Late blight is considered a very dangerous disease affecting various tomato varieties. Even the most resilient fruits are susceptible. The connection occurs when the atmosphere is humid, which triggers the appearance of brown spots. Gardeners have also noticed that tomatoes are affected by sudden temperature changes.
An interesting fact has recently been discovered: fungi can infect soil and seeds. Therefore, it is essential to treat seeds before planting. This will help eradicate soil diseases. Now you understand why tomatoes, both blight-resistant and greenhouse-grown, are of great interest to all gardeners.
Tomato varieties suitable for greenhouses and resistant to late blight vary, depending on the location and conditions. Greenhouse tomatoes are common during short, cold summers. But few people know that hybrid varieties are the best choice.
Characteristic features
Excellent tomato varieties and those resistant to late blight for the Moscow region will be described at the end of the article. Now is the time to understand what late blight is. Tomatoes are most often susceptible to this type of disease, which is caused by fungi.
Rot first appears, affecting the leaves, then the fruit itself. This disease is easily recognized by the dark spots that spread throughout the bush within 2-3 days. Gardeners usually notice the lesions on their tomatoes towards the end of the summer season. If the weather is damp, the spots can appear much earlier.
Important! Tomatoes that are resistant to late blight include early-ripening and hybrid varieties that ripen before the disease begins to appear.
What causes late blight?
Dark spots appear on greenhouse-grown tomatoes when there's not enough air. This becomes the primary, and perhaps the most important, reason to remove side shoots. Rain and cold create optimal conditions for the disease to develop. Seeds for open ground should be carefully selected, as tomatoes in such conditions are more susceptible to damage than those grown in greenhouses.
Important! Remember that the fungus is brought in from potato beds, therefore these two crops should not be located next to each other.
Dark spots appear:
• due to the abundant application of nitrogen fertilizers;
• due to dense planting;
• due to lack of manganese or potassium in the soil;
• due to weed growth.
Hot weather can help stop the epidemic. As we've already mentioned, the disease can be easily recognized by dark spots. But there are other signs that indicate the development of late blight. For example, if the disease has struck the plant early, you'll notice the inflorescences drying up day by day. Unfortunately, the disease progresses very quickly, so action must be taken as soon as possible. It's also worth treat a greenhouse against late blight before planting.
Symptoms
Late blight is easy to recognize. The disease can affect the entire bush or just part of it.
1. Green spots with a grayish tint may be noticeable on the tips or edges of the leaves. If the moisture doesn't drain, the undersides will become covered with a gray, mold-like coating. The leaves will darken and die as the days go by.
2. You may also notice the stems turning brown. Day by day, you watch your plant die.
3. Brown spots appear on the fruit, which harden. The fruit separates from the stalk and falls to the ground.
Keep an eye out for these signs. If you notice even one, your plant is sick!
What kind of variety is it, late blight-resistant?
There are various tomato varieties resistant to late blight. You'll find their descriptions below. Early-ripening varieties are generally recommended. They are particularly resistant. The longer the bushes develop, the more fruits fail to ripen, and those that do spoil.
Selecting the best fruits that are resistant to late blight often requires trial and error. Many gardeners take a desperate step and plant only early-ripening hybrids, hoping to harvest before the outbreak. We'll now show you the tomato varieties resistant to late blight.
Tomatoes that are not affected by late blight:
1. First of all, this is the early-ripening "Gnome" variety. It is recommended for planting in open ground.
2. The following variety, ‘Alpatyeva’, is also suitable for planting in open ground.
3. Not quite an early variety, but still considered one, is the "Budenovka" variety. These tomatoes can be grown both in greenhouses and in the open ground.
4. Not early ripening, but resistant to disease, include tomato variety "De Barao"It can be planted in open ground and in greenhouses.
5. The early-ripening "Zhavoronok" variety is also resistant to late blight. It produces delicious and sweet fruits.
6. The next high-yielding and early variety is "Dubrava." This plant is grown outdoors.
7. "La-la-fa" grows well in open ground and greenhouses. These tomatoes are considered hybrid varieties.
8. "Soyuz" is suitable for all types of use. It is an early-ripening variety.
9. There are two more very resistant varieties – "Peter" and "Metelitsa." They are grown in greenhouses and in open ground.
Now you know which tomato varieties are resistant to late blight. While no one is completely immune, and it's not 100% guaranteed, hybrids are far more resistant than other fruits. It's time to take a closer look at each of the listed varieties and their key characteristics.
