Growing cucumbers in open ground in central Russia

Cucumbers

Growing cucumbers outdoors in central Russia is a very complex undertaking, as it depends on many factors: planting timing, variety selection, seed quality, and natural and climatic conditions. Adapted varieties tolerate low night temperatures well, are resistant to regional diseases, and bear fruit until the first frost.

How to choose seeds

Air and soil temperatures vary even within the same region, so among all the varieties recommended for planting in central Russia, it's important to choose the most suitable one. For example, the average temperature in the Central Black Earth Region is +7°C, in the Tver Region it's +9°C, and in the Volga Region it's +5°C. Therefore, the recommended varieties will differ in their heat-loving abilities.

It's best to choose commercially produced seeds that have been industrially treated against diseases. Homegrown seeds lack this phytosanitary protection.

In order for the ovary to develop into fruit, the flower must be pollinated. According to pollination methods, cucumbers are classified as:

  1. Parthenocarpic.
  2. Bee-pollinated.
  3. Do not require pollination.

Parthenocarpic varieties are also called self-pollinating. These cucumbers need to be periodically shaken by the flowers to transfer pollen from one plant to another. Traditional insect pollination involves using additional bait: spraying sugared water on the leaves or placing sweets near the cucumbers, but doing so in a way that prevents ants from reaching them. Non-pollinating varieties, intended for commercial cultivation, are most often sterile F1 hybrids.

Although some regions of warm European countries have a climate similar to central Russia, using foreign seeds is not recommended. At best, they will simply fail to germinate and produce seedlings. At worst, when transplanted into the garden, the seedlings will begin to wither and become diseased, as they are not resistant to our local diseases and are not adapted to the chemical composition of the soil.

Recommended varieties for open ground

Before purchasing seeds, you need to determine the requirements for cucumbers: ripening time, intended use (canning or raw consumption), sun requirements, and susceptibility to disease. The Federal Scientific Center for Vegetable Growing has compiled a list of the best cucumber varieties for open ground cultivation specifically for the temperate climate of the central region.

Competitor

This early-ripening variety bears fruit 50 days after planting. Sow Konkurent in late May or early June. Yields up to 4.1 kg per bush. The variety is resistant to fungal diseases and aphid moths. A few drawbacks include yellowing of the fruit, which remains on the bush for a long time.

This variety absolutely does not tolerate proximity to tomatoes. The distance between rows of these plants should be at least 15 meters. For a bountiful harvest, after flowering, cucumbers can be fed with Borodinsky bread fermented in water.

April F1

This is a self-pollinating first-generation hybrid. It bears fruit for six weeks after the first cucumber is picked. Aprelskiy is considered a highly productive hybrid and requires nitrogen supplementation when transplanting seedlings into open ground.

Interesting fact!
With proper planting and care practices, cucumbers can yield up to 50 kg per square meter. The Aprelskiy hybrid is considered a record-breaker among Russian varieties.

Collecting seeds from "April" cucumbers is useless—all hybrids are sterile, so they won't produce new seedlings. While these seeds are safe to eat, they won't produce any offspring.

Erofey

The bushes are characterized by very dense foliage, which can be easily corrected with timely care. Erofey is pollinated by bees, so the insects need to visually emphasize the flowers by removing the leaflets around them. Unlike other varieties, Erofey's leaves are not prickly and have a smooth surface.

Fruiting lasts 45-60 days. Cucumbers are suitable for both pickling and eating raw. The fruits are pimple-free and can be stored in brine at the gherkin stage—they are 5-9 cm long.

Fontanelle F1

This cross was developed by grafting two different varieties, resulting in a hybrid with aromatic flesh. The cucumbers are uniform in size and, if picked promptly, rarely overgrow. The peel is uniform in color, with rare external defects. This variety is ideal for canning in transparent jars.

Rodnichok is resistant to downy mildew, alternaria, cladosporiosis, cucumber mosaic, black stem and root rot.

Ant

An ultra-early variety. The first fruits are ready for consumption 35-40 days after planting. The fruits are large, elongated, and covered with numerous spines.

The downsides include a relatively low yield—no more than 10 kg can be harvested from 1 square meter of soil. The ant is susceptible to insect attacks, so the bushes need to be periodically treated with insecticides.

