How and when to plant apple trees in the Urals: instructions for beginners

Despite the cold climate, a number of apple trees in the Urals thrive and bear fruit. Some frost-hardy varieties can withstand the region's harsh winters. To choose the right seedling and plant an apple tree in the Urals in the fall, it's important to follow proper growing practices. Adhering to optimal planting times, caring for the trees on favorable days, and implementing timely protective measures are the foundation for the successful development of a fruit tree.

Selecting a variety

The region's cold climate imposes certain restrictions on the selection of apple tree varieties. In the Urals, only winter-hardy varieties are planted, capable of producing fruit successfully despite the long winters and short summers. Descriptions of frost-resistant apple trees will help you choose trees for cultivation in risky farming areas.

Antonovka

A winter-hardy apple tree, bred by Ural breeders for cultivation in cold climates. Its crown is pyramidal, and the fruits weigh 100-200 g. The apples' skin is yellow with a slight greenish tint, and the flesh is juicy and tart. However, this doesn't diminish the variety's popularity among gardeners. The fruits begin to ripen in September, and technical maturity, when the harvest can be harvested for storage, occurs in October. The apples retain their quality for no more than three months.

White filling

Widely known among Russian gardeners, the tree grows up to 5 meters in height, which is considered average. The broadly pyramidal crown of a young plant becomes rounded as it ages. The even-sided, white-green fruits are distinguished by a slight blush on the south-facing side. The flesh is coarse-grained and loose. As the tree matures, the apples gradually become smaller.

A young plant produces fruit weighing 130-140 g, while an older plant produces 60 g. The harvest is collected in late summer. Due to uneven ripening, harvesting is done selectively in several stages. Advantages include high yield, frost resistance, and early maturity.

Disadvantages of the variety:

• poor shelf life;
• poor transportability;
• susceptibility to decay;
• extended collection periods.

Melba

A mid-season variety developed by Canadian breeders in the late 19th century. The trees grow to a medium size, with a spreading, wide-angled crown that is slightly raised. The fruits are medium in size, but some specimens can reach 200 g. The apples are round or slightly conical. The skin is firm but not tough, covered with a waxy coating.

The apples are light green, turning whitish-yellow when ripe. Harvesting begins in late summer, but during cold weather, harvesting can last until late September. The positive aspects include early maturity and abundant fruiting. The disadvantages include susceptibility to scab, poor self-pollination, and limited winter hardiness.

Silver Hoof

A result of the work of domestic breeders, developed specifically for cultivation in cold climates. It is ideal for growing in the Urals. "Silver Hoof" is self-sterile, requiring pollination with other varieties. The trees grow slightly below average in size with a lush, rounded crown. Fruit rarely exceed 110 g in weight, averaging no more than 80 g. The apples have a symmetrical, rounded shape. The base color is a rich cream shade, punctuated by a bright blush. The harvest begins around the second half of August. The fruits retain their quality for 1.5 months from storage.

"Spartacus"

A zoned apple variety for cultivation in the Middle Urals. A mature tree grows up to 6 m. The fruit is self-pollinating, but breeders recommend cross-pollination to increase fruit set. The average fruit weight is 160 g, with a maximum of 200 g. The shape is round-conical with slight ribbing on the top. The skin is light green with a diffuse blush. There is a waxy coating over the entire surface. The fruit ripens unevenly; harvesting begins in early September and ends 15-20 days later. The apples can be stored for two months after picking. During this time, the fruit will retain its flavor, and the flesh will retain its firm texture.

"On-screen"

Thanks to its characteristics—high winter hardiness and vibrant fruit flavor—the apple tree is grown in the Urals and other regions of Russia. Growth ceases at a height of 3 m, and the crown is spreading, slightly dense, and rounded. Skeletal branches are arranged compactly. This fruit tree boasts high productivity and stable fruiting. A mature tree can yield up to 120 kg of fruit. The fruits grow to a medium size, weighing up to 80 g. The skin is greenish-yellow with a bright blush. The flesh is dense, fine-grained, with a subtle aroma and a sweet and sour taste. The harvest begins in early September. With proper storage, the fruit will retain its quality for five months.

Growing technology

To ensure a gardener in the Urals can enjoy delicious and healthy apples grown on their plot, they should consider the region's climate. In this area, the uneven topography and mountains create a barrier dividing the area into two distinct zones. The western side has a milder climate with abundant rainfall. The eastern side is drier and harsher. For this reason, not all fruit varieties can thrive or produce fruit in this region.

