Growing orchids in a closed system is an unusual technique, popular due to its simplicity and effectiveness. This method has its own characteristics, advantages, and disadvantages. It's often criticized by conservative gardeners. However, if this method were harmful to orchids, it wouldn't have received so many positive reviews from those who decided to use it. For an epiphytic plant to thrive in a pot without drainage holes, planting and care must be done according to all the rules.
The principle of a closed system
In the wild, epiphytes have exposed roots. Therefore, orchids are traditionally planted in pots with holes to allow excess water to drain. Sudden fluctuations in temperature and humidity can cause stress, which can lead to stunted growth. A closed system maintains these critical environmental parameters. The principle is to plant the plant in a container without holes, adding a small amount of water.
Orchids planted in an insulated container grow roots toward the nutrient source, i.e., downward. Only the bottom is filled with liquid. Consistent moisture promotes the development of a strong root system and the vigorous growth of leaves and flower stalks. A layer of moss placed on top of the container prevents moisture evaporation. Even exposed root areas do not dry out. Despite the lack of drainage holes in the bottom, the liquid does not stagnate, and the roots do not rot.
Orchid cultivation in a closed system
Growing epiphytes in a closed system is often used as a temporary measure to revive weakened or damaged specimens. In greenhouse conditions, the lost root system quickly recovers. However, if proper cultivation practices are followed, phalaenopsis can be successfully grown in a closed system for many years.
Landing features
A closed system for epiphytes is a pot without a single drainage hole. It should be transparent and made of glass or plastic. The walls of such a container allow for easy monitoring of the water level and the condition of its contents. Only the root system is placed inside the pot. The upper part, consisting of the rosette with leaves and a flower stalk, is placed outside the container.
Before planting an orchid in a closed system, you need to prepare the following attributes:
- transparent container;
- expanded clay;
- bark;
- irrigation water at room temperature;
- sphagnum moss.
How to choose a pot
Experienced gardeners prefer glass pots for closed systems. They are more stable and decorative than plastic ones. Furthermore, the glass surface is non-porous, preventing root ingrowth. Plastic pots are also advantageous because they can be easily pierced if a new growing method proves unsuccessful. Simply pierce the bottom in several places with a sharp, hot pin. Plastic pots are also lightweight and unbreakable, meaning they last longer.
Orchids can be planted in containers of different shapes.However, it's difficult to extract fragile roots from a round container without damaging them. If repotting is necessary, such a container will have to be broken. Transparent pots, beautiful glasses, or goblets are suitable for Phalaenopsis cuttings or plants with small roots. Large orchids require larger containers: multi-liter flowerpots or small aquariums. Several flowers can be grown in these containers at once. However, do not plant them all at once. A closed system should be tested on a single plant.
It's best to choose a container with a smooth interior and edges that flare out toward the top. Planting a flower in a container with two handles will make it easier to move. A pot with a tapered top retains moisture longer. This type of container is only suitable for growing plants in warm rooms. Low temperatures and overly moist soil can lead to fungal infections.
Substrate components
When planting phalaenopsis in an isolated container, the soil components are not mixed, but laid out in layers in the form of a “sandwich”. To prepare the substrate You will need the following components:
- expanded clay;
- charcoal;
- peat moss;
- pine bark (chip size – 1-3 cm).
The substrate components have antimicrobial properties. Their layered arrangement creates a natural filter. Components for a closed system can be purchased at a flower shop or collected in the forest. Pine bark is recommended. The pieces should not be too small. Otherwise, air circulation will be disrupted, which will negatively impact the root system. Mold should not be present on the collected material. Pine cones can be used as a substitute for bark. It's best to collect live moss. Its green stems will resume growth later.
It's recommended to disinfect purchased components for a closed system, as high humidity encourages fungal growth. To eliminate potential parasites and infections, place the moss and bark in the freezer for 2 days. Oven baking is not possible, as this material is highly flammable. The forest substrate does not need to be cleaned or disinfected. It can be added to the flowerpot without any preparation.
