How to care for tomatoes in a greenhouse from planting to harvesting

Proper tomato care should include timely and adequate watering, constant soil loosening, and fertilizing with minerals and organic matter. If necessary, tie up the bushes, hill them, remove excess plants from the beds, and treat the plants against harmful insects and various diseases. But above all, you need to properly choose tomatoes for a greenhouse.

Proper watering of the soil

To properly care for tomatoes in a greenhouse from planting to harvest (video), it's essential to properly moisten the soil where they grow. These plants dislike excess moisture in the garden bed, but they can also struggle with drought, which affects the taste of the fruit. It's best to simply monitor the soil; if it's already dry, water the tomatoes moderately. In some cases, watering these plants no more than twice a week is sufficient. During rainfall, watering can be done slightly less frequently. When tomatoes are exposed to drought, young buds begin to fall off, and if they do produce fruit, they are very small, which is unusual for the variety.

Proper introduction of complementary feeding

When caring for tomatoes in a greenhouse from planting to harvest (photo), fertilizing the plants is crucial, as this will determine the quantity and quality of the future harvest. Ideally, fertilize at least three times throughout the season, although experienced gardeners recommend fertilizing the soil at least every two or three weeks. Various additives can be used as fertilizer; for example, a solution of fifteen grams of ammonium nitrate, thirty grams of potassium chloride, and fifty grams of superphosphate is ideal. Place the mixture in a bucket filled with water and stir.

This fertilizer contains slightly more potassium and phosphorus than nitrogen, allowing foliage to develop normally, while fruit will thrive thanks to the potassium and phosphorus. Magnesium and boron should also be regularly added to the soil, with boron used during the flowering period to help prevent flowers from falling off the plant. To apply this fertilizer, tomatoes in a greenhouse, you need to take about ten grams of boric acid powder, dilute it in a bucket of water, and then spray the foliage of the tomatoes with the resulting solution.

Tying up bushes

Staking is a crucial step in greenhouse tomato care, from planting to harvest. Pinching is performed immediately after staking the vines. Since tomatoes are grown indoors, staking is done immediately after the plants have sufficiently established roots and are actively growing. Stake stakes are driven at least forty centimeters into the soil to withstand the pressure exerted by the vine during active fruiting, with each stake spaced ten centimeters from the stem. Each stake can be one to one and a half meters high; for taller vines, it's best to increase the stakes from the start.

Hilling is also done around the shrubs. In this case, the procedure only needs to be done a couple of times during the season, as wind and rain don't affect the holes created in the greenhouse. Excess weeds must be constantly removed from the beds, as they interfere with normal plant development and can also spread harmful insects and various diseases.

Rules for shaping a tomato bush

When caring for tomatoes in a greenhouse from planting to harvest, it's crucial to prune the side shoots in a timely manner. In fact, side shoots don't actually need to be removed, as they don't harm the plants themselves. However, if too many extra branches sprout from the trunks, the plant's fertility will be significantly reduced. However, not all bushes require a proper bush formation, as some already have only a single trunk and very neat branches. It's worth noting that small bushes with small fruits must be formed, meaning the plant must be pruned. In this case, no more than two trunks can be left for tomatoes in northern regions, and no more than four trunks for plants growing in the southern part of our country. Don't forget the following: How to water tomatoes after planting them in a greenhouse.

Shaping a bush is not at all difficult. If only one stem needs to be left, the gardener simply removes all shoots that form on that stem. It's crucial that they don't grow longer than four centimeters, otherwise, the removal will be pointless. It's also essential to completely remove the lowest shoots; if they aren't removed, the tomato plant may completely shed its first ovaries or flowers, which will lead to the complete destruction of the future harvest.

When a bush forms from two stems, it's enough to leave just one shoot emerging from the side of the plant. It usually appears not below, but right next to, the first cluster of shoots on the bush. Don't pull out or cut each side shoot at the root, as this can lead to the formation of new shoots. It's best to simply break off the side shoot by hand, leaving about one centimeter of the shoot. When the shoots have just begun to grow, simply trim the tips with a sharp blade to prevent them from continuing to grow. Side shoot removal should be carried out regularly, as new shoots can begin to grow throughout the bush's growth period.