The nuances of landing

The key to high yields in the Ural climate is the careful selection of apple varieties. A gardener must determine which variety will easily withstand transplanting and winter frosts. Once the arrangements are made with the representative, the optimal planting time is determined. The location of the plant, as well as the cultivation techniques used, influence fruiting and the plant's resistance to diseases and pests.

Optimal timing

In the Urals, apple trees are planted in spring or fall. In the former case, the procedure is carried out after the snow melts but before the buds open. However, experienced gardeners recommend planting in the fall. The optimal time is late September to early October. Advantages autumn planting of apple trees– partial rooting of the tree before the onset of cold weather and development of the root system once the warm season arrives. However, this method has a significant drawback. If frosts arrive too early in the region, the seedling's root system may be damaged.

Site selection, soil requirements

For successful tree development, it's advisable to select a sunny site on the south side of the garden. The apple tree will thrive if it's protected from wind and drafts by nearby buildings or mature trees with a well-developed crown. If the terrain is significantly uneven, avoid planting the tree in low-lying areas. These areas can become stagnant after rain, or the groundwater table may be too low. Overwatering negatively impacts plant development, leads to fungal infections, and reduces resistance to other diseases and pests. If the groundwater table is close to the soil surface, drainage can be installed to drain excess water away from the plant's roots.

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The ideal soil for apple trees is loamy soil with low acidity. However, clayey or sandy soil will not interfere with the cultivation of this fruit tree. In any case, rapid growth, development, and abundant fruiting are achieved with sufficient mineral components: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Site preparation begins with removing weeds, fallen leaves, and other debris. Plants left over from the summer can be sources of various infections.

The selected area is dug over to the depth of a shovel. Organic fertilizers are simultaneously applied. 10 kg of compost or 3 kg of sawdust are needed per square meter. If the soil is highly acidic, it is reduced by adding lime. The application rate depends on the pH value. When the pH value is difficult to determine, approximately 3 kg of the fertilizer per square meter is incorporated into the soil. Sand is added to clay soils.

The planting hole is dug 2-3 weeks before the planned planting date. The hole should be at least 90 cm in diameter and 70-80 cm deep. After digging the hole, partially fill it with a nutrient-rich substrate. This substrate is made from a mixture of nutrient-rich soil, compost, manure, or peat. These can be combined in equal proportions. Fallen leaves can be added to the bottom. Once decomposed, plant waste will become organic fertilizer. Water the substrate generously, and leave the hole until the apple tree is planted.

Selection of planting material

The determining criterion when selecting a seedling is the variety's ability to withstand the region's cold winters. Specially zoned crops or frost-resistant varieties are selected for planting. Furthermore, several rules should be followed when choosing planting material:

1. Buy seedlings only from trusted gardening associations or nurseries.
2. Use only one- or two-year-old planting material. The first has no branches, while the second has already developed 2-3 lateral shoots. Such young trees transplant more easily and establish themselves more quickly.
3. Carefully inspect the root system. It should have shoots about 30 cm long and be healthy, without thickening or unevenness. A thin root can be trimmed with a knife. A gray tint at the site of damage indicates frost damage or the beginning of rot.
4. Monitor the condition of the trunk. No cracks or growths should be allowed to form on the trunk.

How to plant in autumn

The seedling is placed in a pre-prepared hole with a nutrient-rich substrate at the bottom. Upon delivery to the site, the tree is not immediately removed from its protective "cocoon." It is allowed to acclimate for 2-3 days, after removing all moisture-consuming leaves and branches. Seedling preparation begins several days before planting. They are removed from the plastic wrap and freed from the damp burlap. Damaged root ends are trimmed back to healthy tissue. Care is taken to ensure the cuts are light and juicy.

Planting should be done in a specific sequence:

1. In the center of the hole, a depression is made in the substrate, the size of which corresponds to the volume of the root system.
2. A peg is driven into the hole, which is necessary to support the apple tree trunk.
3. The roots of the seedling are straightened so that they do not form knots or tangles.
4. The tree is lowered into the hole and covered with fertile soil. The soil is compacted periodically to remove any air pockets. The root collar is left 2-3 cm above the ground.
5. The trunk is tied to a support, and the soil around it is watered generously. If the soil settles after watering, add a little more water.
6. The tree trunk circle is loosened to reduce the rate of water evaporation and mulched with tree bark or sawdust.