Muromsky 36

A shade-loving, early-maturing hybrid. Suitable for planting along hedges and on shady sides of the house. Easy to care for, but watering with warm water is best.

The yield per bush is up to 3 kg. The fruits are flattened at the ends and light green in color. Not suitable for canning.

Alekseich F1

An early-ripening variety with a yield of up to 15 kg per square meter. Fruiting period: 30-35 days. The fruits are oval, rough, and may have external skin defects. They weigh 50-70 g. They are resistant to root rot.

It's perfect for pickling alone; if canned with tomatoes, the cucumber flavor will be lost, and the jar may become cloudy. For best preservation, do not add garlic to the brine.

Herman F1

Self-pollinating hybrid, with a seed germination rate of up to 97%. It thrives in warmth but does not tolerate cold nights or drafts. A single bush can yield up to 2.5 kg of medium-sized fruits.

Requires mineral fertilizers and frequent loosening of the soil around the hole. Susceptible to downy mildew.

Golopristansky

This cross was bred specifically for pickling. Its crisp, firm flesh, minty aroma, and excellent shelf life have made it a popular choice among restaurants and food service establishments.

It enjoys abundant watering even when it's still a seedling. It doesn't require mineral fertilizers, but you can add humus around the holes.

Stork 639

It produces large cucumbers, weighing up to 120 g. It is resistant to all pathogenic fungi and bacteria, but its weak point is the root. Avoid overwatering the soil. A constant flow of air to the root is essential. To achieve this, some gardeners carefully insert tubes into the soil to collect juice.

Aista 639 cucumbers are versatile, suitable for eating raw or pickling with any vegetables. They thrive in the garden alongside borage, Sarepta mustard, and white mustard.

Alliance F1

A mid-season, high-yielding variety, yielding up to 18 kg of cucumbers per square meter of garden bed. The fruits are light-colored, some with depigmented skin.

Interesting fact!
Albino cucumbers—vegetables with pale yellow and white coloring—are sometimes found among the Alliance cucumbers. They are harmless and edible.

Alliance is resistant to brown and powdery mildew, requires abundant watering, and requires high levels of sunlight, so shaded areas are not suitable.

Timing of sowing and planting in the ground

Timing for planting cucumbers in open ground In the temperate zone, the timing depends on how soon the vegetables begin to bear fruit. Early varieties are planted immediately after the snow melts and as soon as frost has been prevented. Outdoor care may involve covering the plants with a covering material until the average nighttime temperature reaches a stable 16°C.

Mid- and late-season varieties are sown in pots in late April and planted in the garden in early to mid-June. The timing of planting cucumbers also depends on temperature. Late-season varieties are very sensitive to fluctuations between day and night temperatures, so planting them can be delayed until late June.

Before sowing, seeds can be soaked in water for 24 hours. Commercially grown seeds are pre-treated against infectious diseases, so they don't need to be disinfected in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, unlike home-grown seeds.

Unlike tomatoes, cucumbers don't need to be pricked out or side-sonned. It's best to transplant seedlings when they have three leaves. Two of these will have smooth edges, and one will be rough and torn. Keeping seedlings in pots for too long is also not recommended, as the plant may die due to insufficient space for the root system.

Sow seeds during the waxing moon, when it's in the zodiac signs of Aquarius, Libra, and Pisces. It's best to transplant into the ground during the full or waning moon, ignoring Capricorn and Scorpio.

Remember!
Do not handle cucumbers in any way during the waning moon. This could result in a complete loss of the harvest.

For the first three days after transplanting, the bushes are left undisturbed, only watered and shaded as needed. Dig holes 10 cm deep, and fill the bottom with a mixture of stove ash and sand. Firmly compact the soil and water with warm water.

Many cucumber varieties have been developed and adapted specifically for central Russia, from ultra-early varieties to late varieties that don't begin bearing fruit until August. To reap a bountiful harvest, it's important to sow seeds and transplant seedlings into open ground at the right time. Proper care, pest control, and high-quality seed are the keys to high cucumber productivity.

The best varieties of cucumbers for open ground
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