Cabbage picking: timing and methods

Cabbage is a heat-loving plant that is primarily grown in gardens as seedlings. Breeders recommend transplanting cabbage after germination, and there are several ways to do this. You can transplant the sprouts into separate containers, peat cups, or under film.

Do I need to transplant cabbage?

Those sowing cabbage seeds for the first year always wonder: how necessary is pricking out for this vegetable crop? Will it harm the plant? Experienced gardeners and seed producers agree: pricking out won't harm cabbage. Moreover, it will ensure a bountiful harvest in the fall.

The purpose of this stage in preparing seedlings for life outdoors is clear: to strengthen the root system and thereby strengthen the sprouts. When the stem and first leaves poke through the soil indoors, the problem of too-rapid growth arises. The elongated stem becomes thinner, and once in the garden, as the greenery grows in size, it can simply break. Or, due to its weakness, it can contract blackleg disease.

Moreover, repotting a plant slows the growth of the above-ground portion of the shoot. Subsequently, short, sturdy seedlings in open ground will take root more quickly than tall, spreading specimens with thin roots.

Another important aspect of transplanting is that when planting a large number of crops in a single container, it prevents the death of stems that are overshadowed by neighboring, stronger, taller, and leafier plants. Transplanting can be avoided if the seeds were initially planted in separate containers or, under certain temperature and light conditions, in open ground at a sparse distance.

Thus, the advantages of transplantation are the following factors:

• due to the growth of roots, the feeding area of ​​the sprouts increases;
• soil renewal provides an influx of useful elements for plant growth;
• excess crowding of seedlings disappears, each individual specimen receives more sunlight;
• Diseased and underdeveloped stems are removed in advance.

Despite these positive aspects, transplanting is a difficult and stressful process for the plant itself. Not every sprout survives, and all seedlings rapidly weaken for a period of time. Those who avoid transplanting cabbage seedlings are guided by the following reasons:

• When transplanting, roots are damaged in any case, and some may not recover. An initially healthy and strong plant withers and dies;
• the development of sprouts slows down significantly, which, under tight timeframes, can affect the yield;
• The main root stops growing, and all the plant's energy is devoted to creating lateral roots. Overall, it absorbs significantly less moisture and nutrients from the soil;
• Sometimes transplanting has virtually no effect on results, especially in the southern regions of the country. And transplanting takes a considerable amount of time.

Indeed, planting seedlings directly into the ground and obtaining an excellent harvest without replanting is possible if cultivation takes place in areas with a hot climate.

Methods of diving

Cabbage should be pruned when the sprouts are in a clearly defined state. Pinching should only be done on healthy plants with developed cotyledon leaves. Seedlings with one or two true leaves are already capable of handling root intervention. The approach can vary: using a common container, separate containers, peat pots, or plastic wrap.

Transplantation into a common container

This method works well with both new boxes from the store and containers that have seen multiple seedling plantings. In the latter case, the container should be treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate before use.

Before removing the seedlings, fill the new box with soil, leaving two to three centimeters of space at the top. You can buy potting soil at the store, but it's best to dilute it with the same soil the plant will be growing in in the garden. You can mix it with ash, sand, or peat. Before use, the soil should be baked at a high temperature.

When replanting, it's important to keep the roots in the soil. Therefore, when transferring them from one container to another, avoid shaking them. It's best to scoop them out with a spoon: this way, the moist soil ball will transfer to the new location with minimal loss. It's important to prepare the new plants in advance: prepare holes in the soil surface for the sprouts. The plant is buried deep in these holes, up to the cotyledons. After transplanting, compact the soil around the seedling.

Separate containers

Gardeners typically choose plastic cups or dairy bags for individual containers. The only requirement is that they should be at least 5 cm in diameter.

Simply cut a flat hole in the bottom of such a container with scissors to allow excess water to drain into the common tray. If there is an overabundance of seedlings, a couple of seedlings can be planted in a single bag. When transplanting to open ground, the weaker ones are discarded.

The downside of using synthetic materials is that the roots of the seedlings grow through the drainage holes. Transferring them to the garden bed without damaging the root system is very difficult. In this case, carefully cut the cup or bag.