Secrets of care

To grow a strong, properly formed apple tree, it's not enough to simply follow all the planting instructions. During growth, especially in the first few years, the fruit tree requires systematic care. A comprehensive approach to promoting growth and increasing yield is more important in the cold climate of the Urals than in southern latitudes. Apple trees should be regularly watered, fertilized, and pruned for formative and sanitary purposes.

Watering

Moisturizing is the most important step in maintaining a plant's health. Experienced gardeners recommend following a few rules to achieve maximum results:

1. Water only with warm water. Cold water negatively affects the root system, causing deformation and curvature of the shoots.
2. Young trees are watered twice a week. Mature trees are watered only in the summer, with two buckets of water poured under each tree.
3. After watering, loosen the soil. This is necessary to improve oxygen supply to the roots and reduce water evaporation.
4. The tree trunk circle is mulched.

Fertilization

The first feeding is done the following year after planting. Fertilizers are applied in the spring or fall. If the summer is forecast to be hot, a single application of nitrogen-containing substances is acceptable. Before flowering, fertilize with azophoska. The next feeding is done before harvest. At this time, it is appropriate to add organic matter along with mineral supplements. Potassium fertilizers or complex fertilizers have a beneficial effect on future yields.

Trimming

Experienced gardeners perform crown shaping and rejuvenation themselves. Beginners or amateurs should initially learn from agronomists or better understand the nuances of the procedure. Incorrect pruning can cause disease or death of the tree. Gardeners must have the right tools and understand the tree's structure, cutting rules, and methods for protecting cuts. There are four main types of pruning: formative, sanitary, maintenance, and rejuvenating.

To maximize yield, apple trees are pruned, leaving only the strongest and most robust branches. Formative pruning is used to ensure proper tree development. This is done for the first time the year after planting or in a nursery (if the seedling is over two years old). The procedure is then repeated each spring when the outside temperature reaches a stable above-zero level. Mature seedlings undergo formative and sanitary pruning. The latter is necessary to remove dead, diseased, or damaged shoots.

Carrying out vaccinations

The procedure is performed in late July or early August. Seedlings are grafted from early varieties to late varieties. Due to its simplicity, the bark budding method has become popular. All leaves are removed from the scion, leaving only the petioles. The scion is then inserted into a T-shaped cut made in the rootstock. The junction is wrapped with plastic film or tape. To improve the seal and prevent moisture evaporation, the grafting site is additionally treated with garden pitch.

Shelter for the winter

Even frost-hardy varieties won't survive the first winter after planting if they're not prepared for the cold. To protect a young apple tree, follow these steps:

1. A seedling planted in autumn is not pruned.
2. The plant is provided with abundant watering until the first frost.
3. The apple tree trunk is coated with chalk or whitewash. This procedure is necessary to protect against insect damage and is carried out several weeks after planting.
4. The trunk is insulated with burlap or other material. At the same time, rodent protection can be provided. The area around the trunk is covered with spruce branches to protect the roots from freezing.
5. The shoots are covered with plastic film. This will protect the plant from damage from strong sunlight. The covering material is removed after the first leaves appear.

Protection from diseases and pests

Growing an apple tree and achieving a bountiful, high-quality harvest requires controlling harmful insects and diseases. To reduce the risk of pathogenic organisms, regular preventative treatments are essential. Both the plant itself and the soil beneath the crown should be sprayed. Tank mixes of insecticides and fungicides are used for treatments. The optimal time is early April, when the buds have not yet swollen. Preventative measures are also advisable after the end of the growing season, when the tree has shed its leaves and entered a period of stagnation.

A common pest in the Urals is the codling moth. If not eradicated promptly, its larvae can destroy the future harvest as early as the fruit set stage. Bordeaux mixture is used as a preventative measure. The plant is treated with it once a month. Those who oppose the use of chemicals can implement preventative measures by removing fallen leaves and digging up the tree trunk. Apple trees are susceptible to scab. A solution of copper sulfate or an infusion of onion peels helps combat the disease. Spray the plant against scab once every two weeks.

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Growing a healthy and productive fruit tree in your garden is easy. The key is to plant the right variety, taking into account the region's agroclimatic conditions, and follow the proper cultivation guidelines.