When and how to prune geraniums for the winter at home so that they bloom and remain fluffy

Geraniums are a vibrant addition to any home's windowsill. This plant is popular among indoor plant enthusiasts for its low maintenance and continuous blooming throughout the growing season. Pelargoniums are easy to grow, but to ensure lush summer blooms, they require fall pruning. This pruning is performed according to specific guidelines and recommendations.

How to prune geraniums in autumn

Geraniums are grown not only indoors but also in garden plots. Depending on the variety, they have recumbent, climbing, or upright stems. The plant can be tall (up to 50 cm tall) or dwarf, with stems no longer than 20 cm. Different pruning methods are used for different varieties. The shaping process depends on the grower's preferences; when pruning, consider the desired plant shape.

Regardless of the variety, the bush requires constant shaping. It's very difficult to achieve a high-quality pruning in one go. The first pinching is done after the cutting is planted in the soil and has successfully rooted, when the roots have covered the entire soil, and the growing point is trimmed. This is necessary to stimulate the dormant buds located on the cutting.

Without human intervention, pelargoniums don't bush well, and within a year, the stems become significantly bare. Pruning ensures lush blooms, as flower stalks develop more readily on young shoots. Branches growing inward should be removed to maintain symmetry. Cuttings obtained through pruning can be used for propagation.

The purpose of autumn pruning

Autumn pruning is carried out after the end of the growing season. Geraniums go dormant in late September or early October. Flower stalks that form during this time are removed because the plant needs to rest. Pelargoniums are fed before wintering, and excess branches are removed. The goals of pruning are:

• profuse flowering in spring and summer;
• leaf nutrition optimization;
• restoration of normal air exchange;
• acceleration of metabolism;
• formation of a lush crown, new shoots and branches.

The ultimate goal is to improve the health and rejuvenation of the bush.

Time of the event

Pelargoniums prepare for winter on their own in the fall, so the gardener should help the plant by providing dormancy during the winter. To do this, lower the air temperature to 5-12 degrees Celsius, reduce watering to a minimum, and place the pelargonium in a sunny location. If the plant produces a flower stalk in the fall or winter, remove it to enjoy the lush flower heads rising above the mass of green leaves in the spring.

Pruning pelargoniums in the fall involves removing all shoots that have grown and stretched over the summer. Furthermore, the plant should rest from active flowering during the summer, avoiding wasting energy on additional feeding of flower stalks and excess stems.

Indoor geraniums should be pruned immediately after flowering, gradually preparing the bush for the dormant period. Since different varieties finish their growing season at different times, it's impossible to pinpoint precise dates. Zonal geraniums can bloom year-round indoors, but this shouldn't be allowed to happen. Flower stalks are removed at the end of September, with pruning to be done in October. The period from November to March is considered dormant, but despite this, the plant continues to grow and sends out new shoots, which often need to be pruned in the spring because they stretch due to lack of sunlight.

Features for different types of pelargonium

Pruning principles vary depending on the variety and the grower's preferences. The basic principles are:

1. The bush is carefully examined and withered, weakened, yellow leaves and wilted buds are removed by hand.
2. Gradually remove the lateral shoots, leaving 1-2 strong ones.
3. The lower leaves are removed from the remaining stem.
4. If the stem is too long, it is shortened to 10 cm in height.
5. Crooked lateral shoots must be removed.
6. Ash or crushed activated carbon is applied to the cut sites to prevent fungal infection and rot.

The above rules apply to zonal varieties, which are distinguished by their upright stems. Regal and ivy-leaved geraniums require a different approach.

Basic recommendations depending on the species:

1. Stellar is a houseplant, a hybrid, not suitable for outdoor planting. Although this dwarf variety requires annual pruning, which is done in the fall, with shoots shortened by 50%. New branches develop slowly in winter, and in the spring, foliage increases and buds form.
2. Tulip is a tulip-shaped pelargonium. It received this name because its inflorescences, even when fully open, resemble small, unopened tulips. Without pruning, these varieties lose their characteristics, so shaping is essential. The material obtained through pruning can be rooted in the spring, but the varietal characteristics of the mother plant are not guaranteed. Tulip-shaped varieties stretch significantly over the summer, and first-year plants have difficulty forming lateral shoots, so formative pruning is performed even in summer.
3. Unique – a unique variety distinguished by its fragrance. The bush type resembles zonal pelargoniums, and the blooms resemble royal pelargoniums. This is the only indoor pelargonium that requires only rejuvenation and nurturing; it develops into a lush bush on its own. This variety is old but rare, making it difficult to find in home collections.
4. Zonal is the most extensive species, with over 75,000 varieties. Zonal pelargonium, the very same "grandmother's" geranium often grown in homes and front gardens, is the most widely distributed. These varieties are easy to maintain, blooming readily and profusely from spring to fall, and require shaping after the growing season.
5. Angel is a houseplant that combines the varietal characteristics of regal and trailing varieties. When pruning, the climbing shoots are shortened by a third. Flowering is possible only on young branches.
6. Coloured Foliage – variegated foliage. These varieties are distinguished by variegated foliage. This group is not large, but includes both zonal and ivy-leaved species with variegation evident in the foliage. This variety is sensitive to light conditions and requires formative pruning. This is done in the fall, removing damaged leaves and shoots that lack variegation.
7. Cactus – cactus-like. Miniature varieties that form on their own with sufficient light. If light levels are low, shoots stretch, the stem becomes bare, and a lack of flowering can also indicate insufficient sun. When pruning, pinch off the top and remove the lower leaves.
8. Regal – a royal pelargonium. This species includes the most demanding varieties, which do not form bushes or bloom without shaping. For profuse flowering, winter temperatures should be reduced to 15 degrees Celsius; lower temperatures are detrimental to the variety. Pruning should only be done in the fall, as the plant begins to form buds during the winter. Shaping should be done two weeks before the expected temperature drop, as the cuts need to tighten. Pruning in the spring is not recommended, as it will interfere with flowering.
9. Scented-leaved is a scented geranium. The plant's leaves smell of lemon, pine, mint, Coca-Cola, chewing gum, and Kenzo scented water. It doesn't form naturally, so in the fall, remove the lower leaves and some of the central ones, trim off the elongated top, and root it. The plants are flowering, but the buds are not ornamental.