Step-by-step instructions for planting an orchid
When planting an orchid in a container without holes, follow this sequence:
- The container and expanded clay are disinfected by pouring boiling water over them.
- The bottom is lined with a drainage layer of expanded clay. Its height should be equal to 1/4 of the pot's volume.
- A layer of moss 0.5-1 cm thick is placed on the drainage.
- The remaining space is filled with crushed bark, to which a little charcoal is added.
- Pour warm water into the pot. Allow the substrate to soak for at least 30 minutes to fully absorb the moisture.
- Excess liquid is drained, leaving it only on the expanded clay.
- The flower is planted directly into the bark. The roots are spread out so they don't bend, overlap, or come into contact with the drainage system. The root collar should be slightly above the pot. It shouldn't be buried deeper.
- Sphagnum moss is thoroughly soaked in water, squeezed out, and spread in a thin layer over the entire surface of the bark. This will act as mulch, reducing moisture evaporation from the container. Leave some space between the root collar and the sphagnum moss to prevent rot.
Caring for Phalaenopsis in a Closed System
Once the repotting is complete, the pot containing the plant is moved to its permanent location. To ensure a healthy orchid, optimal temperature and humidity parameters must be maintained. Daylight hours should be at least 16 hours. Tropical plants do not like direct sunlight, as they naturally inhabit the lower canopy of forests.
When choosing a location for your orchid, keep in mind that it doesn't tolerate heat or cold well. The optimal growing temperature for phalaenopsis is 22 to 27°C. Temperatures below 18°C are undesirable. During growth, the orchid only requires regular watering and fertilizing. Avoid misting it with a spray bottle or showering it. Such treatments are useless for orchids in a closed system.
You may be interested in:How to properly water phalaenopsis
Don't water the orchid for the first few days after planting. Drops of condensation on the inside of the container indicate sufficient moisture. A light pot, no condensation, and a change in the root color from green to grayish indicate the orchid needs watering. In summer, add water more frequently—2-3 times a week. The water temperature should not be lower than room temperature.
Watering orchids in a closed system is carried out in two ways:
- Submerge the substrate in water. Pour enough liquid to cover all layers. The bark will be saturated with moisture within 15 minutes. Then carefully drain the liquid, tilting the pot and holding the mulch layer in place with your palm. In winter, reduce the time needed to saturate the bark to a few minutes.
- The second method involves regularly adding settled water. Pour the liquid in a thin stream until it completely covers the expanded clay mound. This amount of water must be maintained constantly. The expanded clay must not dry out, otherwise the roots will begin to wilt and dry out. If the liquid rises above the drainage layer, the orchid is at risk of rot.
Features of feeding
To ensure vigorous growth and lush blooms, the orchid requires fertilizers specifically formulated for epiphytes. These fertilizers include mineral mixtures containing all the necessary nutrients. Fertilizers are added once the plant has established itself and formed a new pair of leaves. Watering with a nutrient solution alternates with regular water.
Orchids in a closed system are fertilized infrequently and in small doses, as all nutrients remain in the pot and are fully absorbed by the roots. The recommended dosage should be reduced by 10 times. The diluted fertilizer can be sprayed onto the leaves and upper roots. Fertilizers should contain the following ingredients:
|
Microelements |
Macronutrients |
|
Magnesium |
Phosphorus |
|
Bor |
Nitrogen |
|
Succinic acid |
Potassium |
|
Manganese |
|
|
Vitamins that boost immunity |
During the growing season, there is no need to fertilize orchids under the following circumstances:
- summer heat;
- flowering period;
- during illness or weakness.
The following signs indicate that an orchid needs feeding:
- new leaves grow small;
- the appearance of red stripes on the lower part of the leaf blade;
- paleness and wilting of foliage at the base of the rosette.