Table No. 1
| Plants whose bushes reach small sizes | |
| Name | Characteristic |
| Oak grove | These tomatoes are low-growing varieties (reaching a height of up to 60 cm); fruit sets in just 2.5 months; the tomatoes are red and sweet; a distinctive mark is a greenish spot near the stalk. |
| Resonance | It's worth noting that the plant's growth continues throughout its development; harvesting begins just three months after germination; the plant reaches 120 cm in height; the fruits of this variety are round and scarlet in color; the plant thrives during periods of severe drought and tolerates transportation well. |
| Dwarf | This variety is considered versatile; the plant begins bearing fruit in just 3 months; the bushes reach a height of up to 45 cm; each fruit weighs up to 60 grams; up to 3 kilograms can be harvested from a single bush at a time. |
| Orange miracle | Tall bushes; harvestable in just 2.5 months; large, flat fruits; orange tomatoes, indicating a high carotene content; fruit weights up to 400 grams; this variety tolerates heat well. |
| Perseus | An early-ripening variety; the height of a single bush can reach 70 cm; the harvest begins in just 4 months; each fruit weighs up to 120 grams; this variety tolerates transportation well, meaning it can be stored for a long time. |
Table No. 2
| Varieties intended for greenhouses | |
| Name | Characteristic |
| Tatiana | This plant requires support; harvesting is possible as early as 3.5 months after germination; the bushes are upright and heavily branched; the bush can reach a height of up to 60 cm; the tomatoes are good, fleshy, and flattened; the color is red; if the tomato is unripe, it will be dark green; one fruit weighs up to 120 grams. |
| De Barao (black) | A tall plant; bushes reach 2 meters in height; harvest begins in just 3 months; tomatoes are dark cherry-colored; each fruit weighs 80 grams; up to 5 kilograms can be harvested from one bush. |
| Cardinal | This variety is a favorite among many gardeners; the bushes reach 2 meters in height; the fruits are bright crimson; the tomatoes are heart-shaped; they can weigh 500 grams or more; the plant requires regular watering and fertilizing. |
Which varieties to choose?
Most gardeners prefer hybrid Dutch varieties. They believe these plants are more resistant to late blight. However, domestic varieties are also attractive, as they offer the opportunity to choose the right one for your needs. After all, domestic plants are adapted to local conditions.
If you're interested in the Moscow region, cold-hardy and early-ripening varieties are considered successful. Many advise against growing tomatoes in greenhouses, as the bushes thrive in a well-ventilated area. Dwarf tomatoes are also very popular. This interest stems from the fact that these bushes are the easiest to protect from sudden frosts.
There is a whole list of varieties resistant to late blight:
• Dwarf;
• Far North;
• Alaska;
• Snowdrop;
• Bullfinch;
• Wind rose;
• Snow fairy tale;
• Taimyr.
Even the names suggest that all these varieties were bred for germination in cool climates. All of these varieties are excellent for transportation, meaning they will keep for a long time.
Late blight is a sore point for gardeners. After all, they invest a tremendous amount of effort planting and caring for tomatoes. And when, by midsummer, they lose their hard-earned harvest, they're deeply upset. The following year, they begin to consider which varieties are best to plant and in what conditions to grow them, so as not to be disappointed later. To this end, gardeners make sure to treat their plants to prevent dark spots. This helps prevent the spread of the disease.
The newest varieties of tomatoes
Sixty new varieties and 17 hybrids were tested. The newcomers yielded excellent yields and delicious fruit. We'll now list the most outstanding varieties, which are worth choosing with confidence.
1. Among the hybrids, the best performers were: 'Silhouette' (6.5 kilograms per bush) and 'Minaret' (6.5 kilograms per bush), 'Malvasia' (5.7 kilograms), 'Berberana' (4.8 kilograms), and 'Bugay' (4.1 kilograms), as well as 'Palenka' (4.1 kilograms) and 'Gualdino' (4 kilograms). All other bushes yielded less than 4 kilograms of tomatoes.
2. The "Bugai" variety was noted for the weight of its fruit. A single bunch could weigh up to 2 kilograms. The bushes themselves reached 2 meters in height. The "Adjen" variety produced fruit up to 500 grams, while the "Berberana" hybrid produced fruit up to 650 grams.
3. Two varieties, 'Melman' and 'Geronimo,' had impressive taste. 'Dimerosa' and 'Pink Claire' also produced delicious pink fruits.
