full-fledged plant from a cutting is quite simple. Use the remains of fall or spring pruning. It's best to choose cuttings with woody stems. There are several popular rooting methods:
- Water. Add an activated charcoal tablet to a small container of water and place the cutting in it. Place the container on a well-lit windowsill and wait for roots to appear. This process takes about a week in spring and over a month in fall. The main risk with this method is rot.
- Perlite or vermiculite. The cutting is rooted in moist perlite or vermiculite, positioned at a slight angle—this way, the young plant will expend less energy supporting itself. The plant is placed in a sunny spot or under a grow light.
- Peat. It's convenient to use a peat tablet. Soak it in water before use. After it's expanded to the size of a glass, place the cutting, cut at an angle, in the center. The advantage of this method is that it allows for subsequent transshipment instead of replanting. This method also has the advantage that the peat tablets are disinfected, so the risk of cutting death is minimal.
- Soil. The plant roots in soil, just like in a peat tablet, but the substrate must be prepared first. It can be baked in the oven or sprayed with potassium permanganate for disinfection.
Cuttings are transplanted into a permanent pot after noticeable growth and the formation of new leaves. It's best to wait until the roots have covered the entire root ball.
Landing
Repotting requires care due to the plant's delicate root system. The new pot should be two centimeters larger in diameter than the previous one. Avoid using a larger pot, as the plant will not bloom. Geraniums rooted from cuttings or overwintered plants are recommended to be planted in April, during the growth and development period.
Transfer
Before repotting, water the plant. This will make it easier to remove the soil ball from the pot. Repotting is done in the spring or fall, after flowering has finished. After transplanting, do not fertilize the plant for four months. The substrate contains all the nutrients necessary for growth and development.
Possible problems
When growing geraniums at home, gardeners face the following problems:
- the leaves are turning yellow;
- pests attack;
- the leaves are falling;
- the stem turns black or rots;
- spots appear on the leaves.
The appearance of the listed symptoms in any case indicates a pest attack or improper care.
Why is my indoor geranium dying?
The main reasons for the death of a houseplant:
- unregulated watering;
- excessive dryness of air;
- high room temperature;
- exposure to sunlight;
- damage to the root system during transplantation.
There are many possible causes, but to pinpoint the true one, you need to carefully consider the changes the plant has undergone. Often, the problem can be solved by changing the soil.
Diseases and pests: how to preserve a bun
Geraniums are rarely attacked by pests, so most often the plant dies when the owner fails to follow basic care. The death of older leaves located at the base of the stem is a natural process. The cause should be investigated if young shoots wilt or fall off, or rust forms on the underside.
- If the edges of the leaf turn yellow, you need to increase watering.
- Loss of turgor indicates excess moisture.
- Leaf fall - lack of sunlight.
Medicinal properties and benefits of the flower
The leaves of the zonal pelargonium release essential oils into the air and kill viruses and bacteria in the room. It is recommended to keep the plant in a child's room because it has a calming effect and improves sleep. The leaves are used for ear infections, rhinitis, and rheumatism. An infusion is made from them to treat gum and throat conditions.
According to popular belief, blooming red geraniums in an apartment signifies love and mutual understanding within the family. The plant normalizes the aura and makes the psycho-emotional environment more comfortable for living.
Conclusion
Pelargonium is a simple houseplant that even a novice gardener can handle. In summer, it can brighten a flowerbed or front garden – planting it outdoors will benefit it. You can achieve lush blooms by providing a cool wintering environment and careful pruning in the fall. Your geranium will be grateful for following these guidelines.
Geranium is not only a beautiful plant, but also a folk remedy for diseases.