Genus Vanda (Vanda, sevenOrchidaceae includes more than 40 species. The color palette is varied, with blue, purple, and pink most commonly predominating. The coloring can be variegated, with a scattering of fine veins, or uniform. The scent is fragrant, but not all varieties have it. The flowers are large and intensely bright, which is noticeable during the full flowering period. There are no growth or dormant periods, and the abundance of blooms depends on the growing conditions. The flowering period lasts for about three months. It has alternate, richly green leaves and a long peduncle, which can bear up to 15 buds.
Description and varieties
The Vanda orchid is an epiphyte with a unique, robust root system protected by a keratinized layer of cells to protect the plant from drying out and the damaging effects of the sun. This structure also allows it to obtain moisture from the atmosphere.
Popular varieties among experienced gardeners:
- Vanda coerulea – flowers are bluish-blue, covered with a mosaic of veins of a rich dark shade.

Blue Vanda The flowers are large, pleasantly scented, and borne on a single stem with about 10-12 flowers. The lip is poorly developed, smaller in diameter, and darker in color.
- Vanda tricolor – larger leaves, leathery, tall stem, up to 1.5 m in length.

Vanda tricolor The flowers are small, with no more than ten on a stem, and are shaped like a star. The petals are white-cream, covered with burgundy spots, and wavy at the edges. The lip is divided into three parts, corresponding in diameter to the petal, shaped like a guitar, and is a deep crimson. Promoting the plant to bloom is easy; simply reduce watering for a while.
- Vanda Sanderiana – large leaves and flowers.

Wanda Sandera The petals are a soft pink with a white border. The lip is the same size as a blue Vanda, with a yellow-pink hue.
- Vanda Rothschildii is a hybrid of Vanda blue orchid and Sander.

Wanda Rothschild During flowering, the buds are small but numerous, up to 20 in a cluster, blue in color.
- Vanda valkovataya has a long, climbing stem. The flowers are medium-sized, up to 10 cm, and have slightly wavy edges.