Care for each variety is not significantly different, but regal, tulip, and cactus varieties are more demanding than zonal varieties. Regardless of the variety, pruning is the key to shaping and lush flowering.

Work scheme

Work to ensure plant formation must be carried out in compliance with simple rules:

1. It's best to use a utility knife or a regular table knife for this work. Pruning shears or scissors will pinch the plant stems and damage healthy parts.
2. The knife needs to be sharpened or the blade replaced. It's essential to treat it with an antiseptic (alcohol, chlorhexidine, or peroxide).
3. It is better to carry out the work wearing sterile gloves to prevent bacteria from the gardener’s hands from getting onto the fresh cut.
4. The cuts are made at a slight angle, about 5 mm away from the dormant bud.
5. The fresh cut is sprinkled with activated charcoal. Some gardeners recommend using brilliant green, but this is not recommended. The solution contains alcohol, which is harmful to the plant.
6. The pot with the plant is placed in a lighted place, watering is reduced and any fertilizing is excluded until February.

When preparing geraniums for winter, first shorten the side shoots to half their original size, then adjust the height of the bush by trimming the central portion. The shoots of ivy-leaved geraniums and angel pelargoniums often stretch significantly over the summer, so they are shortened to a length of 15-20 cm. Pruning is essential if the shoot has more than seven leaves. Angel geraniums and climbing varieties bloom in late summer, so they can be trained in both fall and spring.

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Peculiarities of caring for geraniums after pruning

After pruning and shaping, the bush is put into winter storage. Reduce watering, lower the temperature, and ensure adequate light. The pruned stems are used to propagate the existing variety. The cuttings are planted in pots or in open ground. They develop quickly and are sure to bloom in the summer.

A table containing information on preparing for winter and restoring the plant in the spring will help simplify care after the end of the growing season.

The listed rules for handling geraniums ensure successful winteringThe plant prefers a cool winter, but does not tolerate drafts, so it should be removed from the windowsill when airing the room.

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Crown formation

Crown formation should begin immediately after planting a new cutting in the ground. To achieve this, pinch the tree in the spring and fully prune it in the fall.

To form a dense bush, you need to follow these rules:

1. The work is carried out using pre-treated tools.
2. It is essential to prune shoots that grow inward into the bush to prevent it from becoming too dense.
3. If the bush stretches out and the distance between the leaf petioles exceeds 5 cm, pruning will not help; you need to adjust the light regime.
4. All damaged stems and leaves are cut off.

It takes several months for a lush crown to develop, so don't expect the bush to be lush and bloom profusely after the first pruning. The key is to perform the procedure regularly, following the same algorithm: pinching in the spring and pruning in the fall.

Step-by-step instructions for spring procedures

Geraniums are light-sensitive plants, so a lack of light causes shoots to stretch, foliage to wither, and the plant itself to become upwardly mobile. In summer, the plant is best planted outdoors, but to smoothly prepare the plant for this transition after winter, pots are placed on a balcony or glazed loggia in the spring.

Spring care begins with restoring normal, abundant watering, fertilizing, and pinching. Although the plant thrives in direct sunlight, it needs to be acclimated gradually. In early spring, the geranium bush should be shaded at midday; otherwise, red streaks will appear on the leaves. These are harmless, but indicate excessive direct sunlight.

Post-work care: table

A pruned plant requires careful maintenance. Optimal conditions for foliage restoration, good growth, and spring flowering are presented in the table.

Following simple care rules will guarantee abundant summer flowering that lasts until the fall.

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Mistakes when pruning geraniums at home

Pruning geraniums for the winter is fairly simple, and the process is completely painless for a healthy plant if the grower follows the pruning timing and technique. Failure to follow these basic rules can have consequences for the plant:

1. Failure to observe the recommended timing. Pruning geraniums in late winter is not recommended – it stresses the plant, resulting in no or reduced flowering the following season.
2. Pruning too far from the leaf node will cause the top part to dry out and die. Because of this the entire plant may die.
3. Extensive pruning. Leaf loss exceeding 60% of the original volume is detrimental to geraniums.
4. This manipulation is performed frequently and interferes with the normal formation of bud rudiments.
5. Rejuvenating an old bush in the fall. Fall pruning only benefits healthy plants; wilted, old geraniums likely won't survive the treatment. Rejuvenating the bush should be done after increasing daylight hours.

Any gardener can create a well-groomed, lush, and healthy flowering bush. Caring for the bush is very simple. To do this, simply prune out any elongated shoots promptly and rejuvenate the plant regularly. Like any flowering plant, pelargonium requires regular fertilization with potassium-containing fertilizers during the growing season.