4. Among the black-fruited varieties, the following stand out: "Vorlon," "Brad's Black Heart," and "Wine Jug." Among this group, the "Evans Purple Pear" stands out as the highest-yielding.
5. Among domestic varieties, "Samiye Luchshiye" and "Chudo Sada" stand out. The fruits are quite large, and the flavor is simply incredible.
6. The beauty of the 'Casaddie Madness' variety's fruits is undeniable. These banana-shaped tomatoes can yield up to 5 kilograms of fruit per bush.
Tomatoes are most often susceptible to late blight. To protect your plants, preventative measures are essential. The most important thing is to choose the right seeds. While there are no varieties that are 100% resistant, there are plants with high resistance to this disease. We've already listed them above.
Important! Before buying seeds, read the instructions on the packaging. The variety description should say "breast blight resistant." If you find this phrase, you can safely buy the seeds. Of course, this doesn't always protect the plant from disease. It's best to read reviews from experienced gardeners who have grown different varieties and can share their experiences.
You can find various forums online where gardeners share advice. Based on numerous reviews from amateur gardeners, we've identified the most resilient tomato varieties.
These include:
• The Little Prince;
• Oak tree;
• Grotto;
• White filling;
• Lights of Moscow;
• Berry;
• Orange Heart.
Among the tall varieties are:
• Orange miracle;
• Lark;
• Karotinka;
• Academician Sakharov;
• Tsar Peter.
Tip! For winter preserves, it's best to choose varieties with firm fruit. Large, non-fleshy tomatoes are best for making tomato juice, and pink and yellow tomatoes are best for salads.
As you may have noticed, there are a huge number of different tomato varieties. When choosing seeds, pay special attention to the region where the plant is intended for cultivation.
How to prevent the development of late blight?
You can take steps to prevent disease in your tomato plants before planting. Before sowing, treat the seeds with a 1% potassium permanganate solution. Then, when transplanting the seeds outdoors, treat the roots with Baktofit. You'll learn how to apply the treatment as you go (you can read the instructions on the package).
Many gardeners also use fungicides to protect plants. They switch to this treatment when the air temperature drops to 10 degrees Celsius (50 degrees Fahrenheit), which usually occurs in late July. This treatment should be repeated weekly.
Advice! There's a very effective remedy for late blight: Bordeaux mixture. Spray tomatoes with a 1% solution every two weeks before they turn brown. Stop spraying 10 days before harvest.
Some people prefer to use copper oxychloride. It must be diluted properly (40 grams per bucket of water). One liter of solution is needed for 10 square meters. The treatment should be completed 20 days before harvest.
Many gardeners prefer to combat plant diseases with folk remedies. Based on experience, mustard, iodine, and milk are considered the best folk remedies. Sometimes, it's necessary to wrap the roots of seedlings with copper wire. Greenhouse tomatoes require low humidity, so watering should be done specifically (at the roots).
Attention! There's a very interesting way to water a plant at the roots. Take a plastic bottle and poke small holes around its circumference. When planting, add a few drops of water to the bottle. The water will gradually seep into the soil. When the bottle is empty, you can refill it through the spout, which will be visible on the surface.
Tomatoes also benefit from being planted near mustard and basil. Moreover, it's best to plant the aromatic herbs as seedlings. Once the mustard blooms, it should be pruned, which will help it bloom throughout the season. Bacteria will rob the fungal spores of their iron, preventing them from waking up. Few people know this, but basil imparts an additional, delightful flavor to tomatoes and repels worms.
Preventive measures
1. You need to take care of the plant's health from the very beginning. You can protect the seeds yourself from soil fungi and pathogens. To do this, soak the seeds in a manganese solution before planting.
2. You can also try spraying the plant with a garlic solution. This treatment is done when the plant is developing. Take a bucket of water and dilute one cup of crushed garlic in it. Mix everything thoroughly. Let the solution sit for a while. You can spray with this solution several times a season.
3. You can prepare a slightly different solution. Dissolve 100 grams of fresh yeast in a bucket of water. Spray the tomatoes with the prepared solution.
4. Iodine treatment is very popular. It's very easy to prepare. Dissolve 40 drops of iodine solution in a bucket of water. Mix thoroughly. Apply during the growing season.
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Whatever variety you choose for planting, remember that the most important thing is the measures you take to preserve the fruit. There is no plant that is 100% resistant to late blight, but there are varieties that are extremely rarely affected. Choose the best varieties, try them out, plant them—you might get lucky. After all, everything comes with experience! Good luck!

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