Wanda Valkovataya The shape is oval or diamond-shaped. The petals are yellow with burgundy dots on the surface. The lip is divided in half, bright purple, and elongated into a wedge. The roots are numerous and pendulous.
Caring for the Vanda orchid at home
The Vanda flower is a vine, and in its native habitat, it twines around tree crowns and requires no soil. Therefore, it is recommended to grow it hanging in a basket or planter. Another more modern option is a Vanda orchid in a vase. The vase should be tapered at the top but wide at the bottom. Narrow and tall vases are unsuitable. Be sure to place hydrogel balls or expanded clay on the bottom to ensure adequate root nutrition. The Vanda shouldn't be completely suspended in this arrangement; it's best to plant it so that the flower stalk extends beyond the top of the vase. Growing the orchid in a glass vase will create a sophisticated look.
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You can also use a Vanda orchid in a small-diameter plastic pot with holes in the sides. Carefully spread the roots and secure them with a thin wooden rod or splinter. Fill the space between the roots with a substrate: large pieces of pine bark and moss in a 2:1 ratio, plus a little charcoal (ready-mixed charcoal is available at pet stores). The pot lasts about six months, then needs to be replaced.
This plant has Far Eastern roots and is accustomed to the tropics, so it's very demanding and won't tolerate careless treatment. So if you're a beginner, be sure to read our instructions on how to care for this capricious, delicate Vanda at home.
Temperature and humidity
The Vanda orchid requires care from day one. Before purchasing a seedling, consider the growing conditions. The room temperature should be appropriate for a hot climate, ideally between 20 and 30ºC, with daytime temperatures reaching 25ºC and evening temperatures ranging from 14 to 17ºC, depending on the season. A slight daily temperature fluctuation of 8-10ºC is acceptable to stimulate flowering.
The ideal location is a south-facing window with consistent sunlight for more than 12 hours a day (it needs to be shaded at midday) and good ventilation. In winter and during rain, it requires additional lighting with fluorescent lamps.
It's important to strictly maintain room humidity levels between 70-80%; excessive dryness or moisture is detrimental. To maintain this level, mist the Vanda orchid's root system with warm, pre-infused water. Do this in the morning, avoiding excess water dripping onto the roots. In winter, you can place water fountains or other devices nearby to automatically regulate humidity.
Watering and replanting
Watering should also be done daily in the morning in spring and summer, and every 2-3 days in winter. The method depends on the growing method. The substrate should be soaked in warm water for about 20 minutes, allowing it to dry between waterings. If the container is a glass vase, use the flood method: warm water should be poured around the roots (carefully avoiding the leaf axils) and left for 15-20 minutes. If the roots turn green, drain the water. Wipe off any residue on the walls with a damp cloth or running water, then wipe dry. Watering using the flood method should be done every three months, adding lemon juice.
The third option is a warm shower. After watering and drying, to remove excess water, carefully wipe the leaves with a natural cloth.
There is no need for a transplant unless the following criteria are met:
- there is little space for the roots and no growth rate is observed;
- poorly chosen substrate, constant humidity;
- presence of signs of rot.
If you bought your Vanda orchid in a store and need to change its container, you should wait a bit. The best time for planting and care is early spring. Before repotting, lightly moisten the roots; this will loosen the substrate more easily and make the roots softer.
Fertilization and propagation
Caring for and growing indoors involves many nuances. During the vegetative growth period, after flowering, you can fertilize once a month. Special fertilizers containing monopotassium phosphate are suitable for this purpose. Dilute with water at a higher concentration than indicated on the package and add when spraying or watering. But be careful not to overdo it.
When the petals begin to dry out, trim the flower stalk. Reduce watering and move the plant outdoors; this will help it recover more quickly. Then you'll be able to enjoy Vanda's best blooms again, in all their glory.
Very rarely, a lateral shoot (pup) may appear, and then your specimen can be propagated. It can be separated when it grows more than five centimeters, and the cut treated. This miniature copy should be placed in a greenhouse; after it takes root and grows, gradually acclimate it to indoor conditions. Transfer carry out in the same way as an adult plant.
A more common method is to cut off the top of the stem with the aerial roots and treat the cut at the bottom. Remove the lower leaves from the top and let it dry. The next day, place it in a substrate of bark and sphagnum moss, wrapping it in plastic wrap to create a greenhouse effect.
Root growth and disease control
If plant care isn't adequate, Vanda orchids may lose some of their roots. To grow new ones, remove the orchid and soak it in a growth enhancer solution, separating the damaged roots first. Next, transfer it to a previously prepared transparent pot filled with expanded clay and cover the top with moss. Store in a warm, well-ventilated area. Mist the edges; do not water. Results will be visible in about a month.
To protect the plant from disease, inspect it several times a day for pests and diseases.
The appearance of brown spots at the base of a leaf indicates a fungal infection (fusarium wilt). Treatment should be carried out with a Fundazole solution, separated from neighboring plants. The cause is excess moisture and heat, as well as the failure to promptly remove dead roots and leaves. It can be transmitted through water or airborne droplets.
Excess moisture also causes plant rot, causing the leaves to become wilted and wrinkled, and spots may appear on them. An emergency repotting is the solution:
- all affected areas must be removed;
- Treat the entire plant with a fungicide.
Rinse and disinfect the container, then store it in a dark place until signs of growth appear. Replace the substrate, if used.
And with a lack of water, heat or exposure to direct sunlight, it occurs yellowing of leaves, and the flowers are falling off. The appearance of cracks on the leaves indicates overfertilization, too much nitrogen in the soil, mechanical damage, or chilling immediately after watering. Ring spots indicate a viral infection; in this case, the plant should be isolated from others and treated with a fungicide. A prolonged absence of flowering is not a sign of disease. To stimulate blooming, try adjusting the temperature and adding more light.
You may be interested in:"We are responsible for those we tame," to quote the famous saying, we want to conclude by saying that all plants require careful care and attention. Vanda is no exception. To ensure she continues to delight you with her divine appearance, please show a modicum of patience, and your hard work will not be in vain. The Vanda orchid in glass looks stunningly beautiful.






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