Peat cups

The natural nature of the cups makes gardening easier and doesn't damage the roots of the plant. The stem is transferred to the open ground along with the container. The cup not only decomposes completely in the soil but also fertilizes it: peat is an organic fertilizer.

For cabbage, the diameter of such a container should be 5 to 6 cm. The rules for filling with soil are the same as for larger containers. A couple of centimeters of the top edge of the cup should be left free to prevent moisture from spilling over the top. After placing the seedling in the hole, compact the soil around it. The soil in both the old and new containers should be thoroughly watered.

Regardless of the location, the seedlings are planted deep down to the cotyledon leaves. When planted in peat pots in garden beds, the sprouts show no growth stagnation.

Transplantation under film

This method requires time and patience from the gardener. The result is significant space savings for growing seedlings. Traditional seeding requires at least four times the space required to accommodate the boxes or cups.

There are two options for using film for picking cabbage: “film + peat” and “film + paper”.

Film + peat

Cut thick plastic film into 60 x 20 cm rectangles. Place a small amount of peat moss in the top corner and place the seedling on it. The cotyledons should be above the film level. Cover the top of the seedling with the same amount of soil. Fold the bottom of the film under, then roll it around the stem into a roll.

We secure the edge with tape or adhesive tape. You can write down any necessary information on the adhesive tape, such as transplanting time, variety, etc. The seedlings are placed on a common tray. Because the seedlings are so closely spaced, they require additional lighting.

When caring for seedlings using this method, ensure the soil is always moist, but not excessively soggy. When the fourth leaf appears, add 70-100% soil to each roll.

Film + paper

For this method, you'll need not only plastic wrap but also toilet paper. This growing method is shorter than the first. After the second or third leaf appears, the seedlings should be transplanted into another container or into open ground.

Line 10-centimeter plastic strips with toilet paper and lightly moisten with water from a spray bottle. Place cabbage seeds 3 cm apart, one centimeter from the top of the film.

Cover the top with another layer of toilet paper. Wrap it in plastic so that watering can be done from above.

We roll the paper into a roll and place it in a milk carton. In warm, humid conditions, germination occurs faster than with traditional sowing. However, the paper does not contain nutrients, and they must be added externally. During the time it takes for two or three leaves to emerge, two applications of humic acid are necessary.

Picking times

Before observing the transplanting schedule, it's important to clearly understand when to begin the initial sowing of the crop. Early cabbage varieties take a month to mature, and only then can they be planted in the garden. This means sowing the seeds in late April. Late-ripening cabbage takes four months to grow, meaning it should be sown in late January or early February.

Early and mid-season white cabbage should be pricked out seven to eight days after the first shoots emerge. After two weeks, pricking out will have no effect. Cauliflower, kohlrabi, and broccoli should be pricked out nine to ten days after sprouting, and after 17 to 19 days, no more pricking out should be done.

Pickling cauliflower

Cauliflower is a more delicate plant than cabbage. Even at the germination stage, it requires more sunlight and more frequent watering. The soil for this crop is also different – ​​the pH should be no higher than 6.

It's no surprise that in central Russia, this crop is only planted as seedlings. In these areas, seeds are sown in mid-March, while in the southern regions, they are sown between February 10th and 20th. To transplant, wait until the first two leaves appear. As soon as the next pair of leaves appears, it's time to transplant.

It's recommended to transplant seedlings into individual containers: plastic cups, cut-off polyethylene bags, or peat pots. Once the plants have recovered from transplantation, you can begin hardening them off. Creating greenhouse-like conditions—high temperatures, oversaturated soil, and maximum light—can ultimately lead to loss of the seedlings. Tall, spreading seedlings will likely not thrive outdoors.

Planting cabbage in open ground occurs approximately one month after germination.

Conclusion

The quality of the harvest can be assessed already during the seedling cultivation stage. If the stems are strong and short, the leaves are small, and the root system is well-branched after transplanting, the resulting heads or inflorescences will likely delight the growers with their size, juiciness, and flavor. The key to achieving this is following all vegetable growing recommendations and choosing your own transplanting method.