Possible problems
If proper agricultural practices are followed, no difficulties should arise. However, gardeners often encounter the following problems:
- If you use a container that is too deep, the flower will simply dry out, since the root system is located far from moisture.
- Mold will appear inside the container. This is nothing to worry about during the adaptation period. In 90% of cases, the mold will disappear on its own without any consequences once the orchid has established itself.
- Using excessively fine bark particles can cause root rot. Wet bark compacts and prevents air from passing through. The substrate should consist of sufficiently coarse components.
- If you water the flower too often, and even with cold water, root rot cannot be avoided.
- A damp environment attracts insect pests. They can be controlled with specialized insecticides or garlic water. Whiteflies will disappear if you reduce watering and allow the substrate to dry out.
- A green coating gradually appears on the walls of the pot. It's unsightly, but there's no way to prevent it.
Advantages and disadvantages of a closed system
Growing orchids in a closed system has its pros and cons. Florists note the following advantages:
- Time savings. A flower growing in a closed system requires significantly less maintenance.
- Plants develop better: they intensively grow leaves and roots.
- High-quality flowering. The reason is increased humidity. Longer and more lush flowering is observed. Large buds are formed.
- The antibacterial properties of sphagnum moss. The moss contained in the substrate protects the roots from pathogenic microbes.
- Restoring dying flowers. Even orchids that have lost leaves and roots quickly regain their former appearance.
- Growing phalaenopsis in an isolated pot is considered optimal for dry climates. The flowers have sufficient moisture within their pots, so there's no need to seek it from the outside.
Growing orchids in a closed system has the following disadvantages:
- it takes more time to plant a flower;
- moldiness of plantings;
- dying off of lower foliage;
- formation of green plaque inside the pot;
- high risk of root rot;
- the appearance of harmful insects;
- The method is not suitable for humid climates.
Orchid adaptation
The adaptation time for an orchid planted in a closed system depends on the condition of its roots. The more developed they are, the faster the plant will adapt to the new environment. If the repotting is carried out correctly, the orchid will easily adapt. Sometimes the plant will lose lower leaves or drop buds, which is also considered normal. If you had to trim off many damaged roots, the phalaenopsis will have a difficult time repotting.
To avoid problems with your flower adapting to its environment, follow these simple rules:
- The plant is transplanted only during the growth phase.
- It is necessary to leave some of the old substrate on the roots.
- Fertilizing should be postponed, otherwise the plant may be harmed.
You may be interested in:Failure to follow proper growing practices can lead to root loss. The main cause is rot. If such a plant is placed in a closed system, it will develop new roots. The microclimate should resemble that of a greenhouse, identical to the conditions in which the plant grows in the wild. To promote faster root growth, the room temperature should not fall below 25°C. The plant requires good lighting.
Reviews
Vlada
I planted an orchid in a closed pot when it lost its roots due to rot. The affected parts had to be completely cut off. New roots appeared only a month later, and then they quickly grew. Many leaves dried out, but healthy ones grew in their place. A year later, the plant produced a flower stalk. This method saved the orchid; otherwise, it would have been thrown out.
Diana
I use a closed system when growing Phalaenopsis offspring. They develop roots quickly in a humid environment. The offspring should be planted in small containers, otherwise the roots will dry out. This new method allows for the production of adult plants in a shorter period of time. These plants can then be grown using any method, provided they are provided with optimal conditions.
Elena
An orchid planted in a container with drainage holes didn't bloom for a long time, despite receiving sufficient light and moisture. I decided to transplant it to a closed system. It quickly established itself and delighted me with its abundant blooms. The only disappointing thing was the green coating inside the container, clearly visible through the transparent walls.
Phalaenopsis plants grow well in a closed system, quickly developing roots and leaves. Even a severely damaged plant can be saved. Thanks to optimal humidity and the antimicrobial properties of sphagnum moss, the roots are protected from rot. This method has many advantages and is simple. Simply following proper gardening practices will ensure healthy and lush plants.

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